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07-01-2019, 07:44 AM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by BruceBanner Quote
I know the AD200's don't have hot shoes, in fact most strobes do not, but they do have the screw holes to take attachments etc, it should in theory be possible to get them to hold a optical trigger cube thingy, and then run a sync cable from them into the AD200 unit (if it has one?). Tbh tho, strobes sit outside softboxes, so waking them up is not as painful as the ones deep inside. It could also be that Godox and AD200's don't even have sleep modes, or have them and they wake up better, I'll find that out.
Hello.

I'm not sure If I understand what do you want to do with the AD200 and the slave optical receiver. Do you want to wake up the AD200, after it went to sleep mode? Do you want to trigger the AD200 too, and avoid using a proper Godox trigger?

About AD200's sleep mode. This flash has a 30-60-90 min and OFF mode for sleeping. I usually set it to 1 hour, but I do it just is case I forget to switch the flash off, because I think there is no problem to have this flash ON during a whole day.

About triggering the AD200 without a Godox trigger. There is no problem here, you can use any receiver that could connect to the AD200's 3.5mm sync socket. I have tested the RF602, RF605 and V6 (Rx mode) with proper 3.5mm sync cables. No issues. But I have tested what happens after the AD200 enters in sleep mode, and you can't wake it up just by triggering using the sync port, you need to push the AD200's SET button manually.

If you want to trigger the AD200 by using an optical receiver, I think that you can use the S1 slave optical mode instead of. I have not tested if, configuring the AD200 in optical slave mode, It wakes up after entering in sleep mode, but I'll test this evening.

Regards.

07-01-2019, 08:14 AM - 1 Like   #17
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Moar

Note: sleep time on my Cactus RF60X (the UUT) seems to be between 15 and 20 minutes, measured by when the test light goes off. Measured by responding to a V6II may be different. In any case, I will report time from unit turn-on for flash trigger wakening experiments over extended periods of sleep time.

I have tested a Pentax AF-540FGZ for center pin response. Shorting the center pin to the recessed contacts for the shoe flange results in a flash when the unit is ON and awake. After the test light goes off the center pin becomes effectively numb and no flash results from shorting. Hence, connecting a photo-optical trigger module is not expected to provide a wake-up for this speedlight. Similarly, testing the AF-500FTZ showed that it was similarly unresponsive once the test light went out. Conclusion: YMMV with brand.
07-01-2019, 06:18 PM - 1 Like   #18
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Extended test results

I have successfully demonstrated Cactus RF60X wake up after delays out to 3.5 hours from turning the unit on and allowing it to naturally progress to sleep mode. That much time should be sufficient for most purposes.

Nighttime here. Have a nice day, Bruce.
07-01-2019, 07:00 PM   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by morenjavi Quote
Hello.

I'm not sure If I understand what do you want to do with the AD200 and the slave optical receiver. Do you want to wake up the AD200, after it went to sleep mode? Do you want to trigger the AD200 too, and avoid using a proper Godox trigger?

About AD200's sleep mode. This flash has a 30-60-90 min and OFF mode for sleeping. I usually set it to 1 hour, but I do it just is case I forget to switch the flash off, because I think there is no problem to have this flash ON during a whole day.

About triggering the AD200 without a Godox trigger. There is no problem here, you can use any receiver that could connect to the AD200's 3.5mm sync socket. I have tested the RF602, RF605 and V6 (Rx mode) with proper 3.5mm sync cables. No issues. But I have tested what happens after the AD200 enters in sleep mode, and you can't wake it up just by triggering using the sync port, you need to push the AD200's SET button manually.

If you want to trigger the AD200 by using an optical receiver, I think that you can use the S1 slave optical mode instead of. I have not tested if, configuring the AD200 in optical slave mode, It wakes up after entering in sleep mode, but I'll test this evening.

Regards.
Yeah I don't own any Godox strobe yet, I had no idea if they even have sleep modes and if they do whether they are easily woken remotely etc, I can see now (thanks to you) that they do.

That's good to hear I could possibly trigger the AD200 with something else other than Xpro-p. However... a friend says I would have limited control over it, connecting via the sync port of the AD200 wouldn't allow for power control for example?

Like... I currently use a V6ii (Rx mode) connected to my AF360FGZII, and I get full control over it, power, even HSS, all from the V6ii up ontop of the camera in Tx mode. Trying to do the same with a V6ii in rx mode and connected to a AD200 unit via sync cable, it's not going to be able to do all of that is it?

Right now I only have 2x V6ii anyway, and one unit is already in Rx mode for the AF360II. At this time I need to think carefully about how to manage my future Godox and Cactus merger.

One person recommended the cheaper 400SKii Godox Unit, but it's been brought to my attention that is still quite powerful at it's lowest setting. Someone who understands my longer term goals suggested the idea of 2x AD200 units, stacked together with a adb2 unit. This way we can get lower power in studio, and then also when doing outdoor class shots (and even entire small school shots such as 100 pupils) we can split the units up and get assisted fill light with that task (and thus not drag cabling around).

It's funny because up until now I have been considering the AD200 purely for event photography, running and gunning stuff, but recent testing has shown me than my RF60x unit and HSS or Powersync is more than I will ever need (and arguably lighter and easier to ferry around?) but perhaps the AD200 does actually trump overall in terms of battery, recycle times, proper HSS (or rather HSS with no banding issues to worry about and enough power for most scenarios). But now the AD200 has come back on the buy list from this working studio perspective. It will take time before I can start to replace for example the RF60x units with V1's etc.

This is a mock of where I am heading;



I've seen the results from this shoot and they are very pleasing. It's a lot of lighting, but it has to be that way in order to kill the ambient light completely and control the light so that from school to school I can set up quickly from using previous settings and mapping where things are etc. The end result is a positive bright image, soft shadows and wide apertures if that is what you want to do.

A fellow AD200 friend suggests using a V6ii Receiver via the sync port of the AD200 unit will not allow me to control power, it's a dumb trigger only. He understands my Cactus and Godox merger and suggests I stick with the V6ii and place a Xt16 on top of the v6ii to control the AD200. I can optically trigger also, but I think I feel more comfortable with the idea of controlling all the power settings from the camera and commanding them all under RF rather than Optically.

Thoughts?


Last edited by BruceBanner; 07-01-2019 at 07:08 PM.
07-02-2019, 01:01 AM   #20
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QuoteOriginally posted by BruceBanner Quote
That's good to hear I could possibly trigger the AD200 with something else other than Xpro-p. However... a friend says I would have limited control over it, connecting via the sync port of the AD200 wouldn't allow for power control for example?
Exactly, you could only trigger, no remote control at all.

QuoteOriginally posted by BruceBanner Quote
A fellow AD200 friend suggests using a V6ii Receiver via the sync port of the AD200 unit will not allow me to control power, it's a dumb trigger only. He understands my Cactus and Godox merger and suggests I stick with the V6ii and place a Xt16 on top of the v6ii to control the AD200. I can optically trigger also, but I think I feel more comfortable with the idea of controlling all the power settings from the camera and commanding them all under RF rather than Optically.
Yes, with the V6II or any other trigger as a receiver, via sync port, you have only triggering. You can stack the XT16 on the V6II and get power control & triggering. Getting HSS with stacking can be done, but you'll need some tricks and not all Cactus firmware send a HSS triggering signal to the top shoe. Time ago, before the XproP was developed and stacking was the only way to get HSS for Godox flashes I made a kind of table with all the possible combinations (that I could test) to get it work. You can see the table here, I don't know if it will clarify or confuse you more (Table for known Godox triggers & flashes combo, to get HSS working - PentaxForums.com). I didn't test modern Cactus firmwares. In general, multi-brand firmwares are needed.

---------- Post added 02-07-19 at 10:20 AM ----------

BTW, I bought the AD-B2 recently. I just wanted to get more power outside to light for groups when there is hard sun. I can see two paths for me: get an AD400pro (selling maybe my AD360 for a good price to get funds) or add another ad200 + AD-B2. I bought the AD-B2 just to check it, see if the 20W led modeling lamp is useful or not, etc. If you are curious about this gadget, I can make some chekings for you. Yes the AD360 have similar power compared to the AD400pro, but the AD400pro have all the 'modern and useless features' like the modeling lamp, TTL, etc... and it's nicer .

I never had a modeling lamp, and I'm enjoying the experience. Getting a studio flash with modeling lamp can be another option, I'm still thinking about it. Godox developed a very compact studio flash with 150W modeling lamp (MS300), very cheap, for beginners.

Regards.
07-02-2019, 02:50 AM   #21
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QuoteOriginally posted by morenjavi Quote
Exactly, you could only trigger, no remote control at all.



Yes, with the V6II or any other trigger as a receiver, via sync port, you have only triggering. You can stack the XT16 on the V6II and get power control & triggering. Getting HSS with stacking can be done, but you'll need some tricks and not all Cactus firmware send a HSS triggering signal to the top shoe. Time ago, before the XproP was developed and stacking was the only way to get HSS for Godox flashes I made a kind of table with all the possible combinations (that I could test) to get it work. You can see the table here, I don't know if it will clarify or confuse you more (Table for known Godox triggers & flashes combo, to get HSS working - PentaxForums.com). I didn't test modern Cactus firmwares. In general, multi-brand firmwares are needed.

---------- Post added 02-07-19 at 10:20 AM ----------

BTW, I bought the AD-B2 recently. I just wanted to get more power outside to light for groups when there is hard sun. I can see two paths for me: get an AD400pro (selling maybe my AD360 for a good price to get funds) or add another ad200 + AD-B2. I bought the AD-B2 just to check it, see if the 20W led modeling lamp is useful or not, etc. If you are curious about this gadget, I can make some chekings for you. Yes the AD360 have similar power compared to the AD400pro, but the AD400pro have all the 'modern and useless features' like the modeling lamp, TTL, etc... and it's nicer .

I never had a modeling lamp, and I'm enjoying the experience. Getting a studio flash with modeling lamp can be another option, I'm still thinking about it. Godox developed a very compact studio flash with 150W modeling lamp (MS300), very cheap, for beginners.

Regards.
Thanks again for the continued contribution to this thread.

I too am yet to have a play with modelling lights, however in this specific setup I am working with I don't think it will be that helpful. I mean I will be using 4 lights and only one light will be able to produce modelling illumination, the rest will be a case of shooting, chimping, shooting, repeat.
However, even now at home, I know that if I set my camera (and FA77) to X Mode (1/200 shutter speed), F2.5, ISO 100, and have my 3 lights at powers 4 4 and 4+3, and have them angled and positioned correctly, subject in the right spot etc, then I get the look I'm wanting (for that kind of shoot). I'm hoping to really commit days if not weeks of mapping and recording settings, so that when I do go portable or have clients around I can show examples and let them choose the kind they like the most and then get right into setting that schematics up.

For the school thing, I'm thinking for Studio it will be a mix of Godox and Cactus so will use the XT16 on top of a v6ii unit, and then when doing the outdoor classroom stuff just have two AD200's controlled by an Xpro-P (so a pure Godox set up only). I think that will do, at least to start with...

Is the AD200Pro worth it? What does it do differently to the standard AD200?

About the ADB2, I watched this the other day;
07-02-2019, 02:49 PM   #22
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QuoteOriginally posted by BruceBanner Quote
For the school thing, I'm thinking for Studio it will be a mix of Godox and Cactus so will use the XT16 on top of a v6ii unit, and then when doing the outdoor classroom stuff just have two AD200's controlled by an Xpro-P (so a pure Godox set up only). I think that will do, at least to start with...
The Xpro-P can be stacked too. I don't know if you plan to have two Godox triggers, but if not, the Xpro-P should meet all your needs, indoors or outdoors.
QuoteOriginally posted by BruceBanner Quote
Is the AD200Pro worth it? What does it do differently to the standard AD200?
Difficult to say, I thing that it depends on the price difference. Robert Hall have a review about the pro version: the pro version have a lot of small improvements, for me, 1/256 minimum power and the better mount with anti-twist are the most valuable.

QuoteOriginally posted by BruceBanner Quote
About the ADB2, I watched this the other day;
I remember this video . I can recommend you to look to another one, from this guy (Wes Perry), I'm enjoying a lot his videos:

Regards.

Last edited by morenjavi; 07-02-2019 at 03:17 PM. Reason: spelling ...
07-02-2019, 05:10 PM   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by morenjavi Quote
The Xpro-P can be stacked too. I don't know if you plan to have two Godox triggers, but if not, the Xpro-P should meet all your needs, indoors or outdoors.

Difficult to say, I thing that it depends on the price difference. Robert Hall have a review about the pro version: the pro version have a lot of small improvements, for me, 1/256 minimum power and the better mount with anti-twist are the most valuable.


I remember this video . I can recommend you to look to another one, from this guy (Wes Perry), I'm enjoying a lot his videos: Godox AD-B2 Long Term Review - YouTube

Regards.
Yeah he was great! No nonsense and authentic kinda dude. Subscribed.

I think that lower power could be important to me, it doesn't seem to be outrageously more expensive so I think I'll opt for two Pro AD200's.

And so the Xpro-P could actually be stacked onto the V6ii's? But perhaps I need to use other firmware than the Pentax one to get that working?

Tbh I've never tried another firmware for the V6ii other than the Pentax ones. I do have two V6ii's, they are both Pentax firmware, but the one that gets used as an Rx unit mostly, perhaps I could set that one up to being some other firmware so that when it is used in Tx mode (such as outdoor) I could perhaps command it to control the RF60x's in HSS along with a Xpro-p uptop also thus allowing HSS for the AD200's?

Essentially it comes down to two scenarios;

1. Indoors

Highly unlikely I'll ever want P-TTL or HSS for this, the goal is killing ambient light. Thus if I can have a V6ii and Xpro-P stacked on what would likely be a tripodded camera and can control power of all my speedlites and AD200 from behind the camera, I'm happy.

2. Outdoors

This time I will be mixing ambient and flash therefore HSS is a must. Large group shots so perhaps I might not always need HSS, 1/200 might actually be ok, but Australian blue sky days I have learned can be very bright and even significant stoppage down might mean highlights are still blown in certain places, so from this perspective I think seeking and ensuring HSS support is still there is probably a good idea.
I was thinking Xpro-P and two AD200's but apart from one another, one camera left, the other camera right etc, that would be the setup and I know with the Xpro-P would have no issue doing HSS for them.
But what if I felt the group needed some rear/rim lighting, or perhaps some additional lighting from the sides? It would be swell if I could bring the RF60x units into that mix as well, especially now that they can actually fire full proper 1/1 power under HSS conditions (Powersync) they actually have some balls now!

So now I'm wondering if I can have my V6ii + xpro-p up top, have the V6ii in power sync triggering the rf60x units whilst the AD200's do their HSS thing via the Xpro-p thing. Do you think that could work? Like I said, perhaps I need that V6ii unit to not being Pentax firmware? Then it will work? But if that's the case, when using that same V6ii for Rx work, now that it's not 'Pentax' firmware, is it going to struggle to detect the flash connected to it (which it usually does fine and I can see it says 'AF360FGZII' etc.

Hmm...

07-02-2019, 06:57 PM - 1 Like   #24
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QuoteOriginally posted by BruceBanner Quote

This is a mock of where I am heading;
I use Yongnuo components similar to your intended setup and the Nikon version of the YN560TXII will wake up YN560II speedlights from a Pentax hot shoe by simply waking up the camera. That leaves the Cactus...


Steve
07-03-2019, 02:28 AM   #25
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QuoteOriginally posted by BruceBanner Quote
Essentially it comes down to two scenarios;

1. Indoors

Highly unlikely I'll ever want P-TTL or HSS for this, the goal is killing ambient light. Thus if I can have a V6ii and Xpro-P stacked on what would likely be a tripodded camera and can control power of all my speedlites and AD200 from behind the camera, I'm happy.

2. Outdoors

This time I will be mixing ambient and flash therefore HSS is a must. Large group shots so perhaps I might not always need HSS, 1/200 might actually be ok, but Australian blue sky days I have learned can be very bright and even significant stoppage down might mean highlights are still blown in certain places, so from this perspective I think seeking and ensuring HSS support is still there is probably a good idea.
I was thinking Xpro-P and two AD200's but apart from one another, one camera left, the other camera right etc, that would be the setup and I know with the Xpro-P would have no issue doing HSS for them.
But what if I felt the group needed some rear/rim lighting, or perhaps some additional lighting from the sides? It would be swell if I could bring the RF60x units into that mix as well, especially now that they can actually fire full proper 1/1 power under HSS conditions (Powersync) they actually have some balls now!

So now I'm wondering if I can have my V6ii + xpro-p up top, have the V6ii in power sync triggering the rf60x units whilst the AD200's do their HSS thing via the Xpro-p thing. Do you think that could work? Like I said, perhaps I need that V6ii unit to not being Pentax firmware? Then it will work? But if that's the case, when using that same V6ii for Rx work, now that it's not 'Pentax' firmware, is it going to struggle to detect the flash connected to it (which it usually does fine and I can see it says 'AF360FGZII' etc.
I keep my cactus version on the legacy multibrand HSS, V1.0.13. I tested some PEN.A versions but what I saw, is that, above sync speeds, no signal was sent to the Cactus hotshoe, so staking didn't worked for HSS. After that, I bough the XProP version so I didn't need to do more experiments.

For PEN.A versions, as long as Cactus V6II sent a signal to the upper shoe, you will have the basic control for the AD200; but expect only basic control & triggering under sync speeds for this versions.

For the legacy version V1.0.13 this is what works related to HSS or Powersync with the AD200.

For powersync:
You just need the XProP stacked on top of yout cactus V6II - MANUAL FLASH, POWER SYCN MODE, SYNC ADJ +10 for better results. AD200 at 1/1 power

For HSS:
XproP with same configuration.
Then here comes the trick for the AD200: disable wireless mode, put a XTr16 receiver on the USB port, then enable HSS manually on the AD200. And you are done.
If you disable HSS on the AD200 and set power to 1/1, you'll get powersync.

So I think the most basic and 'guaranteed' setup is to get basic control and triggering, indoors, by stacking your XProP, and using under-sync speeds. For outdoors you can use your XProP directly on your camera.
From this point you could experiment by using legacy multibrand versions and mix Godox/Cactus HSS.
The most complex setup I made mixing flashes with Cactus and Godox triggers is this one:

* Camera with Cactus V6II+XProP, legacy multibrand HSS, MANUAL FLASH, POWER SYNC
* AD200, wireless mode disabled, XTR16 on USB port, HSS forced
* V6 (mk I) with a Nikon SB28, TTL mode etc.

Above sync speeds I can trigger the AD200 (HSS or powersync way) and the SB-28, at the same time (SB28 at 1/1 powersync).
So it's not the same configuration you want, but I think you can success mixing RF60x and Godox above sync speeds. Unfortunately, I donīt have more V6II receivers or any RF60 to check. Consider mixing AD200 and RF60 above sync speed as a 'possible extra bonus without guarantees' .

Regards.
07-03-2019, 01:23 PM   #26
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QuoteOriginally posted by morenjavi Quote
I keep my cactus version on the legacy multibrand HSS, V1.0.13. I tested some PEN.A versions but what I saw, is that, above sync speeds, no signal was sent to the Cactus hotshoe, so staking didn't worked for HSS. After that, I bough the XProP version so I didn't need to do more experiments.

For PEN.A versions, as long as Cactus V6II sent a signal to the upper shoe, you will have the basic control for the AD200; but expect only basic control & triggering under sync speeds for this versions.

For the legacy version V1.0.13 this is what works related to HSS or Powersync with the AD200.

For powersync:
You just need the XProP stacked on top of yout cactus V6II - MANUAL FLASH, POWER SYCN MODE, SYNC ADJ +10 for better results. AD200 at 1/1 power

For HSS:
XproP with same configuration.
Then here comes the trick for the AD200: disable wireless mode, put a XTr16 receiver on the USB port, then enable HSS manually on the AD200. And you are done.
If you disable HSS on the AD200 and set power to 1/1, you'll get powersync.

So I think the most basic and 'guaranteed' setup is to get basic control and triggering, indoors, by stacking your XProP, and using under-sync speeds. For outdoors you can use your XProP directly on your camera.
From this point you could experiment by using legacy multibrand versions and mix Godox/Cactus HSS.
The most complex setup I made mixing flashes with Cactus and Godox triggers is this one:

* Camera with Cactus V6II+XProP, legacy multibrand HSS, MANUAL FLASH, POWER SYNC
* AD200, wireless mode disabled, XTR16 on USB port, HSS forced
* V6 (mk I) with a Nikon SB28, TTL mode etc.

Above sync speeds I can trigger the AD200 (HSS or powersync way) and the SB-28, at the same time (SB28 at 1/1 powersync).
So it's not the same configuration you want, but I think you can success mixing RF60x and Godox above sync speeds. Unfortunately, I donīt have more V6II receivers or any RF60 to check. Consider mixing AD200 and RF60 above sync speed as a 'possible extra bonus without guarantees' .

Regards.
Thanks for that, so it does seem to be feasible. I have a mate who has an AD200 and Xpro-P so some testing will be done in the coming days, I'll repost our findings, but good to know all this as it gives us some info beforehand and makes us better prepared for getting things working.

I highly doubt I would need the RF60x's with 2xAD200's for outdoor HSS work, but it would be nice to know it could happen even if the setup is ridiculous

One last thing, if I was to set one of my V6ii's to being multi firmware (I would choose the one I tend to typically always use for Rx work for the AF360II), can you see it losing some functionality in this regard being in Multifirmware mode for doing it's Rx job for the 360II? That's the only issue I have, none of this really works if I need a PC to have to change firmware for a V6ii 'on the fly', the other V6ii unit I have will get 90% more work done being an Rx unit to the 360II.
07-03-2019, 03:05 PM   #27
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QuoteOriginally posted by BruceBanner Quote
One last thing, if I was to set one of my V6ii's to being multi firmware (I would choose the one I tend to typically always use for Rx work for the AF360II), can you see it losing some functionality in this regard being in Multifirmware mode for doing it's Rx job for the 360II? That's the only issue I have, none of this really works if I need a PC to have to change firmware for a V6ii 'on the fly', the other V6ii unit I have will get 90% more work done being an Rx unit to the 360II.
I'm afraid I can't answer, I just have a V6 Mk I as a receiver (V61.A.003) that I use with my V6II-Tx. With this receiver I can control the SB-28 and the Metz 48 AF-1, and I can 'power sync' with both and mix with the AD200 in HSS. But I need to make some SYNC ADJ adjustments to make a 'good mixing'; every flash seems to need a different value. But this test can't be 'translated' to a V6II-Rx. I really don't know is the V6II with the multibrand firm supports the AF360II, maybe you can ask it in the Cactus forums, to be 100% sure.

But I think that you can keep your PEN.A firmware versions, accepting that outdoors you will use only the XproP and AD200, and not mixing other flashes. Indoors, under sync speeds, you can stack the XproP with such versions (I can re-check this point when I had time).


Regards.
07-03-2019, 03:20 PM   #28
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QuoteOriginally posted by morenjavi Quote
I'm afraid I can't answer, I just have a V6 Mk I as a receiver (V61.A.003) that I use with my V6II-Tx. With this receiver I can control the SB-28 and the Metz 48 AF-1, and I can 'power sync' with both and mix with the AD200 in HSS. But I need to make some SYNC ADJ adjustments to make a 'good mixing'; every flash seems to need a different value. But this test can't be 'translated' to a V6II-Rx. I really don't know is the V6II with the multibrand firm supports the AF360II, maybe you can ask it in the Cactus forums, to be 100% sure.

But I think that you can keep your PEN.A firmware versions, accepting that outdoors you will use only the XproP and AD200, and not mixing other flashes. Indoors, under sync speeds, you can stack the XproP with such versions (I can re-check this point when I had time).


Regards.
The other consideration is that (for my specific) outdoors, when I might need more flashes it would be for group class/entire school shot/work, there's a good chance I will be ok with 1/200 anyway as I will be heavily stopped down (f8-11 or more), heck a light ND filter might be enough to control shutter, this way there is no real difference between studio and outdoor work when 'using them all'.
07-12-2019, 03:36 PM   #29
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Returning to the original subject for a moment ...

For additional credit, I performed the same RF60X speedlight experiment as before except that a Quantum Turbo Battery provided supplementary 330 Vdc power to the speedlight. The Quantum battery unit was left on (it has no programmed shut down or sleep time) and the speedlight under test allowed to go to sleep normally. After 4 hours, I attempted a test flash commanded by a Cactus V6II -- again no response due to the RF60X being in sleep mode. Next, using the test button of a second Cactus RF60X speedlight, I illuminated an area where the flash trigger cube attached to the speedlight under test hot shoe could see it. The unit under test flashed and turned on.

This suggests that the reason the Cactus RF60X can be turned on out of sleep mode over long periods using a flash trigger module may be that the hot-shoe center pin is part of the flash circuit as distinguished from the computer controlled circuits, and is provided some voltage from the flash capacitor. In normal use the capacitor leak down is complete after a few hours, explaining the earlier results. If never allowed to leak down due to being connected to an external power source, then potentially the RF60X is capable of flash-triggered wake-up over a very long period. I will try a much longer experiment to test this conjecture.

As a bonus, the Quantum Turbo Battery significantly shortens the speedlight recovery time after emitting sufficiently energetic flashes.


kas
07-13-2019, 07:52 AM   #30
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Addendum

A 6-hour test with the supplemental Quantum Turbo battery was also successful, but at that point the Quantum battery had been on for about 12 hours and was showing only a red remaining-charge light. The battery hadn't been freshly recharged when I began this series, so doing so might have eked out a bit more time. Clearly, the sleeping RF60X was draining the Quantum battery, probably via the flash capacitor safety discharge circuit.
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