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11-19-2014, 09:40 PM - 1 Like   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by ivanvernon Quote
Even cheaper, you can go back in history a little bit and pick up some older Pentax flashes like the AF series, which offers TTl metered flash, meaning the flash will automatically put out the right amount of light for your...
As far as I understand it, modern Pentax bodies do not provide ttl needed functionality. P-ttl is what replaced this.


Last edited by UncleVanya; 11-20-2014 at 01:30 PM.
11-19-2014, 11:54 PM - 1 Like   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by bradshea Quote
As far as I understand it, modern Pentax bodies do not proved ttl needed functionality. Pttl is what replaced this.
Correct, only bodies of the *istD era supported TTL, now it's only P-TTL (with preflashes and aperture calculations), thus not working with M lenses.
The OP could find this useful, I believe...
https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/6-pentax-dslr-discussion/99153-difference...ml#post1019119
Fourth post is very informative.
11-20-2014, 12:18 AM - 1 Like   #18
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Hi Maria,

QuoteOriginally posted by mariakruse Quote
I have a Speedlight for my older Canon but was told I need to get another one for the K-3. Is this true?
As LensBeginnner already mentioned, you should make sure that the trigger voltage of the flash is safe for your camera.

Try if you can find your model at this list of flash trigger voltages and/or post your flash model here. All Canon flashes I know of are safe to use on a Pentax, but I'd still make sure that the trigger voltage is below 25V.

A Canon flash will only support manual triggering on your Pentax cameras, which need not be a problem as ivanvernon points out, but you won't get rear-curtain sync and HSS.

If you want to use P-TTL then Metz is a good brand to look at.

If you want to save money, you may want to look this comparison of manual flash models. One of them, the Cactus RF60 supports manual rear-curtain sync (you need to select a delay time depending on shooting parameters) and also supports manual HSS (but unfortunately on a Pentax, you need at least one HSS-capable flash to make the camera produce a trigger signal once the shutter speed exceeds 1/180s).

You may also want to read my short explanation as to why you should get your flash off-camera (or use an on-camera flash for bouncing)).

Last edited by Class A; 11-20-2014 at 12:25 AM.
11-20-2014, 01:31 AM - 1 Like   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by Class A Quote
*snip*

If you want to use P-TTL then Metz is a good brand to look at.

*snip*
...not to spread F.U.D... but this just in...
https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/125-flashes-lighting-studio/279662-welp-m...nsolvency.html

11-20-2014, 07:45 AM   #20
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QuoteOriginally posted by Class A Quote
Hi Maria,


As LensBeginnner already mentioned, you should make sure that the trigger voltage of the flash is safe for your camera.

Try if you can find your model at this list of flash trigger voltages and/or post your flash model here. All Canon flashes I know of are safe to use on a Pentax, but I'd still make sure that the trigger voltage is below 25V.

A Canon flash will only support manual triggering on your Pentax cameras, which need not be a problem as ivanvernon points out, but you won't get rear-curtain sync and HSS.

If you want to use P-TTL then Metz is a good brand to look at.

If you want to save money, you may want to look this comparison of manual flash models. One of them, the Cactus RF60 supports manual rear-curtain sync (you need to select a delay time depending on shooting parameters) and also supports manual HSS (but unfortunately on a Pentax, you need at least one HSS-capable flash to make the camera produce a trigger signal once the shutter speed exceeds 1/180s).

You may also want to read my short explanation as to why you should get your flash off-camera (or use an on-camera flash for bouncing)).
I have a Vivitar Series 1 DF-293 NIK I used for my Nikon and a Canon Speedlite 430EXII. Would be handy if one of them would work with my Pentax. I can learn manual, and could do without rcs and hss for now.
maria
11-20-2014, 08:31 AM - 1 Like   #21
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hmmm...everyone seems to forget about the Sigma EF-610 ED Super for Pentax. It is powerful and has all of the features with the exception of of doing hss in wiress slave mode but it can be used as an hss wireless controller, for which I don't believe the Metz flashes will do hss wireless slave without having an AF360fgz or Af540fgz as a hotshoe controller. The other recommendation I would make is to take a look at the used Pentax Af540fgz's available on Keh. They will do anything you want a flash to do on a Pentax. I have both the Sigma 610 and two Af 540's and use the Sigma as a hot shoe controller for the 540's in hss wireless slave. For bright outdoors I use this same combination and the Aokatek radio trigger system for hss wireless. I can fire the shutter up to 1/8000 using this set up at up to apprx. 360 feet. Is all this necessary? not really but it is fun to have.

Last edited by Oldbayrunner; 11-20-2014 at 08:37 AM.
11-20-2014, 12:42 PM   #22
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If you are considering off camera flash then perhaps reading information on this site can provide you with a lot of insight. Strobist: Lighting 101
The only thing I feel isn't really necessary, with today's wireless off camera trigger selection, is starting off with a sync cord.

Along with using bounce flash the use of assorted types of diffusers can be very effective on or off camera. If your the DIY type many can be self made. For ideas see the DIY section on Strobist.


Last edited by Oldbayrunner; 11-20-2014 at 01:03 PM.
11-20-2014, 06:09 PM   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by mariakruse Quote
I have a Vivitar Series 1 DF-293 NIK I used for my Nikon and a Canon Speedlite 430EXII.
I did not find any published trigger voltage for the Vivitar DF-293, so unless you measure the trigger voltage yourself (-> "How to Check the Trigger Voltage"), I wouldn't use this flash on my camera.

You may still safely use the Vivitar on a radio trigger as an off-camera flash, though. Just make sure that the radio trigger can withstand the trigger voltage. Cactus triggers (V4, V5, V6) can withstand up to 300V and I haven't come across a flash that exceeds 300V.

The Canon 430EXII is safe to use on your Pentax cameras. With two V6 radio triggers, you could also take this flash off-camera and control its power level from the camera.

BTW, as the "Strobist: Lighting 101" site has been mentioned a couple of times now, this is indeed an excellent resource for flash photography with the exception of the gear recommendations, though. At the time (quite a while ago) it was written, the gear suggestions made sense, but nowadays you have much better choice amongst manual flashes.
11-20-2014, 06:21 PM   #24
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QuoteOriginally posted by Class A Quote
I did not find any published trigger voltage for the Vivitar DF-293, so unless you measure the trigger voltage yourself (-> "How to Check the Trigger Voltage"), I wouldn't use this flash on my camera.

You may still safely use the Vivitar on a radio trigger as an off-camera flash, though. Just make sure that the radio trigger can withstand the trigger voltage. Cactus triggers (V4, V5, V6) can withstand up to 300V and I haven't come across a flash that exceeds 300V.

The Canon 430EXII is safe to use on your Pentax cameras. With two V6 radio triggers, you could also take this flash off-camera and control its power level from the camera.

BTW, as the "Strobist: Lighting 101" site has been mentioned a couple of times now, this is indeed an excellent resource for flash photography with the exception of the gear recommendations, though. At the time (quite a while ago) it was written, the gear suggestions made sense, but nowadays you have much better choice amongst manual flashes.

If I use the Canon 430exII do I just plug it into the hot shoe and go normal like if it were on the Canon. Sorry to sound so stupid, but I really know very little about this. Never had the nerve to mess with flash much.
thank you so much for your advice.
maria
11-20-2014, 06:30 PM   #25
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QuoteOriginally posted by Class A Quote
BTW, as the "Strobist: Lighting 101" site has been mentioned a couple of times now, this is indeed an excellent resource for flash photography with the exception of the gear recommendations, though. At the time (quite a while ago) it was written, the gear suggestions made sense, but nowadays you have much better choice amongst manual flashes.
+1 (I missed Jatrax's link) Yep I agree on the gear portion. He really should revamp that part.
11-20-2014, 06:42 PM   #26
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QuoteOriginally posted by mariakruse Quote
If I use the Canon 430exII do I just plug it into the hot shoe and go normal like if it were on the Canon.
Yes, just put it into the hot-shoe.

Just make sure to
  • put the flash into manual mode and choose a power level according to the exposure you need, and
  • do not use a shutter speed faster than 1/180s. Otherwise, your Pentax cameras won't create a trigger signal anymore. The easiest way to guarantee that you don't exceed 1/180s is to use manual (M), Tv or X mode. You can certainly try to use Av (typically with exposure compensation) but whenever the camera chooses a shutter speed faster than 1/180s, your flash won't fire anymore.
BTW, you can only select 1/180s as a shutter speed if your exposure steps are set to 1/2. If you are using 1/3 steps then you only get 1/160s and 1/200s as choices, which is not a problem per se, but sometimes people wonder why they cannot seem to set 1/180s.
11-20-2014, 07:27 PM - 1 Like   #27
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QuoteOriginally posted by Class A Quote
Yes, just put it into the hot-shoe.

Just make sure to
  • put the flash into manual mode and choose a power level according to the exposure you need, and
  • do not use a shutter speed faster than 1/180s. Otherwise, your Pentax cameras won't create a trigger signal anymore. The easiest way to guarantee that you don't exceed 1/180s is to use manual (M), Tv or X mode. You can certainly try to use Av (typically with exposure compensation) but whenever the camera chooses a shutter speed faster than 1/180s, your flash won't fire anymore.
BTW, you can only select 1/180s as a shutter speed if your exposure steps are set to 1/2. If you are using 1/3 steps then you only get 1/160s and 1/200s as choices, which is not a problem per se, but sometimes people wonder why they cannot seem to set 1/180s.


Thank you, since my K-3 is still in the shop waiting for parts I shall try it out on my K-x tomorrow. I am really looking forward to learning this.
thank you,
maria
11-21-2014, 05:56 PM   #28
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You are welcome.

Just take your time. With a bit of experimentation, I'm sure you'll master the use of flash quickly.

Once you understand that shutter speeds including and below 1/180s only affect available (non-flash) light and the aperture affects both available and flash light, you'll be fine.

I personally find it easiest to use flash when the camera is in manual mode and perhaps that is a good mode to start with. You can later try other modes as well and see whether they work for you.
11-21-2014, 07:00 PM   #29
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QuoteOriginally posted by Class A Quote
You are welcome.

Just take your time. With a bit of experimentation, I'm sure you'll master the use of flash quickly.

Once you understand that shutter speeds including and below 1/180s only affect available (non-flash) light and the aperture affects both available and flash light, you'll be fine.

I personally find it easiest to use flash when the camera is in manual mode and perhaps that is a good mode to start with. You can later try other modes as well and see whether they work for you.


I'm comfortable with manual, I use it for all the studio shots. This is so much fun!
And I have to thank everyone who has offered me advice and tips. You guys are the tops
maria

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