[rparmar]

Rather a newbie question here, but I am a little overwhelmed by all the older flash models out there. I'm looking for a bargain on a couple of flashes I can set up with triggers. I see units like the Sunpak 383 recommended. But there are units out there that are cheaper still. I wonder if any are worth it, considering the need for power reduction, trigger voltages within tolerable limits, etc.

One specific thing I'm confused about are all the flashes made for specific cameras. If I locate a "Sunpak Auto 433D Flash for Olympus" for example, does that mean it will not fit on the shoe of a Pentax? For some reason I thought shoes were standardised.

And even if it won't fit, can I run it off-camera using a trigger? Even if it's not for a Pentax? I have to imagine I can.

Has anyone experience with the Gadget Infinity flashes? Here's the link. Not sure if they have power controls. Or their voltage.

[Mikhail]

If you want to play it safe go with the 383, it will do you well!

"All" flashes besides Minolta\Sony ones have the standard ISO (I believe) hot shoe. Some flashes will say without module or something similar which could imply it is shoeless and you would need to get a shoe for it (and sensor and stuff that comes in the module).

The Sunpak 422(D) and 433(D) should have the standard ISO shoe unless a M\S mount, and should have power controls. Some models depending on what make it is for\module it has does not have power controls but most do. If the seller doesnt mention it, simply ask for a picture of the back of the unit and it will be quite clear if it has power controls or not.

I dont believe the GI ones do, I asked them and their answer was wishy-washy so I would say no stick with the known ones, SB-24\25\26\28, 285HV, 383\433\422 etc etc...

Thanks

This slider is what you would be looking for on the back of the unit.

[rparmar]

"All" flashes besides Minolta\Sony ones have the standard ISO (I believe) hot shoe.

Strange that so many flashes say they are dedicated to a particular brand. Or maybe that's just Sunpak's way of getting one-thousand different models to market!

I dont believe the GI ones do, I asked them and their answer was wishy-washy so I would say no stick with the known ones, SB-24\25\26\28, 285HV, 383\433\422 etc etc...

yeah, they look a little cheap. Thanks for the good info.

[Mikhail]

[QUOTE=rparmar;198513]Strange that so many flashes say they are dedicated to a particular brand. Or maybe that's just Sunpak's way of getting one-thousand different models to market!
Well it normally refers to the metering system, each company meters differently so they needed different flash models. But when using off camera brand dedication means nothing (except with S\M)

I dont believe the GI ones do, I asked them and their answer was wishy-washy so I would say no stick with the known ones, SB-24\25\26\28, 285HV, 383\433\422 etc etc.../QUOTE]

yeah, they look a little cheap. Thanks for the good info.

Good luck!
Thanks

[rparmar]

SB-24\25\26\28

So, with these Nikons, is there any advantage to getting the later models? My understanding is that they are all TTL flashes with tilt, swivel and zoom heads and guide numbers around 118. Later added features like rear curtain, slow sync and the built-in wireless slave on the SB-26 are not going to work with Pentax bodies anyway, are they? So maybe the only plus is the lighter weight of the SB-28, but those seem to go for a lot more.

Again, I'm just reaching out here blindly, but thankfully I am being provided with light...

[ryan s]

I haven't messed around with my SB-24 enough to figure out the slow sync etc etc...the TTL won't work, but oh well.

If you're going off camera, I wouldn't worry about it too much (but that's just me).

If you do intend to use it on the hot shoe here n there, this site has a list of "safe voltage" flashes...you're looking for ~6V max

[rparmar]

If you do intend to use it on the hot shoe here n there, this site has a list of "safe voltage" flashes...you're looking for ~6V max

Cool, yeah, I found that one. I wonder where the figure of 6V comes from? I was restricting myself to under 12V so that the Cactus remotes could be used. I have found very little on what is safe for the Pentax digitals, except mentions that they can take more voltage than other dSLRs. One person on Strobist mentioned that up to 24V is safe, but does anyone know for sure?

In any case, all the Nikons recommended above are less than 6V. But a number of the Sunpaks are more, the 383 Super measuring up to 10.29V according to that site. So I deduce the safe limit must be more than 6V.

Still, all are less than 12V. I think if there is not more concrete evidence I will use that as my guide.

[ryan s]

I'm guessing it's somewhere around 12V. The EOS are a lot lower at 6V...which is their "official" number. I've heard people go up to 24V with their EOS, but no thanks. I bought the Nikon flash cause it's a solid unit with tons of functionality, plus I can throw it on the hot shoe of either of my cams.

The Cactus remotes come in 2 flavors: V2 and V2s. The V2s is the one used for low voltage flashes, and it works with the SB flashes for sure

[Mikhail]

So, with these Nikons, is there any advantage to getting the later models? My understanding is that they are all TTL flashes with tilt, swivel and zoom heads and guide numbers around 118. Later added features like rear curtain, slow sync and the built-in wireless slave on the SB-26 are not going to work with Pentax bodies anyway, are they? So maybe the only plus is the lighter weight of the SB-28, but those seem to go for a lot more.

Again, I'm just reaching out here blindly, but thankfully I am being provided with light...

TTL metering wont work on any of them, Im not sure about rear curtain or slow sync, but the SB26 is popular because of the built in optical slave\delay flash mode thingymabob.
Also you get more stop increases and smaller increases with later models. SB-24 goes down to 1/16 I think, SB-25 down to 1/64 (dont quote me on those cant remember).
Also battery life may be improved and you could get some more power from the later ones.

The pentax voltage is atleast 12V, closer to around 24V I think, but with any of the mentioned flashes you are fine.

On the note of the triggers if at all possible stay away from the V2(s) triggers.. I had a mild rant about them.. ill have a quick search for it.

Thanks

[Mikhail]

Don't get the V2(s)!

Thanks

[rparmar]

SB26 is popular because of the built in optical slave\delay flash mode thingymabob.

Do you need two SB-26 to make that happen? Or can it sync from something else?

Also you get more stop increases and smaller increases with later models. SB-24 goes down to 1/16 I think, SB-25 down to 1/64 (dont quote me on those cant remember).

You are right exactly. Also the Sunpak 383 and similar only go down to 1/16, but I have no baseline for knowing if that would be a real limitation.

[AVANT]

The K100D Super only supports P-TTL flashes (which is different from TTL), this means any flash power adjustment will have to be done internally on the flash unit.

Some flashes will have an Auto (where you have to enter in the ISO and f/stop, then the flash unit will adjust power according), while other flashes have power adjustments under manual mode (1/16, 1/8, etc), and the cheapest hotshoe flashes won't have adjustments at all (always full power).

With that said, what kinds of photography do you shoot? As I would strongly encourage you to invest in a P-TTL capable flash if you are planning to do quick snapshots. A non-P-TTL flash will generally require noticably more planning and tweaking to obtain the desired lighting.

[rparmar]

With that said, what kinds of photography do you shoot? As I would strongly encourage you to invest in a P-TTL capable flash if you are planning to do quick snapshots. A non-P-TTL flash will generally require noticably more planning and tweaking to obtain the desired lighting.

I don't think I'll be using flash for snapshots but rather for more controlled situations including studio work, macros and some portraits. I am a complete beginner at flash so I am learning from the bottom. That's why I'd rather get to learn how they really work. I don't mind manually adjusting strengths, since I'll have some time to experiment and eventually get a feel for things.

To start with I'd be happy with one flash off camera and one on, providing I can tune the power of each down, and sync them together. The cost of a couple of Pentax flashes is so much more than that of an old Nikon. So any suggestions are welcome. I am reading a lot here and elsewhere but a lot of threads assume basic knowledge I am only just attaining.

[Mikhail]

Do you need two SB-26 to make that happen? Or can it sync from something else?

Nope, I believe just another flash. Its an optical slave that kicks in after the first flash has finished firing.

You are right exactly. Also the Sunpak 383 and similar only go down to 1/16, but I have no baseline for knowing if that would be a real limitation.

Well it is only really used for close up photography or bringing the flash in close to increase fall off or softness.

Thanks

[Mikhail]

I would rather go the way of manual off camera flash. Anyone can do P-TTL flashing... it doesnt involve much thought on the photogs part at all. Rather learn the harder stuff and maybe later if you want it get a do it all system you can but you have the knowledge about light before hand.

Why would you want one on camera and one off exactly..? Seems slightly odd.. and it means your other flash would have to be a optical slave..

Thanks