Your exposure mode preference for P-TTL flash?

**JimJohnson** · 08-13-2016, 07:56 AM

The scene is an indoor social event where the photographer is capturing candid shots in a moving environment - examples would be wedding receptions, reunions, school dances, etc. Flash is camera mounted in P-TTL mode and might be direct, or more likely a ceiling bounce (with maybe a catch light reflector).

What is your preferred exposure mode? Do you tend to use auto, program, aperture priority or shutter priority, and why?

stevebrot · 08-13-2016, 08:11 AM

How much attention do you want to give to the process? For the cases you describe, priority should be given to shutter speed to avoid ghosting and aperture for adequate DOF. The highest level of control is available in M mode. I would avoid Auto, unless you are willing to let the camera get "creative" on what it thinks you need. I would avoid auto-ISO for the same reason.

Steve

andy888 · 08-13-2016, 08:19 AM

Originally posted by JimJohnson

The scene is an indoor social event where the photographer is capturing candid shots in a moving environment - examples would be wedding receptions, reunions, school dances, etc. Flash is camera mounted in P-TTL mode and might be direct, or more likely a ceiling bounce (with maybe a catch light reflector).

What is your preferred exposure mode? Do you tend to use auto, program, aperture priority or shutter priority, and why?

avoid using flash. flash is anyway a man made light. and spot light. keep the scene as it was.

avoid using flash. flash might scare people, hurt their eyes.

When you have to use it to lip up some part you think you must. Ceiling is first choice.

This make light more like nature.

When you have to shot light to people. try to do as few as possible. so P-TTL.Av, or Pv. that is I prefer.

If possible. remove the trigger light from the camera to reduce light you made to scare people. radio trigger is OK.

For quick capture and miss no important event. Manual is madness.

wowarning · 08-13-2016, 08:33 AM - **2 Likes**

I've never seen an old lady drop dead because a flash went off. Shoot away. I was always annoyed by the amount of variation that there would be between shots when shooting in any type of priority mode. I switched to M - ISO 800, f4.0, 1/125s and they were much better. The final step was taking the flash out of p-ttl and using manual for that too. Takes a little experimenting to dial it in, but once you do your shots are much more consistent when you're taking the majority from roughly the same distance. If you wind up much closer or further away, adjust the flash strength accordingly. Manual is not madness, it is the key to consistent results (for me anyway, with the setup I'm using).

andy888 · 08-13-2016, 08:54 AM

Originally posted by wowarning

I've never seen an old lady drop dead because a flash went off. Shoot away. I was always annoyed by the amount of variation that there would be between shots when shooting in any type of priority mode. I switched to M - ISO 800, f4.0, 1/125s and they were much better. The final step was taking the flash out of p-ttl and using manual for that too. Takes a little experimenting to dial it in, but once you do your shots are much more consistent when you're taking the majority from roughly the same distance. If you wind up much closer or further away, adjust the flash strength accordingly. Manual is not madness, it is the key to consistent results (for me anyway, with the setup I'm using).

Oh. it seems a war might start about manual vs TTL.

Well, flash does make people nervous and pressure feel. any poor girl face a big flash she would nervous about coming big white. yes, I never see one glad to. some would refuse you.

P-TTL does greatly reduce the light you make. that is great and thankful.

More important is not it give good result at the first time .

It is it let you focus on MORE important things. free you from exposure to like observe scene and box it, angle, models , that is most important than the mere exposure.

The variation? I don't care. it is minor if it does exist. We are not scientist with a light meter. OK? I find it would not influence the feel of the picture. the direction and distance is more important that a EV(if it with correct range).

Lets make back a step. using manual to struggle for a exposure are you can make better than the "variant"?
Then why people pay $$$ to get light meter? they are machine too? they are "auto" too?

I do think manual have cases . but no here in these scene.

wowarning · 08-13-2016, 09:21 AM

You are about to be seriously disappointed if you're looking for a war, lol. I simply stated what didn't work for me and what does. A different flash might give different results than mine which is why I said "with the setup I'm using." Seriously though, you've taken flash pictures and left people shaking and scared? The OP didn't mention PTSD dances as one of the possible events, lmao.

Huy · 08-13-2016, 09:45 AM

Put the camera in Manual mode and only set the flash in P-TTL works best for me. Just make sure the camera is under exposed by from 1 to 3 stops by setting low ISO, stopping down or speeding up. The flash will be able to compensate automatically.

It's also good if you bounce the flash too. I almost always bounce the flash off the ceiling or a white wall if possible to make the light softer.

However, keep in mind the subject distance and the maximum GN of your flash though. If the subject is far away, you may consider increasing ISO.

Last edited by Huy; 08-13-2016 at 01:34 PM.

aleonx3 · 08-13-2016, 09:55 AM

As some have already suggested... the greatest degree of control is M mode... set the shutter and aperture then, change ISO and/or EV depending on how much ambient light you need and WB due to flash. For better result, get the new flash (eg. AF360FZG II) with front LED and use bounce flash off ceiling if possible.

Culture · 08-13-2016, 12:04 PM

I have been wondering this same question recently. I was wondering the best setting for a wedding i did using pttl flashes.
I decided to shoot in TAv mode and let the auto ISO float. For most of my shots I saw that the ISO was always maxed out.
I thought that with the flash, the ISO will be on the lower side. So I have decided that with next similar situations I was going to lower the upper side of the auto ISO.

At some point in the event I put my flash into HSS mode and my camera into AV mode. The reason was that I was going in and out of sunny places to low light situations.
With my aperture and ISO constant and shutter speed floating I could get the shoot even if it wasn't perfect, it was close enough.

I believe manual might be the best option. But I dont have enough experience to completely use it yet.

Huy · 08-13-2016, 01:38 PM

Originally posted by Culture

I believe manual might be the best option. But I dont have enough experience to completely use it yet.

Try it if you have a chance. It's pretty easy, especially if your flash is in P-TTL.

mcgregni · 08-13-2016, 02:49 PM

You can try and avoid blinding people by careful bounce angles, backwards, over the shoulder .... And using a flag /flashbender type thing.

Like most here it seems, Manual camera exposure mode is the one I'd recommend, combined with P-TTL flash. It makes balancing ambient and flash exposures simplest, and keeps them independent. . Fix your ISO and aperture as appropriate to the environment and type of image. Use exposure time to control the ambient (background) brightness, and Flash Compensation on the flash unit for the flash brightness.

I totally avoid any auto-ISO, ever, with flash..... Asking for trouble. Like Sv mode, it is really an unintuitive way to vary exposures for flash working I feel ..... Also there are loads of reports from people who have ended up with ruined flash shots because the ISO has gone crazy.

**clackers** · 08-13-2016, 02:53 PM

In various modes, the camera may want to jack the ISO beyond 800 or let the shutter speed fall below 1/200 - not great for pics of drunken people who can't hold absolutely still. 😀 M mode solves this - take charge!

**Des** · 08-13-2016, 06:21 PM

Originally posted by clackers

In various modes, the camera may want to jack the ISO beyond 800 or let the shutter speed fall below 1/200 - not great for pics of drunken people who can't hold absolutely still. �� M mode solves this - take charge!

What about X-mode for that situation, @Clackers? As far as I can tell, it's like M but with the shutter speed locked at maximum (non-HSS) shutter speed (1/180th on the K-3, I guess it's 1/200th on the K-1).

**clackers** · 08-13-2016, 07:30 PM

Originally posted by Des

What about X-mode for that situation, @Clackers? As far as I can tell, it's like M but with the shutter speed locked at maximum (non-HSS) shutter speed (1/180th on the K-3, I guess it's 1/200th on the K-1).

Yeah, X mode does that, Des. I've never had that option until getting the K-1.

Sandy Hancock · 08-13-2016, 07:42 PM - **1 Like**

I usually put the camera in M, at a shutter speed and aperture I want and the lowest ISO to give a moderately underexposed result. I always bounce the flash off something or use a big diffuser. Still deciding over Auto vs P-TTL as the preferred flash setting.

I would much rather push two or three stops in post processing than have blown highlights.

08-13-2016, 07:56 AM	#1
JimJohnson Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Summer:Lake Superior - Michigan Winter:Texas Hill Country Photos: Gallery Posts: 2,772	Your exposure mode preference for P-TTL flash? The scene is an indoor social event where the photographer is capturing candid shots in a moving environment - examples would be wedding receptions, reunions, school dances, etc. Flash is camera mounted in P-TTL mode and might be direct, or more likely a ceiling bounce (with maybe a catch light reflector). What is your preferred exposure mode? Do you tend to use auto, program, aperture priority or shutter priority, and why?

08-13-2016, 08:54 AM	#5
andy888 Banned Join Date: May 2016 Posts: 181	Originally posted by wowarning I've never seen an old lady drop dead because a flash went off. Shoot away. I was always annoyed by the amount of variation that there would be between shots when shooting in any type of priority mode. I switched to M - ISO 800, f4.0, 1/125s and they were much better. The final step was taking the flash out of p-ttl and using manual for that too. Takes a little experimenting to dial it in, but once you do your shots are much more consistent when you're taking the majority from roughly the same distance. If you wind up much closer or further away, adjust the flash strength accordingly. Manual is not madness, it is the key to consistent results (for me anyway, with the setup I'm using). Oh. it seems a war might start about manual vs TTL. Well, flash does make people nervous and pressure feel. any poor girl face a big flash she would nervous about coming big white. yes, I never see one glad to. some would refuse you. P-TTL does greatly reduce the light you make. that is great and thankful. More important is not it give good result at the first time . It is it let you focus on MORE important things. free you from exposure to like observe scene and box it, angle, models , that is most important than the mere exposure. The variation? I don't care. it is minor if it does exist. We are not scientist with a light meter. OK? I find it would not influence the feel of the picture. the direction and distance is more important that a EV(if it with correct range). Lets make back a step. using manual to struggle for a exposure are you can make better than the "variant"? Then why people pay $$$ to get light meter? they are machine too? they are "auto" too? I do think manual have cases . but no here in these scene. Last edited by andy888; 08-13-2016 at 09:06 AM.

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08-13-2016, 08:11 AM	#2
stevebrot Otis Memorial Pentaxian Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Vancouver (USA) Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 42,007	How much attention do you want to give to the process? For the cases you describe, priority should be given to shutter speed to avoid ghosting and aperture for adequate DOF. The highest level of control is available in M mode. I would avoid Auto, unless you are willing to let the camera get "creative" on what it thinks you need. I would avoid auto-ISO for the same reason. Steve

08-13-2016, 08:19 AM	#3
andy888 Banned Join Date: May 2016 Posts: 181	Originally posted by JimJohnson The scene is an indoor social event where the photographer is capturing candid shots in a moving environment - examples would be wedding receptions, reunions, school dances, etc. Flash is camera mounted in P-TTL mode and might be direct, or more likely a ceiling bounce (with maybe a catch light reflector). What is your preferred exposure mode? Do you tend to use auto, program, aperture priority or shutter priority, and why? avoid using flash. flash is anyway a man made light. and spot light. keep the scene as it was. avoid using flash. flash might scare people, hurt their eyes. When you have to use it to lip up some part you think you must. Ceiling is first choice. This make light more like nature. When you have to shot light to people. try to do as few as possible. so P-TTL.Av, or Pv. that is I prefer. If possible. remove the trigger light from the camera to reduce light you made to scare people. radio trigger is OK. For quick capture and miss no important event. Manual is madness.

08-13-2016, 08:33 AM - 2 Likes	#4
wowarning Forum Member Join Date: Jun 2013 Posts: 60	I've never seen an old lady drop dead because a flash went off. Shoot away. I was always annoyed by the amount of variation that there would be between shots when shooting in any type of priority mode. I switched to M - ISO 800, f4.0, 1/125s and they were much better. The final step was taking the flash out of p-ttl and using manual for that too. Takes a little experimenting to dial it in, but once you do your shots are much more consistent when you're taking the majority from roughly the same distance. If you wind up much closer or further away, adjust the flash strength accordingly. Manual is not madness, it is the key to consistent results (for me anyway, with the setup I'm using).

08-13-2016, 09:21 AM	#6
wowarning Forum Member Join Date: Jun 2013 Posts: 60	You are about to be seriously disappointed if you're looking for a war, lol. I simply stated what didn't work for me and what does. A different flash might give different results than mine which is why I said "with the setup I'm using." Seriously though, you've taken flash pictures and left people shaking and scared? The OP didn't mention PTSD dances as one of the possible events, lmao.

08-13-2016, 09:45 AM	#7
Huy Forum Member Join Date: Jan 2014 Photos: Gallery Posts: 87	Put the camera in Manual mode and only set the flash in P-TTL works best for me. Just make sure the camera is under exposed by from 1 to 3 stops by setting low ISO, stopping down or speeding up. The flash will be able to compensate automatically. It's also good if you bounce the flash too. I almost always bounce the flash off the ceiling or a white wall if possible to make the light softer. However, keep in mind the subject distance and the maximum GN of your flash though. If the subject is far away, you may consider increasing ISO. Last edited by Huy; 08-13-2016 at 01:34 PM.

08-13-2016, 09:55 AM	#8
aleonx3 Veteran Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Brampton, Ontario Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 3,996	As some have already suggested... the greatest degree of control is M mode... set the shutter and aperture then, change ISO and/or EV depending on how much ambient light you need and WB due to flash. For better result, get the new flash (eg. AF360FZG II) with front LED and use bounce flash off ceiling if possible.

08-13-2016, 12:04 PM	#9
Culture Veteran Member Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: Vaasa Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 818	I have been wondering this same question recently. I was wondering the best setting for a wedding i did using pttl flashes. I decided to shoot in TAv mode and let the auto ISO float. For most of my shots I saw that the ISO was always maxed out. I thought that with the flash, the ISO will be on the lower side. So I have decided that with next similar situations I was going to lower the upper side of the auto ISO. At some point in the event I put my flash into HSS mode and my camera into AV mode. The reason was that I was going in and out of sunny places to low light situations. With my aperture and ISO constant and shutter speed floating I could get the shoot even if it wasn't perfect, it was close enough. I believe manual might be the best option. But I dont have enough experience to completely use it yet.

08-13-2016, 01:38 PM	#10
Huy Forum Member Join Date: Jan 2014 Photos: Gallery Posts: 87	Originally posted by Culture I believe manual might be the best option. But I dont have enough experience to completely use it yet. Try it if you have a chance. It's pretty easy, especially if your flash is in P-TTL.

08-13-2016, 02:49 PM	#11
mcgregni Veteran Member Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: Surrey, England Posts: 2,603	You can try and avoid blinding people by careful bounce angles, backwards, over the shoulder .... And using a flag /flashbender type thing. Like most here it seems, Manual camera exposure mode is the one I'd recommend, combined with P-TTL flash. It makes balancing ambient and flash exposures simplest, and keeps them independent. . Fix your ISO and aperture as appropriate to the environment and type of image. Use exposure time to control the ambient (background) brightness, and Flash Compensation on the flash unit for the flash brightness. I totally avoid any auto-ISO, ever, with flash..... Asking for trouble. Like Sv mode, it is really an unintuitive way to vary exposures for flash working I feel ..... Also there are loads of reports from people who have ended up with ruined flash shots because the ISO has gone crazy.

08-13-2016, 02:53 PM	#12
clackers Otis Memorial Pentaxian Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: Melbourne Photos: Albums Posts: 16,397	In various modes, the camera may want to jack the ISO beyond 800 or let the shutter speed fall below 1/200 - not great for pics of drunken people who can't hold absolutely still. 😀 M mode solves this - take charge!

08-13-2016, 06:21 PM	#13
Des Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Victoria Australia Photos: Albums Posts: 6,423	Originally posted by clackers In various modes, the camera may want to jack the ISO beyond 800 or let the shutter speed fall below 1/200 - not great for pics of drunken people who can't hold absolutely still. �� M mode solves this - take charge! What about X-mode for that situation, @Clackers? As far as I can tell, it's like M but with the shutter speed locked at maximum (non-HSS) shutter speed (1/180th on the K-3, I guess it's 1/200th on the K-1).

08-13-2016, 07:30 PM	#14
clackers Otis Memorial Pentaxian Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: Melbourne Photos: Albums Posts: 16,397	Originally posted by Des What about X-mode for that situation, @Clackers? As far as I can tell, it's like M but with the shutter speed locked at maximum (non-HSS) shutter speed (1/180th on the K-3, I guess it's 1/200th on the K-1). Yeah, X mode does that, Des. I've never had that option until getting the K-1.

08-13-2016, 07:42 PM - 1 Like	#15
Sandy Hancock Moderator Site Supporter Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Adelaide Hills, South Australia Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 11,272	I usually put the camera in M, at a shutter speed and aperture I want and the lowest ISO to give a moderately underexposed result. I always bounce the flash off something or use a big diffuser. Still deciding over Auto vs P-TTL as the preferred flash setting. I would much rather push two or three stops in post processing than have blown highlights.