[Liney]

I've been toying with getting a bigger lighting set up, and the local website for private sales flagged up a bargain of a studio lit including three Glanz 160 Di heads for $20.

I snapped it up and having checked the heads all work I'm looking at how I can trigger them from the camera. Unfortunately there was no flash trigger in the kit, there are a couple of long sync leads and from what I can gather the flash headas can be triggered if they detect another flash, but apart from that I'm still looking for information.

Does anyone have any experience of these flash heads, and can provide me with any information, feedback or things to watch out for.

Cheers

[GQPhdFBI]

I've been toying with getting a bigger lighting set up, and the local website for private sales flagged up a bargain of a studio lit including three Glanz 160 Di heads for $20.

I snapped it up and having checked the heads all work I'm looking at how I can trigger them from the camera. Unfortunately there was no flash trigger in the kit, there are a couple of long sync leads and from what I can gather the flash headas can be triggered if they detect another flash, but apart from that I'm still looking for information.

Does anyone have any experience of these flash heads, and can provide me with any information, feedback or things to watch out for.

Cheers

Those Glanz 160 Di were on sell as a kit which included a radio trigger (you cannot find it since they never sold it separately) . Maybe you can ask them if it is available somewhere and forgot to include it (doubt it).
Any wireless trigger/slave set will work with them, or if you don't mind using cables, pc sync cords will do the job.

[inkista]

No experience, but those look like a dead ringer for the Godox Mini Master 160Di, so I'd assume it's just a rebrand. User manual here.

Those lights, AFAIK, have no built-in radio triggering, so you'd have to cable any radio triggers you use to the 3.5mm sync port, and that means manual-only triggers that can only communicate sync. But. You could probably use whatever radio triggers you want. Yongnuo RF-603 II, RF-605, or the Flashpoint SPT transceivers spring to mind as decent cheap 3rd-party manual radio triggers you could use. You'd use one unit on the camera hotshoe as a transmitter/master, and additional units as receivers cabled to the strobes. The cables you'd need would depend on what the sync connectors are on the triggers. With YN RF-603 II use a PC sync connector, so you'd need PC-3.5mm cables for them; the SPT use 3.5mm sync, so a mono audio 3.5mm cable would work for those.

You could also use the built in optical-slave, which would probably require that the "master" burst be in M, not TTL (metering preburst will set it off early). And there has to be line of sight from the sensor (which is on the back control panel) to the master signal (e.g., a pop-up flash).

The main drawbacks to the Mini Master and Mini Pioneer are that they're underpowered, and they don't really have a proper (bayonet) modifier mount. This is a listing for a Flashpoint rebrand of a Mini Pioneer, its modifiers/speedring will probably work on your lights. Most folks prefer the Godox lights that use a Bowens S mount on the front, have more power output, and have a built-in radio trigger that offers remote group/power/modeling light control (e.g., the MS300). And if they're like the other Godox AC-powered manual strobes, they don't autodump (i.e., if you lower the power setting, you'll need to discharge the capacitor (hit the test button) to actually get the light to the lower power setting) before taking a shot.