Hi Dave,
Ponosby link gave a really good explanation on some of the questions you have here. Take a look.
Also, I will try and answer as well.
First: Lots of hotspots and dark shadows on the subject.
Answer: The first question I have for you is whether the hotspots and dark shadows is necessary for what you envisioned in your picture.
If not, then I would do my best to remove the difference before I take the shot.
How do I do this? I bring one of these :
http://www.camerastuff.co.za/shop/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/650x65...r_5-in-1_3.jpg and an assistant to hold it.
If you intend to create a dramatic picture - with light and dark areas, then the correct way is to meter the ratio of light you want on each areas, make sure that the lights on each areas do not spill to the next area, and use flags. These really are for studio shots, and you will spend some time figuring out your lights before the shoot. Light is additive, and if you dont flag your lights, or use snoots, or barndoors, you wont get the effect you want.
Second :
Will the sun overpower and become the dominant reading over the flash with the light meter? Then the flash will still cover the shadowed area of the face? If not then will the opposite happen where the flash overpowers the sun and become the dominant reading Then the face will evenly be lit regardless of the sun?
Answer: If you are using sekonic light meter, the ratio of ambient and flash power is shown as a percentage on your meter. Here is a picture :
http://english.sekonic.co.jp/files/pages/meter_l_358/358_img.gif
Now, let me elaborate a little. If your issue is that part of the face is spotted by shadows - then your solution is to move the subject, rotate the subject elsewhere, or as i said, put a diffuser to remove the shadowed area. Light is additive, so if you flash both highlighted and shadowed area of a face, you will likely overexpose the highlight area.
Third : best metering mode :
Answer: Personally, I always use the mode closest to a flash meter, that is center weighted. That makes sure my subject is lighted properly. I always shoot manual - so, for shots like these
2 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
1. I point the camera at the faces,
2. and set my shutter speed and aperture such that it looks like I am going to underexpose the center (my subject) slightly.
3. Later, in PP, I increase overall brightness, and taddaaaa,,,I get these backlighted scenes shot.
However, I can easily achieve the same shot with a overall scene metering mode,
given the exact same scene of lots of lights coming from the window. How?
1. Point the camera at the faces. It will automatically sense that the overall scene is bright...and automatically underexpose my subjects.
2. Later, in PP, I increase overall brightness, and taddaaaa,,,I get these backlighted scenes shot.
But i need to stress, if the scene is different, the result would be different with overall scene metering mode. If you are not certain how these metering mode works, i suggest to stick with center weight - because it will give you the most predictable result.
About your 540, ...you can make it as easy or as complicated as you want. Here is an easy way to use it :
- Put it on, set it to auto, and fire away. If its too hot, or too dark, then use flash compensation value on the flash. It takes one second to do.
Here is another easy way to use it :
- Set it to manual, set it to 1/1 power. Shoot. if its too bright, set it to 1/2 power. shoot. And continue until you find a good value. In reality - you seldom need a meter. Just tell your clients that you are testing your lights. You can run all the power settings in a few seconds.
A complicated way to use it is obviously to set it off camera, meter everything, and then set the power. I only do this in studio shots when I have nothing to do while waiting for the models to get ready. I seldom bring a flash meter anywhere else.
Originally posted by LeDave Hi Darknezz, thanks. I was trying to make it so the background slightly underexpose to make the subject pop more with fill flash.
Also thanks for the other reply on the light meter also. I know to always set the light meter on the spot where the flash is directly hitting to find the exposure. I find that a lot of my photographs have a lot of hotspots and dark shadows on the subject. So I was wondering if I could set the lightmeter on the subject directly where the hotspot is going to be such as where the sun is hitting. Then meter my camera out that way. I know the flash will cover a wide array of the subject because it's going to have a diffuser on it. So was hoping to find out if what I have said and attempt to do it so that the exposure is better on the subject to the point where minimal pp'ing is needed to bring out the best of the image, meaning no shadows too dark so that data won't able to be recovered, and no highlights too bright where data won't be able to be recovered.
Will the sun overpower and become the dominant reading over the flash with the light meter? Then the flash will still cover the shadowed area of the face? If not then will the opposite happen where the flash overpowers the sun and become the dominant reading Then the face will evenly be lit regardless of the sun? Thanks.
One last thing, sorry for all the questions. I acquired my AF540FGZ months ago but never truly used it or needed it until now, and now I am having troubles. I'm a huge flash gun newbie. Also I am planning to buy a light meter within the next couple months. Now to the question; What's the best metering to use for these situations? I am guessing it's the Multi/Matrix metering being better over center-weighted?