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stormtech · 02-01-2013, 09:36 AM

Thanks - I think I will concentrate on the 433D then.

I am not going to buy any small items like this from KEH as their minimum shipping of $18.29 is ridiculous. They have just implemented USPS First Class shipping for items under 10oz which is a step in the right direction.

Not a Number · 02-01-2013, 09:40 AM

I don't have a 422D so I don't know what the time window is for resetting after time out (auto time out is 1 minute). The 433D has an ISO 100 Guide Number of 120 vs 100 for the 422D. If you already have a 422D it would make it a little trickier balancing multiple flashes. There are no interchangeable modules for the 433D either. No sleep function.

My Minolta 360PX and 80PX flashes have an auto sleep time out of five minutes. They wake up when connected to a Minolta body when I activate the meter or press the calculator dial light on the 360PX or the focus assist lights on the 80PX (ring light). No time window after going to sleep since these could be woken up by the multi-function back in interval mode.

stormtech · 02-01-2013, 09:52 AM

Thanks for the info on the sleep function on the different units.

I am back to square one with the Sunpak units - don't own any except the one I just got that won't regulate the power output. So, I am going to look for the 433D then. I would like to end up with 2 units the same to use on my triggers.

This has been a bit of a frustrating experience getting two defective units in a row - a little gun shy now. I am contemplating now to just get 2 new Yongnuo 560II or plain 560 and be done with it. The Sunpak units looked great at half the cost, but it has turned out to be a gamble buying them used on ebay.

SOldBear · 02-01-2013, 10:06 AM

stormtech, check your PM.

Not a Number · 02-01-2013, 10:22 AM

If the seller is letting you keep the unit you might try pulling off the plastic panel on the back. It's just held on with adhesive. I just warmed it slightly with a hair dryer set on low and snagged a finger nail in one of the slots for the sliders and pull slowly, evenly and gently. When the nearest edge popped up you can get the rest off.

As I recall, although it has been a least 5 years since I did this, the sliders with indicators have a slot that the actual slide switch fits into. It is possible the switch slipped out of this slot. A touch of spray contact cleaner on the slide switch probably wouldn't hurt either.

Buying used is always a bit of crap shoot. So far I've been lucky.

stormtech · 02-01-2013, 04:12 PM

Originally posted by Not a Number

If the seller is letting you keep the unit you might try pulling off the plastic panel on the back. It's just held on with adhesive. I just warmed it slightly with a hair dryer set on low and snagged a finger nail in one of the slots for the sliders and pull slowly, evenly and gently. When the nearest edge popped up you can get the rest off.

As I recall, although it has been a least 5 years since I did this, the sliders with indicators have a slot that the actual slide switch fits into. It is possible the switch slipped out of this slot. A touch of spray contact cleaner on the slide switch probably wouldn't hurt either.

Buying used is always a bit of crap shoot. So far I've been lucky.

Well now that I own it and have received my refund (kudos to Jacks Camera!) I might just try that. I just don't want to be anywhere near the capacitor!

wildlifephotog · 09-26-2014, 09:11 AM

This may help someone who has a 422D that won't adjust power level.
I just bought one that wouldn't adjust. So I opened the Pentax module on the flash and snipped the light cell wires. Hello! Now it adjusts in manual no problem. Evidently a shorted light cell. No biggie, I only use manual anyway.

*stevebrot- I know, zombie thread. But I thought it might help someone.

Last edited by wildlifephotog; 09-26-2014 at 10:33 AM.

Not a Number · 09-26-2014, 05:10 PM

Originally posted by wildlifephotog

just bought one that wouldn't adjust. So I opened the Pentax module on the flash and snipped the light cell wires. Hello! Now it adjusts in manual no problem. Evidently a shorted light cell. No biggie, I only use manual anyway.

The power adjust switch only works in Manual mode and not TTL or Auto. Cutting the wire on the photocell will just make it fire at full power in the auto modes.

wildlifephotog · 09-26-2014, 06:17 PM

It would not adjust in manual. After cutting wires it does. In auto the power was all over the place. I'd rather have it just manual, and predictable.

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02-01-2013, 09:36 AM	#31
stormtech Veteran Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: In the boonies (NW Penna) Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 5,744 Original Poster	Thanks - I think I will concentrate on the 433D then. I am not going to buy any small items like this from KEH as their minimum shipping of $18.29 is ridiculous. They have just implemented USPS First Class shipping for items under 10oz which is a step in the right direction.

02-01-2013, 09:40 AM	#32
Not a Number Moderator Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Venice, CA Posts: 10,526	I don't have a 422D so I don't know what the time window is for resetting after time out (auto time out is 1 minute). The 433D has an ISO 100 Guide Number of 120 vs 100 for the 422D. If you already have a 422D it would make it a little trickier balancing multiple flashes. There are no interchangeable modules for the 433D either. No sleep function. My Minolta 360PX and 80PX flashes have an auto sleep time out of five minutes. They wake up when connected to a Minolta body when I activate the meter or press the calculator dial light on the 360PX or the focus assist lights on the 80PX (ring light). No time window after going to sleep since these could be woken up by the multi-function back in interval mode.

02-01-2013, 09:52 AM	#33
stormtech Veteran Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: In the boonies (NW Penna) Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 5,744 Original Poster	Thanks for the info on the sleep function on the different units. I am back to square one with the Sunpak units - don't own any except the one I just got that won't regulate the power output. So, I am going to look for the 433D then. I would like to end up with 2 units the same to use on my triggers. This has been a bit of a frustrating experience getting two defective units in a row - a little gun shy now. I am contemplating now to just get 2 new Yongnuo 560II or plain 560 and be done with it. The Sunpak units looked great at half the cost, but it has turned out to be a gamble buying them used on ebay.

02-01-2013, 10:06 AM	#34
SOldBear Veteran Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Alameda, CA Posts: 3,206	stormtech, check your PM.

02-01-2013, 10:22 AM	#35
Not a Number Moderator Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Venice, CA Posts: 10,526	If the seller is letting you keep the unit you might try pulling off the plastic panel on the back. It's just held on with adhesive. I just warmed it slightly with a hair dryer set on low and snagged a finger nail in one of the slots for the sliders and pull slowly, evenly and gently. When the nearest edge popped up you can get the rest off. As I recall, although it has been a least 5 years since I did this, the sliders with indicators have a slot that the actual slide switch fits into. It is possible the switch slipped out of this slot. A touch of spray contact cleaner on the slide switch probably wouldn't hurt either. Buying used is always a bit of crap shoot. So far I've been lucky.

02-01-2013, 04:12 PM	#36
stormtech Veteran Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: In the boonies (NW Penna) Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 5,744 Original Poster	Originally posted by Not a Number If the seller is letting you keep the unit you might try pulling off the plastic panel on the back. It's just held on with adhesive. I just warmed it slightly with a hair dryer set on low and snagged a finger nail in one of the slots for the sliders and pull slowly, evenly and gently. When the nearest edge popped up you can get the rest off. As I recall, although it has been a least 5 years since I did this, the sliders with indicators have a slot that the actual slide switch fits into. It is possible the switch slipped out of this slot. A touch of spray contact cleaner on the slide switch probably wouldn't hurt either. Buying used is always a bit of crap shoot. So far I've been lucky. Well now that I own it and have received my refund (kudos to Jacks Camera!) I might just try that. I just don't want to be anywhere near the capacitor!

09-26-2014, 09:11 AM	#37
wildlifephotog Inactive Account Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: USA Posts: 924	This may help someone who has a 422D that won't adjust power level. I just bought one that wouldn't adjust. So I opened the Pentax module on the flash and snipped the light cell wires. Hello! Now it adjusts in manual no problem. Evidently a shorted light cell. No biggie, I only use manual anyway. stevebrot- I know, zombie thread. But I thought it might help someone. Last edited by wildlifephotog; 09-26-2014 at 10:33 AM.*

09-26-2014, 05:10 PM	#38
Not a Number Moderator Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Venice, CA Posts: 10,526	Originally posted by wildlifephotog just bought one that wouldn't adjust. So I opened the Pentax module on the flash and snipped the light cell wires. Hello! Now it adjusts in manual no problem. Evidently a shorted light cell. No biggie, I only use manual anyway. The power adjust switch only works in Manual mode and not TTL or Auto. Cutting the wire on the photocell will just make it fire at full power in the auto modes.

09-26-2014, 06:17 PM	#39
wildlifephotog Inactive Account Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: USA Posts: 924	It would not adjust in manual. After cutting wires it does. In auto the power was all over the place. I'd rather have it just manual, and predictable.

Used Sunpak 422D

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