[Dale H. Cook]

Tuesday while I was making the rounds of Goodwill stores I bought a Vivitar 283 for $4.99! I already own two, modified for 5 volts on the shoe, and with the missing sensors replaced with 12-position miniature rotary switches (they are both used off-camera with wireless triggers). The one I bought Tuesday has the sensor - the first one I have ever had. I am looking forward to modifying the shoe to 5 volts and then trying it on-camera on my K-70. All of my 283s are the original Japanese production that were built with nearly 300 volts on the shoe.

[pentaxus]

Great deal since you know what to do and a reminder to all of us to watch that trigger voltage.

[Dale H. Cook]

I have been a professional electron herder for about 45 years, and began herding them as a hobbyist about 60 years ago, and I have a very well equipped electronics shop (see Star City Antique Radios - The Compact Shop), so my modifications to the Vivitar 283s are easy for me to do. There are some pages on 283 mods online, but some (replacing the sensor with one or two switches) are clumsy and I have a more elegant and compact solution. Others (some hot shoe mods) use parts that are unobtanium whereas my hot shoe and other mods use readily available components.

[Michail_P]

Lucky scored!

[DWS1]

That's almost free.

[Not a Number]

I never find anything worthwhile at Goodwill or pawn shops. Luck of the draw?

Would you mind sharing the schematics of your safety circuit? Or perhaps offer a service for conversion/modification on the MarketPlace?

[Wasp]

I had to look up what a Vivitar 283 is:



Nice one!

[lesmore49]

I have been a professional electron herder for about 45 years, and began herding them as a hobbyist about 60 years ago, and I have a very well equipped electronics shop (see Star City Antique Radios - The Compact Shop), so my modifications to the Vivitar 283s are easy for me to do. There are some pages on 283 mods online, but some (replacing the sensor with one or two switches) are clumsy and I have a more elegant and compact solution. Others (some hot shoe mods) use parts that are unobtanium whereas my hot shoe and other mods use readily available components.

I have a Vivitar 285 HV flash, I've had for many years. Still works well, but I've never put it on one of my digital flashes. Concerned about too much voltage.

Very impressive electrical shop ! Are you an electrical engineer or tech ?

I've got an Innova 3320 Voltmeter and don't know anywhere near how many functions it has or how to use them. That is it as far as electrical equipment I have. What I generally do is go to youtube and see how the function works, when I need to check something out.

[lesmore49]

[double post

[Lhorn]

Just curious, what makes that model so desirable? One can get lots of old Vivitar and Sunpak flashes on Goodwill all day long with no one bidding you up.

[Dale H. Cook]

Very impressive electrical shop ! Are you an electrical engineer or tech ?

I am a (now mostly retired) chief engineer for radio stations.

---------- Post added 12-12-20 at 03:56 AM ----------

Would you mind sharing the schematics of your safety circuit?

I have not shared it yet because such a modification should be attempted only by those with sufficient experience. For those without experience as a professional electronic technician there are add-on hotshoe adapters that will isolate the camera from excessive hotshoe voltages.

---------- Post added 12-12-20 at 03:57 AM ----------

Just curious, what makes that model so desirable?

It has a powerful strobe.

[stevebrot]

Just curious, what makes that model so desirable? One can get lots of old Vivitar and Sunpak flashes on Goodwill all day long with no one bidding you up.

In short, power, configurability, features, and long history as go-to flash for event pros.

I got mine several months ago after harboring a jones that spans a couple of decades. My primary recent motivation was a need for a powerful flash supporting flexible auto-flash. P-TTL is nice, but it under-performs or fails in some roles, particularly with A-series lenses. Auto-flash works with all lenses and all cameras and can also be used remotely in some setups using simple triggers. The Viv 283 excels at auto-flash due to a wide range of supported apertures and distance ranges. It will also compensate for bounce in auto mode.

In terms of configurability, the Viv 283 has been supported by a broad selection of accessory options. For example, I have accessories that allow mine to function as a stand-in for a generic speedlight capable of very high and very low power should I need it. I can also use AC power or modern battery packs if needed.


Steve

[RedRuff]

I just realised I have one of these in my junk box alongside various no-name flashes and slow zooms. I think it ended up there because it came with a (very helpful) note from the seller saying it's a Japanese version and not to try it on newer cameras. I don't think it'd be safe on my ME Super, sadly.

I didn't know it was so well-regarded

[stevebrot]

I don't think it'd be safe on my ME Super, sadly.

It should be safe. The determining factor is whether sync is managed electronically on a printed circuit or directly wired to physical contacts switched by shutter curtain action. Most (almost all) of the flash units in common use when the ME Super was made are higher voltage than is safe on later cameras and should be fine. My understanding has been that the first several generations of Seiko and Copal electronically controlled shutters retained the physical switching. Incompatibility with higher than low trigger voltage is something that was not a concern until at least the late 1980s.

I bought my first Ricoh XR7 (contemporary with the ME Super) in 1982 and used it for years with a little Vivitar 2600 that sports a whopping 160V trigger voltage and continue to use that flash on my film bodies now. The Viv 283 should be safe on your ME Super and the user manual contains no language indicating otherwise.


Steve

[Lord Lucan]

The one I bought Tuesday has the sensor - the first one I have ever had.

I understand there were two types of sensor for the 283, the standard one which gives 4 Auto modes and a single full-blast Manual mode, and an optional sensor that has no Auto modes but does give a choice of manual power levels. Is that correct?

have a Vivitar 285 HV flash, I've had for many years. Still works well, but I've never put it on one of my digital flashes. Concerned about too much voltage.

The 285s with the "HV" suffix are listed as having a safe voltage, but not those without. I'd measure it to be sure. Photo Strobe Trigger Voltages

Just curious, what makes that model so desirable?

I don't really understand it myself. Hearing much about them I looked closer but they did not appeal to me. It is powerful for a hotshoe unit, but the head cannot swivel (but it tilts), there is only one manual power level with the standard sensor, and it offers no camera dedication. It is heavy for a hotshoe, probably why there are stories of the feet breaking - I gather there was a small industry supplying replacement feet. The 285HV looks like an improvement over the 283, but it seems to me that later but similar units (Sunpak 444D perhaps) did things better. I think the 283 got its following because it was early in its field.

That's almost free.

Lately, most film era flash units sold on Ebay etc are almost free. That doesn't stop some sellers wanting silly prices, but it is easy to find good units in the £5-15 range. For example a Pentax AF280T* sold for £4.99 the other day, two more for £9. It's crazy.

* With Pentax dedication and only half a stop less GN than the 283