[UserAccessDenied]

I recently purchased a Yongnuo 560 IV from Amazon and it arrived defective... It literally got one single flash off at 1/128 power and died on me.

Anyways, now I'm re-addressing my flash needs.

The Yongnuo when used with my Macro setup was casting a shadow due to the extension and lens, therefore I'm now looking back at ring-flash/ring-LED options.

Anyone heard of the Aputure ring flash?

The one I've listed below is sold for Nikon, but aren't these all compatible with all DSLRs? It will just be manual only correct?

http://www.amazon.com/Aputure-Amaran-AHL-H100-Flash-Cameras/dp/B00H2DEU5E/re...ash+for+pentax

Just want to make sure it will mount and work with my K-30 before purchasing it and having to go through the return process again


Thanks for the help!

[LensBeginner]

I would use a flash mounted on the hotshoe only if strictly necessary.
Consider using a trigger and taking the flash off-camera.
A ringflash becomes boring after a while, it's kind of a one-trick pony...

[UserAccessDenied]

I would use a flash mounted on the hotshoe only if strictly necessary.
Consider using a trigger and taking the flash off-camera.
A ringflash becomes boring after a while, it's kind of a one-trick pony...

Would you consider repurchasing the Yongnuo 560 IV?
I really don't want to spend more than $100...

Maybe get a small trigger for the Yongnuo hoping that neither are defective next time?

[LensBeginner]

I have a mkIII, best purchase I ever made.
Amazon's policy is hassle-free, so yes.
If you buy a 560TX then you only need a mkIII, the only difference being that the mkIV can act as a trigger.
YMMV of course.

[UserAccessDenied]

I have a mkIII, best purchase I ever made.
Amazon's policy is hassle-free, so yes.
If you buy a 560TX then you only need a mkIII, the only difference being that the mkIV can act as a trigger.
YMMV of course.

560tx seemed kinda big for just a trigger?
Have you tried the 603c?

It's simple buy smaller and cheaper, lol.

The 560IV was the same cost as the mkIII online, maybe I'll get two mkIVs and have some variablitiy?


Thanks for the advice!
I know everyone says to avoid the ringLEDs, but I am very intrigued by them. I wish I had a friend with one so I could just play around with it for the day

[LensBeginner]

You could also buy a mkIII and a mkIV, no sense in buying two mkIV imho, since you can use just one at a time as a trigger.
Yes the 603 is also feasible, but with the tx you have unmatched control when you decide to expand your setup (multiple flashes, groups, etc.), plus you change settings on the transmitter, not on the flash (useful when it's far away).
MkIV does the same thing as a trigger, but interface is more cramped than the tx.

[UserAccessDenied]

You could also buy a mkIII and a mkIV, no sense in buying two mkIV imho, since you can use just one at a time as a trigger.
Yes the 603 is also feasible, but with the tx you have unmatched control when you decide to expand your setup (multiple flashes, groups, etc.)

Did you buy off Amazon?
I'm worried about receiving another LEMON!

It's been a two week process returning this one for money back just to purchase it again...
Maybe I'll try another site?

[LensBeginner]

Amazon dot it, yes.

[RKKS08]

@UserAccessDenied

I know everyone says to avoid the ringLEDs, but I am very intrigued by them. I wish I had a friend with one so I could just play around with it for the day

I own and occasionally use the Meike FC-100. It seems to be offered also branded differently. I hear it was now modified and uses more LEDs, so my experience may not fully apply to the actual version.

It is quite usable for many purposes, but its restrictions may render it unusable for other purposes.
Its restrictions in short:

1. Despite the specification (GN 15), I measured a guide number of only 8. In most cases, this will be quite enough for macro work. However, GN 8 is the maximum, achieved only with exposure times as long as or longer than the flash time.
2. The flash time is fixed at 1/10 of a second, the specs tell 1/100 s. This means, you cannot freeze moving objects by flash time.
3. In most cases, freezing movements by using shorter exposure times will also not help. Using exposure times shorter than 1/10 s further reduces the amount of light. The resulting smaller guide number could now be too small even for macro work.

You may also have a look at post #10 of the thread https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/177-macro-photography/287652-ring-lights.html#post3139574
This post offers two more lnks to the subject.

[bluestringer]

You can't beat a ring flash for macro. You will love it. Here you go, one of the best.....and a module....

https://www.keh.com/249516/sunpak-dx-8r-ringlight-52-flash


https://www.keh.com/251747/sunpak-module-mx-2d-minolta-x570-600-700-xd-ser-leica-r4-mot

[UserAccessDenied]

You can't beat a ring flash for macro. You will love it. Here you go, one of the best.....and a module....

https://www.keh.com/249516/sunpak-dx-8r-ringlight-52-flash


https://www.keh.com/251747/sunpak-module-mx-2d-minolta-x570-600-700-xd-ser-leica-r4-mot

Sorry for my ignorance...

Why is this better than the LED ones and what's the module do?
Is that the power source?

Sorry again, I'm new to all of this.

[bluestringer]

Sorry for my ignorance...

Why is this better than the LED ones and what's the module do?
Is that the power source?

Sorry again, I'm new to all of this.

A flash can stop motion, great for those flitty insects and wind. It only takes a small amount of wind to ruin a macro shot by causing motion blur. Also with macro your own small movements can blur the image. Could just be me in my old age, but I can't hold a camera steady anymore, and macro just makes it worse. And this ring flash also has power settings to help get the right amount of light on the subject.

The module is what connects the flash to the camera. They are dedicated for each brand of camera, but because it's an older flash and will only be used manual you can use any dedicated camera module. I use the one for a Nikon. The flash does have auto setting though that are controlled by a thyristor.

I assume an LED type would work fine also, I've never used one. But in a controlled studio with the camera on a tripod and with a non moving subject I guess it would work fine. Most of my macros are done in the field, handheld, so a flash works best for me.

[UserAccessDenied]

A flash can stop motion, great for those flitty insects and wind. It only takes a small amount of wind to ruin a macro shot by causing motion blur. Also with macro your own small movements can blur the image. Could just be me in my old age, but I can't hold a camera steady anymore, and macro just makes it worse. And this ring flash also has power settings to help get the right amount of light on the subject.

The module is what connects the flash to the camera. They are dedicated for each brand of camera, but because it's an older flash and will only be used manual you can use any dedicated camera module. I use the one for a Nikon. The flash does have auto setting though that are controlled by a thyristor.

Gotcha...
And though it's a legacy flash it's trigger voltage is low enough for my K-30?

I've read it's only about 1.85V... That seems low?


Thank you for all the help!

[sterretje]

I've read it's only about 1.85V... That seems low?

1.85V is low, 18.5V is probably safe and 185V is high; not sure if 1.85V was a typo.

[UserAccessDenied]

1.85V is low, 18.5V is probably safe and 185V is high; not sure if 1.85V was a typo.

Just found more posts that the DX-8R is roughly 6-8V...

I cannot find any info anywhere on the safe max trigger voltage for the K-30 hotshoe. ?


Pentax just says "use pentax flashes..." lol