Originally posted by stevebrot Neither would I. A good rule of thumb is that if a camera does not provide sync with batteries out, the same uses electronic timing for the sync and may not be robust to higher voltage.
That is my understanding as well. All of the bodies on your list have X-sync fired by the shutter's clock mechanism and should be robust. What interests me is that while I predictably have not had a problem with my 150V Vivitar 2600 on any of my cameras having mechanical sync. I also used the same flash for over 20 years on my Ricoh XR7. While the manual describes use of the two dedicated Ricoh-brand flash, it also gave instructions for other flash with no mention of any voltage vulnerability. Apparently the sync timing has an isolated circuit. That being said, I now own a more powerful Vivitar 40D with Sears/Canon/Nikon/Ricoh dedication that was contemporary with the XR7. That flash measures at 6.5V and will set sync speed and flash ready on both my Ricoh XR7 and XR-2s when in Auto mode. Apparently voltages were starting to drop even in the early 1980s.
Steve
Out of all my electronic film cameras, the only one that I know to be safe is the Minolta Maxxum 7, which according to
Safe flash trigger voltage on Dynax 7? | ePHOTOzine can take up to 400 volts from the PC terminal, but the hotshoe is way less robust than that.
Most of my cameras are able to sync mechanically (LX, SPF, ME Super, and Nikon FE2), but I do have a Nikon EL2 which has a battery-dependent X-sync speed of 1/125s, and an unmarked fallback shutter speed of 1/90s which is automatically used when the battery is dead. However the EL2 was made in the late 70s, still at a time of high voltage flash and it seems to use a Copal Square focal-plane shutter which predates the ones used on the FE2 so it should be safe too. However I don't want to risk to test my Sunpak on the EL2 at this point.