[John in OZ]

Common problem. This was my recent fix. It might help someone else.
Aim:
Replace battery door static plastic tabs with metal versions
Process:
Disassemble flash rear panel from the flash unit by removing two screws rotating the flash swivel head and two screws at the bottom for the hot-shoe whilst loosening the other two hot shoe screws. The hot-shoe screw holes assembly extends below the case assembly so need to be pulled out and away in order to release flash rear panel.
Manufacture new tabs assembly:
From a discarded cut and opened metal food container cut a flat section of metal sheet about 40mm x 5mm. The tabs will be longer than required.
Bend this to a length of angle along the centre line.
Measure and cut out tabs along one side using the battery compartment tab moulded cut outs as the measurement guide. Use Dremel (or similar) cut off wheel.
Cut the section out between the tabs down into the metal backing plate of the tabs by a small amount to allow assembly to be held by case shoulder for the tabs yet to be cut. Use Dremel cut off wheel and flat file for cleaning the cut surfaces.
Ensure that the newly created metal tabs section fits well against the battery compartment and tabs fit well in the plastic tab indents. The tabs are likely to be a little long at this stage.
Modifying flash rear panel plastic tabs sections:
Changing the Dremel tool to a highspeed cutter. Running at lower speeds so as not to burn the plastic. Cut out the old plastic tabs and up into the flash housing a small amount in order to create a shoulder for the metal tabs to sit against. The depth of these shoulders is the thickness of the battery compartment lip with tab indents plus metal thickness. This presents a mechanism to hold the metal tab assembly in place without the requirement of any adhesives and keeps good structural integrity for the tabs and the flash unit.
Clean cut surfaces with a small file.
Place the metal tabs assembly against the battery compartment whilst assembling the rear panel back in place to the flash unit. Insert screws and tighten firmly.
Whilst gently noting the battery door edge against the tabs very slowly cut / grind the tabs down so that the door internal edge can be close past the metal tabs. Do this slowly as the plastics can easily be over heated.
Insert batteries and your good to go for normal operation.

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[Riggomatic]

I don't own one of these flashes, but wanted to say great job on describing your repair technique.

[UncleVanya]

Better than the tape some use that's for sure.

[FozzFoster]

I've been using a ziptie to keep my AF360FGZ door shut for years..
slides on and off for battery swaps

[barondla]

Common problem. This was my recent fix. It might help someone else.
Aim:
Replace battery door static plastic tabs with metal versions
Process:
Disassemble flash rear panel from the flash unit by removing two screws rotating the flash swivel head and two screws at the bottom for the hot-shoe whilst loosening the other two hot shoe screws. The hot-shoe screw holes assembly extends below the case assembly so need to be pulled out and away in order to release flash rear panel.
Manufacture new tabs assembly:
From a discarded cut and opened metal food container cut a flat section of metal sheet about 40mm x 5mm. The tabs will be longer than required.
Bend this to a length of angle along the centre line.
Measure and cut out tabs along one side using the battery compartment tab moulded cut outs as the measurement guide. Use Dremel (or similar) cut off wheel.
Cut the section out between the tabs down into the metal backing plate of the tabs by a small amount to allow assembly to be held by case shoulder for the tabs yet to be cut. Use Dremel cut off wheel and flat file for cleaning the cut surfaces.
Ensure that the newly created metal tabs section fits well against the battery compartment and tabs fit well in the plastic tab indents. The tabs are likely to be a little long at this stage.
Modifying flash rear panel plastic tabs sections:
Changing the Dremel tool to a highspeed cutter. Running at lower speeds so as not to burn the plastic. Cut out the old plastic tabs and up into the flash housing a small amount in order to create a shoulder for the metal tabs to sit against. The depth of these shoulders is the thickness of the battery compartment lip with tab indents plus metal thickness. This presents a mechanism to hold the metal tab assembly in place without the requirement of any adhesives and keeps good structural integrity for the tabs and the flash unit.
Clean cut surfaces with a small file.
Place the metal tabs assembly against the battery compartment whilst assembling the rear panel back in place to the flash unit. Insert screws and tighten firmly.
Whilst gently noting the battery door edge against the tabs very slowly cut / grind the tabs down so that the door internal edge can be close past the metal tabs. Do this slowly as the plastics can easily be over heated.
Insert batteries and your good to go for normal operation.

Super fix! Metal should make much stronger connection. I'm still surprised at how many people have broken doors. My 540 must be 10 years old and the door is fine. Guess I've been lucky.

Thanks for sharing,
barondla

[rogerstg]

Manufacture new tabs assembly

Very clever and elegant solution.

[photogem]

I have the Af 360FGZ (MKI Version) with the same problem
So either I will try this method or go simple (but strange looking) with the LEGO-Method

[photogem]

I didn't use any of those methods but drilled a 3mm hole into the door, underneath 4,2mm and then inserted/glued in a pressnut
Now a 3mm Allen-screw does the job.

Works well, but opening closing the door needs now a small Allen-key and when I open the door I have to keep holding it down because
the spring-loaded batteries push against the door.

[OneGoodFriend]

Recently, i had the same problem and after reading this thread decide to make my own variation of solution. So these pictures of step-by-step process is how i have done with it. As topic starter i decided to replace old plastic tabs to metal. First of all i bented staples from a paper clip and then glued them in a grooves via epoxy glue. I made these grooves with a dremel with a thin burr bit. All of these staples I whittled away a little bit to reply part. After gluing staples in the grooves i matched their position correctly at non-hardened epoxi yet via against grooves on the reply part and fixed it in this state about 30 minutes, it was an important moment because not all tabs lie at one line, you can see that on pictures. And finish step was a milling a little groove for а reply part of flash shell to fit it correctly. After all of these actions i reassembled flash in a reverse order. So you can see the result of my effort It's perfectly fit to reply part and closing the door correctly tight.

[photogem]

If the epoxy is strong enough this seems to me the best solution.

[OneGoodFriend]

If the epoxy is strong enough this seems to me the best solution.

It's not a just epoxy resin, it's some kind of fast hardening epoxy glue, so i think it should be strong enough. Anyway, time will show

[photogem]

It's not a just epoxy resin, it's some kind of fast hardening epoxy glue, so i think it should be strong enough. Anyway, time will show

There are many different kinds of epoxy, slow hardening (for example for floors and for boats) and fast hardening.
I buy different versions from a boatsupplier and can chose how long it takes to harden.
One must also remember, that "fast hardening" epoxy glue is hard within lets say 5 minutes, but really hard only after 72 hours (room-temperature).
Also one should be super careful about the fumes, if epoxy "stinks", then they are very toxic.
Either outside or with a special mask. Even for such small quantities.

There is odorless epoxy and claimed to be not dangerous.