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12-01-2017, 03:53 AM   #1
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Cheap ring flash with 1 point hotshot?

I'm looking for a cheap ring flash / ring light, and there are lots of examples out there for $50. However, they all seem to have a hotshoe with a single point contact.

As both my bodies have a more complex hotshoe contact arrangement, will a unit with a single hotshoe contact work? Or will my $50 just get me a continuous ring light?

Cheers

12-01-2017, 05:23 AM - 1 Like   #2
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The single hotshoe contact units should work, but the only command the camera can issue such a unit is "fire". Depending on what unit you buy, you may or may not be able to control power on the flash. Then it will be up to you to determine what aperture gives the most appropriate illumination for the power level(s) you have available. Be aware also that there are ring FLASHES and continuous ring LIGHTS - make sure you know exactly what you are buying.

Make sure also that what you decide on has the right filter thread size to be able to fit on your available lenses!!!
12-01-2017, 07:02 AM - 1 Like   #3
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What are you planning to do with the ring flash? If it's field macro, you really just want a manual unit anyway. I picked up a used Sunpak DX-R8 a couple years ago. I was trying to use it in "auto" mode and it's a disaster. In manual mode, once you develop your formula, it's great. For me that formula is:
K3II with FA100 f2.8 macro, f16, 1/160sec and ISO 200. Flash at 1/4 power. That works for anything in range for macro shooting. Don't expect a ring flash to project at distance.
12-01-2017, 08:27 AM - 1 Like   #4
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I bought a Neewer unit from Amazon (not the LED one) and although it's technically for a Canon it works perfectly in manual mode on my K-3 II. They don't offer a P-TTL model and I expected to use it in manual anyway (for macro) so all I needed it to do was fire. And it does.

12-01-2017, 09:34 AM - 1 Like   #5
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Unless you buy a flash with P-TTL you'll end up shooting in manual mode anyway. The sensor on the older auto "thyristor" flashes is usually placed on the foot of the power unit and isn't of much utility for macro work on isolated subjects - like a flower with a distant background.

The spacing on the hot shoe contacts differs between brands so there isn't much danger of cross circuiting if you use say an old Sunpak ring flash with a shoe for Olympus/Nikon/Canon/Minolta on your Pentax.

Best of all would be to find a Sunpak with a shoe for Pentax as even though TTL won't be supported (except on *stD) it will at least set the flash sync speed for you. A generic hot shoe with a single center contact was made but these are rare to find. The shoe/foot for Pentax sometimes shows up on the used/NOS market.

Last edited by Not a Number; 12-01-2017 at 09:45 AM.
12-01-2017, 12:04 PM   #6
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QuoteOriginally posted by Not a Number Quote
Best of all would be to find a Sunpak with a shoe for Pentax as even though TTL won't be supported (except on *stD) it will at least set the flash sync speed for you. A generic hot shoe with a single center contact was made but these are rare to find. The shoe/foot for Pentax sometimes shows up on the used/NOS market.
I was able to get a Pentax module via Ebay from Japan, IIRC. The Sunpak is nice, though bulky. It's plenty powerful for macro and has bumped my work significantly.
12-01-2017, 01:58 PM - 1 Like   #7
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If you want to buy used, ebay is awash with Cobra Macroflash, Centron MR20, Vivitar 5000, and Starblitz 1000-Auto Macro Lite units, which AFAIK are all identical except for the branding, The going price is about £15 (=$20 ?). These are undedicated (single contact as you say) with an auto and a manual mode. As it happens, I have just uploaded a review starter page about these units :-

Cobra Macrofalsh reviews - Pentax Camera Accessory Review Database


Last edited by Lord Lucan; 12-01-2017 at 03:30 PM. Reason: Typo
12-01-2017, 02:45 PM   #8
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Original Poster
Thanks for the responses, much appreciated.

Generally I want the unit for field macro work, I'm looking at setting up a table top macro studio which will probably be lit externally (although I may see how the ring light works).

There are a lot of different brands out there which all look surprisingly similar in terms of shape and size and the HMI, to be honest I'm not too bothered if it is a flash or a light as long as I get illumination! Neewer is one of the brands I was looking at, they seem to have a glut of cheap products that seem too good to be true (I raised another thread on this issue but I'm assured they are legit), and as I am not planning to take any macro shot professionally I'm not too bothered about robustness.

At least I can now have the confidence that purchasing an item that describes a "generic hotshoe" has a chance of working.

Thanks again
12-01-2017, 03:02 PM - 1 Like   #9
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Get a true flash for outdoor work. It limits your exposure, but use my guideline and adjust accordingly. Often I need to do a bit of tweaking in Lightroom, mostly bumping contrast but occasionally raising the exposure. It's honestly better to slightly underexpose with digital sensors than risk overexposure. Plus, you'll drastically underexpose your background allowing for isolation.

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