Cactus RF60 Flash Review

klaus123 · 12-05-2014, 04:03 AM

I have several flashes including 2 RF60 and 2 V6-units.

I do not like the menues of the RF60 as a controller and prefere to have a V6 on the camera - and if I want light there as well i use a 360-Pentax in PTTL / PTTL-trrou mode.

januko · 12-05-2014, 06:02 PM

Hhmm.. I take on that. Thanks!

Class A · 12-05-2014, 07:37 PM

Originally posted by klaus123

I have several flashes including 2 RF60 and 2 V6-units.

I do not like the menues of the RF60 as a controller and prefere to have a V6 on the camera - and if I want light there as well i use a 360-Pentax in PTTL / PTTL-trrou mode.

I think you are comparing "good" with "awesome".

The group control with an RF60 is of course not as convenient and fast as with a V6, but I think it's well done.

I also prefer a V6 on the camera, but if I wanted to use an on-camera flash as well, I'd have no problem using an RF60 to control further flashes (some of which could be RF60 and other that could be connected to a V6).

Ansr03 · 12-19-2014, 12:47 PM

Hi everybody, let me explain my setup a little:

I have just started using an RF60, off camera, controlled with a V6. It's the first flash that I have ever used.
I have the flash mounted on its side on a light stand using the female stud on the side of the flash. The flash head is sticking straight "up" along the shaft of a Photek Softlighter II umbrella rig.

Now, let me explain the issue I am experiencing:

It seems like there is a blind spot where the wireless signal does not reach the flash. I have not tested it too much, but it seems that there is an area on one side only about 18 inches away from the flash where the V6 cannot connect to the RF60. In this position, for reference, the infrared sensor is pointing towards the camera, the light stand is to my right. If I take pictures from this position the flash does not fire and I can't control the power or zoom. If I back straight up about 6 feet everything appears to work. And, if I take pictures from 18 inches away, but from the other side of the object, and, hence, the other side of the flash, everything appears to work.

My questions are: "Is this a problem inherent to this flash, or, to the way I have it set up, on its side?", and, "I understand that typically you mount these flashes vertically via their hotshoe, could mounting it laterally cause blind spots in certain locations around the flash?"

Thanks.

Class A · 12-20-2014, 03:58 AM

Originally posted by Ansr03

Now, let me explain the issue I am experiencing:...

I haven't tried to replicate your specific scenario but I would suggest that you try to switch the V6 to the "SHORT" working range mode. You'll find this setting in the sub-menu in the menu.

If a transmitter is too close to a receiver -- and what "close" is depends on the orientation and rotation of both devices -- then the receiver goes into signal overload and cannot decode the signal anymore.

The "SHORT" working range option allows you to get really close, at the expense of reach. Normal distances are still supported, though.

Have a look whether that helps, using the flash on its side or anything else you do is certainly fine in principle.

Ansr03 · 12-25-2014, 02:30 PM

Originally posted by Class A

I haven't tried to replicate your specific scenario but I would suggest that you try to switch the V6 to the "SHORT" working range mode. You'll find this setting in the sub-menu in the menu.

Thanks for this advice. I did not know that option was available. Unfortunately, it does not seem to solve this issue entirely. I found that with the flash mounted on a lightstand the radio signal can be checked easily from different camera positions by continually switching zoom settings on the V6 while moving the camera about, listening for the zoom motor in the flash. It appears there is a small blind spot projecting straight out from the optical sensor for about 18 inches. From that angle, the connection is only good beyond that distance.

This explains my problems with having the camera, light, and subject close together with the light to the right and the flash mounted on it's side; in this setup the optical sensor is facing the camera and is nearby. I will need to figure out a way to mount it so that the sensor faces the ground or into the umbrella. (Or maybe the light doesn't really need to be that close to the subject when taking closeups--I don't know.)

Thanks.

Class A · 12-25-2014, 07:08 PM

Originally posted by Ansr03

It appears there is a small blind spot projecting straight out from the optical sensor for about 18 inches. From that angle, the connection is only good beyond that distance.

Interesting, I have never come across that in my testing/use.

If the "SHORT" range option does not help then perhaps you are experiencing a "blind spot" of the RF60 antenna and moving further away just helps the radio signal to better bounce into the antenna from more favourable directions.

The antenna is printed on the PCB of the RF60 so there is no easy way to change its orientation.

Originally posted by Ansr03

I will need to figure out a way to mount it so that the sensor faces the ground or into the umbrella. (Or maybe the light doesn't really need to be that close to the subject when taking closeups--I don't know.)

Typically, being close to the subject with the light is good as it will provide softer light so I hope you will find a way to change the orientation of the flash somehow. Perhaps mounting it not entirely straight and using head tilt to compensate for the angle will already be sufficient?

Class A · 12-30-2014, 07:54 AM

Apple users with an RF60 can now use the Cactus Firmware Updater for Mac OS X 10.6.8 or above to update the firmware of their RF60 (or V6).

dcBear78 · 01-01-2015, 03:56 AM

Wish these were more widely available. No local sales here in Australia from what I can see.

And anywhere else (ie Andorama) want to rape you on ludicrous postage costs.

Class A · 01-01-2015, 08:11 AM

Originally posted by dcBear78

Wish these were more widely available. No local sales here in Australia from what I can see.

There are two dealers in Australia.

Class A · 01-12-2015, 01:34 AM

For those RF60 owners that own at least two V6 and a respective camera release cable, this technique to achieve HSS / HyperSync without P-TTL equipment is perhaps of interest.

klaus123 · 01-24-2015, 06:47 AM

Hello

I was surprised taht every time I pick my V6 transcievers after some weeks the batteries are empty - now I measured the current in off-Position: ~ 1 mA
In future I will store them w/o the batteries!

Class A · 01-24-2015, 07:06 AM

Originally posted by klaus123

I was surprised taht every time I pick my V6 transcievers after some weeks the batteries are empty - now I measured the current in off-Position: ~ 1 mA

Interesting observation.

I'll try to find out whether storing with the battery door open, for instance, will cause the V6 to forget the settings.

Hope you've been using rechargeables.

Class A · 02-03-2015, 08:00 AM

The most recent V6 firmware version (1.1.008) supports both Pentax AF 360 & 540 FGZ II with remote power control.

stevewong · 02-03-2015, 03:33 PM

Originally posted by Class A

The most recent V6 firmware version (1.1.008) supports both Pentax AF 360 & 540 FGZ II with remote power control.

Hello Class A,
Will V6 can trigger Pentax AF 360 in PTTL ?
Thanks,
steve

12-30-2014, 07:54 AM	#128
Class A Pentaxian Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Wellington, New Zealand Posts: 11,251 Original Poster	Cactus Firmware Updater for Mac released Apple users with an RF60 can now use the Cactus Firmware Updater for Mac OS X 10.6.8 or above to update the firmware of their RF60 (or V6).

01-12-2015, 01:34 AM	#131
Class A Pentaxian Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Wellington, New Zealand Posts: 11,251 Original Poster	HSS / HyperSync without an HSS-capable flash For those RF60 owners that own at least two V6 and a respective camera release cable, this technique to achieve HSS / HyperSync without P-TTL equipment is perhaps of interest.

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12-05-2014, 04:03 AM	#121
klaus123 Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Germany Posts: 238	I have several flashes including 2 RF60 and 2 V6-units. I do not like the menues of the RF60 as a controller and prefere to have a V6 on the camera - and if I want light there as well i use a 360-Pentax in PTTL / PTTL-trrou mode.

12-05-2014, 06:02 PM	#122
januko Forum Member Join Date: Nov 2014 Posts: 89	Hhmm.. I take on that. Thanks!

12-05-2014, 07:37 PM	#123
Class A Pentaxian Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Wellington, New Zealand Posts: 11,251 Original Poster	Originally posted by klaus123 I have several flashes including 2 RF60 and 2 V6-units. I do not like the menues of the RF60 as a controller and prefere to have a V6 on the camera - and if I want light there as well i use a 360-Pentax in PTTL / PTTL-trrou mode. I think you are comparing "good" with "awesome". The group control with an RF60 is of course not as convenient and fast as with a V6, but I think it's well done. I also prefer a V6 on the camera, but if I wanted to use an on-camera flash as well, I'd have no problem using an RF60 to control further flashes (some of which could be RF60 and other that could be connected to a V6).

12-19-2014, 12:47 PM	#124
Ansr03 New Member Join Date: Dec 2014 Posts: 2	Hi everybody, let me explain my setup a little: I have just started using an RF60, off camera, controlled with a V6. It's the first flash that I have ever used. I have the flash mounted on its side on a light stand using the female stud on the side of the flash. The flash head is sticking straight "up" along the shaft of a Photek Softlighter II umbrella rig. Now, let me explain the issue I am experiencing: It seems like there is a blind spot where the wireless signal does not reach the flash. I have not tested it too much, but it seems that there is an area on one side only about 18 inches away from the flash where the V6 cannot connect to the RF60. In this position, for reference, the infrared sensor is pointing towards the camera, the light stand is to my right. If I take pictures from this position the flash does not fire and I can't control the power or zoom. If I back straight up about 6 feet everything appears to work. And, if I take pictures from 18 inches away, but from the other side of the object, and, hence, the other side of the flash, everything appears to work. My questions are: "Is this a problem inherent to this flash, or, to the way I have it set up, on its side?", and, "I understand that typically you mount these flashes vertically via their hotshoe, could mounting it laterally cause blind spots in certain locations around the flash?" Thanks.

12-20-2014, 03:58 AM	#125
Class A Pentaxian Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Wellington, New Zealand Posts: 11,251 Original Poster	Originally posted by Ansr03 Now, let me explain the issue I am experiencing:... I haven't tried to replicate your specific scenario but I would suggest that you try to switch the V6 to the "SHORT" working range mode. You'll find this setting in the sub-menu in the menu. If a transmitter is too close to a receiver -- and what "close" is depends on the orientation and rotation of both devices -- then the receiver goes into signal overload and cannot decode the signal anymore. The "SHORT" working range option allows you to get really close, at the expense of reach. Normal distances are still supported, though. Have a look whether that helps, using the flash on its side or anything else you do is certainly fine in principle.

12-25-2014, 02:30 PM	#126
Ansr03 New Member Join Date: Dec 2014 Posts: 2	Originally posted by Class A I haven't tried to replicate your specific scenario but I would suggest that you try to switch the V6 to the "SHORT" working range mode. You'll find this setting in the sub-menu in the menu. Thanks for this advice. I did not know that option was available. Unfortunately, it does not seem to solve this issue entirely. I found that with the flash mounted on a lightstand the radio signal can be checked easily from different camera positions by continually switching zoom settings on the V6 while moving the camera about, listening for the zoom motor in the flash. It appears there is a small blind spot projecting straight out from the optical sensor for about 18 inches. From that angle, the connection is only good beyond that distance. This explains my problems with having the camera, light, and subject close together with the light to the right and the flash mounted on it's side; in this setup the optical sensor is facing the camera and is nearby. I will need to figure out a way to mount it so that the sensor faces the ground or into the umbrella. (Or maybe the light doesn't really need to be that close to the subject when taking closeups--I don't know.) Thanks.

12-25-2014, 07:08 PM	#127
Class A Pentaxian Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Wellington, New Zealand Posts: 11,251 Original Poster	Originally posted by Ansr03 It appears there is a small blind spot projecting straight out from the optical sensor for about 18 inches. From that angle, the connection is only good beyond that distance. Interesting, I have never come across that in my testing/use. If the "SHORT" range option does not help then perhaps you are experiencing a "blind spot" of the RF60 antenna and moving further away just helps the radio signal to better bounce into the antenna from more favourable directions. The antenna is printed on the PCB of the RF60 so there is no easy way to change its orientation. Originally posted by Ansr03 I will need to figure out a way to mount it so that the sensor faces the ground or into the umbrella. (Or maybe the light doesn't really need to be that close to the subject when taking closeups--I don't know.) Typically, being close to the subject with the light is good as it will provide softer light so I hope you will find a way to change the orientation of the flash somehow. Perhaps mounting it not entirely straight and using head tilt to compensate for the angle will already be sufficient?

01-01-2015, 03:56 AM	#129
dcBear78 Veteran Member Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Gladstone, QLD Photos: Gallery Posts: 823	Wish these were more widely available. No local sales here in Australia from what I can see. And anywhere else (ie Andorama) want to rape you on ludicrous postage costs.

01-01-2015, 08:11 AM	#130
Class A Pentaxian Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Wellington, New Zealand Posts: 11,251 Original Poster	Originally posted by dcBear78 Wish these were more widely available. No local sales here in Australia from what I can see. There are two dealers in Australia.

01-24-2015, 06:47 AM	#132
klaus123 Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Germany Posts: 238	Hello I was surprised taht every time I pick my V6 transcievers after some weeks the batteries are empty - now I measured the current in off-Position: ~ 1 mA In future I will store them w/o the batteries!

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01-24-2015, 07:06 AM	#133
Class A Pentaxian Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Wellington, New Zealand Posts: 11,251 Original Poster	Originally posted by klaus123 I was surprised taht every time I pick my V6 transcievers after some weeks the batteries are empty - now I measured the current in off-Position: ~ 1 mA Interesting observation. I'll try to find out whether storing with the battery door open, for instance, will cause the V6 to forget the settings. Hope you've been using rechargeables.

02-03-2015, 08:00 AM	#134
Class A Pentaxian Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Wellington, New Zealand Posts: 11,251 Original Poster	The most recent V6 firmware version (1.1.008) supports both Pentax AF 360 & 540 FGZ II with remote power control.

02-03-2015, 03:33 PM	#135
stevewong Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2013 Posts: 215	Originally posted by Class A The most recent V6 firmware version (1.1.008) supports both Pentax AF 360 & 540 FGZ II with remote power control. Hello Class A, Will V6 can trigger Pentax AF 360 in PTTL ? Thanks, steve