Originally posted by photokaybrown Both of my V6s were blinking green, and I am using Eneloop batteries.
Using Eneloops should be fine.
I only use Eneloops and don't have any problems with them.
I'm rather sure the rapid blinking of the V6 was due to the fact that you put the V6 that is connected to the camera (unit [B] in my description) to Tx mode.
maxfield_photo was spot on with his remarks about the V6 causing the trouble (not the RF60) and the fact that the unit connected to the camera needs to be in Rx mode.
Originally posted by photokaybrown I just know that I had to play around with some settings a bit, and when the RF60 began freaking out and randomly firing off shots, I think they were 'test' shots and maybe it was just trying to measure ambient light.
The RF60 will never do any measuring shots and will never initiate any test shots on its own.
Originally posted by photokaybrown When it did that, I would just turn off both V6s, and it would stop.
This supports my suspicion that you actually put the V6 that is connected to the camera via the cable in Tx mode (i.e., that it wasn't just a typo in your description).
I now remember that I had the same thing -- high frequency firing of the V6 and hence the remotely controlled RF60 -- happen to me myself in the past. It was when I tried to reduce the number of V6 needed for this "HSS with manual gear only"-trick.
The culprit is the camera, which for some reason unbeknown to me, starts sending out a high-frequency pulse out of its remote shutter release port after a while (IIRC, after the meter goes off). Any V6 in Tx mode connected to the camera via a shutter release cable will then fire very rapidly.
You can easily avoid that by setting the V6 that is connected to the camera to Rx mode and using the second V6 in Tx mode to trigger both the camera-connected V6 Rx and the flashes in parallel.
Originally posted by photokaybrown After about half an hour of just checking my settings, and getting the 'rhythm' of the whole process, I was able to use everything fine, but had to realize it takes about 30-60 seconds for the RF60 to cycle up again to take another shot.
If it was actual recycling time of the RF60 (rather than another problem) then this indicates that the RF60 was in overheating protection mode.
You can recognise that by a thermometer symbol that shows on the display.
There are two stages of overheat protection. In the first stage the RF60 will slow down a bit on recycling and in the second stage it will refuse to fire at all as long as it takes for the flash tube to cool down to safe levels again.
It sounds like through your testing you have issued a lot of flash triggers that drove the RF60 into overheat protection.
During normal shooting, it may not be a problem, but if you notice the overheating protection kicking in still, try reducing the flash power. Shooting at 1/2 power (or even less) will significantly drive up the number of shots you can take in quick succession before the overheat protection starts kicking in.
Originally posted by photokaybrown And even then, I have to gently press the TX (that's connected to the camera via cable) V6 for a second or two, then press all the way, and most of the time, the flash will go off with the exposure. Many times it won't, though. It's a bit wonky.
Try checking whether the RF60 has finished recycling whenever that happens.
I've never experienced any unreliable triggering and the only explanations I can think of is that the RF60 was still recycling or protecting itself from overheating.
maxfield_photo made a very good point about the camera perhaps wanting AF confirmation that it does not get. In this case, however, the camera should not fire either, when you press the V6 test button.
Originally posted by photokaybrown It's not highly reliable, but it's better than nothing.
I'm convinced you'll find the gear to be 100% reliable once you removed your last remaining hiccup in the setup.
Originally posted by photokaybrown I'd like to thank Class A for all the help.
No worries!