[Kobie]

The camera is in AV mode.
I make a series of photos with different ISO and aperture.
K-S2 makes overexposed photos. With Q10 the pictures are properly exposed.


To obtain properly exposed images with К-S2 with Flash in P-ttl mode, you must set -3 exposure correction in the flash , -3, -4 or -5 in the camera and -2 exposure correction the flash in the camera...........I say that the flash is in TTL mode, but in fact it works like a manual flash

Auto Horizon Correction not ON.

Try reseting the Shanny back to factory defaults and then try. I've had to do that a couple of times. Also, when mounting the shanny on the KS-2, turn camera on first, half press shutter then turn on the shanny to establish full communication. See if either of those helps.

---------- Post added 03-06-19 at 02:16 PM ----------

Kobie, thanks for the videos. You mention in the first video something about using HSS in both P-TTL and manual modes. Can you expand a bit about HSS in manual mode as there was nothing in the video about this?

Also the specifications for V6II say it supports power sync (hyper sync). Is this something that works with the Shanny or only with a Cactus flash like the RF60x?

For the manual mode HSS, it works as a slave to have the shanny fire in HSS off camera using the Pentax optical triggering (you'll need a HSS flash mounted to the camera though as a master/Controller), I don't have another HSS flash to test with but another forum member who I helped out regarding the shanny did try it and it was successful.
I haven't actually used the Power Sync Cactus option to be honest. But now I'm curious about that. I'll give it a go as soon as I have some extra time and compare the difference between HSS and Power Sync.

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Last edited by Kobie; 03-07-2019 at 03:42 PM.

[Kobie]

Okay, I just did some quick testing and OMG!!!! I'm excited. Anyway, here's what works...
I could not get Power Sync to work at all, period.
So I started messing with a bunch of various functions and figured something out.
The Shanny set in "M" with Sync set to "HS" and the cactus set to "relative power" using HSS in TTL mode allows you to control the EV level on the Cactus and the absolute power on the flash. So you can now have full 1/1 flash power in HSS!
I'll make a quick video demonstrating this, outside with the high sun in front to give a view of over powering the sun with one flash using my trusty evergreen tree model lol.

You may be set at 1/1 in HSS but you'll still be losing about two stops of power compared to 1/1 at camera max sync speed. Good explanation here: tutorial: High-speed flash sync (HSS) - Tangents.


Changing the flash from an instantaneous source to a continuous source (even for a very short time) has a price in output power. A leaf shutter eliminates the need for HSS and makes your flash 4x more powerful at high shutter speeds

[BruceBanner]

Okay, I just did some quick testing and OMG!!!! I'm excited. Anyway, here's what works...
I could not get Power Sync to work at all, period.
So I started messing with a bunch of various functions and figured something out.
The Shanny set in "M" with Sync set to "HS" and the cactus set to "relative power" using HSS in TTL mode allows you to control the EV level on the Cactus and the absolute power on the flash. So you can now have full 1/1 flash power in HSS!
I'll make a quick video demonstrating this, outside with the high sun in front to give a view of over powering the sun with one flash using my trusty evergreen tree model lol.

I'm curious if you have ever managed to get HSS in Manual mode when the shanny is sitting directly in the hotshoe of the camera?

[Kobie]

I'm curious if you have ever managed to get HSS in Manual mode when the shanny is sitting directly in the hotshoe of the camera?

No. It fully needs P-TTL when on camera for HSS. Just like a Pentax Flash. Reason being is that the camera is controlling the flash to a certain degree and it's pre-programmed parameters.
*Lever on hot shoe moves down so camera knows a flash is connected*
*Camera checks if it can send info to flash (P-TTL)>if no = single pin up to X-Sync fire<>If yes=Sends camera info to flash and tells flash how to, well, flash*
You can have the flash set up to do HSS in manual mode, but since the camera can't get a response from the flash when it tries to send P-TTL info, the camera hot shoe programming defaults to standard X-sync speeds, so you can't move the shutter speed any higher than 1/180 sec.

---------- Post added 03-07-19 at 03:54 PM ----------

You may be set at 1/1 in HSS but you'll still be losing about two stops of power compared to 1/1 at camera max sync speed. Good explanation here: tutorial: High-speed flash sync (HSS) - Tangents.


Changing the flash from an instantaneous source to a continuous source (even for a very short time) has a price in output power. A leaf shutter eliminates the need for HSS and makes your flash 4x more powerful at high shutter speeds

From the tests that I did. Using HSS with +3 EV on the flash was the same as Manual mode at 1/1. I'll see what happens when I do 1/180 sec at 1/1, ISO 100, and HSS at 1/200 sec at +3EV ISO 100.

[BruceBanner]

No. It fully needs P-TTL when on camera for HSS. Just like a Pentax Flash. Reason being is that the camera is controlling the flash to a certain degree and it's pre-programmed parameters.
*Lever on hot shoe moves down so camera knows a flash is connected*
*Camera checks if it can send info to flash (P-TTL)>if no = single pin up to X-Sync fire<>If yes=Sends camera info to flash and tells flash how to, well, flash*
You can have the flash set up to do HSS in manual mode, but since the camera can't get a response from the flash when it tries to send P-TTL info, the camera hot shoe programming defaults to standard X-sync speeds, so you can't move the shutter speed any higher than 1/180 sec.

---------- Post added 03-07-19 at 03:54 PM ----------



From the tests that I did. Using HSS with +3 EV on the flash was the same as Manual mode at 1/1. I'll see what happens when I do 1/180 sec at 1/1, ISO 100, and HSS at 1/200 sec at +3EV ISO 100.

Shame.. it looks like the Godox TT350P really is the only flash that can manage Manual power in HSS mode from the hotshoe of a Pentax... that sucks.

[morenjavi]

Shame.. it looks like the Godox TT350P really is the only flash that can manage Manual power in HSS mode from the hotshoe of a Pentax... that sucks.

I hope Godox developed a Pentax version for the incoming V1, but meanwhile the only option is the 350P. If you are ok with stacking, maybe you can find a cheap second hand old Godox V850 and stack it on top of a V6II. But this option is only possible with the multibrand HSS firmware (tested with the last 'A' multibrand HSS version).

Regards.

No. It fully needs P-TTL when on camera for HSS. Just like a Pentax Flash. Reason being is that the camera is controlling the flash to a certain degree and it's pre-programmed parameters.
*Lever on hot shoe moves down so camera knows a flash is connected*
*Camera checks if it can send info to flash (P-TTL)>if no = single pin up to X-Sync fire<>If yes=Sends camera info to flash and tells flash how to, well, flash*
You can have the flash set up to do HSS in manual mode, but since the camera can't get a response from the flash when it tries to send P-TTL info, the camera hot shoe programming defaults to standard X-sync speeds, so you can't move the shutter speed any higher than 1/180 sec.

---------- Post added 03-07-19 at 03:54 PM ----------



From the tests that I did. Using HSS with +3 EV on the flash was the same as Manual mode at 1/1. I'll see what happens when I do 1/180 sec at 1/1, ISO 100, and HSS at 1/200 sec at +3EV ISO 100.

The flash at full power in manual releases all its stored energy. How can it release more energy over a longer period of time?

[BruceBanner]

I hope Godox developed a Pentax version for the incoming V1, but meanwhile the only option is the 350P. If you are ok with stacking, maybe you can find a cheap second hand old Godox V850 and stack it on top of a V6II. But this option is only possible with the multibrand HSS firmware (tested with the last 'A' multibrand HSS version).

Regards.

Good to know, cheers.

[Kobie]

The flash at full power in manual releases all its stored energy. How can it release more energy over a longer period of time?

I dunno, Ask Shanny, or Pentax, or a scientist, or a lighting engineer lol.
Maybe +3 EV in P-TTL HSS fires a bright enough initial burst to match 1/1? I didn't invent the thing, so I have no answer for you.
In a more enclosed area, yes 1/1 is significantly brighter than +3 EV in P-TTL HSS (I tested in a small room, so less ability for light to spread). But in a larger room, there really wasn't that much difference, if any.
Again, these are my findings, that's all I can provide.

I dunno, Ask Shanny, or Pentax, or a scientist, or a lighting engineer lol.
Maybe +3 EV in P-TTL HSS fires a bright enough initial burst to match 1/1? I didn't invent the thing, so I have no answer for you.
In a more enclosed area, yes 1/1 is significantly brighter than +3 EV in P-TTL HSS (I tested in a small room, so less ability for light to spread). But in a larger room, there really wasn't that much difference, if any.
Again, these are my findings, that's all I can provide.

You just discovered the Inverse Square Law.

[Kobie]

You just discovered the Inverse Square Law.

I hate math lol

[mcgregni]

Kobie, thanks for the extra tests and it's good to know more about the Shanny's performance. Right from the time I saw your first video photographing the plant with the street behind, it was clear that the flash was providing a lot of HSS bang per buck!

I've said before, but worth saying it again, I doubt there's any value in Bruce making comparisons between 1/1 power and a plus FC setting. The reason is that the base level of the metered P-TTL exposure will vary, it's not a fixed amount, so saying that +3.0 compensation was equal to 1/1 manual can be confusing, as it depends on the situation that the meter was seeing just at that moment.

Having a flash , or trigger, that can be set to+5.0 FC is really meaningless, because if the metering was so off that we needed so much compensation, well we probably should have switched to manual mode anyway ....