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09-04-2013, 06:55 PM   #1
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Looking for advice on which flash or flashes suit my requirements.

In general, I prefer to use manual focus and natural light where possible, but lately I've been frustrated with low light social situations, and macro work.

For large rooms and portrait work, I want something without invasive white colour. I'm happy to use gels if needs be. Most of my social/function/party shots are shot using interval mode, as I find that people look far more natural when they don't know they are being photographed. Obviously when I can, I avoid using a flash with interval work for obvious reasons, but if it means that a higher percentage of my shots will be usable, due to less or no motion blur, then it wouldn't have to shoot as frequently.

For large rooms, is it best to use little slave flashes to avoid harsh shadowing? Where is best to position slaves in these situations? Just out of frame? Halfway between edge of frame and the camera? behind the subjects, but hidden from direct camera view? I'd like to keep an element of atmosphere if possible, which I've only been able to achieve so far without a flash. Quite difficult for dim rooms, which is a shame, because the shots that end up working look amazing, because of the softer lighting.

Macro:

I need something that can be used in pitch black. I want a continuous light for focusing only, which switches off before the shutter opens.

Low light telephoto:

Not necessary, but desirable, would be a light which could adequately light say, an owl or roosting bird about 6-7 metres away while I focus, paired with a flash bulb that has adequate reach. If I can't achieve that in the same package, I guess I'll just have to buy a spotlight, but that means I'd have to use a tripod, so I could turn it on, focus on relatively still subject, turn it off, then either use long exposure, or flash it, or use a combination of the two. I'd rather not have to use a spotlight as a light source while the shutter is open, but if I have to, I will. I'll probably end up doing this anyway, for longer distance shots, so if anyone has spotlight suggestions, fire away.

tl;dr

Manual focuser needs flash for social events with decent reach, without harsh shadows. Also needs a way to focus in little to no light situations in widely varying distances.

09-05-2013, 04:55 PM - 1 Like   #2
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QuoteOriginally posted by timbo Quote
In general, I prefer to use manual focus and natural light where possible, but lately I've been frustrated with low light social situations, and macro work.

For large rooms and portrait work, I want something without invasive white colour. I'm happy to use gels if needs be. Most of my social/function/party shots are shot using interval mode, as I find that people look far more natural when they don't know they are being photographed. Obviously when I can, I avoid using a flash with interval work for obvious reasons, but if it means that a higher percentage of my shots will be usable, due to less or no motion blur, then it wouldn't have to shoot as frequently.

For large rooms, is it best to use little slave flashes to avoid harsh shadowing? Where is best to position slaves in these situations? Just out of frame? Halfway between edge of frame and the camera? behind the subjects, but hidden from direct camera view? I'd like to keep an element of atmosphere if possible, which I've only been able to achieve so far without a flash. Quite difficult for dim rooms, which is a shame, because the shots that end up working look amazing, because of the softer lighting.

Macro:

I need something that can be used in pitch black. I want a continuous light for focusing only, which switches off before the shutter opens.

Low light telephoto:

Not necessary, but desirable, would be a light which could adequately light say, an owl or roosting bird about 6-7 metres away while I focus, paired with a flash bulb that has adequate reach. If I can't achieve that in the same package, I guess I'll just have to buy a spotlight, but that means I'd have to use a tripod, so I could turn it on, focus on relatively still subject, turn it off, then either use long exposure, or flash it, or use a combination of the two. I'd rather not have to use a spotlight as a light source while the shutter is open, but if I have to, I will. I'll probably end up doing this anyway, for longer distance shots, so if anyone has spotlight suggestions, fire away.

tl;dr

Manual focuser needs flash for social events with decent reach, without harsh shadows. Also needs a way to focus in little to no light situations in widely varying distances.
Have you checked out the sticky post "Pentax P-TTL Flash Comparison" at the top of this sub-forum?

The contrast level (harshness) of flash is relative to the size of the light source to the subject. Most photographers in the social situations you describe either bounce the flash and/or use defusers to make the light source bigger. For example, bounce the flash off a white ceiling or wall, or use a softbox.

Light output on flashes of the type you are interested is given in Guide Numbers (GN), the higher the GN the bigger the output and the longer the useful distance. And higher GN is also valuable when bouncing and defusing light. However, as you might guess, higher GN also equates to higher price. Further, because the flash is typically very close to the subject for macro photography, higher GN might be a liability unless the flash can be substantially reduced in output.

I have a friend who jokingly told me he was looking for a nice home in a quiet location near the airport for easy travel. Your list of needs for one flash unit is a reminder of that day.
09-05-2013, 06:12 PM   #3
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QuoteOriginally posted by JimJohnson Quote
Have you checked out the sticky post "Pentax P-TTL Flash Comparison" at the top of this sub-forum?

The contrast level (harshness) of flash is relative to the size of the light source to the subject. Most photographers in the social situations you describe either bounce the flash and/or use defusers to make the light source bigger. For example, bounce the flash off a white ceiling or wall, or use a softbox.

Light output on flashes of the type you are interested is given in Guide Numbers (GN), the higher the GN the bigger the output and the longer the useful distance. And higher GN is also valuable when bouncing and defusing light. However, as you might guess, higher GN also equates to higher price. Further, because the flash is typically very close to the subject for macro photography, higher GN might be a liability unless the flash can be substantially reduced in output.

I have a friend who jokingly told me he was looking for a nice home in a quiet location near the airport for easy travel. Your list of needs for one flash unit is a reminder of that day.
Thanks mate, that all makes a lot of sense. I was a bit overwhelmed by terminology and nomenclature, so threads such as those were a little daunting. I figured I'd try to find out what I need first, then see which flash does it best.

As I said, the long range option isn't necessary. I can try my luck with spotlights at night, or perhaps a motion sensor setup, if I decide to get really tricky.

The main things I'm looking for in a flash is a nice bright light for focusing, and something that works nicely for social settings. You've explained the latter quite nicely. I'll have to have a look around for threads about bouncing light, and how best to do it.

I'm looking at the new Pentax flashes, but they are still on pre-order. I'd love to know how effective that light is on them, and if they have an option to light a subject until half press or something like that.
09-06-2013, 05:08 AM - 1 Like   #4
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QuoteOriginally posted by timbo Quote
For large rooms, is it best to use little slave flashes to avoid harsh shadowing?
It really dpends on the type of illumination in the room, the type of activity taking place, whether you will move around, etc.

QuoteOriginally posted by timbo Quote
Where is best to position slaves in these situations?
I'd say if you want to preserve the mood, either bounce the flash (flashes) to the ceiling, use two flashes facing each other (above the heads, pointing down) to both sides of you, or use a camera-mounted flash with a good diffuser such as a portable softbox or stofen/lightsphere mod.

QuoteOriginally posted by timbo Quote
behind the subjects, but hidden from direct camera view?
That would create cool effects but create silhouettes.

QuoteOriginally posted by timbo Quote
I'd like to keep an element of atmosphere if possible, which I've only been able to achieve so far without a flash.
I understand. One thing I've seen done effectively is to mount a flash on the camera, zoom the head quite a bit and directly illuminate one single person, isolating that person from the group. In particular, it works well with dancers and parties.

QuoteOriginally posted by timbo Quote
Macro:

I need something that can be used in pitch black. I want a continuous light for focusing only, which switches off before the shutter opens.
Most modern flashes with PTTL will have an AF spotbeam, and most advanced flashes (i.e. anything except the Standard version of the Sigma flashes) will have a spotbeam only mode, meaning the AF beam will work but the flash will not fire.

QuoteOriginally posted by timbo Quote
Not necessary, but desirable, would be a light which could adequately light say, an owl or roosting bird about 6-7 metres away while I focus, paired with a flash bulb that has adequate reach.
Any modern flash should work, though 6-7 meters might be nearing the limit of a spotbeam.

09-10-2013, 01:24 AM   #5
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Thanks heaps guys. All really useful info.
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