A watch & a flash

Markx · 10-06-2016, 11:13 AM

Dear pentaxians,

I know that using flash is very complicated thing for a simple person like me, all I want to do is take a nice photos of my watches. I tried the flash with all the possible angles and all I got was bad results. Perhaps I need to buy additional equipment but I don't know where to start and what to buy. I need a simple solution and with try and error hopefully I'll get a good photo.

Condition: handheld, indoors and under tungsten light.

Equipment: Pentax K3 + SMC Pentax-D FA 100m F2.8 Macro WR + Pentax AF360FGZ II.

Thanks for your help!

**TER-OR** · 10-06-2016, 11:35 AM

Your best tool for this will be a tripod. Seriously, use the timer and you can use slower shutter speed. A diffusing strategy for your flash - even a bounce card would help if you have the tripod. You can also consider an inexpensive softbox and control the flash off-camera. Close macro isn't difficult, just keep your lens stopped down. That 100mm is very sharp at f16.

This year I've been using a Sunpak DX-8R ring flash in manual mode, camera in P-mode 1/160sec, f/16 and ISO 100 to do field insect photography. It's been great. It did take many years refining technique, but that's with moving subjects.

Pixelhdr · 10-06-2016, 11:37 AM

You may want to look into cross-polarization technique. Here is a link Taming those Annoying Highlights: Cross-Polarization Flash Macro Photography | NatureScapes.Net – The Resource for Nature Photographers. It is relatively simple but still requires practice to know how to use it properly.

**UncleVanya** · 10-06-2016, 11:51 AM

With a watch - given that it is a mostly static subject I would just add some conventional light and shoot without flash myself. But I'm just that way. If you can't keep the second hand sharp and need more light than you can bring to bear I would look at diffusing the light from the flash first and then other techniques.

---------- Post added 10-06-16 at 02:55 PM ----------

Originally posted by Pixelhdr

You may want to look into cross-polarization technique. Here is a link Taming those Annoying Highlights: Cross-Polarization Flash Macro Photography | NatureScapes.Net – The Resource for Nature Photographers. It is relatively simple but still requires practice to know how to use it properly.

The thing missing is the no-flash shots to show how much light you are getting. Given the cross polarized lighting I would expect only the light that scatters on impact is reaching the sensor and then only if not scattered into the direction of the filtering polarizer. Given this I would image the number of stops lost is pretty high - and as indicated will vary quite a bit.

Markx · 10-06-2016, 02:35 PM

I googled for a while and found about light tents and reflectors and they sound fantastic but sadly they are not practical.

I searched Sto-Fen website but couldn't find anything for my flash, so what should I get? Soft box, reflect card etc....

Yesterday I saw a video for a guy on YouTube using what I think is a soft box and taking very sharp photos of insects.

I tried all the modes and positions with my flash but it seems something is missing.

**Apet-Sure** · 10-06-2016, 02:50 PM

Originally posted by TER-OR

consider an inexpensive softbox

Empty cake frosting containers. In addition you can put layers of frosted 'scotch' tape on the flash.

**UncleVanya** · 10-06-2016, 05:43 PM

Gary Fong lightsphere.
any small attachable softsided softbox.
The idea above with cake frosting containers.
sheer curtain material in a small picture frame.

**RGlasel** · 10-06-2016, 06:15 PM

Originally posted by Markx

I tried all the modes and positions with my flash but it seems something is missing.

I've had some success with a small fluorescent lamp in close proximity at an indirect angle to the static object, then adjusting the colour temperature to make it look natural. Put the watch on card stock, that way you get a dull, flat background and no stray threads showing up in the picture. The fluorescent tube is a great diffuser and as long as there isn't too much ambient light or bright incandescent lights on, with a little post processing, you get good colours.

BrianR · 10-06-2016, 07:26 PM

Originally posted by Markx

I googled for a while and found about light tents and reflectors and they sound fantastic but sadly they are not practical.

Take box, cut holes in side, cover holes with diffusion material (copy paper, parchment paper, tissue paper, lots of options but be consistent), add desk lamps (with the same type of bulbs), camera on tripod and you're good to go. A sample construction:

Strobist: How To: DIY $10 Macro Photo Studio

Samples of what you've managed and examples of the type of photo you're trying to achieve would be a help, but a simple light tent is an easy and safe way to start.

Originally posted by UncleVanya

With a watch - given that it is a mostly static subject I would just add some conventional light and shoot without flash myself. But I'm just that way. If you can't keep the second hand sharp and need more light than you can bring to bear I would look at diffusing the light from the flash first and then other techniques

Agree with the advantage of a what-you-see-is-what-you-get setup, especially if you're new at lighting. If you can't get the second hand sharp (and you want it sharp) can't most watches be stopped?

10-06-2016, 11:13 AM	#1
Markx New Member Join Date: Apr 2015 Posts: 14	A watch & a flash Dear pentaxians, I know that using flash is very complicated thing for a simple person like me, all I want to do is take a nice photos of my watches. I tried the flash with all the possible angles and all I got was bad results. Perhaps I need to buy additional equipment but I don't know where to start and what to buy. I need a simple solution and with try and error hopefully I'll get a good photo. Condition: handheld, indoors and under tungsten light. Equipment: Pentax K3 + SMC Pentax-D FA 100m F2.8 Macro WR + Pentax AF360FGZ II. Thanks for your help!

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10-06-2016, 11:35 AM	#2
TER-OR Site Supporter Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Dundee, IL Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 6,699	Your best tool for this will be a tripod. Seriously, use the timer and you can use slower shutter speed. A diffusing strategy for your flash - even a bounce card would help if you have the tripod. You can also consider an inexpensive softbox and control the flash off-camera. Close macro isn't difficult, just keep your lens stopped down. That 100mm is very sharp at f16. This year I've been using a Sunpak DX-8R ring flash in manual mode, camera in P-mode 1/160sec, f/16 and ISO 100 to do field insect photography. It's been great. It did take many years refining technique, but that's with moving subjects.

10-06-2016, 11:37 AM	#3
Pixelhdr Forum Member Join Date: Feb 2014 Posts: 90	You may want to look into cross-polarization technique. Here is a link Taming those Annoying Highlights: Cross-Polarization Flash Macro Photography \| NatureScapes.Net – The Resource for Nature Photographers. It is relatively simple but still requires practice to know how to use it properly.

10-06-2016, 11:51 AM	#4
UncleVanya Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Jul 2014 Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 28,459	With a watch - given that it is a mostly static subject I would just add some conventional light and shoot without flash myself. But I'm just that way. If you can't keep the second hand sharp and need more light than you can bring to bear I would look at diffusing the light from the flash first and then other techniques. ---------- Post added 10-06-16 at 02:55 PM ---------- Originally posted by Pixelhdr You may want to look into cross-polarization technique. Here is a link Taming those Annoying Highlights: Cross-Polarization Flash Macro Photography \| NatureScapes.Net – The Resource for Nature Photographers. It is relatively simple but still requires practice to know how to use it properly. The thing missing is the no-flash shots to show how much light you are getting. Given the cross polarized lighting I would expect only the light that scatters on impact is reaching the sensor and then only if not scattered into the direction of the filtering polarizer. Given this I would image the number of stops lost is pretty high - and as indicated will vary quite a bit.

10-06-2016, 02:35 PM	#5
Markx New Member Join Date: Apr 2015 Posts: 14 Original Poster	I googled for a while and found about light tents and reflectors and they sound fantastic but sadly they are not practical. I searched Sto-Fen website but couldn't find anything for my flash, so what should I get? Soft box, reflect card etc.... Yesterday I saw a video for a guy on YouTube using what I think is a soft box and taking very sharp photos of insects. I tried all the modes and positions with my flash but it seems something is missing.

10-06-2016, 02:50 PM	#6
Apet-Sure Site Supporter Join Date: Dec 2015 Location: Goldsboro North Carolina Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 2,872	Originally posted by TER-OR consider an inexpensive softbox Empty cake frosting containers. In addition you can put layers of frosted 'scotch' tape on the flash.

10-06-2016, 05:43 PM	#7
UncleVanya Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Jul 2014 Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 28,459	Gary Fong lightsphere. any small attachable softsided softbox. The idea above with cake frosting containers. sheer curtain material in a small picture frame.

10-06-2016, 06:15 PM	#8
RGlasel Site Supporter Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Saskatoon Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 3,229	Originally posted by Markx I tried all the modes and positions with my flash but it seems something is missing. I've had some success with a small fluorescent lamp in close proximity at an indirect angle to the static object, then adjusting the colour temperature to make it look natural. Put the watch on card stock, that way you get a dull, flat background and no stray threads showing up in the picture. The fluorescent tube is a great diffuser and as long as there isn't too much ambient light or bright incandescent lights on, with a little post processing, you get good colours.

10-06-2016, 07:26 PM	#9
BrianR Veteran Member Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Ontario Photos: Gallery Posts: 3,332	Originally posted by Markx I googled for a while and found about light tents and reflectors and they sound fantastic but sadly they are not practical. Take box, cut holes in side, cover holes with diffusion material (copy paper, parchment paper, tissue paper, lots of options but be consistent), add desk lamps (with the same type of bulbs), camera on tripod and you're good to go. A sample construction: Strobist: How To: DIY $10 Macro Photo Studio Samples of what you've managed and examples of the type of photo you're trying to achieve would be a help, but a simple light tent is an easy and safe way to start. Originally posted by UncleVanya With a watch - given that it is a mostly static subject I would just add some conventional light and shoot without flash myself. But I'm just that way. If you can't keep the second hand sharp and need more light than you can bring to bear I would look at diffusing the light from the flash first and then other techniques Agree with the advantage of a what-you-see-is-what-you-get setup, especially if you're new at lighting. If you can't get the second hand sharp (and you want it sharp) can't most watches be stopped?