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12-23-2020, 07:34 AM   #1
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Suggestions for good manual battery powered strobes?

I have a number of cactus speed lights, and I'm at a point now where I'd like to try some more powerful strobes that can power a 4 or 6 foot soft box. I have 0 need for TTL, I love manual flashes. Sadly cactus never got their strobe unit out. Right now I'm thinking about some of the godox, the inferit honey badger or the paul bluff AlienBees. Looking to use these mostly for portraits and still lifes. Budget is a big concern. I like buying good gear but need to temper my budget, some of the godox units seem quite expensive, especially when you start adding accessories.

12-23-2020, 07:59 AM   #2
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Of the brands you mentioned, only Godox (Flashpoint) supports HSS for Pentax.

I agree with you that one does not need TLL, but having access to HSS can be really useful, in case a certain aperture range is only achievable with shutter speeds higher than 1/180s or 1/200s (K-1 (II)). The alternative would be to use neutral density filters, but I personally find these to be very inconvenient regarding focusing, composition, let alone that some lenses like the FA 31/1.8 Ltd do not permit the use of step up rings (a typical strategy is to buy one larger ND filter and then use step up rings accordingly to use the one filter on many lenses).

The Godox AD200 (Pro), or its Flashpoint equivalents, is very compact, powerful (~2.5 regular speedlights), and with its bare bulb option is suited to nicely fill even larger modifiers. It fits the Godox S-type bracket which allows one to use any Bowens mount light modifier.
12-23-2020, 08:30 AM   #3
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I also suggest the Godox AD 200s as well. In fact one is on the way now from B&H.
12-23-2020, 12:05 PM   #4
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All I can say is that I am surprised by the good build quality of Godox for the price!

12-23-2020, 01:46 PM   #5
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QuoteOriginally posted by Class A Quote
Of the brands you mentioned, only Godox (Flashpoint) supports HSS for Pentax.

I agree with you that one does not need TLL, but having access to HSS can be really useful, in case a certain aperture range is only achievable with shutter speeds higher than 1/180s or 1/200s (K-1 (II)). The alternative would be to use neutral density filters, but I personally find these to be very inconvenient regarding focusing, composition, let alone that some lenses like the FA 31/1.8 Ltd do not permit the use of step up rings (a typical strategy is to buy one larger ND filter and then use step up rings accordingly to use the one filter on many lenses).

The Godox AD200 (Pro), or its Flashpoint equivalents, is very compact, powerful (~2.5 regular speedlights), and with its bare bulb option is suited to nicely fill even larger modifiers. It fits the Godox S-type bracket which allows one to use any Bowens mount light modifier.
That's an interesting option for sure. I was at a shoot recently, where my Cactus RF60s were keeping up, but I had to run them at 1/4 power, and even then I could have used more light to stop down a bit more. (I don't like going over about 1/4 with them to keep re-cycle times low and battery life long.)

I don't really use HSS. I learned how to use it well on the Cactus, but after an initial "hey neat" period, I almost always am setting my camera to the xsync (I think 1/180 on the k3?) and shooting indoors or other dim locations where I can control light completely. That said, the option is nice. The Godox system is not cheap though, hrm.
12-23-2020, 09:08 PM   #6
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I bought a used Pentax FG 360, the original version, for lees than $100.
12-24-2020, 08:14 AM   #7
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QuoteOriginally posted by DWS1 Quote
I bought a used Pentax FG 360, the original version, for lees than $100.
Yeah, I already have a number of speedlights, I'm looking to get some bigger studio lights that'll drive a big soft box. I think I'll drop the battery requirement, if I go for a Godox SK300II now, it's a lot of light, and if I ever go bigger later it'll still be a useful addition. The SK300II is under $100 USD, super reasonable compared to the AD line.

12-26-2020, 05:45 AM - 1 Like   #8
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If you want Godox, I would recommend going with the Adorama Flashpoint versions. Better warranty, customer service and tech support.
12-26-2020, 06:11 AM - 1 Like   #9
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QuoteOriginally posted by bobbotron Quote
I have a number of cactus speed lights, and I'm at a point now where I'd like to try some more powerful strobes that can power a 4 or 6 foot soft box...
A different approach may be to use the existing speedlights with a softbox system capable of accommodating several flashes. The Pro series by Lastolite is just fine (but costly...) - with its standard bracket for 2 flashes, and some of the ocataboxes taking up to 4 flashes.
And supplementing your Cactus flashes with external battery packs (from Cactus, Canon, whatever) would constitute a lighting setup powerful enough to compare with a 300-Ws battery strobe (if using 4 Cactus speedlights). Should be ample unless shooting in midday sun.
12-28-2020, 10:22 AM   #10
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QuoteOriginally posted by Alvage Quote
A different approach may be to use the existing speedlights with a softbox system capable of accommodating several flashes.
Yes, that can work very well.

A Photek Softlighter II, for instance, with two Cactus RF60 works very well.

The only downside, particularly when using powerpacks, is the need for many AA cells.
12-28-2020, 11:58 AM   #11
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The AD200 seems the better option price/quality: as powerfull as 3 flashes, portable, lot of accesories...But if budget is a concern, you can look at used AD-180/AD-360. I still have a AD-360. Yes, it's not as modern as the AD200 or AD400, not TTL, no modeling lamp... you have just a bare bulb. But it's a powerfull light and maybe you can find one in good condition for a good price. Mine is still working fine. You can fill any softbox with that.


Regards.
12-30-2020, 07:47 PM   #12
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I think I'll go for the budget corded strobe. After looking into it a bit I can get a SK300II ($80), a light stand plus a 4' octabox for $240 USD, whereas the AD200 is $300 or more, and then you still need to spend money on modifiers. My budget is pretty real, and I'm mostly interested in doing portraits and studio / indoor work at the moment.
12-30-2020, 09:39 PM - 2 Likes   #13
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Buying strobes is not an easy decision. Unless you got deep pockets, strobes are things you buy that will last you for years, not upgrade every few years like you do with cameras. Godox is the thing these days, but from the look of things, you might get stuck purchasing Godox accessories only. Keep that in mind before deciding to pluck down your hard earned dollars.

Paul C Buff Alien Bees and especially their "Einsteins" are very good time-tested strobes. They can be powered by regular AC and can also be powered by relatively cheap Vagabond Power packs, so you can take them anywhere. They have tons of accessories and can be even outfitted with third-party accessories, so you are not only stuck with just one manufacturer. If you want tough and I mean tough every day strobes, you can't go wrong with Norman strobes, or Broncolor. These strobes are made to get beat-up on a daily basis and keep on ticking, although Norman is mostly known for their power-pack units. The important thing when looking for strobes is color-balance, light modifiers, ruggedness, recycling speed and flash duration.

Some strobes like my Photogenic AKG 320's can only muster about 1/250 flash duration at 1/2 power, which means they are better for portraits. The good thing about them is that they output beautiful color balanced light, perfect for portraits. The shorter the flash duration, the better you are able to stop action, (like models jumping up and down) without causing a blur. Color balance means that whenever you decide to change the power level on a unit, the the color temperature of that unit does not change. This can save you huge headaches in Post Processing. If you are just shooting home portraits then a 320-400 Watt strobe will do. However, if you want to add a bunch of modifiers, or you want to shoot large groups on location, you might need something a little more powerful. To me an 800 Watt strobe is overkill for home portraits, your neighbors might think a flying-saucer landed in your living room.

Last edited by hjoseph7; 12-30-2020 at 09:47 PM.
12-31-2020, 07:59 AM   #14
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QuoteOriginally posted by bobbotron Quote
Yeah, I already have a number of speedlights, I'm looking to get some bigger studio lights that'll drive a big soft box. I think I'll drop the battery requirement, if I go for a Godox SK300II now, it's a lot of light, and if I ever go bigger later it'll still be a useful addition. The SK300II is under $100 USD, super reasonable compared to the AD line.
Keep your eyes open for older studio lighting if you are willing to buy used. I'm still using the same set of Photogenic lights that I bought in 1995. It's an 800 WS 4 light kit. I am usually using 24" aluminium dish reflectors on it. I use a diffuser on the fill and either nothing or a grid on the main, and snoot the hair light and background light as needed. All metal modifiers, so they are big to store and haul.

I have a couple of modifiers that I got last century called "Moonlights". They are big, round modifiers. I think one is 3 feet, the other 5 feet. With a bare bulb they give very even light with a single head. They are great for large product, but the light is too flat for a lot of stuff.

I was told at a photography seminar that it was sometimes desirable to use more than one head in oversized modifiers if really even light was required, especially if the modifier was close to the subject. They can have hot spots. I've never used one, but I suspect a big strip light would be a candidate for multiple heads.

I use bare bulb in softboxes, which makes the light more even. I turn the modelling lights off after adjusting the lights, and never leave them on for very long. A bare bulb can burn a fabric modifier if the modeling lights are on. It can happen surprisingly quickly.
I haven't used a fabric box since I went digital. I would try using no modelling lights at all now, and just using the review screen.
If you can use an LED as a modeling light, this isn't a concern. Some of the old lights used an A21 Edison bulb for the modelling lights. They are easy to get as LEDs.
01-03-2021, 07:02 PM - 1 Like   #15
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QuoteOriginally posted by bobbotron Quote
I think I'll go for the budget corded strobe. After looking into it a bit I can get a SK300II ($80)...
Just me, but if you're happy to go low-end manual / no HSS, voltage-controlled AC Godox strobe with no autodumping , I'd highly recommend looking at the slightly more expensive ($110) but newer MS300 vs. the older SK300 II. It's more compact, recycles faster (110V, full power 1.8s vs. 2.5s), goes down to 1/32 power, not just 1/16, and can have its power controlled in 1/10 EV increments. It's basically an updated SK300 II.

There's also a $95 MS200.

Also feel like pointing out that if you did want all the bells and whistles and basically just wanted a V1that never goes on-camera, the upcoming AD100 Pro looks to be that and the size of a soda can.

Last edited by inkista; 01-03-2021 at 07:11 PM.
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