Originally posted by morenjavi BTW, how dow you find the power of the AD200, compared to your RF60x?
I wanted to get back to you properly with some comparisons but it was too windy today to mess too long with setups. Weather was less than ideal, cloud cover with some sun coming through, but really I just went out into the garden to test the AD200 and get my head around the TCM thing and how to make that work (because I never RTFM ever... like... ever!
).
The following shots are all DNG files converted to Jpg through FastStone Image Viewer.
K-1+FA43, f2, ISO 100 (for all the following shots). Av Mode (fixed ISO).
-2.7 EV, No Flash;
The idea here with the framing was just to push how far I could get some cloud/sky details along with a subject well exposed, normally I never go as much as -2.7EV, the RF60x would typically be -1EV maximum. Sun is behind the subject which is often the purpose for using flash outdoors and lifting some shadows whilst gaining some rim light/hair light.
-2.7 EV, Magbounce+Umbrella rig, pretty sure flash was full power 1/1;
Same image with a 30sec edit;
-1EV, Magbounce+Umbrella, again pretty sure it was 1/1 power;
-1.7EV, Magbounce+Umbrella, again pretty sure it was 1/1 power;
-1.7EV, No Flash;
-
1.7EV Magbounce+Umbrella (power unknown, perhaps less than 1/1);
Same image with a 30sec edit;
-1.7 Magbounce only (took umbrella off due to wind, and it also took the wig off
), same power as IMGP5350 (far more power and brighter exposed subject, harsher shadow line);
Here is a BTS of how close I was to the subject with the FA43, pretty close. It should be noted that the rig I use is very inefficient, it does an ok job for quick set up time and low storage issues (easy to carry on person), it's definitely better than bare flash, but I found I need both parts to make it work this well, a magbounce without the umbrella looks the same as a umbrella without the magbounce. So although I am close up in these shots with perhaps using a lot of power I am also not using an efficient modifier. I have plans to try stuff like lining the inside of the magbounce with tinfoil or white paper, something that might perhaps increase efficiency, it might however increase contrast and we lose that soft shadow line...
I can't even honestly swear it was full power for a lot of these shots, it was windy and I didnt have my notepad out etc. How I wish EXIF stored flash power settings
Next up I wanted to check out how bare flash with the F28 from away aways would work. This is starting to get into environmental portrait stuff, soft lighting on the subject is not as important as just having them lit well for the surroundings (hence bare). These were all f2.8 ISO 100, AV mode (fixed ISO again);
-1.7 EV No Flash
-1.7 EV Flash On (bare), power unknown. 28mm zoom i think.
A quick edit of the same shot;
-1.7 EV Flash On (bare, 200mm zoom), at least I think this is what the zoom did on the flash, placed a shadow on the house behind! So yeah... pretty powerful..
BTS
(no stand for the flash as I was handholding it bare whilst operating the camera).
Thoughts
The additional power is a blessing, it makes for either lower power and quicker recycle times (than a RF60x) or allows for shots like those F28 shots to being something I can actually entertain.
I wish I had this unit about a month ago on a family session I did. We did a morning shoot and one of the things we did was stage a story time session. I set up my rig as seen on a light stand fairly close to the group, (in truth just outside of frame), but at this time of the morning I needed it on max power to aid in any fill light purpose. As I was shooting I was capturing many moments that were arguably better but the flash was still recycling
Here's one shot that turned out quite well however;
The AD200 should make this sort of thing a breeze in future, with more moments captured with flash to boot.