Forgot Password
Pentax Camera Forums Home
 

Reply
Show Printable Version Search this Thread
03-30-2021, 06:12 PM   #1
Forum Member




Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 77
Vivitar df 383 flash?

Staff note: This post may contain affiliate links, which means Pentax Forums may earn a small commission if a visitor clicks through and makes a purchase. If you would like to support the forum directly, you may also make a donation here.


Has anybody here use this flash before? I am looking at it for my K1000. Is it good and does it have auto Thyristor?

Thanks

03-30-2021, 08:12 PM   #2
Otis Memorial Pentaxian
stevebrot's Avatar

Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Vancouver (USA)
Photos: Gallery | Albums
Posts: 42,007
The df 383 is a TTL flash and was made to support several different systems. It does not feature flash-based "Auto" (auto thyristor).


Steve
03-30-2021, 08:37 PM   #3
Forum Member




Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Posts: 89
A good choice would be the Vivitar 283, or the 285 flash, with available accessories. Yes auto and auto thyristor, with sensor on the flash, not TTL, the ideal unit for the era camera mentioned.
03-31-2021, 05:34 AM   #4
Pentaxian
Lord Lucan's Avatar

Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: South Wales
Photos: Gallery
Posts: 2,978
QuoteOriginally posted by yozza Quote
Has anybody here use this flash before? I am looking at it for my K1000. Is it good and does it have auto Thyristor?

Thanks
A K1000 and a Vivitar DF-383 sound like a serious technical mis-match. The K1000 cannot use the DF-383's best features, and the DF-383 will expect the K1000 to have features it does not possess. The combination will be usable but crippled.

You would be better with a flash unit of the K1000's own era, one that has both an Auto mode (flash has its own sensor) and a manual mode. Good ones can be found cheap as chips on Ebay.

03-31-2021, 06:31 AM   #5
Senior Member
Dale H. Cook's Avatar

Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Roanoke, VA
Posts: 174
QuoteOriginally posted by climbmountainway Quote
A good choice would be the Vivitar 283, or the 285 flash, with available accessories. Yes auto and auto thyristor, with sensor on the flash, not TTL, the ideal unit for the era camera mentioned.
Be aware that a lot of Vivitar 283 and 285 flashes sold on eBay and elsewhere are missing the thyristor module.
03-31-2021, 05:50 PM   #6
Forum Member




Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 77
Original Poster
QuoteOriginally posted by climbmountainway Quote
A good choice would be the Vivitar 283, or the 285 flash, with available accessories. Yes auto and auto thyristor, with sensor on the flash, not TTL, the ideal unit for the era camera mentioned.
Thanks

---------- Post added 03-31-21 at 05:52 PM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by Dale H. Cook Quote
Be aware that a lot of Vivitar 283 and 285 flashes sold on eBay and elsewhere are missing the thyristor module.
I see ones advertised there for the 285 as zoom thyristor? Is that different
03-31-2021, 05:55 PM   #7
Moderator
Not a Number's Avatar

Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Venice, CA
Posts: 10,526
The sensor module is the round knob on the front. If it is missing or removed there will be a socket. All the current US listings I just checked have the module.

03-31-2021, 05:59 PM   #8
Forum Member




Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 77
Original Poster
QuoteOriginally posted by Not a Number Quote
The sensor module is the round knob on the front. If it is missing or removed there will be a socket. All the current US listings I just checked have the module.
Ok so that’s good. I just need to see what zoom thyristor means, versus auto thyristor to be ok. Thanks
04-01-2021, 02:22 AM   #9
Moderator
Not a Number's Avatar

Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Venice, CA
Posts: 10,526
Just to clarify thyristor is the circuitry that shunts the unused power back to the flash capacitor instead of dumping it. This increases the number of shots per battery and shortens recycle time. The module on the 283 and 285 is actually the light sensor and not the actual thyristor circuit which is inside the flash body. Without the sensor in place the flash fires always at full power.

The major difference between the 283 and 285 is that the 285 has a built-in "zoom" head to change the field of coverage of the flash - narrow for telephoto, wider for wide angle lenses. On the 283 you have to buy a separate lens/filter adapter and variable angle lens kit. Both the 283 and 285 have thyristor circuits.

From the 285 manual:

Last edited by Not a Number; 04-01-2021 at 02:35 AM.
04-01-2021, 06:25 AM   #10
Pentaxian
Lord Lucan's Avatar

Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: South Wales
Photos: Gallery
Posts: 2,978
QuoteOriginally posted by Not a Number Quote
The major difference between the 283 and 285 is that the 285 has a built-in "zoom" head
Is there not also a difference that in manual mode the 285 allows several power levels while the 283 only allows full power? - unless you buy an extra module for it *. Having to buy and swap modules for a function I'd expect to be built-in seems a bit weird to me but perhaps reflects how old the design was. The similar but rival Sunpak 383 Super does it better IMHO, and it has a safe voltage.

Beware of putting a Vivitar 283 on a modern camera, the earlier ones have a high trigger voltage which could damage it (but a K1000 would not be affected) and it is a lottery as to which version you get. The Vivitar 285HV is safe I understand, but not the plain 285 without the "HV" (which does not seem to mean "high voltage", quite the opposite!)

* One on Ebay now for £20, more than the units themselves usually sell for. Vivitar VP-1 Varipower Module - For Vivitar 283 Flashgun - Clean & Tested | eBay
04-01-2021, 06:31 AM   #11
Senior Member
Dale H. Cook's Avatar

Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Roanoke, VA
Posts: 174
I would note, as I have often noted here and elsewhere, that I own a few Vivitar 283s which I use only in manual mode. I modify them to put 5 VDC on the shoe and for 12 manually selected flash durations. This is something that only a highly experienced electronic technician should try, as there is still about 300 VDC inside the case. I do not do this for others because at my shop labor rate you could probably buy a new flash for less than I would have to charge.
04-01-2021, 08:02 AM   #12
Moderator
Not a Number's Avatar

Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Venice, CA
Posts: 10,526
QuoteOriginally posted by Lord Lucan Quote
The Vivitar 285HV is safe I understand, but not the plain 285 without the "HV" (which does not seem to mean "high voltage", quite the opposite!)
Most of the "plain" 285s are safe. The one I bought in the 80s measures out at the voltage of the batteries I put in it. The 285HV and 283 accepts a High Voltage battery pack HVP-1 (510v battery) that by-passes the voltage step-up circuitry to give faster recycle times. It would be curious to measure the trigger voltage on when using the HV power supply. The 285 can use the Low Voltage Battery Pack (LVP-2) which uses D cell batteries..




Seems like we've had this discussion of sorts before
Old external flashes safe to use on K-S2? - Page 2 - PentaxForums.com
04-01-2021, 09:38 AM   #13
Pentaxian
Lord Lucan's Avatar

Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: South Wales
Photos: Gallery
Posts: 2,978
So the "HV" of some 285s mean they can be used with a high voltage battery pack; that solves something that had been puzzling me. And although only those particular 285s could be used with the HV battery pack, all 283s could - a bit surprising as the 285s otherwise had more features.
QuoteOriginally posted by Not a Number Quote
It would be curious to measure the trigger voltage on when using the HV power supply.
As those instructions say that you must still have the four AAs in the unit to operate the sync circuit, even when a HV supply is plugged in, I would imagine it makes no difference. I think I would still check though.
04-01-2021, 09:58 AM   #14
Senior Member
Dale H. Cook's Avatar

Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Roanoke, VA
Posts: 174
QuoteOriginally posted by Not a Number Quote
Seems like we've had this discussion of sorts before
We have had variants of this discussion in a number of threads, but they usually concern DSLR users who want to use a vintage flash - this one is from the opposite direction. I use modified 283s with my K-70 as external flashes. At 2,900 BCPS they are powerful enough for my purposes.
04-01-2021, 07:27 PM   #15
Forum Member




Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 77
Original Poster
QuoteOriginally posted by Not a Number Quote
Just to clarify thyristor is the circuitry that shunts the unused power back to the flash capacitor instead of dumping it. This increases the number of shots per battery and shortens recycle time. The module on the 283 and 285 is actually the light sensor and not the actual thyristor circuit which is inside the flash body. Without the sensor in place the flash fires always at full power.

The major difference between the 283 and 285 is that the 285 has a built-in "zoom" head to change the field of coverage of the flash - narrow for telephoto, wider for wide angle lenses. On the 283 you have to buy a separate lens/filter adapter and variable angle lens kit. Both the 283 and 285 have thyristor circuits.

From the 285 manual:
Thankyou very helpful!

---------- Post added 04-01-21 at 07:33 PM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by Lord Lucan Quote
Is there not also a difference that in manual mode the 285 allows several power levels while the 283 only allows full power? - unless you buy an extra module for it *. Having to buy and swap modules for a function I'd expect to be built-in seems a bit weird to me but perhaps reflects how old the design was. The similar but rival Sunpak 383 Super does it better IMHO, and it has a safe voltage.

Beware of putting a Vivitar 283 on a modern camera, the earlier ones have a high trigger voltage which could damage it (but a K1000 would not be affected) and it is a lottery as to which version you get. The Vivitar 285HV is safe I understand, but not the plain 285 without the "HV" (which does not seem to mean "high voltage", quite the opposite!)

Thankyou very helpful

* One on Ebay now for £20, more than the units themselves usually sell for. Vivitar VP-1 Varipower Module - For Vivitar 283 Flashgun - Clean & Tested | eBay
Thanks very helpful
Reply

Bookmarks
  • Submit Thread to Facebook Facebook
  • Submit Thread to Twitter Twitter
  • Submit Thread to Digg Digg
Tags - Make this thread easier to find by adding keywords to it!
angle, auto, ebay, flash, lighting, module, photo studio, power, sensor, strobist, thyristor, vivitar, vivitar df

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Vivitar DF-383-PEN flash no workee w/K-30, works fine on K-x kodai84 Pentax K-30 & K-50 4 01-27-2014 11:40 PM
Help! Vivitar DF-383-PEN Not Working! Martowski Flashes, Lighting, and Studio 2 12-08-2013 08:29 PM
Vivitar DF-383-PEN with K-30 DavidH Flashes, Lighting, and Studio 2 01-05-2013 07:17 AM
My New Vivitar DF-383 Working on K-r Correctly? Martowski Flashes, Lighting, and Studio 2 06-19-2012 10:31 AM
K5 and vivitar DF-383-PEN Gilles70 Pentax K-5 & K-5 II 2 10-25-2011 04:17 AM



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 05:22 AM. | See also: NikonForums.com, CanonForums.com part of our network of photo forums!
  • Red (Default)
  • Green
  • Gray
  • Dark
  • Dark Yellow
  • Dark Blue
  • Old Red
  • Old Green
  • Old Gray
  • Dial-Up Style
Hello! It's great to see you back on the forum! Have you considered joining the community?
register
Creating a FREE ACCOUNT takes under a minute, removes ads, and lets you post! [Dismiss]
Top