[Flugelbinder]

I understand that, when bouncing an 'on-camera' flash, one should zoom in, if the head gives that possibility. My question is, if the flash does not zoom, will a "black foamie thingy" achieve the desired effect?
Thank you in advance.

Paul

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Last edited by Flugelbinder; 02-24-2015 at 11:00 AM.

[JimC1101]

Well, on board does not allow you to bounce but there are ways you can help make it less than a "deer in the headlight" look. I am not sure what you mean by "black foamy thingy", but I think maybe you are thinking of a diffuser. There are diffusers you can purchase, Gary Fong product comes to mind. There is also a quick and easy way to use a diffuser that works fairly well. Use bubble wrap with clear tape and create a little envelope to slide over your flash. Then you can put it on and take it off quite easily and it will give you a less harsh look in your pics. Also, make sure to reduce flash exposure compensation so that you don't get overblown highlights. I usually reduce by -1 and see how it looks.

[Flugelbinder]

I guess I didn't explain exactly what I meant... On camera, but an external flash, swivelled or tilted, and bounced of a wall...

[MPrince]

I am not sure what you mean by "black foamy thingy",

http://neilvn.com/tangents/about/black-foamie-thing/

[mrNewt]

http://neilvn.com/tangents/about/black-foamie-thing/

That's actually a thing!? Well I did learn something today...

[atupdate]

Anything that helps direct the light will be helpful. I use one of these DIY diffusers and love it.

DIY Reflector-Diffuser

Examples using the diffuser with my Sigma EF 500 DG Super flash.










Tim

[sterretje]

I understand that, when bouncing an 'on-camera' flash, one should zoom in

One does not have to zoom in. The reason that you might want to zoom in is to compensate (a bit) for the loss of light due to the bounce; after all, the light is more diffused and hence not as 'strong' when it reaches the subject. So at bigger subject distance you might not have enough light to properly expose the subject; you can open your aperture more to compensate or zoom the flash head (if possible) to concentrate the light that leaves the flash more.

[Flugelbinder]

One does not have to zoom in. The reason that you might want to zoom in is to compensate (a bit) for the loss of light due to the bounce; after all, the light is more diffused and hence not as 'strong' when it reaches the subject. So at bigger subject distance you might not have enough light to properly expose the subject; you can open your aperture more to compensate or zoom the flash head (if possible) to concentrate the light that leaves the flash more.

Thank you for understanding my question.
The reason I'm asking is that I've found a pretty inexpensive unit, with great reviews, but it doesn't zoom. Will a Flashbender (or something alike) may be a workaround that?

[MPrince]

Thank you for understanding my question.
The reason I'm asking is that I've found a pretty inexpensive unit, with great reviews, but it doesn't zoom. Will a Flashbender (or something alike) may be a workaround that?

You can always use the black foamie thing as a snoot and vary the opening to help control and direct the light.

[sterretje]

How do you want to use the FlashBender? To diffuse (like the black foamie thingy) or to concentrate the light (like a zoom head)? From the opening question, I assume the latter and I'm not sure if it's the right way to go; you might not be able to correctly expose the full picture and it might look like a person on a podium in the spotlight and the rest being dark(er); I've never experimented with it.

Metz states in (some of) their manuals the below formula as a guide line:

aperture = guide number / (light distance * 2)

Based on the guide number of 'your' unit, you can determine if it's powerful enough. E.g. an average ceiling is 2.5 meters high, guide number is 25 meters so required aperture is 5 (probably 2.8 as you bounce under an angle and not straight up)

I often flash outdoors (the sky is the ceiling) and in that case I find the FlashBender very useful. It's also useful if the bounce surface is colored as that would cause a color cast (that you might need to fix in post processing).

I have used a Metz 45 CT-1 (gn 45 meters, no zoom head) for years and never ran out of power when bouncing indoors; don't forget that you can also increase the ISO to compensate for light loss due to bounce (if needed).

[Flugelbinder]

How do you want to use the FlashBender? To diffuse (like the black foamie thingy) or to concentrate the light (like a zoom head)? From the opening question, I assume the latter and I'm not sure if it's the right way to go; you might not be able to correctly expose the full picture and it might look like a person on a podium in the spotlight and the rest being dark(er); I've never experimented with it.

Metz states in (some of) their manuals the below formula as a guide line:

aperture = guide number / (light distance * 2)

Based on the guide number of 'your' unit, you can determine if it's powerful enough. E.g. an average ceiling is 2.5 meters high, guide number is 25 meters so required aperture is 5 (probably 2.8 as you bounce under an angle and not straight up)

I often flash outdoors (the sky is the ceiling) and in that case I find the FlashBender very useful. It's also useful if the bounce surface is colored as that would cause a color cast (that you might need to fix in post processing).

I have used a Metz 45 CT-1 (gn 45 meters, no zoom head) for years and never ran out of power when bouncing indoors; don't forget that you can also increase the ISO to compensate for light loss due to bounce (if needed).

Very informative, thank you.
This unit has a gn of 38 at ISO 100, so I assume it will be enough for bouncing of walls?

[geru2000]

You'll have no trouble bouncing that flash off walls or ceilings. Bouncing flash doesn't rely on zoom the idea of bouncing is to provide a large source of light thereby diffusing it.



The black foamy thing is nothing more than a bounce card being black it will absorb light which will help from blinding the person standing beside you.

When bouncing flash it is much more important to chose a bounce direction to bring the light to the subject. Once mastered you can create shadows very much like softboxes.

[savoche]

Very informative, thank you.
This unit has a gn of 38 at ISO 100, so I assume it will be enough for bouncing of walls?

It will work as long as the distance isn't too great. As sterretje says you can always increase ISO to compensate for lack of power.

I've made myself a spreadsheet to help calculate the distance for my Metz in manual (inspired by other users here). Not having a zoom head will make a lot less complicated, though

[phoned]

FWIW I disable the zoom when I bounce, as it seems to provide more juice and be more accurate and predictable. Canon also seems to disable zoom soon as you adjust the head at all, locking it in at either 24mm or 35mm (I can't remember which).

[skyoftexas]

I understand that, when bouncing an 'on-camera' flash, one should zoom in, if the head gives that possibility. My question is, if the flash does not zoom, will a "black foamie thingy" achieve the desired effect?
Thank you in advance.

Paul

A good question. Thanks for asking it.