[kaiserz]

Hey guys, I was wondering if anyone here uses this flash? will it work with the K-r? I saw one for cheap, is it a good idea to get it? or should I just look at other flashes instead? Thanks!

[SOldBear]

Yes, it will work with the K-r, with the flash in manual and auto mode. TTL mode doesn't work because the K-r does not support TTL (none of Pentax DSLRs after the *ist series does). The best cable is 4P sync cord B (4P to hotshoe, but not the 5m long).

Please do a search on AF280T or AF200T; with 4P sync cord B, the AF400T has the same interface (somewhat "smart" auto) with Pentax DSLRs as those two models do.

The 4P sync cord C (4P to PC terminal) can also be used but then the AF400T acts as a "dumb" auto flash: you need to match the ISO and the aperture settings of the flash and of the camera. Also, if your camera does not have a PC terminal (I don't know if the K-r does), you'll need a hotshoe-PC terminal adapter.

[kaiserz]

Thanks SOldBear. correct me if i'm wrong, I read somewhere that the k-r has P-TTL. do you think it's a much better Idea to get a P-TTL flash made for the newer Pentax DSLRs, or should I just start with the AF-400? BTW the price for the AF-400t is $75 that's why it caught my eye, but it might be too good to be true.

[demp10]

I have two of them and they work great; very powerful with a lot of control. It will not work in P-TTL mode but you can use one of 3 auto apertures F4, F8 and F11 at 100 ISO. Set your camera in Av, M or X mode, set the lens to one of these apertures and you are good to go. Depending on the lens and mode, the flash will set speed and aperture in your camera automatically when it is charged. It also has full manual control with several steps.

It is rather heavy, especially with the 6 AA batteries, but the handle balances nicely with the camera. You should consider it as a studio/event flash. It is too big and heavy to walk around with it.

I personally use a Quantum Battery 2 Pack to power both of them. It makes an excellent light source if detached from the camera and triggered with a cord, optical slave or in my case with a Cactus V wireless trigger.

The price of $75 is more or less good. I bought the first one 2 years ago for $43 in BGN grade and the other for $65 with the Quantum Battery 2 (needed new cells).

If you are looking for portability then a smaller flash will be better. If you are looking for convenience, then a P-TTL flash will be better, assuming that you have A, F, FA or DA lenses.

Best of luck,

Demetri

[demp10]

I have two of them and they work great; very powerful with a lot of control. It will not work in P-TTL mode but you can use one of 3 auto apertures F4, F8 and F11 at 100 ISO. Set your camera in Av, M or X mode, set the lens to one of these apertures and you are good to go. Depending on the lens and mode, the flash will set speed and aperture in your camera automatically when it is charged. It also has full manual control with several steps.

It is rather heavy, especially with the 6 AA batteries, but the handle balances nicely with the camera. You should consider it as a studio/event flash. It is too big and heavy to walk around with it.

I personally use a Quantum Battery 2 Pack to power both of them. It makes an excellent light source if detached from the camera and triggered with a cord, optical slave or in my case with a Cactus V wireless trigger.

The price of $75 is more or less good. I bought the first one 2 years ago for $43 in BGN grade and the other for $65 with the Quantum Battery 2 (needed new cells).

If you are looking for portability then a smaller flash will be better. If you are looking for convenience, then a P-TTL flash will be better, assuming that you have A, F, FA or DA lenses.

Best of luck,

Demetri

[GeneV]

I have an AF400T as well, which I originally purchased to work with my 645 bodies. It puts out great light, and recycles quickly, especially when powered by the HV AC adapter. On a late-model DSLR, you will need to use it either as a manual flash (it has adjustable power) or using the built-in sensor in the flash, and setting the indicated f-stop on your Kr in manual or X mode. As noted earlier, it will not work in P-TTL, and you will not get any kind of through the lens metering.

[axl]

On a late-model DSLR, you will need to use it either as a manual flash (it has adjustable power) or using the built-in sensor in the flash, and setting the indicated f-stop on your Kr in manual or X mode. As noted earlier, it will not work in P-TTL, and you will not get any kind of through the lens metering.

not realy

AFxxxT series of flashes actually communicate even with modern DSLRs better than the later AFxxxFTZ series

In Sv mode the with flash on auto you can be changing the sensitivity and camera will adjust f stop automatically. In Av mode and AUTO ISO, you can change f stop and camera will adjust ISO so you'll get correct exposure. The only limit is your baseline So if Flash is on f2.8/ISO100 auto and you dial f2 you are screwed. Well, with K-5 I believe you could do f2.4 or 2.5 and the camera would still handle it (ISO80).
So in some ways these older flashes are more functional than the first AF assist series!!!

[jupeter]

Ok, After stumbling upon the Pentaxforums and joining recently, you might answer to what might be a suitable external power source for this flash(AF400T), that will justify my using it while it still works. The six-AA cell battery pack on mine now has stripped threads(plastic construction, go figure). Should I look for a TR battery holder, HV pack, or switch to Quantum 2(which I am not sure I like-looks like it mounts to bottom of handle). Not real concerned about 'with-camera' use, more as detached, remote slave activated unit. Thoughts?

Thanks, Jupeter

[demp10]

Ok, After stumbling upon the Pentaxforums and joining recently, you might answer to what might be a suitable external power source for this flash(AF400T), that will justify my using it while it still works. The six-AA cell battery pack on mine now has stripped threads(plastic construction, go figure). Should I look for a TR battery holder, HV pack, or switch to Quantum 2(which I am not sure I like-looks like it mounts to bottom of handle). Not real concerned about 'with-camera' use, more as detached, remote slave activated unit. Thoughts?

Thanks, Jupeter

I use the quantum 2 pack with both of my AF400T. It works great, can power both flashes at the same time and recycles fast. It is a fairly heavy external pack that uses a SLA battery and can be attached to the flash with a cord that you screw at the bottom of the handle instead of the 6-battery holder. You can clip the pack on your belt or use a shoulder strap. I have also the HV pack but it next to impossible to find 510V batteries so I never use it.

[SOldBear]

you might answer to what might be a suitable external power source for this flash(AF400T), that will justify my using it while it still works.

I know for sure a Quantum Battery II will work. I used mine for Sunpak 5xx series and Metz 45 series, both similar to the AF400T, taking 6 AA battery cells.

I realize the AF400T can take the Pentax TR Power Pack. But I'm not sure if it can take the TR Power Pack II (my guess is that it can). Please post a photo of the high voltage port of the AF400T so we can see if it is physically the same as the one on the current AF540FGZ.

If the AF400T can take the TR Power Pack II, go to KEH and search for "power pack." If you do that before someone else gets to it, you'll find this listing. Buy it. It's a great deal (Shhhhh, I tell you a secret: the TR Power Pack II also works with the AF540FGZ).

This thread has a bit more data.

[demp10]

I realize the AF400T can take the Pentax TR Power Pack. But I'm not sure if it can take the TR Power Pack II (my guess is that it can). Please post a photo of the high voltage port of the AF400T so we can see if it is physically the same as the one on the current AF540FGZ.

If the AF400T can take the TR Power Pack II, go to KEH and search for "power pack."

The AF400T has a different power socket for the external power source from the AF540FGZ and AF500FTZ. I am not sure though if you can use an AF400T power cord and plug it to TR Power Pack II or III. The power cord has a 5-pin DIN connector on the battery side. Given that it generates 510V any experimentation may be dangerous.

[grhazelton]

I have the AF400T and it is a wonderful flash, although heavy. My understanding is that the TR battery/power pack for it puts out the same voltages (high!) as does the TR for the newest flashes; only the connector is different. Bad show, Pentax! Somewhere I saw instructions for converting the AF400T pack to power the new flashes, but where.... I found that the AF400T eats AA cells at a frightening rate, hence my purchase of the TR.

AXL, I've got to try out your post with my AF400T and my K10! Sounds like a winner.

Love this forum!!

[jupeter]

Thanks demp10 and hazelton...giving consideration to your ideas.

[Smolk]

not realy

AFxxxT series of flashes actually communicate even with modern DSLRs better than the later AFxxxFTZ series

In Sv mode the with flash on auto you can be changing the sensitivity and camera will adjust f stop automatically. In Av mode and AUTO ISO, you can change f stop and camera will adjust ISO so you'll get correct exposure. The only limit is your baseline So if Flash is on f2.8/ISO100 auto and you dial f2 you are screwed. Well, with K-5 I believe you could do f2.4 or 2.5 and the camera would still handle it (ISO80).
So in some ways these older flashes are more functional than the first AF assist series!!!

Is that with the flash in A mode? How accurate is it?
I suppose you would still need to compensate for bouncing, which you do not need to with TTL?

[demp10]

Is that with the flash in A mode? How accurate is it?
I suppose you would still need to compensate for bouncing, which you do not need to with TTL?

A-modes on these old flashes are surprising accurate as long as the flash and camera settings match (either set manually or using the flash contacts and appropriate modes on camera).

The only difference between TTL metering and A-modes is that in TTL the metering system in the camera compensates for any filters in front of the lens and light fall off because of extension tubes or bellows. Other than that, both methods measure reflected light that reaches the camera and the flash above it. As long as the flash is on the camera and the sensor is not blocked by a lens hood or other obstructions, it will "see" what the lens sees. This includes bounce setting. If the flash is off camera though, things will change depending on the positioning. TTL or p-TTL is more accurate there.