Originally posted by mcgregni Power sync mode with the V6ii is to allow you to use non HSS flashes beyond max sync speed..... A poor man's HSS!
But as already explained by the others, in certain configerations and set ups it will produce more output, although with possible banding or uneven coverage.
It is a function of the radio triggers, not the flash. By definition there is no power control in the mode, as it automatically sets max power..... The flash level is controlled using other parameters, ie aperture, ISO and distance. Therfore it is not as convenient or easily manageable as HSS.
There's not much point to it when using an HSS system IMO..... You've got a V6ii and RF60x, so you're not a poor man!!
Well I've been looking a little into this and there seems to be quite a bit of merit to it's use, I think possibly a very underrated feature seldom talked about. I need to study some more and practice this but I just tried it in my house now (as its night time here), and first off being in Powersync didn't trigger the RF60x at all I had to hit the Multi/HSS button which then activated, then I gave it a shot at 1/1000. Holy moly... man it was a savage burst of light!
Why I think this might be important to me?
I'm sure you've seen these examples before but all these shots here were fired in HSS conditions, broad daylight, sun behind subject, full power manual mode;
1/3200/2.2
1/3200/2.2
1/2000/2.2
These are nice shots, but through the soft modifier set up I was using I was forced to use the FA43 for these portrait shots, using the FA77 resulted in too little light reaching the target from where I was holding the flash and standing back from the subject for optimum framing. Sadly the FA77 saw little action that day.
If I could generate a shot under these conditions which resulted in greater power reaching the target then that would be great, it might allow the use of the FA77 to come out and play, and for me to consider other types of modifiers.
I've resisted going down the Godox Xpro-P + AD200 route because of cost, bulk (both the trigger and unit are larger and more awkward to stow away than the V6ii/RF60x), there are a couple of other reasons the Cactus have a pro over the con (that I won't get into here), but basically if there is a possibilty of a stronger pulse even if it is not completely even, I'm interested to know how that translates to shots like this.
---------- Post added 06-18-19 at 10:54 PM ----------
I mean I think I understand the basics of this;
Normal flash stuff, when you can't get past 1/200 or 1/250th or whatever the camera maxes out at, the flash burst is quick, 'Bam!' 1/13,000th etc. I guess you see this in the extreme with slow sync stuff, the flash freezes what it touches, the shutter is still to complete and thus you get some motion blur in the parts where the flash didn't freeze. At higher shutter speeds (1/200th etc) that motion blur is less noticeable.
In HSS the flash is weaker because it's going 'pew pew pew!' in that seemingly singular flash burst, but its actually rapid (literally strobbing) effect and due to that (for technical reasons) its weak. So although we can shoot at wide apertures and fast shutter speeds, when passing a speedlight through various modifiers to make the falloff better, it sucks in range.
Hypersync is like a prolonged amount of flash being fired. It lasts 1/300th of a second instead of the 'Bam' 1/13,000th. So now it's a case of 'KABOOMMMMmmmm' and because although there is only a little slit in the shutter visible during that high shutter speed shot (1/3000th etc), the flash is lasting longer (1/300th) so that the shutter speed doesn't matter so much, the subject is still caked in light head to toe throughout the shot.
I can now understand this guys rationale for thinking Hypersync (or Powersync as Cactus calls it) is 'Godlike' because it theoretically it's basically HSS shooting conditions but with proper power now once again.
People... why do we not talk about this at all. How long have I been on this forum talking about flashes and power and HSS issues and various modifiers... Does the end result be so bad? Is the banding utterly horrendous and light fall off so bad? I mean all my portrait shots get some vignette treatment anyway lol, I just have to work on one edge perhaps instead
Looking forward to testing this out, and probably being disappointed, but if not... umm... this is gold dust!