[repaap]

The only way I know to trigger a AF360FGZII is to have a Cactus V6ii trigger on the camera (set to Tx mode i.e. transmitter) and then put a second V6ii unit on the hotshoe of the 360FGZII and have this one set to Rx (receiver). This then works and you can control the power manually from the trigger and it all works as you'd expect. I do this often.

Cool! Thanks! going to try that out...have to order those before that..

[kaseki]

huh?...

Sylight.com was unknown to me. It looks useful, although I have only played with it for a short time. Documentation is minimalist, even though not much is needed. Initially, I was unaware that the mouse button would zoom the layout. I haven't yet noticed a way to make one's own components, if that proves necessary.

[Drinkkeri]

Here's a shot I did quickly yesterday with my wee one;



In this shot I am using just an Ikea fleece for backdrop (the real backdrop is due to be delivered today, yay!), and for the light setup here I have done the following;



[I]It's important to note that all ambient light was killed in this shot[./I] It's not bad for a two light setup. Rather than fear the spill of light from the umbrella I am embracing it and using it to help get that backdrop into the shot (without deliberately lighting it).

I feel this is working towards the kinda formal 'bright' vibe I am looking for, but she still has too much shadow on her right side (our left), and the reflector was pretty close. By replacing the reflector with another umbrella I should have the fill performing better and also hopefully a better evenly lit backdrop, I might try this today if I have time (3x speedlights).

Of course if using three light sources then I can change a lot of the angles and different looks so there's that to explore too. So really.. right now.. i'm not sure I need the AD-B2.

You don't need another flash fot this kind of lighting if your main light is large enough. The reflector is enough with a slight modification of the plan. I suggest that you use your third light as a background light with a standard reflector&honeycomb or with an umbrella/softbox if you need brighter background or an defined vignette on the backgroud. You can adjust the shadow by moving the reflector closer or further away on the camera axis and the feathering of the main light can be adjusted barely by turning the camera side rim of the umbrella towards the model. Latter will of course affect your background if you are close to it.

[BruceBanner]

You don't need another flash fot this kind of lighting if your main light is large enough. The reflector is enough with a slight modification of the plan. I suggest that you use your third light as a background light with a standard reflector&honeycomb or with an umbrella/softbox if you need brighter background or an defined vignette on the backgroud. You can adjust the shadow by moving the reflector closer or further away on the camera axis and the feathering of the main light can be adjusted barely by turning the camera side rim of the umbrella towards the model. Latter will of course affect your background if you are close to it.

Cool, I will try that. My thinking is that because this is kids, and multiple kids coming in and out, I felt wanted them to have some space, and not have things like reflectors too close. Also the shadow quality/lift from a reflector to my mind is just not as nice as simply having a second light as fill and getting a nice pleasing balance between the two. I may even introduce props, such as an old fashioned school desk, apple on desk, rulers, text books, stuff like that, and am worried the reflector would be in too close proximity to all of this if I use that idea. I take your point about lighting the backdrop, but at this time it feels as though I am going to get enough background light from the umbrellas, but will definitely try your floor plan and report back

Thanks again.

[Drinkkeri]

Cool, I will try that. My thinking is that because this is kids, and multiple kids coming in and out, I felt wanted them to have some space, and not have things like reflectors too close. Also the shadow quality/lift from a reflector to my mind is just not as nice as simply having a second light as fill and getting a nice pleasing balance between the two. I may even introduce props, such as an old fashioned school desk, apple on desk, rulers, text books, stuff like that, and am worried the reflector would be in too close proximity to all of this if I use that idea. I take your point about lighting the backdrop, but at this time it feels as though I am going to get enough background light from the umbrellas, but will definitely try your floor plan and report back

Thanks again.

Also the shadow stays in control better when you get your subject's nose pointin generally in the direction of the flash. Using a large modifier forgives a lot but even then the light source in my opinion looks better from the short side than from the broad side. The reflection can be achieved from further away with turning the reflector facing the subject but it can be a bit harsh that way.

[BruceBanner]

Also the shadow stays in control better when you get your subject's nose pointin generally in the direction of the flash. Using a large modifier forgives a lot but even then the light source in my opinion looks better from the short side than from the broad side. The reflection can be achieved from further away with turning the reflector facing the subject but it can be a bit harsh that way.

Yeah, for sure there are a lot more choices to place the light for this set up, I'll be sure to continue posting here some more results and diagrams.

[repaap]

Yup. Going to order actually elinchrome Tranceiver PRO, and make sure that I can use properly HS on my Quadra and also trigger my AF 360(with receiver). Propably going to get one wired flash for my studio, so that goes well with that too. . . that should get me sorted for long time.

[BruceBanner]

Yup. Going to order actually elinchrome Tranceiver PRO, and make sure that I can use properly HS on my Quadra and also trigger my AF 360(with receiver). Propably going to get one wired flash for my studio, so that goes well with that too. . . that should get me sorted for long time.

I did look into the elinchrome Tranceiver PRO, I cannot recall why, perhaps it was just the very high cost (it retails about 3-4x the price of a Godox trigger), but I have a feeling there may have been another reason why I decided to move with Godox...

I'm not trying to put you off, in fact I'd love a member here to share their experiences with another brand of trigger and report back

[repaap]

I did look into the elinchrome Tranceiver PRO, I cannot recall why, perhaps it was just the very high cost (it retails about 3-4x the price of a Godox trigger), but I have a feeling there may have been another reason why I decided to move with Godox...

I'm not trying to put you off, in fact I'd love a member here to share their experiences with another brand of trigger and report back

If I would not already own Elinchrome flashes. I’d not have gone there. Besides I could already shortcut HS with my AF360. But it is not cosistent. I was thinking of getting godox, but then again I could not use it with my Elinchrome.

In a word I’v invested on wrong pony in the beginning(godox was not that what it is now and brands are counting). Now I thought that it could be too much of a trouble to sell what I have and go for cheaper road. So instead I got that receiver. Atleast I like what I gave from my big set. Would like wireless option too I quess.

So, it’ll be interesting to see 2 different approach? I want to learn all things about light. And it is great to have a conversation and/or atleast see what others are doing, in similar point what you are doing. I’vdone some photo workshops last year with schools. First time. It was fun and extremely teaching..

[BruceBanner]

If I would not already own Elinchrome flashes. I’d not have gone there. Besides I could already shortcut HS with my AF360. But it is not cosistent. I was thinking of getting godox, but then again I could not use it with my Elinchrome.

In a word I’v invested on wrong pony in the beginning(godox was not that what it is now and brands are counting). Now I thought that it could be too much of a trouble to sell what I have and go for cheaper road. So instead I got that receiver. Atleast I like what I gave from my big set. Would like wireless option too I quess.

So, it’ll be interesting to see 2 different approach? I want to learn all things about light. And it is great to have a conversation and/or atleast see what others are doing, in similar point what you are doing. I’vdone some photo workshops last year with schools. First time. It was fun and extremely teaching..

Well you're talking to someone who invested into Cactus... so yeah... spent a bob or two in the wrong direction there also. But at least they have a hotshoe, I believe I can blend my Godox and Cactus systems together with relatively no massive problems...

[BruceBanner]

Woopdewoop! First video up of some preliminary testing of the X2T and Xpro-P, Multi People Mode;

Youtu.be

Youtu.be

I also then tested (not on video) an X2T with a V6ii on top, seems to work fine, could change power on the RF60x and AD200 from the triggers and it all worked as you would expect. This was under 1/200 mind you... I'll test HSS n' stuff another day. And then I had the v6ii on top first and Xpro-p after, and that also worked hunky dory.

[morenjavi]

Thanks for sharing. Enjoy your new toys!

[repaap]

That was surprising. Have fun! Looks like fun already.

[morenjavi]

BTW, how dow you find the power of the AD200, compared to your RF60x?

[BruceBanner]

BTW, how dow you find the power of the AD200, compared to your RF60x?

I wanted to get back to you properly with some comparisons but it was too windy today to mess too long with setups. Weather was less than ideal, cloud cover with some sun coming through, but really I just went out into the garden to test the AD200 and get my head around the TCM thing and how to make that work (because I never RTFM ever... like... ever! ).

The following shots are all DNG files converted to Jpg through FastStone Image Viewer.

K-1+FA43, f2, ISO 100 (for all the following shots). Av Mode (fixed ISO).

-2.7 EV, No Flash;


The idea here with the framing was just to push how far I could get some cloud/sky details along with a subject well exposed, normally I never go as much as -2.7EV, the RF60x would typically be -1EV maximum. Sun is behind the subject which is often the purpose for using flash outdoors and lifting some shadows whilst gaining some rim light/hair light.

-2.7 EV, Magbounce+Umbrella rig, pretty sure flash was full power 1/1;


Same image with a 30sec edit;



-1EV, Magbounce+Umbrella, again pretty sure it was 1/1 power;


-1.7EV, Magbounce+Umbrella, again pretty sure it was 1/1 power;


-1.7EV, No Flash;


-1.7EV Magbounce+Umbrella (power unknown, perhaps less than 1/1);


Same image with a 30sec edit;


-1.7 Magbounce only (took umbrella off due to wind, and it also took the wig off ), same power as IMGP5350 (far more power and brighter exposed subject, harsher shadow line);


Here is a BTS of how close I was to the subject with the FA43, pretty close. It should be noted that the rig I use is very inefficient, it does an ok job for quick set up time and low storage issues (easy to carry on person), it's definitely better than bare flash, but I found I need both parts to make it work this well, a magbounce without the umbrella looks the same as a umbrella without the magbounce. So although I am close up in these shots with perhaps using a lot of power I am also not using an efficient modifier. I have plans to try stuff like lining the inside of the magbounce with tinfoil or white paper, something that might perhaps increase efficiency, it might however increase contrast and we lose that soft shadow line...
I can't even honestly swear it was full power for a lot of these shots, it was windy and I didnt have my notepad out etc. How I wish EXIF stored flash power settings




Next up I wanted to check out how bare flash with the F28 from away aways would work. This is starting to get into environmental portrait stuff, soft lighting on the subject is not as important as just having them lit well for the surroundings (hence bare). These were all f2.8 ISO 100, AV mode (fixed ISO again);

-1.7 EV No Flash


-1.7 EV Flash On (bare), power unknown. 28mm zoom i think.


A quick edit of the same shot;


-1.7 EV Flash On (bare, 200mm zoom), at least I think this is what the zoom did on the flash, placed a shadow on the house behind! So yeah... pretty powerful..


BTS

(no stand for the flash as I was handholding it bare whilst operating the camera).

Thoughts

The additional power is a blessing, it makes for either lower power and quicker recycle times (than a RF60x) or allows for shots like those F28 shots to being something I can actually entertain.

I wish I had this unit about a month ago on a family session I did. We did a morning shoot and one of the things we did was stage a story time session. I set up my rig as seen on a light stand fairly close to the group, (in truth just outside of frame), but at this time of the morning I needed it on max power to aid in any fill light purpose. As I was shooting I was capturing many moments that were arguably better but the flash was still recycling

Here's one shot that turned out quite well however;



The AD200 should make this sort of thing a breeze in future, with more moments captured with flash to boot.