[Class A]

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Unless you mod them as per the thread
(Just sayin....)

True, one can mod them, if one is so inclined.

Does the modification reduce the battery life?

[elliott]

Are you using them with a Pentax camera?

These triggers cannot sync at 1/180 with a Pentax camera without causing banding. The Cactus triggers (and others) can.

Another Yongnue 602 issue are the batteries. I just came across this very good comparison between the Cactus V4, Cactus V5, Yongnuo RF602 and Yongnuo RF603.

I stuck a rubber band around the top of the transmitter, just roll it over the button when I'm using it and it holds it at half press. I've been meaning to add a switch, but the rubber band works fine and they always sync at 1/180.

Anyone know if the 603 fixed that problem?

[adr1an]

True, one can mod them, if one is so inclined.

Does the modification reduce the battery life?

Not that I've found - I've been using 2 TX's without issue on the original batts now for at least 2000 Frames/8mnths... One as a trigger and one in the hotshoe.

I've also not had a hint of shutter curtain and shoot at 1/180 a bit (I'm loving X-Mode these days )

Anyone know if the 603 fixed that problem?

Entirely no workies with Pentax due to their new support for Canikon TTL's....

And the reason it doesn't work is its multi-vendor compatibility and the way Pentax's shoe is pinned out - which is orientation wise a match to the Nikon shoe where the 'ready' pin on Nikon (Which goes high and stays high) is the Data pin on the Pentax (Which floats all over the shop)... this causes the ready signal to be pulsed which is what the 602's use to open a carrier to ensure 1/180 timing over the 100m+ range... without the 'ready' pin (or with it flashing) it as you know causes issues above 1/160. The 'half-press' trick - which is also used to enable Auto-Focus when used as a trigger - uses the same carrier wave which is why this also fixes the 1/180 'issue'....

My solution is to just stick a capacitor across the ready pin and ground - acting as a filter to the data signal and making the unit go 'ready' on any activity on the Data pin - which as its used for TTL communication it happens to coincide with the Lightmeter - the unit goes 'ready' for as long as the Camera Body is Metering.... To do this 'at the factory' they would need to add a capacitor and a switch to choose Nikon/Pentax etc; since they've now moved on to the 603, stripped the Sync port off of the 602 and rebadged it the 600 (TX Only); I wouldn't hold my breath we'll see it sorted out for Pentax any time soon. (But they'll make the 602's for a while yet - they still make their original triggers, the PT-04/CTR-301's!)

Long story short - They work 100% for me (honest - only misfires are when I forget to turn a Remote on! ) and no hint of curtain (Cept when Remote batteries are dead/going flat) - but I have the tiny Cap's lying around and a solder station on my desk - so for some, maybe the Cactus are an 'easier' way to go if they are just as cheap...

[elliott]

My solution is to just stick a capacitor across the ready pin and ground - acting as a filter to the data signal and making the unit go 'ready' on any activity on the Data pin - which as its used for TTL communication it happens to coincide with the Lightmeter - the unit goes 'ready' for as long as the Camera Body is Metering.... To do this 'at the factory' they would need to add a capacitor and a switch to choose Nikon/Pentax etc; since they've now moved on to the 603, stripped the Sync port off of the 602 and rebadged it the 600 (TX Only); I wouldn't hold my breath we'll see it sorted out for Pentax any time soon. (But they'll make the 602's for a while yet - they still make their original triggers, the PT-04/CTR-301's!)

I just went through my stuff and found a 16V 10uF capacitor, only one I have small enough to fit in the case, should it work OK?

There are three wires coming from the board to the shoe, do you remember which one of these is the data pin?

[adr1an]

I just went through my stuff and found a 16V 10uF capacitor, only one I have small enough to fit in the case, should it work OK?

There are three wires coming from the board to the shoe, do you remember which one of these is the data pin?

From memory its the right most one when looking at the shoe contacts but from inside the case with the PCB section furthest away from you if you know what I mean... Check my pics in the thread at https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/pentax-flashes-lighting-technique/69648-r...iggers-12.html and theres some test pics on top of next page there as well... I put it across where they go onto the PCB board not at the hotshoe tho...

And yes, should be ok - I used 10uF's and I think 16V's as well....

Remember - only the Nikon TX units align with the pins correctly - this wont work on the Canon ones... (well it does - just wont help - none of the relevant pins align )

[elliott]

Remember - only the Nikon TX units align with the pins correctly - this wont work on the Canon ones... (well it does - just wont help - none of the relevant pins align )

Well, I'm not sure which one I have, how can I tell?

[adr1an]

If the TX Unit has a hotshoe that look like this pinout its a Nikon . the bottom left pin in the picture aligns to the top right pin on the pentax hotshoe when mounted.
(NOT My Pictures!)
Nikon | Flickr - Photo Sharing!

This is the Canon version - The same pin is not able to align...:
(Again - NOT my Picture!)
triggers | Flickr - Photo Sharing!

[elliott]

Bummer, I had everything ready to go, but I seem to have the Canon trigger.

I found a Nikon trigger alone on eBay, I asked for a picture of the hotshoe to be 100% sure.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280712050983

I think I can live without the sync port.

[sany]

......There were QC issues with the early ones, but the latest revision seems to be great. I'm planning to pick up another one in the near future.

I also went with Yongnuo 602 triggers, which I've had for quite a while, never had a problem with them either.

Hi Elliott, how to make sure that I am buying the revised version - do they mention in the online shops?

thanks

[Deiberson]

if you have a serious amount of money to spend, Pocket Wizards.

PW are not compatible with Pentax

[elliott]

Hi Elliott, how to make sure that I am buying the revised version - do they mention in the online shops?

thanks

One way to be sure is to buy direct from Yongnuo, but then you're waiting on shipping from China. I bought mine from Amazon (through BestDealUSA) and it was the latest, I guess they do enough business that they don't have old stock sitting around.

You could ask them to check to make sure it has the metal hotshoe, that is the biggest sign, the first version was plastic.

[sany]

okay, thanks I will ask about that.

[elliott]

From memory its the right most one when looking at the shoe contacts but from inside the case with the PCB section furthest away from you if you know what I mean... Check my pics in the thread at https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/pentax-flashes-lighting-technique/69648-r...iggers-12.html and theres some test pics on top of next page there as well... I put it across where they go onto the PCB board not at the hotshoe tho...

And yes, should be ok - I used 10uF's and I think 16V's as well....

Remember - only the Nikon TX units align with the pins correctly - this wont work on the Canon ones... (well it does - just wont help - none of the relevant pins align )

My Nikon trigger came today, I did the mod in 5 minutes and it is perfect. Thanks, that solution is much more elegant than my rubber band.

[adr1an]

My Nikon trigger came today, I did the mod in 5 minutes and it is perfect. Thanks, that solution is much more elegant than my rubber band.

Glad to hear it - and yes, I find it works well too
Its that needing to use a Soldering Iron that limits the ability to apply the Mod - but its actually 'easier' than the Rubber Band if you have the tools

[alohadave]

PW are not compatible with Pentax

Yes they are.

If you are doing simple triggering, they are compatible with all cameras.