Originally posted by jbrowning I am using this for Motorcycle Roadracing and really need to figure out what I am doing wrong here.
Well, AFAIC, Pentax did something wrong when they decided to disable any flash trigger signal for shutter speeds beyond the sync speed (1/180s).
This means that if you want to go beyond 1/180s then currently the only way to get a trigger signal for external flashes is to use an HSS-capable flash connected to the camera. In your case this will probably have to be the 540 FGZ, unless you have other HSS-capable flashes. The HSS-capable flash connected to the camera will give you two options to trigger external flashes.
- trigger on the main flash output of the HSS-capable flash.
- trigger on the pre-flash of the HSS-capable flash.
For both of the above, you need to set the V6 to Tx mode and enable optical triggering. You also need to make sure that the V6 "sees" the light output of the flash connected to the camera. So far, I just held the V6 in my left hand and held it near the Fresnel lens of the on-camera HSS-flash. I typically turn the head of the on-camera HSS-flash away from the scene, because I don't want it to contribute any light, I just need it to generate an optical trigger signal.
If you stay under a certain shutter speed -- as I wrote it is about 1/2000s for my K100D -- then you can trigger on the main flash (that's "S2 - MAIN FLASH" on the V6) and leave the delay inactive. Set all your on-camera flashes to full power so that they produce the longest flash pulse possible. The lower the power, the shorter their pulse will be and this in turn will mean that the upper part of the frame will not be illuminated.
If your external flashes allow long HSS-bursts to be activated manually then this would be another option that avoids the need to be at full power all the time and also avoids the otherwise inevitable gradation. The gradation may not be an issue outdoors, though, when the upper part of the frame is filled with sky or far away objects anyhow.
Starting with a certain shutter speed, triggering on the main flash will not be fast enough anymore. You'll notice this by a black bar creeping up from the bottom of the frame. This means the light from the external flashes comes in after the second curtain has started moving already. Now is the time to switch to triggering on the pre-flash. Doing just the latter, however, would mean the external flashes would start firing too early. There is a time gap between the pre-flash and the main flash that the camera uses for processing the metering results from the pre-flash, stopping down the aperture, etc. That's why you need to dial in a corresponding delay time on your V6. On my K100D that's around 85ms, but unfortunately that time depends on the aperture used because smaller apertures take a little bit longer to set.
If you really need to use pre-flash triggering ("S1 FIRST FLASH" on the V6) then you'll have to experiment with the delay time for certain aperture values to make sure the external flashes fire at the optimal point in time.
I'd try to use shutter times that still work with main flash triggering, because this avoids dealing with varying delay times.
N.B., high shutter speeds are not necessarily ideal to stop action because the shutter curtains will always take at least 1/180s to travel over the sensor. You'll avoid local blur, but you'll get an effect similar to that of "rolling shutter" in video.
It can be better to set the shutter speed to 1/180 and reduce the ambient light by a combination of small aperture and ND filter. The main light would then have to come from external flashes set to 1/2 power or lower. The lower you can set them, the better they'll stop the action, but of course you'll need lots of flashguns at lower power to fight the small aperture and/or ND filter.
Last edited by Class A; 06-15-2014 at 08:25 PM.