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08-14-2015, 03:26 PM   #1
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K5, YN560 IV, RF 603N II's

Hey, I have the original Pentax K5. I had the Yongnuo 560 IV speedlight for a while. Just picked up a set of the RF 603N II today.

I put fresh batteries (Eneloops) into the speedlight, and new batteries as well for both of the triggers.

I set both of the triggers to channel 1. I took one of the triggers, set it to TX mode and put it on the hot shoe of my camera.

I took the other trigger, also on channel 1, put in TRX mode and put it on the speedlight.

Speedlight is in RX mode on channel 1, group A. Advanced settings have also been adjusted so that it is supporting the RF603.

The triggers do light up when I press the buttons on them but don't do anything else, I don't see a blue LED light on the speedlight.

I've Googled for about an hour but I couldn't find a solution. It just won't fire.


EDIT: Works now. Issue was with the camera. The shutter speed was past the maximum sync speed (1/180). Just stopped down a bit and works fine now. Keeping this thread here in the future when someone might have the same issue.


Last edited by matt_lin18; 08-14-2015 at 03:41 PM.
08-14-2015, 04:55 PM   #2
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QuoteOriginally posted by matt_lin18 Quote
Hey, I have the original Pentax K5. I had the Yongnuo 560 IV speedlight for a while. Just picked up a set of the RF 603N II today.

I put fresh batteries (Eneloops) into the speedlight, and new batteries as well for both of the triggers.

I set both of the triggers to channel 1. I took one of the triggers, set it to TX mode and put it on the hot shoe of my camera.

I took the other trigger, also on channel 1, put in TRX mode and put it on the speedlight.

Speedlight is in RX mode on channel 1, group A. Advanced settings have also been adjusted so that it is supporting the RF603.

The triggers do light up when I press the buttons on them but don't do anything else, I don't see a blue LED light on the speedlight.

I've Googled for about an hour but I couldn't find a solution. It just won't fire.


EDIT: Works now. Issue was with the camera. The shutter speed was past the maximum sync speed (1/180). Just stopped down a bit and works fine now. Keeping this thread here in the future when someone might have the same issue.
Do you need the second RF 603N II? The YN560 IV has built in receiver and transmitter (handling even flash groups) as well. Is there any advantage to use an "extra" flash trigger?
08-14-2015, 10:03 PM   #3
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QuoteOriginally posted by matt_lin18 Quote
Hey, I have the original Pentax K5. I had the Yongnuo 560 IV speedlight for a while. Just picked up a set of the RF 603N II today.

I put fresh batteries (Eneloops) into the speedlight, and new batteries as well for both of the triggers.

I set both of the triggers to channel 1. I took one of the triggers, set it to TX mode and put it on the hot shoe of my camera.

I took the other trigger, also on channel 1, put in TRX mode and put it on the speedlight.

Speedlight is in RX mode on channel 1, group A. Advanced settings have also been adjusted so that it is supporting the RF603.

The triggers do light up when I press the buttons on them but don't do anything else, I don't see a blue LED light on the speedlight.

I've Googled for about an hour but I couldn't find a solution. It just won't fire.


EDIT: Works now. Issue was with the camera. The shutter speed was past the maximum sync speed (1/180). Just stopped down a bit and works fine now. Keeping this thread here in the future when someone might have the same issue.
As already pointed out, the YN650IV (and 560III) have built in receivers. Keep your second RF603N II as a spare.

Better yet, get a YN560 TX and remotely control power & zoom from camera and keep both 603N II's as spares or use them to trigger other brand manual flashes and/or monolights.
08-15-2015, 12:01 AM   #4
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Yeah it doesn't need the second RF on the speed light. The III and IV have the built in receivers and you just need one of the RFs on the camera.

08-15-2015, 01:02 AM   #5
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QuoteOriginally posted by matt_lin18 Quote


EDIT: Works now. Issue was with the camera. The shutter speed was past the maximum sync speed (1/180). Just stopped down a bit and works fine now. Keeping this thread here in the future when someone might have the same issue.
Yeah, you've lost HSS by going manual.
08-15-2015, 06:46 AM   #6
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QuoteOriginally posted by clackers Quote
Yeah, you've lost HSS by going manual.
There is no HSS mode on YN 560 IV's or III's. There are very few non Pentax HSS hot shoe flash options. And exactly one 3rd party mono light option that's about 2K. As much as I like and rely on my Pentax gear, I envy Canon and Nikon users all the wireless and HSS options they can choose from.

When one of my Pentax 540's died of natural causes, I didn't replace it. Instead I carry 3 YN560 III's and a YN 560TX which allows me to remotely control power & zoom from camera. Their total cost was about the same as one used Pentax 540. Using two or three lights in a head shot session, being able to quickly change lighting ratios from camera is a huge time saver. And you don't look a clown climbing up on conference room chairs to get at the back of flash pointed down. And if one dies of natural or unnatural causes, it's about $66 from B&H to replace for the same flash power as the 540.

If I want to use a wide aperture for shallow DoF outdoors, I simply add a 3 stop ND filter and gang two 560IIIs together.
08-15-2015, 06:29 PM   #7
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QuoteOriginally posted by clackers Quote
Yeah, you've lost HSS by going manual.
Ah, I don't really need that as if I'm using a flash, I'm in a low light situation anyway. Also, I've been playing around with the flash with a bit indoors. Why does 1/8s, ISO 1600, f/2.8 look the same as 1/160s, ISO 1600, f/2.8? I am using the flash on camera, at around 1/16th power I believe with some plastic diffuser on it.

I'm shooting in manual and the only exposure setting I'm changing is the shutter speed from 1/8s to 1/160s. Everything else stays the same. The 1/8th might be a tad more exposed than the 1/160th but really looks the same.
08-15-2015, 07:09 PM - 1 Like   #8
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QuoteOriginally posted by matt_lin18 Quote
Why does 1/8s, ISO 1600, f/2.8 look the same as 1/160s, ISO 1600, f/2.8?
Because the flash is over so fast, Matt- IIRC, of the order of 1/10000s, - whatever *you* do to the shutter speed in that range is irrelevant. It's already done its stuff.

Change the aperture or ISO by a stop though and you'll notice the flash is affected.


Last edited by clackers; 08-15-2015 at 07:20 PM.
08-15-2015, 07:10 PM - 1 Like   #9
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QuoteOriginally posted by matt_lin18 Quote
Ah, I don't really need that as if I'm using a flash, I'm in a low light situation anyway. Also, I've been playing around with the flash with a bit indoors. Why does 1/8s, ISO 1600, f/2.8 look the same as 1/160s, ISO 1600, f/2.8? I am using the flash on camera, at around 1/16th power I believe with some plastic diffuser on it.

I'm shooting in manual and the only exposure setting I'm changing is the shutter speed from 1/8s to 1/160s. Everything else stays the same. The 1/8th might be a tad more exposed than the 1/160th but really looks the same.
Probably because there's not much ambient light, the flash is lighting up what the camera can see of the room and the difference between 1/8 sec ( .125 sec) and 1/160 sec ( .0625) is only 1 stop of ambient.

Last edited by Brooke Meyer; 08-15-2015 at 10:21 PM.
08-15-2015, 10:41 PM   #10
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QuoteOriginally posted by Brooke Meyer Quote
Probably because there's not much ambient light, the flash is lighting up what the camera can see of the room and the difference between 1/8 sec ( .125 sec) and 1/160 sec ( .0625) is only 1 stop of ambient.
QuoteOriginally posted by clackers Quote
Because the flash is over so fast, Matt- IIRC, of the order of 1/10000s, - whatever *you* do to the shutter speed in that range is irrelevant. It's already done its stuff.

Change the aperture or ISO by a stop though and you'll notice the flash is affected.

Ah okay, thanks for the answers!
08-17-2015, 12:15 AM   #11
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QuoteOriginally posted by Brooke Meyer Quote
There is no HSS mode on YN 560 IV's or III's. There are very few non Pentax HSS hot shoe flash options. And exactly one 3rd party mono light option that's about 2K. As much as I like and rely on my Pentax gear, I envy Canon and Nikon users all the wireless and HSS options they can choose from.

When one of my Pentax 540's died of natural causes, I didn't replace it. Instead I carry 3 YN560 III's and a YN 560TX which allows me to remotely control power & zoom from camera. Their total cost was about the same as one used Pentax 540. Using two or three lights in a head shot session, being able to quickly change lighting ratios from camera is a huge time saver. And you don't look a clown climbing up on conference room chairs to get at the back of flash pointed down. And if one dies of natural or unnatural causes, it's about $66 from B&H to replace for the same flash power as the 540.

If I want to use a wide aperture for shallow DoF outdoors, I simply add a 3 stop ND filter and gang two 560IIIs together.
Hi, as I am new in flashes and has a particular project please:
Is there possibility for faster shutter speed than 1/180? (I work with movement)
What is HSS?
Can you suggest me cheap, but powerful system with optimally 3 flashes? I can expose manually, but at least one flash needs to be fairly strong - its for outdoor.
Thanks.
08-17-2015, 12:20 AM - 1 Like   #12
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QuoteOriginally posted by em-tx Quote
Hi, as I am new in flashes and has a particular project please:
Is there possibility for faster shutter speed than 1/180? (I work with movement)
What is HSS?
Em, the method on Pentax of flash with very high shutter speeds is called HSS.

Those kinds of flashes are not Yongnuo-level cheap, though.

Forum member Mcgregni has written a guide you'll like on the flash system.

Last edited by clackers; 08-17-2015 at 12:48 AM.
08-17-2015, 12:45 PM   #13
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QuoteOriginally posted by em-tx Quote
Hi, as I am new in flashes and has a particular project please:
Is there possibility for faster shutter speed than 1/180? (I work with movement)
What is HSS?
Can you suggest me cheap, but powerful system with optimally 3 flashes? I can expose manually, but at least one flash needs to be fairly strong - its for outdoor.
Thanks.
Flash, whether flash or monolight or powerpack, will stop motion, shutter doesn't matter. You don't have to have HSS to stop motion. There are some high end commercial folks will use 2K monolights with HSS capability for outdoor shoots to absolutely stop motion of dancers and use shallow DoF. And there are some folks who gang together HSS flashes, compensating for the power loss, to do roughly the same thing but its pricey.

I can do a lot with 3 YN560 III's and the remote power & zoom control. If I need more power, I'd use one my monolights with a battery pack. I'm a big fan of Paul Buff gear
08-17-2015, 08:40 PM   #14
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OK... HSS - I have two options as stated by Brooke there is a 2K option PrioLite... works great... but expensive... there is a cheaper option but you need an HSS Pentax capable flash in order to do it... one of these should do the trick... Pentax AF360FGZ, AF540FGZ, Metz 48 AF-1, 50 AF-1, and 58 AF-1/AF-2, Sigma Super DG's 530/610, & Tumax DPT5 series - (there is probably a few others but they are variations of the Tumax) -- I personally would go with the Pentax AF 360FGZ or AF540FGZ... once you have one of the flashes this one becomes your master... then you pick-up these little jewels... Aokatec wireless TTL trigger & receiver ... once you have these guys you can Sync it with any flash or strobe that will handle HSS speeds... The Paul C Buff stuff should be able to handle 1/300 on the 1600watt - 1/600 on the 800watt - 1/2000 on the 300watt the einstein's will handle 1/2000 ...


I have been playing with this for my 645D both solutions work...
08-17-2015, 11:49 PM   #15
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QuoteOriginally posted by tc95 Quote
OK... HSS - I have two options as stated by Brooke there is a 2K option PrioLite... works great... but expensive... there is a cheaper option but you need an HSS Pentax capable flash in order to do it... one of these should do the trick... Pentax AF360FGZ, AF540FGZ, Metz 48 AF-1, 50 AF-1, and 58 AF-1/AF-2, Sigma Super DG's 530/610, & Tumax DPT5 series - (there is probably a few others but they are variations of the Tumax) -- I personally would go with the Pentax AF 360FGZ or AF540FGZ... once you have one of the flashes this one becomes your master... then you pick-up these little jewels... Aokatec wireless TTL trigger & receiver ... once you have these guys you can Sync it with any flash or strobe that will handle HSS speeds... The Paul C Buff stuff should be able to handle 1/300 on the 1600watt - 1/600 on the 800watt - 1/2000 on the 300watt the einstein's will handle 1/2000 ...


I have been playing with this for my 645D both solutions work...
I wish you hadn't mentioned the Aokataec triggers & HSS.

Don't care about P-TTL, my cameras come out of the box, get set to M and stay there. Was using a pair of Pentax 540's for events, sometimes P-TTL but flagged and bounced. Only used HSS in brilliant sun for fill to keep blue sky. Had a 540 die, haven't replaced, now use YN560 III's with YN 560 TX for remote power & zoom control. ND filter gets me wide aperture outside. And YN 603N II's work with monolights & 540 if needed.

But I can't completely stop dancers with AB's, need an Einstein. HSS is even better for outdoors for shallow DoF but I'm not going the Priolite route. And my local shop just started 645Z rental so since I have 645 glass and plenty of batteries from my K5's and a 540 left, I'm pretty sure I'll end up with a pair of Aokatecs. Would like to hear and see more from you about HSS & 645 & monolights.
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