[chromo]

I was just looking at buying a wireless remote flash trigger kit and a couple flash units for my K-5.
Looked on ebay and found a trigger to suit K20D / K200D / K10D / K100D.
I thought I'd better check with the seller that it will suit the K-5.

The answer I got back : you should buy the remote for Nikon.because the hot shoe of your camera is like the Nikon.

Now I would have thought that all Pentax dslr's would be the same.

What's the story ?

Chromo
[sigpic][/sigpic]

[mtansley]

The seller doesn't know what they are talking about. The Pentax shoe although similar in appearance to the Nikon has different connections.

Also, note that generally all the wireless flash triggers do not use the P-TTL system that Pentax has, they merely connect to the big centre contact of the hotshoe and the ground, thereby telling the flash to 'flash' without passing on any further information. It's up to you to set the flash power levels manually on each flash unit.

Virtually ALL camera brands EXCEPT Sony/Minolta use the same basic physical hotshoe design with the big main contact in the same place. The only difference is the small contacts that provide different, advanced information to each brands dedicated flashes. What this means that as long as the trigger voltage is around 10 volts (for safety, although you can get special isolators to keep things safe) , virtually EVERY flash unit would work on the Pentax camera using the basic 'Flash' contact.

You could cover up all the other contacts on the flash unit (if your units have these) with a bit of tape to avoid any contacts providing false info to the camera, just keep the big main contact free.

Hope this helps.

[kenyee]

And be aware that some of them (e.g., the RF602/603) tie into the "shutter half press" pin on Nikon.
You only get 1/125 clean sync speeds w/ those (or at least on some Pentax bodies like my K20D...

[wlachan]

Pentax shoe is actually thinner and shorter than standard shoe being used on Canon & Nikon. They will fit however. Since there is no P-TTL radio trigger, you can just purchase any and they will work. The fastest sync speed will differ though.

[chromo]

Trouble is, I don't know too much about modern flash units.

What I had in mind is to buy say a YONGNUO YN-565EX and 2 x YONGNUO YN-560.
The idea is that I would use the 565 by itself and have the camera tell it what to do automatically, when only one flash is required.
Then use 2 or 3 units via RF 602 radio remote kit for other setups.

Am I on the right track guys ?

Oh and what's the "P" in P-TTL stand for. I know TTL means transistor to transistor logic, but the "P" ?

Thanks

[Ex Finn.]

Transistor to Transistor Logic in electronics world. Through The Lens in camera world. P -TTL is Pentax pre-flash through the lens flash metering.

[Catalana]

Trouble is, I don't know too much about modern flash units.

What I had in mind is to buy say a YONGNUO YN-565EX and 2 x YONGNUO YN-560.
The idea is that I would use the 565 by itself and have the camera tell it what to do automatically, when only one flash is required.
Then use 2 or 3 units via RF 602 radio remote kit for other setups.

Am I on the right track guys ?

Oh and what's the "P" in P-TTL stand for. I know TTL means transistor to transistor logic, but the "P" ?

Thanks

If you are using a Pentax camera, the YONGNUO YN-565EX won't be of much advantage to you, as it has dedicated contacts
only for Canon, i.e., it is designed to pass TTL info from the Canon body to the flash. It is also more than twice the cost.
If you want to have a P-TTL capable flash, you'll have to get either a Pentax, Metz or other third party flash, specifically made for Pentax.

The YN560 is manual only.

[chromo]

Hmmm
Yeah I found it a little hard to find much to suit Pentax on ebay, and the price is a bit of a put-off since I spent most of my funds on the new K-5.

Maybe something from Sigma ?
I'll have to keep searching.

[Catalana]

The Metz 50 should be a decent flash unit to start off with. I have the Metz48 which is not bad. For more
involved strobist work, I use 4 YN560's. Manual gives you lots of control, and spending a couple of days
reading up on how to use guide numbers and understanding how distance to subjects affects how much
light falls on a subject is well worth it. Once you understand that part, it's easy to start playing with manual
flashes, especially since we have instant access to the results and can adjust on the fly.

I shot a wedding a couple of days ago, and the ceilings were quite high in the reception hall. I put some strobes
onto 10' light stands, and was able to bounce from the ceiling from a much closer range. That cut the distance that
the light would have to traverse, giving about an extra stop of light. Had I not understood some of the basics,
the idea/technique would have not occurred to me.

[magkelly]

You could always use an older flash with a wein safe sync to start too. It's not safe to use some of them sans one, but if you can't afford a newer one that might do you for now. That's what I have actually. So far I really can't afford a dedicated newer Pentax flash so I make do with my safe sync and several older ones that I have.

[bdery]

If you want to save some money, you can purchase Yongnuo YN-04 II triggers, they work just as well and are less expensive.

[elliott]

And be aware that some of them (e.g., the RF602/603) tie into the "shutter half press" pin on Nikon.
You only get 1/125 clean sync speeds w/ those (or at least on some Pentax bodies like my K20D...

If you add a small capacitor (I think I used a 4.7uF 10v) to that pin it will sync at 1/180 on Pentax bodies. Pentax uses that as a data line, so there is voltage there but it pulses, adding the capacitor will send a steady voltage to the transmitter.

[DaveHolmes]

I know TTL means transistor to transistor logic

In case yu missed Ex Finn's reply:

Through The Lens in camera world. P -TTL is Pentax pre-flash through the lens flash metering.

And if your plan is to use triggers fairly frequently (which is really good fun) then you don't need P-TTL anyway...

The YN560 is manual only.

This is a good thing... And as others will attest: A fine manual flash unit... 2 is a good idea...

If you want to save some money, you can purchase Yongnuo YN-04 II triggers, they work just as well and are less expensive.

I have a set... For some reason mine SUCK outside... My Cactus V4's are much better... V5's are supposed to be even better!!
The YN-04II's were £15 (I think, when I got them) The V4's £50 (with 2 recievers) and I consider them a bargain...

[chromo]

Yeah I will be using the triggers a lot. I love experimentation and this new K-5 has really got me going ..

I'm not too sure about those Yongnuo YN-04 triggers. It seems they only operate over a very short distance, like 3 meters or so. That's way way too short for me.

I already have a YN-126 to trigger the shutter, great little unit, no problem to trigger 30 or 40 meters away even with the antenna down.

In flashes, I have a Vivitar auto thyristor 2800,,, Hanimex TZ2500,,, Pentax AF160,,, Achiever 115A,,,Metz 181,,,Sunpack SP140,,,National PE170.

I know the Vivitar and the Hanimex are high voltage trigger, and the Pentax and Achiever are low. I haven't checked the others yet.
I know they're old, but it would be a shame to waste these unless I can use them as wireless slaves.

Oh and is the Pentax AF160 safe to put on my *ist-DL and K-5 ?
I notice the AF160 has an extra contact under the mount, what's that for ?

Also, what are your thoughts on this ?
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/RF602-RF-602-PENTAX-K10D-K100D-K20-3-Receivers-/160509649552?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item255f1ee290