[Culture]

I have two manual flashes that I am trying to use to learn flash photography.
I have been trying to do some high key photography. With one flash for the background and one for the main.
I was shooting my daughter jumping on the bed. I got some good shots.

But most of the pictures were blown out on the background partly due to the fact that she was jumping erractically and jumping into the backround light.
The histogram also shows that the highlights were being clipped. I think I was on half power.
The reason I had also I power was to try to get the light to the otherside of the background (if you get my drift), as I am using only one flash for the background.

So my question is how can light the background (white) without clipping the highlights. Or is it supposed to be clipped.
Also how can I get an even spread of light using only one flash. I have one silver reflective umbrella, and shoot through white umbrella.


Culture

[hks_kansei]

I always thought High key was supposed to have a lot of white blown sections.

High-key lighting - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

On the baby pic they've used as an example pretty much everything except the face looks completely blown out.

[Deiberson]

Probably want to use at least 3 lights. 2 on the BG and one on the subject. If the blowout from the background is on the subject, then the subject is getting spill light on them and need to be further away from the background.
Start HERE

[Deiberson]

Hi-Key is referenced in 2 different ways.
One is lack of shadows, my suggestion. The other is what hks suggested and that is blown out features.

[psychdoc]

You probably are not looking to spend that much money, but the 'Lastolite Hilite', is specifically made for hi-key photography.

I reviewed [beginner to high key] this product here:
Lastolite Hilite Background lighting system reviews - Pentax Camera Accessory Review Database

[kenyee]

Silhoutte her against a patio door and use the sun to blow out your window. Use the other flashes for key/fill.

[Culture]

You probably are not looking to spend that much money, but the 'Lastolite Hilite', is specifically made for hi-key photography.

I reviewed [beginner to high key] this product here:
Lastolite Hilite Background lighting system reviews - Pentax Camera Accessory Review Database

Its a little too much for me and I dont have the space. But it looks a very good option.

[builttospill]

Hang on. A high-key image is not a high-contrast image. Blown highlights do not make a photo high-key (it ruins a photo in my opinion, unless it's just the background). You'll need a good lighting setup to do a nice high-key image, but please don't think by just blowing highlights or overexposing an image means you have high-key.

The best explanation, with examples, I've found is here: 9. High Key Imaging
"...high key lighting in the digital age is where...all tones in the image will be above 128 with the exception of a few black tones"

[Culture]

I always thought High key was supposed to have a lot of white blown sections.

High-key lighting - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

On the baby pic they've used as an example pretty much everything except the face looks completely blown out.

This was a good link. So I guess I was doing it right after all even though it was not what I intended with the spill light. Thanks

Probably want to use at least 3 lights. 2 on the BG and one on the subject. If the blowout from the background is on the subject, then the subject is getting spill light on them and need to be further away from the background.
Start HERE

Apparently there are two ways, one with spill and one without. Before this thread I had only seen those ones without spill.

That led me to think I was burning my subject even though I like it I still thought it was wrong.

Thanks for this link. Nice info here.

Silhoutte her against a patio door and use the sun to blow out your window. Use the other flashes for key/fill.

Will try this one and see how it turns out. Thanks.

[maxfield_photo]

Separation is important to good high key lighting. If your subject is too close to the background you will get spill from the lights and "contamination" from the background on your subject. Now that has a look in and of itself, but generally is to be avoided. An incident reading taken behind the subject's head facing toward the background should read at least two stops below the background exposure. So for instance, if your background meters at f/11, you want enough distance between it and your subject that an incident reading taken behind your subject is no more than f/5.6. The color and specularity of your background will determine what that distance is. Obviously a light meter comes in handy when determining this, but the short of it is, if you're getting background contamination around the edges of your subject, move them further away if possible.