[BruceBanner]

Can anyone tell me why I cannot get pass 1/200 shutter speed in Manual (or any sensible mode) with the following setup;

• K-1
• V6ii (Tx)
• RF60x
• Lensbaby Velvet 56 or
• Takumar 135/2.5 K

Now I have tested and can pass 1/200 with an A setting K Mount lens such as the A24/2.8, just with the V56 and Tak135 I am capped at 1/200 (though it works).

Is there some special mode you need to be in with the cactus, or some menu in the pentax system that you must enable or toggle off to allow the user to pass 1/200 for those kinda optics? Obviously I am in Normal HSS mode in the v6ii, as I said throwing on the A24 and I can zoom pass 1/200, it seems the camera needs to know the aperture before it wants to allow the user to choose faster shutter speeds...


Cheers!

Bruce

[clackers]

Can anyone tell me why I cannot get pass 1/200 shutter speed in Manual (or any sensible mode) with the following setup;

• K-1
• V6ii (Tx)
• RF60x
• Lensbaby Velvet 56 or
• Takumar 135/2.5 K

Now I have tested and can pass 1/200 with an A setting K Mount lens such as the A24/2.8, just with the V56 and Tak135 I am capped at 1/200 (though it works).

Is there some special mode you need to be in with the cactus, or some menu in the pentax system that you must enable or toggle off to allow the user to pass 1/200 for those kinda optics? Obviously I am in Normal HSS mode in the v6ii, as I said throwing on the A24 and I can zoom pass 1/200, it seems the camera needs to know the aperture before it wants to allow the user to choose faster shutter speeds...


Cheers!

Bruce

P-TTL (a condition for Pentax HSS) doesn't work with those manual lenses, because of the lack of in-camera aperture control needed for metering. The flash will fire at 1/200s, but always at full power, too.

So, put the flash on to Manual power mode, and forget about HSS.

[Class A]

As clackers said, going beyond the sync-speed (1/200s for the K-1) requires P-TTL and the latter is not supported by Pentax for non-A (or better) lenses.

The "POWER SYNC" mode on the V6II is meant to support higher shutter speeds with non-P-TTL equipment, but IIRC, that only works with A (or better) lenses, as otherwise the camera simply won't provide a flash trigger signal.

[BruceBanner]

P-TTL (a condition for Pentax HSS) doesn't work with those manual lenses, because of the lack of in-camera aperture control needed for metering. The flash will fire at 1/200s, but always at full power, too.

So, put the flash on to Manual power mode, and forget about HSS.

Yeah I did go Manual power mode, I typically always do now unless 'running and gunning'. I take it you mean that in TTL mode on the V6ii unit with a non A setting lens it will fire at full power? It looked to me like it would vary strength and power of flash if in Manual power mode (but I wasn't fully paying attention at this point in time).

As clackers said, going beyond the sync-speed (1/200s for the K-1) requires P-TTL and the latter is not supported by Pentax for non-A (or better) lenses.

The "POWER SYNC" mode on the V6II is meant to support higher shutter speeds with non-P-TTL equipment, but IIRC, that only works with A (or better) lenses, as otherwise the camera simply won't provide a flash trigger signal.

I think I tried Power Sync to no avail, all I know is that the A24 i could get way further up the shutter speeds (1/1000 etc) but the Lensbaby capped at 1/200.

In reality it's probably not a big deal, I don't plan on using the V56 for that much flash work, it was more for macro (wedding) ring stuff where I might try and be fancy and do stuff like this (that I took with the HD DA 35 Macro);



After acquiring the FA43 I can see myself seldom reach for the HD DA 35 Macro, not because it isn't totally awesome but just a slight duplication of focal lengths and I use my V56 for more flower/plant macro stuff etc. Recouping some $$ on the FA43 purchase would be swell so I really would like to let it go.

The exif for this above shot was a shutter speed of 1/30, so I think I can make do with an upper limit of 1/200 (you tend to stop down a lot for macro as well as be indoors for ring and champagne glasses/cake shots anyway etc).

Is there anything else I'm missing out on in terms of functionality by using the V56 for flash work other than non PTTL and a cap of 1/200?

Cheers again lads,

Bruce

[Class A]

Is there anything else I'm missing out on in terms of functionality by using the V56 for flash work other than non PTTL and a cap of 1/200?

It doesn't get worse than that.

[BruceBanner]

Yeah I just had a trial just now with the V56 trying to recreate a similar look to the ring shot above, and that worked quite well. So I'll think I'll list that HD DA 35 Macro tonight. but also

One last thing.

The V56 does seem to operate a little differently than my other non A settings K mount lenses, or in fact some other regular AF lenses. When in Av mode for example, changing the aperture gives direct 'optical preview' through the OVF or LV, simply sliding the optical preview switch across (at the shutter button) does nothing, it's basically 'on' all the time. Av mode (which is its intended mode for most uses) forces the shutter speed to 1/200, regardless of how much ambient light exists, so it means I need to be in Manual mode for flash work in order to control shutter speed. That would be fine except now the green button does nothing. I have no idea of exposure other than chimping so it seems. I can actually work with that except my aim might be to do approach a flash image shot something like this;



What you're seeing here is a aperture stack and blended image, 3 shots I believe to create a smooth bokeh whilst providing sharpness (without the velvet haze) where I wanted. In regular non flash mode this is a singe, because the V56 wants to be in Av mode you pretty much take the shot at one aperture, change aperture, shoot, change aperture and shoot again, then you do the harder work in post. I think this image is a combo of something like f1.6 (for the majority of what you see), f4 for some of the flower and f8 for the tip).

How then might I account for differences in ambient and flash power if wanted to do a similar strategy to above?

Let's take the ring shot for example, I might want to aim for a similar 3 blended stack but each shot must fire the flash at the same intensity as well as not deviating in ambient light. The idea might be to having some of the text extremely sharp (on the rings), then blending out to the f1.6 'flash haze'. I just tried it now with the V56 and flash, with the f1.6 haze and was quite a nice effect, it's definitely something I'd like to try properly, but I am not sure how to approach this.

So... for example I might decide I like what I see at f8, ISO 100, 1/8 and with 32+7 for flash power. Now I'd like to move to f4, but keeping the ambient light and flash power equal. Do I simply leave the flash power alone (leave at 32+7) and now just compensate with shutter speed?

Lensbaby Velvet 56 has the following selectable apertures;

f1.6
f2
f2.8
f4
f5.6
f8
f11
f16

when stopping down or up is there some kind of basic math I can do with shutter speed to keep things consistent?

[clackers]

Lensbaby Velvet 56 has the following selectable apertures;

f1.6
f2
f2.8
f4
f5.6
f8
f11
f16

when stopping down or up is there some kind of basic math I can do with shutter speed to keep things consistent?

Double/half the shutter speed will be exact except when changing between f1.6 and f2.

[pschlute]

So... for example I might decide I like what I see at f8, ISO 100, 1/8 and with 32+7 for flash power. Now I'd like to move to f4, but keeping the ambient light and flash power equal. Do I simply leave the flash power alone (leave at 32+7) and now just compensate with shutter speed?

If you now go from f8 to f4 (two stops) and select a shutter speed of 1/30 (two stops from 1/8) you will get the same ambient exposure, but your flash will be too bright at the same setting. You need to reduce flash intensity by 2 stops also. Change that to 128+7 128 or 128+3

The change in shutter speed will only affect the ambient exposure, not the flash.

[kaseki]

An impressive photo. But which is the ring of power?

[BruceBanner]

Double/half the shutter speed will be exact except when changing between f1.6 and f2.

If you now go from f8 to f4 (two stops) and select a shutter speed of 1/30 (two stops from 1/8) you will get the same ambient exposure, but your flash will be too bright at the same setting. You need to reduce flash intensity by 2 stops also. Change that to 128+7

The change in shutter speed will only affect the ambient exposure, not the flash.

So I need education on my 'stops' I think. As I wrote above my lensbaby has those values on it's aperture ring, but other lenses (especially A Setting/AF ones) can do more stops than that can't they? With the lensbaby it's F1.6>f2>f2.8>f4, do each of these mark a 'stop'? What about lenses that can do finer adjustments, f1.4>f1.6>f1.8>f2>f2.5>f2.8>f3.5 etc.
What about shutter speeds, it's not 'doubling' always is it? 1/6>1/8>1/10>1/13>1/15>1/20 etc. Does each click/adjustment indicate a single stop?
With Flash to go from 32+7 I needed 6 clicks/turns of the wheel on the V6ii to arrive at 128+7

I am Pentax's worst technical shooter they've ever had. I am bad at maths and bad at memory recall stuff. If there was a sheet I could print, laminate and take along with me (or at least use for a year or two to get these values imprinted in my brain), or some kind of simple way to know via using a calculator/app that would be great...

An impressive photo. But which is the ring of power?

Hers of course, the smaller one

[pschlute]

So I need education on my 'stops' I think

Right, pay attention young Bruce at the back of the class

One "stop" of light is a halving or a doubling of light.

Shutter speeds : 1/8 to 1/15 is one stop. 1/15 to 1/30 is one stop ...so 1/8 to 1/30 is two stops

Aperture : fstops are ratios. f8 to f5.6 is one stop. f5.6 to f4 is one stop. So f8 to f4 is two stops

Light output from a flash is in fractions of full manual power. So 32 means 1/32 power. To get a two stop reduction in flash output you need to use 1/128 (or 128 as the flash displays). The +7 represents 2/3 of an increment to the next power level. So 32+7 is one third of a stop away from 1/16.

The number of aperture clicks between stops on your lens allows you to fine tune the graduation between "stops". Same with shutter speed which is usually 1/2 or 1/3 stop customisable increments.

ps. Actually my maths was a bit awry on my first reply to you. to change your flash power by two stops from 32+7 you should use 128 or 128+3

[clackers]

So I need education on my 'stops' I think. As I wrote above my lensbaby has those values on it's aperture ring, but other lenses (especially A Setting/AF ones) can do more stops than that can't they? With the lensbaby it's F1.6>f2>f2.8>f4, do each of these mark a 'stop'? What about lenses that can do finer adjustments, f1.4>f1.6>f1.8>f2>f2.5>f2.8>f3.5 etc.
What about shutter speeds, it's not 'doubling' always is it? 1/6>1/8>1/10>1/13>1/15>1/20 etc. Does each click/adjustment indicate a single stop?

Obviously with shutter speeds and ISO, these are linear quantities and it's easy to do halving/doubling in the head.

Aperture's logarithmic, though, but I think if by rote you remember f1.4, 2, 2.8, 4, 5.6, 8, 11 and 16 it will become second nature.

[stevebrot]

Aperture's logarithmic, though, but I think if by rote you remember f1.4, 2, 2.8, 4, 5.6, 8, 11 and 16 it will become second nature.

Yep...and try not to think too much about it; just learn the series by rote. I actually have a chart that I use, if needed, that includes 1/2 and 1/3 stops for both aperture and shutter speeds. That way I can easily remind myself that f/3.5 and f/4.5 are not a full-stop difference from each other.


Steve

[West Penn]

Obviously with shutter speeds and ISO, these are linear quantities and it's easy to do halving/doubling in the head.

Aperture's logarithmic, though, but I think if by rote you remember f1.4, 2, 2.8, 4, 5.6, 8, 11 and 16 it will become second nature.

The aperture series of stops also can be used for the placement of speed lights or strobes. If you place your lights at 5.6 feet, meters, cubits, or whatever measurement from your subject and you need a full stop more of light for proper exposure, you can simply move the lights to 4 feet, meters, etc. Or if you want a full stop less of light, you simply move the lights to 8 feet, meters, etc. The half and third aperture stops work for finer adjustments of your lights as well. Here's a chart listing full, half and third aperture settings -- F-Stop Chart Infographic - Aperture Cheat Sheet for Photographers

[clackers]

The aperture series of stops also can be used for the placement of speed lights or strobes. If you place your lights at 5.6 feet, meters, cubits, or whatever measurement from your subject and you need a full stop more of light for proper exposure, you can simply move the lights to 4 feet, meters, etc. Or if you want a full stop less of light, you simply move the lights to 8 feet, meters, etc.

Oh, that's great thinking, West Penn. The numbers express the Inverse Square law!