[detritus]

hi all,

i've googled, hunted and searched all over the internet for ideas on this subject but have not had much luck finding useful info so appreciate if more experienced pentaxians can offer their views on this subject.

i've been experimenting with different lighting approaches for macro for many months now and have tried:

- pop-up flash with diffuser: too harsh, not enough power to light-up subjects when shooting with a longer macro lens

- metz 48 triggered from the hotshoe with a softbox: too heavy, uneven lighting across the whole frame (esp the bottom)

- metz 48 triggered off the hotshoe with the pop-up flash: pop-up flash contributes to exposure leading to hot-spots

- pentax AF160 ring-flash: everything to complain about a ring flash - harsh, ugly catchlight off reflective surface, flat lighting

- LED lights: not bright enough to allow lens to be stepped down

so in a nutshell, after a lot of time (and $$$) spent, none of them really gives me what i want...

my standard setup now is the AF160 ring-flash, which despite its flaws, is a relatively compact setup that allows me to do the most important thing: close-in and get the shot quickly. but i'm stifled by its limitations and feel that it gives me a very one-dimensional, clinical look.

i'm now considering a dual flash setup, to be triggered wirelessly by radio triggers. pttl is not that important to me (since pttl radio triggers don't exist anyway), but i do need a pair of reliable slave flash that gives consistent, preferably adjustable output.

i'm considering the metz 20 c-2 (or the china made clone, the CY20) but i'm wary since the metz only allows 2 power settings (while the CY20 can't regulate its output at all) and i'm concerned that this might be too much light and will over-expose even after i stop down (hence the preference towards adjustable output).

i could always tilt the flash head upwards and redirect the flash with a DIY reflector, but i just wanted to make sure that i'm on the right track since i wouldn't want to be stuck with 2 slave flashes i can't use if the setup doesn't work-out. i simply have too much photography gear stashed away and my wife is getting annoyed with the mess (and expense).

weight is not a big problem since i intend for this to be mounted on a tripod and a very sturdy ballhead and flash mount. but i do prefer smaller slave flashes that uses 2AA batteries since anything larger will be overkill and may entail more effort to diffuse the light instead.

the outcomes i hope to achieve is soft, even lighting across the whole frame so that i can consistently capture both the subject and the background.

e.g.

i want to achieve this more consistently, with softer lighting:


and avoid this, which i find too clinical:


just to add, i do PP my pix, but i want to focus more on making the subject "pop" rather than agonizing over fundamentals that should be made right through proper technique and equipment rather than PP. i can reveal the background by bumping up fills, exposure and brightness but that's not always possible and the risk is noise. i'm finicky about noise its a thing. i can't explain it.

appreciate if more experienced users can share their experiences and advise:

- whether this setup is feasible / technically sound

- whether there are other flash models that i should consider

- whether i'm on the right track at all, or if there's an easier way

this flash setup will be used on a K5 + macro lenses ranging from 90mm to 125mm. working distance ranges from 30 - 50cm.

thanks for reading

[audiobomber]

- metz 48 triggered from the hotshoe with a softbox: too heavy, uneven lighting across the whole frame (esp the bottom)

Try using the built-in wide angle diffuser on the flash, with the softbox. Or adjust the zoom manually to cover a wider angle. This should even out the light.

[demp10]

You may want to take a look at the old Pentax AF200T flashes. They are very small, have enough power for small distances, have adjustable output 1/1, 1/2, 1/4 and 1/8 plus 2 auto settings and can be found on eBay for next to nothing.

Use 2 or 3 of them with wireless triggers (e.g. Cactus V), add diffusers, modifiers and reflectors as needed and you got a mini studio. You can experiment with backgrounds both natural (with additional lighting if necessary) or use a piece of colored paper out of focus to give you the desired effect.

To get out of the clinical/scientific look you'll have to think in terms of studio settings for portrait or product photography.

[detritus]

To get out of the clinical/scientific look you'll have to think in terms of studio settings for portrait or product photography.

thanks for the suggestion u've summed up my thinking in much fewer words

[Catalana]

I don't have much experience with macro work, but dialing down the power and bring the softbox as close as possible to the subject
has worked for me. I use a brolly, which is an umbrella with a diffuser panel, so the flash points into the umbrella. I you move umbrellas or softboxes
further away from your subject, the light becomes more directional, closer will flood the whole area and wrap light all around. That's when you can
also dial the power down. It's somewhat counter intuitive.

[detritus]

I don't have much experience with macro work, but dialing down the power and bring the softbox as close as possible to the subject
has worked for me. I use a brolly, which is an umbrella with a diffuser panel, so the flash points into the umbrella. I you move umbrellas or softboxes
further away from your subject, the light becomes more directional, closer will flood the whole area and wrap light all around. That's when you can
also dial the power down. It's somewhat counter intuitive.

i agree with you and no, i know what u're talking abt its not counter intuitive at all - a light source further away is more directional and more likely to cause harsh shadows.

i probably can't use an umbrella out in the field - it'll be too cumbersome. but i can definitely relate and you've set me thinking about how i can creatively diffuse the light source

[Nuff]

If you can use tripod you can use a small westcott collapsible umbrella. Just stick it between tripod legs and get a light brolly bracket.


http://jarek.smugmug.com

[detritus]

If you can use tripod you can use a small westcott collapsible umbrella. Just stick it between tripod legs and get a light brolly bracket.

Jarek Miszkinis' Photography | SmugMug

i'm concerned that it'll get in the way when i have to operate in thick vegetation

i don't mind heavy, but i have to keep it moderately compact in case it scares away all the insects

[cali92rs]

Hand-Held Flash Macro Photography
I have used that setup and really like it. The wimberly bracket also makes for a nice handle because it is so rigid.

[Nass]

Old thread, but have a look at sunpak pf20xd