Thinking of using some work lights, any suggestions?

**RGlasel** · 12-20-2014, 12:56 PM

If you can't use strobes, your next option should be fluorescent bulbs. You will have to pay more for bulbs with greater than 90% coverage of the colour spectrum, but they don't need modifiers to diffuse the light and they are almost as energy efficient as LED (so no heat problems).

bladerunner6 · 12-20-2014, 03:07 PM

Originally posted by DSims

If you're serious about your color, those are all a bad idea - particularly the LEDs. But if you're just playing around on a budget, they may be OK.

LEDs have a notoriously poor color spectrum/response - especially in low-cost, general purpose consumer lights. Halogens are much better, but even there it's preferable to have higher grade ones. And of course they have the potential heat problems others have mentioned.

Agreed - ultimately, strobes are the better value for serious work. But of course your costs to get started are significantly higher. I use these, which are the best value around, IMO Paul C. Buff - Einstein E640 although they also have a less expensive (and less powerful) entry model Paul C. Buff - AlienBees B400.

Even $225 is beyond my budget for this gear. Especially since I am planning on using money I am getting in rebates from this store that I can only use at this store. What I also found by going to the store was this:

http://www.menards.com/main/search.html?search=370-3833

And it is only $90 in the store.

I am in no big rush to buy this stuff, I am just exploring options for dirt cheap lighting in a home studio.

DSims · 12-21-2014, 01:33 AM

Originally posted by RGlasel

If you can't use strobes, your next option should be fluorescent bulbs. You will have to pay more for bulbs with greater than 90% coverage of the colour spectrum, but they don't need modifiers to diffuse the light and they are almost as energy efficient as LED (so no heat problems).

This is true. B&H has a pretty good selection, for example, and some of them are specifically made for photography.

**clackers** · 12-21-2014, 04:13 AM

It's possible to get pretty good soft LED lights these days with a switch or modifier for daylight and tungsten outputs, but remember they're pretty weak. They'll have to be very close to the subject.

adwb · 12-21-2014, 05:17 AM

Work lights have dimpled insides and give a word cast shine on a plain wall and you will see what I mean

bmw · 12-22-2014, 06:43 PM

Just to play devil's advocate here for one second: work lights are hard to work with for all the reasons given above -- heat most of all -- but in fact lots of budding videographers use them all the time and they can be used if you are willing to get creative. After all, light is light, no matter how expensive the source.

Since you can't put them in softboxes or attach diffusers to them, the trick is to reflect the light. Eg point up and bounce off a white ceiling, or behind off a white wall. Or you can do what I did one time for a fashion shoot and point them at a cheap silver reflector mounted up on a light stand.

Check out these shots ...

All done using a forty dollar 500 watt work light with two 250 watt heads. I pointed one at the silver reflector, the other at a silver umbrella (they were what I had) both mounted on inexpensive stands. I adjusted the angles until I got the light aimed at the model, then started shooting. I shot a grey card to use later in post for WB correction.

Note that the colours in the shots have been adjusted in post for a fashion look, and there was daylight from the store windows coming into the set at 90 degrees from where I was shooting so there was significant blue tinges in reflective surfaces (which I didn't mind as it added to the effect).

So if your budget can only handle two-digit numbers, don't let 'em tell you it can't be done.

bladerunner6 · 12-22-2014, 06:49 PM

Originally posted by bmw

Just to play devil's advocate here for one second: work lights are hard to work with for all the reasons given above -- heat most of all -- but in fact lots of budding videographers use them all the time and they can be used if you are willing to get creative. After all, light is light, no matter how expensive the source.

Since you can't put them in softboxes or attach diffusers to them, the trick is to reflect the light. Eg point up and bounce off a white ceiling, or behind off a white wall. Or you can do what I did one time for a fashion shoot and point them at a cheap silver reflector mounted up on a light stand.

Check out these shots ...

All done using a forty dollar 500 watt work light with two 250 watt heads. I pointed one at the silver reflector, the other at a silver umbrella (they were what I had) both mounted on inexpensive stands. I adjusted the angles until I got the light aimed at the model, then started shooting. I shot a grey card to use later in post for WB correction.

Note that the colours in the shots have been adjusted in post for a fashion look, and there was daylight from the store windows coming into the set at 90 degrees from where I was shooting so there was significant blue tinges in reflective surfaces (which I didn't mind as it added to the effect).

So if your budget can only handle two-digit numbers, don't let 'em tell you it can't be done.

Nice work and thanks for the ideas.

Colbyt · 12-23-2014, 06:07 AM

Originally posted by bladerunner6

I am thinking of getting some of those cheap halogen work lights. I also was looking at LED lights

Among my thoughts for LED lights were these:

http://www.menards.com/main/p-2398315-c-7546.htm

http://www.menards.com/main/p-2404411-c-7914.htm

Also, I was thinking of these halogen with different bulbs:

http://www.menards.com/main/p-2305264-c-7914.htm

http://www.menards.com/main/p-2305284-c-7546.htm

Any thoughts on any of these and what sort of bulb I might use with them to give a better temperature of light for photo work?

Thanks.

I own your last choice. I use it as a painting light. Quite harsh and very hot. Will warm a small room very quickly.

Unless you need the rugged case (the bulbs are still very fragile when hot) why would you not consider using a 5500K CFL bulb screwed into one of these cheap fixtures Shop Bayco 150-Watt Incandescent Portable Work Light at Lowes.com

Also I bought a couple of 24" table top tripods 5500K CFL stands and bulbs for less than $30 on Ebay. I combined those with some homemade screens built from cheap muslin and PVC pipe for a softer light (can upload some pics of the screens.

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12-20-2014, 12:56 PM	#16
RGlasel Site Supporter Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Saskatoon Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 3,228	If you can't use strobes, your next option should be fluorescent bulbs. You will have to pay more for bulbs with greater than 90% coverage of the colour spectrum, but they don't need modifiers to diffuse the light and they are almost as energy efficient as LED (so no heat problems).

12-20-2014, 03:07 PM	#17
bladerunner6 Pentaxian Join Date: Nov 2014 Photos: Albums Posts: 2,080 Original Poster	Originally posted by DSims If you're serious about your color, those are all a bad idea - particularly the LEDs. But if you're just playing around on a budget, they may be OK. LEDs have a notoriously poor color spectrum/response - especially in low-cost, general purpose consumer lights. Halogens are much better, but even there it's preferable to have higher grade ones. And of course they have the potential heat problems others have mentioned. Agreed - ultimately, strobes are the better value for serious work. But of course your costs to get started are significantly higher. I use these, which are the best value around, IMO Paul C. Buff - Einstein E640 although they also have a less expensive (and less powerful) entry model Paul C. Buff - AlienBees B400. Even $225 is beyond my budget for this gear. Especially since I am planning on using money I am getting in rebates from this store that I can only use at this store. What I also found by going to the store was this: http://www.menards.com/main/search.html?search=370-3833 And it is only $90 in the store. I am in no big rush to buy this stuff, I am just exploring options for dirt cheap lighting in a home studio.

12-21-2014, 01:33 AM	#18
DSims Veteran Member Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Southern California Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 3,236	Originally posted by RGlasel If you can't use strobes, your next option should be fluorescent bulbs. You will have to pay more for bulbs with greater than 90% coverage of the colour spectrum, but they don't need modifiers to diffuse the light and they are almost as energy efficient as LED (so no heat problems). This is true. B&H has a pretty good selection, for example, and some of them are specifically made for photography.

12-21-2014, 04:13 AM	#19
clackers Otis Memorial Pentaxian Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: Melbourne Photos: Albums Posts: 16,397	It's possible to get pretty good soft LED lights these days with a switch or modifier for daylight and tungsten outputs, but remember they're pretty weak. They'll have to be very close to the subject.

12-21-2014, 05:17 AM	#20
adwb Veteran Member Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Bristol UK Photos: Gallery Posts: 1,636	Work lights have dimpled insides and give a word cast shine on a plain wall and you will see what I mean

12-22-2014, 06:43 PM	#21
bmw Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Mississauga Photos: Albums Posts: 212	Just to play devil's advocate here for one second: work lights are hard to work with for all the reasons given above -- heat most of all -- but in fact lots of budding videographers use them all the time and they can be used if you are willing to get creative. After all, light is light, no matter how expensive the source. Since you can't put them in softboxes or attach diffusers to them, the trick is to reflect the light. Eg point up and bounce off a white ceiling, or behind off a white wall. Or you can do what I did one time for a fashion shoot and point them at a cheap silver reflector mounted up on a light stand. Check out these shots ... All done using a forty dollar 500 watt work light with two 250 watt heads. I pointed one at the silver reflector, the other at a silver umbrella (they were what I had) both mounted on inexpensive stands. I adjusted the angles until I got the light aimed at the model, then started shooting. I shot a grey card to use later in post for WB correction. Note that the colours in the shots have been adjusted in post for a fashion look, and there was daylight from the store windows coming into the set at 90 degrees from where I was shooting so there was significant blue tinges in reflective surfaces (which I didn't mind as it added to the effect). So if your budget can only handle two-digit numbers, don't let 'em tell you it can't be done.

12-22-2014, 06:49 PM	#22
bladerunner6 Pentaxian Join Date: Nov 2014 Photos: Albums Posts: 2,080 Original Poster	Originally posted by bmw Just to play devil's advocate here for one second: work lights are hard to work with for all the reasons given above -- heat most of all -- but in fact lots of budding videographers use them all the time and they can be used if you are willing to get creative. After all, light is light, no matter how expensive the source. Since you can't put them in softboxes or attach diffusers to them, the trick is to reflect the light. Eg point up and bounce off a white ceiling, or behind off a white wall. Or you can do what I did one time for a fashion shoot and point them at a cheap silver reflector mounted up on a light stand. Check out these shots ... All done using a forty dollar 500 watt work light with two 250 watt heads. I pointed one at the silver reflector, the other at a silver umbrella (they were what I had) both mounted on inexpensive stands. I adjusted the angles until I got the light aimed at the model, then started shooting. I shot a grey card to use later in post for WB correction. Note that the colours in the shots have been adjusted in post for a fashion look, and there was daylight from the store windows coming into the set at 90 degrees from where I was shooting so there was significant blue tinges in reflective surfaces (which I didn't mind as it added to the effect). So if your budget can only handle two-digit numbers, don't let 'em tell you it can't be done. Nice work and thanks for the ideas.

12-23-2014, 06:07 AM	#23
Colbyt Veteran Member Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Central Kentucky Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 1,417	Originally posted by bladerunner6 I am thinking of getting some of those cheap halogen work lights. I also was looking at LED lights Among my thoughts for LED lights were these: http://www.menards.com/main/p-2398315-c-7546.htm http://www.menards.com/main/p-2404411-c-7914.htm Also, I was thinking of these halogen with different bulbs: http://www.menards.com/main/p-2305264-c-7914.htm http://www.menards.com/main/p-2305284-c-7546.htm Any thoughts on any of these and what sort of bulb I might use with them to give a better temperature of light for photo work? Thanks. I own your last choice. I use it as a painting light. Quite harsh and very hot. Will warm a small room very quickly. Unless you need the rugged case (the bulbs are still very fragile when hot) why would you not consider using a 5500K CFL bulb screwed into one of these cheap fixtures Shop Bayco 150-Watt Incandescent Portable Work Light at Lowes.com Also I bought a couple of 24" table top tripods 5500K CFL stands and bulbs for less than $30 on Ebay. I combined those with some homemade screens built from cheap muslin and PVC pipe for a softer light (can upload some pics of the screens.