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05-03-2011, 02:33 AM   #31
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my apologies to one and all and to yongonu the flashes work fine when in s2 mode and trigged by the pop up. now all I need to work out is what is the best average setting to leave them on for fill flash, any suggestions? how crucial or rather how much difference does altering the zoom setting make?

05-03-2011, 03:05 AM   #32
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Something like 1/4 power (bounced), t=1/180 (1/160) f=5.6 ISO 200 should get you started. Snap a test flick, check (histogram), adjust to suit. (at 1/4 power the recycle time is almost instant )
05-03-2011, 05:22 PM   #33
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QuoteOriginally posted by Class A Quote
Please read carefully what I wrote (using an optical trigger for the slave flash(es)). It will work. Note that Jolepp writes the same.
I was referring to the first line of your post. talking about PC sync, not optical.
QuoteQuote:


Sure, but that's not a problem if you use an optical trigger. You may also connect an optical trigger to a radio trigger and thus trigger remote flashes via radio. But you need an HSS-capable flash on the camera.
Yes, that will work to an extent, but with all the limitations of an optical trigger. Last time I used an optical trigger in a sports venue, my flashes batteries were exhausted 10 times faster thanks to others' fill flash.
QuoteQuote:


The hotshoe fires independently of the presence of a P-TTL flash, as long as the shutter speed doesn't exceed the sync speed.
which is the problem tha only has a mediocre solution:
QuoteQuote:
If it does, then you have to use an HSS flash that then can trigger your flashes or radio transmitter.
05-05-2011, 04:43 AM   #34
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a dumb question.
can it be wireless triggered by build-in flash and other master flash like 540fgz?
can it be done with several at once?


Last edited by liukaitc; 05-05-2011 at 04:57 AM.
05-05-2011, 05:27 AM   #35
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The YN560 has two "slave" modes to trigger from another flash, one where it fires as soon as it detects the "master" burst (S1) and another where it tries to detect the pttl from and fire from the main burst (S2). The latter would seem to work with the K-x built-in at least.
05-05-2011, 02:40 PM   #36
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so if i have more than one yn560. all set as slave mode.
pop-up flash or any master flash can trigger them simultaneous?
If so, that would be cool..
05-05-2011, 04:14 PM   #37
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QuoteOriginally posted by liukaitc Quote
so if i have more than one yn560. all set as slave mode.
pop-up flash or any master flash can trigger them simultaneous?
If so, that would be cool..
Yes, and its even better than that. My Metz 48 and the Pentax 360 aren't rated as "master" flashes in PTTL mode, but their flash will trigger these manual flashes such as the yn560.

You could even fire a PTTL flash, master or not, on the camera in PTTL mode, which would trigger the remote flashes in manual mode, so you could do both at the same time. If the remote flashes weren't far enough away, you might have over exposure or maybe not. Just adjust and repeat - no big deal. My first yn560 should arrive tomorrow - looking forward to it

05-05-2011, 06:58 PM   #38
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QuoteOriginally posted by liukaitc Quote
so if i have more than one yn560. all set as slave mode.
pop-up flash or any master flash can trigger them simultaneous?
Yes, the YN-560 has a built in optical trigger. I've even triggered it from the flash of a compact camera.
05-05-2011, 07:17 PM   #39
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QuoteOriginally posted by pop4 Quote
Yes, the YN-560 has a built in optical trigger. I've even triggered it from the flash of a compact camera.
I'm interested to see how that came out...
05-07-2011, 09:33 PM   #40
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Hurray, my YN560 Flash arrived

The speedlights.net review i linked to at the start of this thread was very accurate.

I found the 560 to be very well built. One of the things i least liked about my Metz 48 was the small hard to read abbreviations in the LED window. There is no such window on this Yongnuo, instead there is a number of single LED lights to show status and settings.

For example, there is one row of 8 led lights that are labelled with zoom settings and one uses 2 buttons to increase or decrease zoom. Less obviously, this same row of 8 lights is used to show the power setting but there is no labelling of the lights for that purpose, you just have to remember that the first light shows 1/128, the second light indicates 1/64th, and on up to 1/1. Secondly, and most confusing is that each partial power level, e.g. 1/128th, can be adjusted in 8ths up to +1/2 ev and -3/8th ev. Generally, i don't use these minor adjustments, and one has to remember to leave them alone.

Once one has read the instructions, its pretty clear how to use this flash. Its battery door is solid, the head swivels easily which allows the optical sensor to be turned to face the controller flash on the camera. I did this and it worked very well. They also include a base that has a metal threaded nut on the bottom so that it can be installed on a camera tripod.

My onboard flash, in PTTL controller mode, was easily able to operate this Yongnuo flash in S2 manual mode. The s2 is a status led that indicates the flash will ignore any preflashes, this works well with PTTL.

The flash comes with a black plastic protective bag. I plan on buying one more of these flashes.
05-08-2011, 09:41 AM   #41
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QuoteOriginally posted by philbaum Quote
The speedlights.net review i linked to at the start of this thread was very accurate.

I found the 560 to be very well built. One of the things i least liked about my Metz 48 was the small hard to read abbreviations in the LED window. There is no such window on this Yongnuo, instead there is a number of single LED lights to show status and settings.

For example, there is one row of 8 led lights that are labelled with zoom settings and one uses 2 buttons to increase or decrease zoom. Less obviously, this same row of 8 lights is used to show the power setting but there is no labelling of the lights for that purpose, you just have to remember that the first light shows 1/128, the second light indicates 1/64th, and on up to 1/1. Secondly, and most confusing is that each partial power level, e.g. 1/128th, can be adjusted in 8ths up to +1/2 ev and -3/8th ev. Generally, i don't use these minor adjustments, and one has to remember to leave them alone.

Once one has read the instructions, its pretty clear how to use this flash. Its battery door is solid, the head swivels easily which allows the optical sensor to be turned to face the controller flash on the camera. I did this and it worked very well. They also include a base that has a metal threaded nut on the bottom so that it can be installed on a camera tripod.

My onboard flash, in PTTL controller mode, was easily able to operate this Yongnuo flash in S2 manual mode. The s2 is a status led that indicates the flash will ignore any preflashes, this works well with PTTL.

The flash comes with a black plastic protective bag. I plan on buying one more of these flashes.
Great quick review, thanks for posting your impressions. I've been considering picking up a couple more strobes for off camera and was debating 285's or the YN560. Comments from someone who's used the product carry more weight for me, so it sounds like I'll be be going with the YN560's.
05-08-2011, 03:43 PM   #42
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QuoteOriginally posted by philbaum Quote
The flash comes with a black plastic protective bag.
That's interesting as mine came with a velvetty protective bag..
05-08-2011, 04:08 PM   #43
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I purchased a YN-560 off amazon the other day for $68 (including shipping)--can't wait to try it.

I also made a DIY variable flash power device for my Vivitar 283. (I figured I might as well utilize this perfectly functional 283 I have already--that I got in a bundle for free really.) It uses two radio shack potentiometers: 100k & 10k. The 10k is for flash power settings from -4 to -8 f stops as the 100k potentiometer stacks up too close down in that range. So the 100k pot I use for the -1 to -3.5 f stop settings. I have a 3 way switch that connects to the 100k pot, 10k pot and an off setting for full flash power--infinite resistance=full power on the Vivitar 283. Cost me around $15 with tax for all the parts. (I would like to get a hold of a 2 digit 8 segment led device that displays the current resistance of the circuit, that'd be sweet.. but for now I can fine tune using a multimeter.)

I haven't decided yet if it is worth it to buy a 283 off ebay for $20-25 (including shipping) and build another variable power diy device for it at $15.. would be $40.. for that much I might as well just get another YN-560 and gain swivel and zoom. Although I can do swivel and zoom manually off camera with the vivitar.

I guess if I run into more free 283's I'll mod them but I think I'll be buying another YN-560.

EDIT: I really want a P-TTL flash for my Pentax for on camera. One that can switch between manual p-ttl and auto (for use on my older pentax film bodies). Something that isn't too big, yet powerful.

Last edited by geekette; 05-08-2011 at 04:22 PM.
05-08-2011, 10:43 PM   #44
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QuoteOriginally posted by DaveHolmes Quote
That's interesting as mine came with a velvetty protective bag..
I spoke hastily, taking another look at the bag, it does look velvetty and more than durable enough to protect the flash. wish my Metz had come with a similar one way back when.

Phil
05-09-2011, 12:07 AM   #45
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QuoteOriginally posted by geekette Quote
I purchased a YN-560 off amazon the other day for $68 (including shipping)--can't wait to try it.

I also made a DIY variable flash power device for my Vivitar 283. (I figured I might as well utilize this perfectly functional 283 I have already--that I got in a bundle for free really.) It uses two radio shack potentiometers: 100k & 10k. The 10k is for flash power settings from -4 to -8 f stops as the 100k potentiometer stacks up too close down in that range. So the 100k pot I use for the -1 to -3.5 f stop settings. I have a 3 way switch that connects to the 100k pot, 10k pot and an off setting for full flash power--infinite resistance=full power on the Vivitar 283. Cost me around $15 with tax for all the parts. (I would like to get a hold of a 2 digit 8 segment led device that displays the current resistance of the circuit, that'd be sweet.. but for now I can fine tune using a multimeter.)

I haven't decided yet if it is worth it to buy a 283 off ebay for $20-25 (including shipping) and build another variable power diy device for it at $15.. would be $40.. for that much I might as well just get another YN-560 and gain swivel and zoom. Although I can do swivel and zoom manually off camera with the vivitar.

I guess if I run into more free 283's I'll mod them but I think I'll be buying another YN-560.

EDIT: I really want a P-TTL flash for my Pentax for on camera. One that can switch between manual p-ttl and auto (for use on my older pentax film bodies). Something that isn't too big, yet powerful.
congratulations on the DIY variable power supply.

I wouldn't buy another vivitar though. For $42 off amazon, you can get a brand new YN460 II. Its got pretty much the same tested power as the 560 but only lacks the power zoom and stops at partial power level 1/64 vice 1/128 for the 560. Its smaller and lighter. Has the same S1 and S2 optical trigger devices. I'm going to make it my second manual flash.

http://speedlights.net/2010/12/10/yongnuo-yn460-ii/

best wishes,
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