[Sargmaster]

You are shooting on M(anual) and using spot metering. These issues cause your problems. As with most SLRs, three metering methods are available on the Pentax K10D: Multi-segment, Center-Weighted, and Spot. All are accessed through the Metering mode lever below the exposure mode dial on the left side of the Pentax K10D's top panel.

In Multi-segment mode, the camera takes an exposure reading from many segments and chooses the best exposure based on brightness and contrast across much of the scene. Center-Weighted metering reads from the center of the frame, but from a fairly large area. Center-Weighted mode is automatically selected instead of Multi-segment mode, if a lens other than a DA, DA L, D FA, FA J, FA, F, or A lens is mounted, or when the lens aperture ring is set at other than "A."

Spot metering simply reads the exposure from the very center of the image, so you can pinpoint the specific area of the photograph you want properly exposed. (Spot metering is very handy when you have a subject that's backlit, or that has a very different brightness, either lighter or darker, than the background.)

Solution is simple: change to one of the programmed metering modes (P, Tv, Av, TAv) and change to multi-segment or center-weighed metering and all will be well.

Yes yes and yes... : 0 I have tried taking a picture, then turning the program mode dial to another mode, then another etc... and still got the same result... BUT you are correct, I never changed the metering methods... and this is what my thought process was/is. I thought they were where I wanted the focus taken. I thought it was if you wanted focus taken on a single subject in the middle of the frame have it set to the center.... Green would take the focus with all items in the frame. But notice I am saying focus and not light metering. You sir have hit the nail on the head. So now this is what I will do. I will step out tonight just before dark and do a test. I thank you for your reply. Oh and the only reason I was shooting in Manual mode is because that is the only way I could get any picture to show up. I would love to shoot in Tv mode to capture my action shots.

What I would love is if anyone knows of a youtube video on how to use the K10 to take great pictures... ok maybe I am stepping to far, how about good pictures. I have the camera and really have no clue what wonderful things it can do. I know, I know, some of you are saying put it on the shelf and get a throw away camera, but I really want to learn this... Thanks for all inputs

[newmikey]

Yes yes and yes... : 0 I have tried taking a picture, then turning the program mode dial to another mode, then another etc... and still got the same result...

I have stated this many times, to many people but it is valid for you too: set everything to standard and then change one, only one, parameter at a time and see how it affects your shots. When looking at the shots, take notice of what works and what not - all the time checking the exif info for shot-to-shot variances.

So now this is what I will do. I will step out tonight just before dark and do a test.

Not so sure that's going to help very much. In order to shoot in the dark, you need first to be able to predict your camera's reaction to the various settings in normal light. The images you showed would even pose some issues to an experienced shooter, even on a more advanced model camera like the K20D or even the K-5. You have to understand you are pushing the envelope of your camera with reasonably slow lenses under less than favourable lighting (most likely fluorescent by the looks of it).

What I would love is if anyone knows of a youtube video on how to use the K10 to take great pictures... ok maybe I am stepping to far, how about good pictures. I have the camera and really have no clue what wonderful things it can do. I know, I know, some of you are saying put it on the shelf and get a throw away camera, but I really want to learn this... Thanks for all inputs

Not going to suggest you put it on a shelf, the K10D is still a very respectable camera capable of beautiful results although I'm not sure it is the most capable camera for low-light, high-action shots you actually want to make.

If you"really have no clue what wonderful things it can do", you do not need a Youtube video - it'll go in one ear/eye out the other. You have a wonderful learning tool that came with your camera: it is called "The Manual" and it contains everything you need to know and then some. I suggest reading it would be a fine start - if you don't, there's really nothing else that will help you and you might indeed be better off with a "throw-away camera" as you call it. Mind you, there are many very capable cameras that are NOT DSLR's or DSLR's that are slightly easier to manage - the K10D was a semi-pro DSLR when it was released and that's the way it handles - it assumes you have indeed read the manual. If that turns out to not be the case, it can be very unforgiving as most of the cameras with similar specs are.

Good shooting!

[photoephemere]

before paying for lenses that won't resolve the way you're shooting indoor you should offer you a 1/2 journey for a photo lesson to learn how to manage a reflex, what will be your limitation and your need to succeed ...

[Sargmaster]

Well now... didn't think I would get slammed here but ok... (and not really a slam) I have read the book, I know that the more light in the picture the smaller the size of the aperture you want (larger f stop number)... I know about ISO's, I know that if you want to stop motion, you have to have a higher setting... fast cars, humming bird etc require a real fast setting which will allow less light in. I get that stuff, but just can't seem to get this right. as far as info going in one ear and out the other, that's kind of why I am here, to ask questions and learn. Why else have a forum. Not all of us can be as bright as you are. Now I guess I shouldn't say that because I really don't know you and it would be wrong of me to think one way or another. Just my 2 cents on that. But you did say a few things that I can take to heart... You said the K10D might not be the right camera for "low-light, high-action shots" then maybe I need to stop trying it.

But I do thank you for your comments... I welcome all criticism and praise the same, how else will I learn.

[Sargmaster]

before paying for lenses that won't resolve the way you're shooting indoor you should offer you a 1/2 journey for a photo lesson to learn how to manage a reflex, what will be your limitation and your need to succeed ...

I do need to find a course somewhere that provides one. I just don't want to jump into one and then find out that it is not the one I really need.

[alohadave]

Even with the ISO up to 1600, and yes lots of noise, the picture still come out dark. The shutter speed is set as low as it will go and I take LOTS of pictures. Over 1000 in the first half of the game... then I get so frustrated that I stop taking them.

Now you said that my lenses are not that fast... that is what I was thinking. I just purchased the Pentax-DA L 1:4-5.9 55-300 a few days ago and not happy with it due to the fact I can't get lower than f4.5. Do you have any lenses in mind that I could look at.

Your shutter speed will go a lot slower than 1/180 and 1/150. I'm talking about 1/4-1/15.

[Sagitta]

You're shooting with a DA* 50-135mm f/2.8 lens and firing it at f/5.6 in dark(ish) conditions. Try opening your lens up a bit wider. Don't be afraid of shooting at f/2.8 or so. You'll have a touch of fuzz going on, but you'll gain at least a few stops over what you're shooting with already. That f/2.8 setting on that lens is there for just such a situation as what you're finding yourself in. Save the tighter apertures for closeups of faces and the like - odds are unless you blow the shot up huge or pixel peep the lack of sharpness at f/2.8 with a DA* lens will be negligible

EDIT: As an example, here's a shot taken in a dark(ish) horse pulling arena. The light source was a big open set of doors to the right along with weak overhead lighting of some kind. The only differences is this one was shot at f/4 (as opposed to f/5.6) and was metered with multi-segment as opposed to spot.

It was also shot with a lens far, far inferior to yours.

---

Last edited by Sagitta; 10-14-2012 at 11:37 PM.

[newmikey]

Well now... didn't think I would get slammed here but ok... (and not really a slam) I have read the book, I know that the more light in the picture the smaller the size of the aperture you want (larger f stop number)... I know about ISO's, I know that if you want to stop motion, you have to have a higher setting... fast cars, humming bird etc require a real fast setting which will allow less light in. I get that stuff, but just can't seem to get this right. as far as info going in one ear and out the other, that's kind of why I am here, to ask questions and learn. Why else have a forum. Not all of us can be as bright as you are. Now I guess I shouldn't say that because I really don't know you and it would be wrong of me to think one way or another. Just my 2 cents on that. But you did say a few things that I can take to heart... You said the K10D might not be the right camera for "low-light, high-action shots" then maybe I need to stop trying it.

Don't go all whiny on us now, all I suggested was that you read the manual that's all. I know you know about "light, ISO's and stop motion" but translating it into camera settings seems to be the hard part here. If you don't know what all the controls are for and what effect they have, everything you know about "light, ISO's and stop motion" will remain as useless as it was to you up to this point, causing you to shoot in manual mode with spot metering.

You didn't get slammed at all, you got the riot act read to you. Learn how to control your equipment! You'd not complain if we're talking about a car or a microwave so why the show about a camera? You've been at this since 2009 seeing your old posts on this forum so what gives? RTFM!

As to your "2 cents", I'll leave that for now but let's just say I wish you good luck with such an approach on a forum.

[tuggie76]

No-one seems to have mentioned looking at the histogram, take a shot and check that the histogram covers the whole screen, if it doesn't, decrease shutter speed or increase the apperture to compensate, if the shutter speed is too slow, increase the iso. Do this at the start and it shouldn't vary too much unless the light changes.

Tuggie76

[BrianR]

Well now... didn't think I would get slammed here but ok... (and not really a slam) I have read the book, I know that the more light in the picture the smaller the size of the aperture you want (larger f stop number)... I know about ISO's, I know that if you want to stop motion, you have to have a higher setting... fast cars, humming bird etc require a real fast setting which will allow less light in....

You're trying to stop action in a dark place. From the look of your venues and your equipment you won't have much leeway to get a fast enough shutter, so I'd set your ISO and aperture to allow the fastest shutter speed possible:

Higher ISO means more sensitivity means faster shutter---> set ISO to 1600 (max for your k10d, this means more noise but this is better than too dark or too blurry)
Lower f/stop means wider opening means more light means faster shutter---> Use your 50-135 and set the aperture to 2.8 (this means smaller depth of field, so your focus had better be where you want it)

Do the above using Av mode, manual ISO, and multi-segment metering (generally the most foolproof). Let the Shutter speed fall where it may. From the look of your venues it will still be border line and you'll still need to use some of the techniques mentioned- aim for the peak of the action (i.e. when the volleyball player is at the highest part of their jump) or in between plays.

In any dark place where I want a fast shutter and can't use a flash, max ISO and min f/stop are always my starting points. If this allows a shutter speed faster than I need, then I relax the ISO and/or f/stop as the light allows. I do generally shoot manual mode, but I suggest you use Av and the settings above as this will maximize your shutter speed (which will likely be barely sufficient) and ensure a proper exposure (or close to it) without you worrying about much fiddling for the time being.