[Mayberrygal]

I have a Pentax AF-540FGZ flash that I use with my K-3 (and sometimes with my old K10D). However, I still have my old Vivitar 283's from my film shooting days. I also just purchased a Vivitar 285 off eBay. My first thought was to use them as supplementary lighting in a studio set-up, as I have some Wein and Vivitar slaves to use with them. However, I sometimes shoot weddings and use my daughter as an assistant, letting her shoot with my K10D while I use my K-3. I like to have my Pentax flash available for the K-3, but that leaves her with nothing for the K10D. I know that trigger voltage is a big issue with older flashes used with DSLR's, and that some of the old Vivitars can have high trigger voltages that can fry the electronics of DSLR's. I don't have a voltmeter and don't really want to go through the hassle of metering the voltage of my old flashes. I don't use flash on camera anyway. I use an off-camera cord and a bracket. So (finally!), here is my question. Will using an off-camera cord on the Vivitar flashes moot the question of trigger voltage? I'm talking about a cord that attaches via the hot shoe, not a PC cord. I have done a lot of searching on the web about this and can't get a definite answer to this question. Will the flash's voltage not translate to the camera itself if an extension cord is used? TIA for any light you can shed on this topic!

[MarkJerling]

Have a look at this thread: Flash trigger voltage - PENTAX official answer - PentaxForums.com and this one Recycling old equipment - PentaxForums.com

[pathdoc]

IIRC either the Vivitar or the Sunpak is a known DSLR killer. One of these days the trigger voltage is going to be higher than advertised, and all of Pentax's tolerances are going to be for naught. Seeing as you're running the flash with an off-camera cable anyway, might as well put a high-quality voltage-safety device in the circuit and then you can relax.

[Nass]

Good advice from Pathdoc

[stevebrot]

IIRC either the Vivitar or the Sunpak is a known DSLR killer.

The original (legendary) Vivitar 283 is indeed a killer of modern cameras with trigger voltages measuring in the hundreds and at least one report of 600V

Recent Vivitar-branded flash such as those currently sold by B&H are safe for modern cameras.


Steve

[Mayberrygal]

I do appreciate those of you who have been so kind to respond to my post. However, no one has yet answered the actual question, which has to do with the use of an off-camera extension cord that attaches to the camera's hot shoe. I do have a wireless trigger, which I could use for the Vivitars, though I typically use it only in a studio setting. So, yes, this is an option. But using the wireless transmitter would not allow the sensor to be attached to the camera itself as the Vivitar cord does. I'm still wondering if use of the Vivitar extension cord, attached to the hot shoe, would circumvent the high voltage problem. Or would the high voltage still be transmitted to the camera through the cord? Does anyone know whether this is so? Thanks again!

[MarkJerling]

I do appreciate those of you who have been so kind to respond to my post. However, no one has yet answered the actual question, which has to do with the use of an off-camera extension cord that attaches to the camera's hot shoe.

I think u/Pathdoc attempted to help you with that. And, the link I posted seemed to back that up. "If you are using a non pentax flash, you might want to consider a Wein safe cell (safe sync hotshoe voltage regulator) to avoid damaging the camera."

Read more at: Flash trigger voltage - PENTAX official answer - PentaxForums.com

The voltage drop over the length of the cable is likely to be minimal. Possibly somewhere between 0.5 and 4% depending on the type of cable, type of metal, i.e. copper or other conductor and, of course, length. So, if the voltage is high as is indicated in one of those threads, then you would not want to risk it. Either use the Wein Safe Cell or use a wireless connection.

[pasorro]

Look at the base of your vivitar 283 the oldest are made in Japan , if they are made in Japan they are dangerous for your camera due high voltaje. If they are made in Korea they are safe for your dslr, they are the newest and they are safe, sure. I am always looking for very difficult to find 283 made in Korea. They are with the vaipower module the easiest way to lighting.

---------- Post added 05-29-2017 at 01:27 PM ----------

But You must measure voltage before use it.

[Mayberrygal]

The cord is just a piece of wire, essentially an extension cord from the hot shoe which is why it works. The high voltage at the end of the cord will be the same, so your problem is not solved and you will damage your camera.

This is the information I was seeking and that I could not find directly addressed anywhere else, even on the forum link provided by Mark. Thank you. Unfortunately, that is not the answer I was hoping for. But I do have the wireless trigger, so that's not really a big deal. I just wanted to know if using one of the Vivitars with its hot-shoe extension cord would be an option for me.


As to the place of manufacture of my 283's, one was made in Japan, one in China, and one in Korea. I long ago put aside the Korean-made model because, although it still fires, it started at some point to only put out the maximum amount of light, no matter what the sensor setting is. It's been a long time since I tested it, but I believe I did test it with other sensors with the same result. So I don't know what the problem is or if there is any way to fix it. I guess the bottom line is that if I really want to use one of the Vivitars with an off-camera sensor cord, I will have to acquire a voltmeter and measure their trigger voltage to determine if any are safe. At any rate, I can still use them in a studio application to supplement my monolights.

[MarkJerling]

There will be voltage drop over the cable, but as I've pointed out prior, that is likely to still result in too high a voltage.

[pasorro]

Made in China could be good also.

[pathdoc]

The voltage protection device goes on the hotshoe of the camera. . The dangerous flash then plugs into the hotshoe of the voltage protection device, or into its PC flash port if it has one. If it does not, you may need a hotshoe to PC adapter if you do not already have this.

[stevebrot]

or into its PC flash port if it has one.

Thanks for mentioning the PC port. Pentax has been coy as to whether there is a voltage vulnerability through the PC port on their higher-end cameras. Better to be safe than sorry.


Steve

[pathdoc]

Pentax has been coy as to whether there is a voltage vulnerability through the PC port on their higher-end cameras.

All roads lead to Rome, as they say. As far as I am concerned, whatever can get carried into the camera through the hotshoe can surely travel through the PC port as well, and since whatever fires the one will fire the other, it all adds up to 600V into the motherboard and a very expensive paperweight.

OP, to make things absolutely clear: do not - I repeat, DO NOT - connect any flash of dubious provenance directly into your hotshoe OR your PC port; make sure it's going through some sort of voltage-regulator device (e.g. the aforementioned Wein safe-cell) first.

Radio triggers, on the other hand, are safe... at least from the point of view of protecting the camera. Whether those six hundred volts are also going to fry the receiver trigger the rogue flash is mounted on is something I cannot answer.

[SOldBear]

I don't have a voltmeter and don't really want to go through the hassle of metering the voltage of my old flashes.

Interesting.

- How much is a multimeter?

$6. And it can be used for many things around the house and the car.

7 Function Digital Multimeter.

- How long does it take to measure the trigger voltage?

3 minutes, including 2.5 minutes to look for the multimeter.