[wooly11]

Hi All,


I seem to be gradually moving from Fuji X-T3 to Pentax KP and am now thinking about flash. I use flash very little but like to have the ability if needed. I am just thinking a decent good flash for on-camera use and maybe a play with off-camera. Definitely only amateur use, mainly landscape and family events such as Weddings and Christenings.
I have been thinking about either the AF360FGZ II or the Godox 350tt-P. Has the Pentax any advantage on-camera over the Godox? I realise that if I want to try off-camera use then the KP can trigger with the built in flash, but then if I upgrade to the new Pentax (when it comes!) it is not going to have a built in flash. So would then need a trigger of some sort so may be better to go Godox to start with!
As I think mainly I will only ever use on- camera is the Pentax worth the extra money? I am aware of the difference between the wifi and optical operation of the Flashes.
Many thanks - Michael

[Medex]

Look at Godox flash compatible with Godox X-Pro P trigger. You will be able to trigger more flashes in case you will move to more advanced photography.

[Pentaxrookie]

I am using the big ones from Godox (AD600) but the small ones from Cactus because they work with every camera.
Maybe this is an option for you because you can use them with Fuji and Pentax, like I do. And should you change your system later one again, you are covered and do not have to buy a new flash.

[morenjavi]

I seem to be gradually moving from Fuji X-T3 to Pentax KP and am now thinking about flash

Just curiosity but, why are you moving from the Fuji XT-3 ?
Yes I know it lacks IBIS, but I've been taking a look at Fuji cameras lately, and I'm impressed by the features; for example the focus engine.
Is there something that you see on the KP that the X-T3 lacks ?

[C_Jones]

I have 3 Pentax AF360FGZ flashes, and they all work very well. I use them with my Yongnuo YN585EX flash for Pentax and my Godox AD600BM. I noticed that the Godox TT350P uses only two AA batteries as opposed to the Pentax AF360FGZ using four, which would mean more power is available from the Pentax. I also have a Godox XPro-P transmitter which I use with my Godox AD600BM that works wonderfully. The flashes cover the lighter type of activity that I may need light for, where the Godox AD600 stores a lot of power and is capable of situations where I may need more light. If you plan on getting something like the AD600 at a later point, you may want to invest in the Godox TT350P due to its transmitter capability, otherwise I would recommend the AF360FGZ or the Yongnuo YN585EX as they are capable of powering more light than the TT350P. Just a suggestion. The AF360FGZ II model is all weather construction, whereas the AF360FGZ (type I have) is not. So that may be something else you could consider. The Yongnuo YN585EX for Pentax is a great flash. Though it does not have HSS (high speed sync), which I do not facilitate that often, it does have P-TTL (through the lens metering for Pentax) which excellently performs. So if you need something for a first flash for a KP, that might be a solution until you may move on to a more powerful off camera light like a Godox AD200 or Godox AD600 which communicate with a transmitter such as a Godox XPro-P. With those type Godox lights the power capacity is plentiful and dependable.

Good luck with your decision.

[chrism888]

Have you considered Cactus ? HSS options with Pentax, build in receivers in the flashguns

[Class A]

I realise that if I want to try off-camera use then the KP can trigger with the built in flash, but then if I upgrade to the new Pentax (when it comes!) it is not going to have a built in flash.

I would not consider any pop-up flash as a satisfactory solution for off-camera flash triggering for three reasons:

1. You will need to maintain line of sight between the pop-up flash and the sensor of the off-camera flash (or rely on bounced light). This will not only constrain the placement of the off-camera flash but also its orientation.
2. The power of the pop-up flash is limited, which limits usability in terms of maximum distance and working in bright sunlight. This gets worse/impossible when you put the off-camera flash into or behind a light modifier.
3. A pop-up flash supports automatic exposure control with the off-camera flash, but no HSS.

So while a pop-up flash can be useful as a trigger in a pinch, in general you'll run into limitations.

That's why I would consider a radio-trigger based solution.

Cactus make great triggers but they only control the RF60x speedlight (which is really nice as well) and some strobes (Hensel Certo and the Aurora Dante 400).

Godox offer a vastly bigger ecosystem of lighting solutions including flashes that you can directly mount to a Pentax camera using P-TTL.
My recommendation for a trigger would hence be the Flashpoint R2 Pro MarkII 2.4GHz Transmitter for Pentax. It's still on "backorder" so the next best alternative is the Godox XPro-P, or the Godox X2T-P (depending on which style you prefer, but note that there are feature differences as well).

[wstruth]

Hi All,


I seem to be gradually moving from Fuji X-T3 to Pentax KP and am now thinking about flash. I use flash very little but like to have the ability if needed. I am just thinking a decent good flash for on-camera use and maybe a play with off-camera. Definitely only amateur use, mainly landscape and family events such as Weddings and Christenings.
I have been thinking about either the AF360FGZ II or the Godox 350tt-P. Has the Pentax any advantage on-camera over the Godox? I realise that if I want to try off-camera use then the KP can trigger with the built in flash, but then if I upgrade to the new Pentax (when it comes!) it is not going to have a built in flash. So would then need a trigger of some sort so may be better to go Godox to start with!
As I think mainly I will only ever use on- camera is the Pentax worth the extra money? I am aware of the difference between the wifi and optical operation of the Flashes.
Many thanks - Michael

You really cannot go wrong in purchasing the AF360FGZ II it's weather sealed and has plenty of power. As you noted you can use it off camera with the camera flash as a wireless controller. It's also big enough to take modifiers such as my Flashbenders or Magmods and many more. Not to mention being able to work with an umbrella or a Softbox on a stand. Lastly it will always work with future pentax cameras since sometimes third party flashes need to upgrade their firmware when Pentax issues a new camera.

I have the Godox and the Godox XProP TTL for Pentax as well. Godox is coming out with the V1 for Pentax (according the B&H website)

Both the Pentax and the Godox flashes you mention can control other flashes in their system for PTTL, but you cannot mix them for wireless operation: Godox is radio and Pentax is optical. Since the Godox sends a radio signal it is a bit better, especially if for some reason your flashes are not in line of sight with each other. But honestly when I've used my Pentax and Metz flashes for a bit of wireless work in the house I've not had any problems.

While the Godox flash offerings are limited for the Pentax system you can use Godox flashes from other systems. I use a couple of Godox for Micro 4/3 wirelessly with my Godox controller for Pentax. Godox allows you to set up groups of flash that can be triggered with different amounts of power, and you can control that from controller/flash on camera without having to take a walk around your set up flashes, and that is something Pentax cannot do as i understand.

[wooly11]

I would not consider any pop-up flash as a satisfactory solution for off-camera flash triggering for three reasons:

1. You will need to maintain line of sight between the pop-up flash and the sensor of the off-camera flash (or rely on bounced light). This will not only constrain the placement of the off-camera flash but also its orientation.
2. The power of the pop-up flash is limited, which limits usability in terms of maximum distance and working in bright sunlight. This gets worse/impossible when you put the off-camera flash into or behind a light modifier.
3. A pop-up flash supports automatic exposure control with the off-camera flash, but no HSS.

So while a pop-up flash can be useful as a trigger in a pinch, in general you'll run into limitations.

That's why I would consider a radio-trigger based solution.

Cactus make great triggers but they only control the RF60x speedlight (which is really nice as well) and some strobes (Hensel Certo and the Aurora Dante 400).

Godox offer a vastly bigger ecosystem of lighting solutions including flashes that you can directly mount to a Pentax camera using P-TTL.
My recommendation for a trigger would hence be the Flashpoint R2 Pro MarkII 2.4GHz Transmitter for Pentax. It's still on "backorder" so the next best alternative is the Godox XPro-P, or the Godox X2T-P (depending on which style you prefer, but note that there are feature differences as well).

Thank you very much everybody, The difference in all of the responses summed up why I had been struggling to come to a conclusion! I have spent this morning as it is pouring with rain outside, getting to grips with the different systems and think it is best to start from scratch and take the Godox system and build it up gradually. This is not a price decision but based on the more available options. I had seen the new Flashpoint R2 PRO Mark 11 and will try to acquire one which is not so straight forward from here in the UK - International delivery, taxes and Vat make it expensive - but there are ways!
Thank you again for all for the ideas - Michael

---------- Post added 10-26-19 at 07:02 AM ----------

Just curiosity but, why are you moving from the Fuji XT-3 ?
Yes I know it lacks IBIS, but I've been taking a look at Fuji cameras lately, and I'm impressed by the features; for example the focus engine.
Is there something that you see on the KP that the X-T3 lacks ?

Hi, I have been with Fuji since the day the X-T1 came out which I absolutely loved, then moved to the X-H1 thinking with the IBIS this would be the ultimate. I teamed it up with their best red dot lenses (16-55, 50-140 and 100-400) and just found the whole thing cumbersome and results disappointing. I had to change because of a frozen shoulder all last winter being unable to lift the weight comfortably. I changed to the X-T3 and have been more comfortable but not overly impressed with the results plus the whole system particularly the AF system is getting overly complicated, in trying to improve the AF system unless you are a pro using the camera every day it is a nightmare to get the results that they try to claim for the camera - do not believe all of the claims on the gear forum and read about all of the poor focus reports since they have been giving X-H1 away.
For years I have been collecting Pentax gear including 35mm compacts, 35mm SLRs and of course Pentax lenses. It seemed a pity with 20 plus lenses not to use them on a dslr so in the spring picked up a used Pentax KP (3000 activations) and haven't looked back since. Although a little heavier the camera with the F AND FA handles really well and so I have now also added some DA zoom lenses, 12-24, 16-85 and 55-300plm and a DA55 1.8. The quality of these lenses is superb and far better priced than the Fuji equivalent. I have also just added a SMC Pentax-f* 300 in mint condition which is an absolutely fantastic lens in all ways.
Do not be taken in by Fuji claims with their 300+ focus point etc at the end of the day one focus point is enough if it is accurate and pointed in the right place. Having endless different modes for different moving conditions is fine as long as you are in the correct one at the correct moment!! The Pentax Ibis is far better than the Fuji - I can say that as a former Fuji X-H1 user. Pentax do not put Fn buttons on the end of thumb grips where you activate the button every time you pick up the camera - madness.
My X-T3 is packed ready for sale bring on the new Pentax!!

[Class A]

@wooly11

Nice to see someone's real world report about the differences between Fuji cameras and Pentax cameras.

A certain "review" website owned by Amazon would have you believe that a Fuji is far superior, not in small part because it is using mirrorless technology.

I'm surprised you didn't mention the viewfinder differences. I tried an X-H1 once at a fair and would not want to shoot with such a viewfinder for any extended period of time. Just doesn't come close to an optical viewfinder.

[morenjavi]

Do not be taken in by Fuji claims with their 300+ focus point etc at the end of the day one focus point is enough if it is accurate and pointed in the right place. Having endless different modes for different moving conditions is fine as long as you are in the correct one at the correct moment!! The Pentax Ibis is far better than the Fuji - I can say that as a former Fuji X-H1 user. Pentax do not put Fn buttons on the end of thumb grips where you activate the button every time you pick up the camera - madness.My X-T3 is packed ready for sale bring on the new Pentax!!

Thanks. It's good to know the experience of a real user. It could be just marketing, but everything I read about the XT-3 was so good, the focus engine seemed so superior and adequate, images at ISO 1600 looked better than my K3-II, etc. I was looking for a replacement to my K5, and a Fuji was a good candidate.

Anyway, I can't afford a change to another brand, or having two camera brands, I just can wait for Pentax to release cameras that meet my needs. I really don't have many complaints about my equipment, I just wish my camera had a bit more of IQ, better AF, etc, that kind of things.

[Class A]

...images at ISO 1600 looked better than my K3-II...

Note that Fuji's ISO numbers are inflated.

For instance, the Fuji's X100's "ISO 1600" is just an ISO 1000 in reality whereas Pentax ISO settings are very close to the actual ISO sensitivity.

When comparing images on "review" sites, make sure the exposure settings (f-ratio and shutter speed) are identical. If they are, the Fuji images will appear quite a bit darker at the same ISO setting. Pushing them to the same brightness level will reveal more noise.

[morenjavi]

Note that Fuji's ISO numbers are inflated.

For instance, the Fuji's X100's "ISO 1600" is just an ISO 1000 in reality whereas Pentax ISO settings are very close to the actual ISO sensitivity.

When comparing images on "review" sites, make sure the exposure settings (f-ratio and shutter speed) are identical. If they are, the Fuji images will appear quite a bit darker at the same ISO setting. Pushing them to the same brightness level will reveal more noise.

I was comparing the 'classic' DPReview studio scenes. I don't remember if I downloaded the RAW files, surely I did. X-T3 files seemed better than K3-II, to my eyes. Maybe it's not a fair comparison, The K3-II has not the latest sensor technology and the X-T3 is a very recent model.

I have a kind of 'quality limit' that's around ISO 1000 for my K3-II for well exposed pics. Obviously this limit is subjective. But at such ISOs I still have enough detail, colors still look natural, pictures doesn't look 'washed'.

I the church where I use to work, ambient light is around ISO 800 1/80 f2.8. As the ambient light is a mix of natural and incandescent I just 'solve' the problem by creating my own ambient that is around 3EV above real one (ISO 400 1/160 f4). But during ceremonies there are moments where I can't use flash so I have to deal just with ambient light. I have two f2.8 zooms so I'm still 'in', but I'm just on my 'quality limit' and don't have a lot of room to play, it's easy to get a kid out of focus, I need a bit more f, a bit more speed, a bit more ISO.

So having 1EV more, that is, ISO 1600 with same quality as ISO 800 would be great for me.
About focusing, I mainly use the central point (3 central points in the K3-II are the most precise) and then I focus and recompose. This is a not so good technique, but it works for me. I see the videos about 'eye AF' on the Fuji and it seems like magic: you point initially to a face, and then you compose and forget about the focus, the camera keeps the eye/face in focus. This specific mode would be very convenient for me, I wish Pentax could offer something similar. From @wooly11's comments, it seems that such advanced modes are not so easy to handle.

So this is what I found attractive on the Fuji: more IQ, better AF. Don't like the lack of IBIS and the lack of Pentax hyper-modes. Let's see what Pentax offer on the new camera. I'm not in a hurry, anyway.

[Batman_]

You are basically comparing an old generation sensor against a new generation sensor. A better comparison would be against a K70 or KP. I think then you will find that the Pentax are definitely an equal to Fujifilm, if not better due to the X-trans sensor having a few issues. I have a K3 and a KP and high iso is like night and day in the KP's favour.

Google waxy skin and worms in landscapes and you'll find some of the negative aspects of X trans. I have an X-E1 that I bought cheap to try Fujifilm and the waxy skin at high iso is very evident. Note this is first generation Fujifilm but when the X-E2 was released apparently high iso skin photo's were even worse. If I was a landscape photographer I'd stay clear of Fujifilm while if I was into portraits I'd do some serious research on the waxy skin issue first. Certainly try them if you are interested but do the research is my advice.

[morenjavi]

The KP can be another good candidate to upgrade my K5, but as I usually have a long lens mounted on my K5, I'm not convinced that the KP would be adequate. Battery life is short, and it is important for me.... as Pentax is about to announce the new camera, I'll see what it offers and will decide.
I have been reading about the waxy skin, but up to ISO 1600 I see very good RAW files from the Fuji. ISO 1600 is enough for me, really. The lack of Pentax hyper-modes can be an important factor to not consider a Fuji, anyway.

I'm not going to change to Fuji by the moment , I was just looking for a replacement to any of my cameras, looking here and there. For example I considered the K1 (mk I, reasonable price now for a used one) but discarded it, because I don't have any useful lens in FF, buying a K1 and using it in crop mode? There is also the problem with bigger files of the K1, more processing power, slowler developing, etc. I decided to stay in APS-C.