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10-10-2011, 07:13 PM   #1
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Flash for macro photography

Hi guys,

Not sure if this question has been asked before but would really appreciate some advice. I've got a Tamron 90mm macro and figured it would be worthwhile to invest in a flash. I have heard that external flashes have advantage over ring flash due to the lighting and cost, and I saw people using twin flash systems. Sorry for the n00bish question but how does the twin flash system work? I've got a sweet offer for a AF360FGZ for $150, is that a good flash? Can I get one of that and a Metz flash as a twin flash system?

Would be good if there's any guides on how to use these flash for macro photography purposes.

Thanks

10-10-2011, 07:26 PM   #2
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QuoteOriginally posted by catastrophe Quote
Hi guys,

Not sure if this question has been asked before but would really appreciate some advice. I've got a Tamron 90mm macro and figured it would be worthwhile to invest in a flash. I have heard that external flashes have advantage over ring flash due to the lighting and cost, and I saw people using twin flash systems. Sorry for the n00bish question but how does the twin flash system work? I've got a sweet offer for a AF360FGZ for $150, is that a good flash? Can I get one of that and a Metz flash as a twin flash system?

Would be good if there's any guides on how to use these flash for macro photography purposes.

Thanks
How do you plan on holding both flashes at the same time? What you've heard of is probably the dedicated units from nikon or canon (i.e. mt24 ex) which pentax does not have an equivalent.

IMO, its not worth the effort of somehow setting up two heavy flashes in one mobile unit. Buy a metz 50 af-1 and an L bracket with one of those pttl cables. Make your own diffuser and your good to go

I'd steer away from the pentax AF 360, as the battery door is VERY cheaply made and will eventually fail you. Mine's completely taped up to hold the battery in the compartment..... very annoying and frustrating. My metz 48 on the other hand is wonderfully made and is a genuinely good flash
10-10-2011, 09:27 PM   #3
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Well but the price of the used AF360 does attract me, is swivel that important in macro? Don't really mind that much about the battery cover.
10-10-2011, 09:49 PM   #4
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QuoteOriginally posted by catastrophe Quote
Well but the price of the used AF360 does attract me, is swivel that important in macro? Don't really mind that much about the battery cover.
I paid $120 for my AF 360 and I still would rather pay the extra for the metz. The only good thing that worked out in the end is that I can wirelessly set off the pentax using my metz for a simple two flash setup for studio work. Not sure if you can do that with just two of the "basic" metz flashes but you might be able to

And yes it is, VERY much so.

Dont mind the battery door issue? Ha alright enjoy having to tape up the flash extremely tight just to use it.... and even than if you dont get it tight enough it will loosen over time and your flash will suddenly stop working halting everything your doing. Than once the batteries are dead you must repeat the process. Seriously, they are horribly cheap and terribly designed. Eventually, especially if its already used, you will most likely run into this problem.

10-10-2011, 09:58 PM   #5
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A two flash setup is great idea, as a single source of light is not incredibly versatile. You would probably want to get some light stands. I would get some less expensive flashes, such as vivitar 285hv's, and invest some low cost wireless triggers, such as cactus, which I have. There is a huge advantage to having your light source farther from the subject.
10-10-2011, 10:21 PM   #6
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QuoteOriginally posted by fuent104 Quote
A two flash setup is great idea, as a single source of light is not incredibly versatile. You would probably want to get some light stands. I would get some less expensive flashes, such as vivitar 285hv's, and invest some low cost wireless triggers, such as cactus, which I have. There is a huge advantage to having your light source farther from the subject.
Well I guess the question is, what type of macro's do you want to take?
10-10-2011, 11:03 PM   #7
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QuoteOriginally posted by yeatzee Quote
Well I guess the question is, what type of macro's do you want to take?
Bugs and flowers.

10-10-2011, 11:16 PM   #8
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QuoteOriginally posted by catastrophe Quote
Bugs and flowers.
In the field, studio work only, what?
10-10-2011, 11:37 PM   #9
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QuoteOriginally posted by yeatzee Quote
In the field, studio work only, what?
In the field.
10-10-2011, 11:59 PM   #10
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There are variety of options, but for the budget you are talking about you will need to think a bit left field.

I find it best to use manual mode on the camera and manual on the flash, so the flash needs to be stepped down by stops which can't be done on the cheapest flashes. However I have used some very cheap flashes hand used tissue and elastic bands to stop down the flash.

technique 1 - one flash on side of camera connected to hot shoe using a lead. place second flash in direction of subject at angle and it is triggered by a slave.

technique 2. get a Manfrotto 233 Flash bracket which is a long arm and place a a softbox on the flash. A small ball head on the flash helps. requires a dedicated flash lead and you get away with one flash.

technique 3 forget the hassle and get a ring flash
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10-11-2011, 12:18 AM   #11
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QuoteOriginally posted by catastrophe Quote
Well but the price of the used AF360 does attract me, is swivel that important in macro? Don't really mind that much about the battery cover.
I suggest that you listen to yeatzee:

QuoteOriginally posted by yeatzee Quote
------
IMO, its not worth the effort of somehow setting up two heavy flashes in one mobile unit. Buy a metz 50 af-1 and an L bracket with one of those pttl cables. Make your own diffuser and your good to go
--------
I use the Metz 44 AF-1 and a Nissin cable on a modified L-bracket. And YES, for creative control, swivel IS important. The following images (the ear of a small dog made of china) was taken a) with flash "head-on-from-the-side" and b) with the flash bounced from above.
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10-11-2011, 05:04 AM   #12
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QuoteOriginally posted by Bob from Aus Quote
There are variety of options, but for the budget you are talking about you will need to think a bit left field.

I find it best to use manual mode on the camera and manual on the flash, so the flash needs to be stepped down by stops which can't be done on the cheapest flashes. However I have used some very cheap flashes hand used tissue and elastic bands to stop down the flash.

technique 1 - one flash on side of camera connected to hot shoe using a lead. place second flash in direction of subject at angle and it is triggered by a slave.

technique 2. get a Manfrotto 233 Flash bracket which is a long arm and place a a softbox on the flash. A small ball head on the flash helps. requires a dedicated flash lead and you get away with one flash.

technique 3 forget the hassle and get a ring flash
I have the Manfrotto and have used technique 2 with excellent results. I really want to go to technique 3. As I've said about lenses, my worst photos are the ones I miss because the equipment was too bulky.
10-11-2011, 05:14 AM   #13
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I use a 540 for macro but my macro is about 5 cm away from the front of the lens so different to yours. Never had any door (or other construction) issues with my 360 but it does have an auto timeout that makes it unusable for my stuff as I don't use PTTL but variable power. On the 540 you can disable this but not on the Metz units I looked at. Hence the move to a 540. Portability will be important to you so try and get the rig as small/light as possible. I do all my stuff handheld rather than trapsing around with tripods or brackets.


Last edited by Nass; 10-11-2011 at 05:23 AM.
10-11-2011, 12:05 PM   #14
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QuoteOriginally posted by Nass Quote
but it [the 360] does have an auto timeout that makes it unusable for my stuff as I don't use PTTL
That's the reason I would avoid the 360. And there are much cheaper options than $150. Basically, any used flash with manual variable output (and safe trigger voltage) will work. A good choice might be the old Sunpak 333, which is light, features a head that tilts and swivels, and has manual output down to 1/16. You can even use the old Pentax AF280T, which has a manual output setting designed for close-up photography. The key is (1) to get the flash off the camera and near to the opening of the lens and (2) diffuse the light. For shooting insects, I like to keep things light and simple, so I just use a wide angle diffuser.

The following pic was taken with the Pentax AF280T with the AFW1 wide angle diffuser:

10-11-2011, 05:19 PM   #15
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Does the Metz 50 AF1 have the manual flash mode? What's the main difference to the 48 AF1 other than power? And how much extra power?

Also, the Pentax AF280, what's the difference to the 360 other than the swivel and lower power? Not too sure about the Sunpak one...the Metz 50 AF1 on BH sounds like a ok deal..
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