[Oldbayrunner]

This step seems superfluous, unless you easily forget what the target (say "-1.5 EV") is and use exposure compensation to memorise it for you.

For my purpose it isn't superfluous and my memory is perfectly fine for a gent of 66 years old. Try to remember this the use of YOU in sentence structure is singular and accusatory the use of ONE is general and not

This works for me, YMMV.

And this in some cases works for me. Primarily I use this for outdoor strobist photography and I am not the only person that does. So taking cheap shots at it being only useful for someone who can't remember their settings isn't really becoming of you just because you use and do things a certain way. I respect a lot of what you put forth on here but certainly not everything needs to be used and accomplished your way. As I have Repeatedly stated this is just another way, heaven forbid someone mentions something out of the norm in these forums.

I've yet to see anyone who has this feature with their camera state using EV compensation in manual mode for pre-selecting ones exposure compensation and zeroing the meter doesn't work as a another method of controlling ones ambient light.

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Last edited by Oldbayrunner; 11-14-2014 at 08:15 AM.

[Class A]

For my purpose it isn't superfluous and my memory is perfectly fine for a gent of 66 years old.

If you could justify as to why it isn't superfluous, we might learn something.

Try to remember this the use of YOU in sentence structure is singular and accusatory the use of ONE is general and not

Both "one" and "you" can be used as indefinite pronouns.

My use of "you" was not meant to refer to you as an individual, but to everyone. In order to remove the ambiguity in this case, I changed my post to use "one" rather than "you".

I certainly had no "cheap shot" in mind, when I speculated about one possible justification for using an extra (exposure compensation) step when using manual mode.

As I have Repeatedly stated this is just another way, heaven forbid someone mentions something out of the norm in these forums.

I personally like if people do things out of the norm, because there might be something to learn.

I've yet to see anyone who has this feature with their camera state using EV compensation in manual mode for pre-selecting ones exposure compensation and zeroing the meter doesn't work as a another method of controlling ones ambient light.

I personally never said it does not work. I was only puzzled as to why one would want to built in the extra step of dialing in an exposure compensation when the same effect can be had without this step.

[derekkite]

no im saying the formation is influenced by how soon i can get the whole thing to happen . but please remeber Im trying to time three diffrent drops colliding please belive speed is an issue, not for the exposure but for the end formation if you will, as i said its a niche thing, i use up to six of those yougnuo yn560 mk2 set at 1/128 , but recently have upgraded my flashes to hss and am happily shooting as fast as i like, (currently trying to capture an air gun pellet through an egg)

Your flash at 1/128 power emits a flash that lasts about 1/25000 of a second. That is why you are able to freeze action of the drops, bullets or whatever. The shutter speed is immaterial. The only concern is that your the flash intensity is higher than the ambient light.

[Culture]

Of course.
The main advantage of a higher sync speed is to be able to make less light enter the lens without changing the aperture.
It is mainly useful in strong light conditions, like daylight, and when you do want a large(r) aperture in order to reduce DoF.

Now you have other methods to reduce light, apart from changing the aperture & the shutter speed: first one is lowering the ISO.
There is 1/3 of a stop between ISO 100 and ISO 80, so an ISO80-capable camera would allow you to use this in order to reduce light gathered by the sensor, and get by with a higher shutter speed in strong light.

As for ND filters, you can reduce light gathered by stopping it before it enters the lens. You can use ND filters up to 10-stop, or even variable ones. They might be a little pricey, but they're very useful, even when you don't use a flash.

In those situations where you want to achieve defocus (using a large aperture, say f/2.8 or f/4) in strong daylight and fill shadows with a flash, then neither ISO nor a half-stop faster sync speed is going to save you.
Since we could be talking about 4-5 stops here, you're left with HSS or an ND filter.

HSS is sure convenient, but not all flash units support it.

You might argue that all the techniques above rob flash of some strength, and you're forced to raise flash power to compensate, but so does HSS.
I hope it's clear enough!

Thanks for the explanation. The discussion got a little interesting and heavy to check your explanation.