[ivanvernon]

My 360FGZ has a problem. No matter which mode (M, P-TTL, or A) is set, the zoom value displayed stays at M.Zoom and a setting of 20mm. The zoom button when pressed will not change the displayed values from M.Zoom and 20mm. The other zoom button function (changing channels: 1,2,3,4) does work. The M.Zoom 20 mm display indication does not change whether mounted on my MZ-S camera or one of the newer filmless cameras (K-3, K-5II, etc.) The M.Zoom 20mm display indication does not change when using any camera of several cameras tried regardless of which lens is mounted on the camera, whereas my other 360FGZ does change accurately to correspond to the zoom lens setting when I adjust focal length (on the FA 24-90, for example).

The unit is not totally worthless because (at least on the filmless cameras) you can set the 360FGZ to manual mode and keep adjusting power level output (1/2, 1/4, 1/8, etc.) to arrive at a setting that works, and then further modify the effect by using the built-in pull-out diffuser and/or an additional diffuser that covers the entire front lens of the unit. All this is possible though hardly worth the trouble since I have other flash units (including a second 360FGZ) that all work as designed.

Any ideas? Obviously, I can just keep this unit or sell it for parts. However, it seems a pity to give up so easily on a 360FGZ, that (contrary to all expectations) has a battery cover and hot foot that aren't yet yet broken!

[CarlJF]

Is the wide angle diffuser out ? It forces the flash to its widest zoom setting... If so, just put it back in its slit to make zoom settings available again.

[ivanvernon]

Is the wide angle diffuser out ? It forces the flash to its widest zoom setting... If so, just put it back in its slit to make zoom settings available again.

Excellent suggestion. I had accidentally left the wide diffuser out, covering the flash lens.

Here is what happened when I pushed the wide angle diffuser into the storage position. The 360FGZ changed display to "A MODE 24mm," So obviously the unit recognizes and responds to the wide angle diffuser position, but fails to respond properly to the positioning change. I tried this a number of times, and each time the display reading becomes either M.Zoom 20 mm OR A.Zoom 24 mm.

Further thoughts are invited.

[CarlJF]

Have you tried cleaning the flash hotshoe pins ? A pencil eraser something makes wonders for this...

[wombat2go]

On the one here, there is a slight and variable delay after each button press before the zoom setting is displayed.
That delay is longest when the motor has to drive it for the longest time from 85mm back to 24mm.
So I surmise that the display is taken from the actual position after the movement.
In that case maybe your motor drive is the problem. The motor is quite audible.
Can you hear it running to each position?

[ivanvernon]

Have you tried cleaning the flash hotshoe pins ? A pencil eraser something makes wonders for this...

Thanks for this tip. I tried it to no effect, but still a nice tip for the tuture.

---------- Post added 11-29-15 at 04:15 PM ----------

On the one here, there is a slight and variable delay after each button press before the zoom setting is displayed.
That delay is longest when the motor has to drive it for the longest time from 85mm back to 24mm.
So I surmise that the display is taken from the actual position after the movement.
In that case maybe your motor drive is the problem. The motor is quite audible.
Can you hear it running to each position?

Thanks for this suggestion. Since the button that changes the focal length setting does not operate to change settings, it is not possible to sense the motor drive sound level or judge anything else about the operation of the motor drive. However, the very fact that one cannot hear the sound of the drive leads me to agree with your suggestion that the motor drive is the problem. Motor drive failure would seem to be consistent with the symptom of invariant focal length settings.

Further to the previous, I might mention that the flash unit, when set up on either of two of my filmless cameras (K-3 and K-5II), seems to be providing perfect or near-perfect exposures in both P-TTL and A modes, suggesting that the unit's circuitry is in some respect operating properly, perhaps just making the necessary changes in light output level to accommodate the invariant focal length settings of 20mm and 24mm respectively. Perfect exposures can also be obtained in M mode by chimping output level (1, 1/2/ 1/4, 1/8, 1/16, etc.), aperture, and ISO settings. These results would seem to be logically consistent with the diagnosis of a failed motor drive.

Thanks for your suggestions, which seem to have led to a correct diagnosis.

[Pavel_Zhelev]

Thanks for this tip. I tried it to no effect, but still a nice tip for the tuture.

---------- Post added 11-29-15 at 04:15 PM ----------



Thanks for this suggestion. Since the button that changes the focal length setting does not operate to change settings, it is not possible to sense the motor drive sound level or judge anything else about the operation of the motor drive. However, the very fact that one cannot hear the sound of the drive leads me to agree with your suggestion that the motor drive is the problem. Motor drive failure would seem to be consistent with the symptom of invariant focal length settings.

Further to the previous, I might mention that the flash unit, when set up on either of two of my filmless cameras (K-3 and K-5II), seems to be providing perfect or near-perfect exposures in both P-TTL and A modes, suggesting that the unit's circuitry is in some respect operating properly, perhaps just making the necessary changes in light output level to accommodate the invariant focal length settings of 20mm and 24mm respectively. Perfect exposures can also be obtained in M mode by chimping output level (1, 1/2/ 1/4, 1/8, 1/16, etc.), aperture, and ISO settings. These results would seem to be logically consistent with the diagnosis of a failed motor drive.

Thanks for your suggestions, which seem to have led to a correct diagnosis.

Hi, there is a tread for fixing the AF-540 which I used to fix mine 360. It was with the similar problem due to a drop the motor got stuck. It is very easy fix and you can see the DIY guide.