[pentaxian_tmb]

A less expensive alternative to the Godox flashes and trigger would be a pair of Yongnuo YN585EX TTL flashes for Pentax. These are currently $90 each on Amazon. With the AF360FGZ in the camera's hot shoe, one can optically fire the Yongnuos in TTL or manual mode.

Thanks. I also noticed there are some nice used AF 540s out there. The Godox looks really nice. Worried about learning it in a couple of weeks.

[gatorguy]

I really agree with Sandy, bounce off the ceiling and go with that. I don't think going out and buying a bunch of flash equipment and learning how to use it in three weeks is going to happen, unless you have nothing else to do. Plus I can't see how you would have the space and time to set it up during a party, especially in a house. This is the opinion of someone who is not a flash expert. I used to do a lot of group portraits in my job. There was never any time to set up any kind of lighting, so it was usually all natural. The instances of using a flash was when we were in buildings with low ceilings to bounce it, outside with the sun behind the subject (seldom), or a small enough group where the flash was effective with enough ambient lighting to get the items (usually products) in the background. Sometimes I had to settle for high ISO photos, but they were always good enough for the recipients.

Absolutely! Directing everyone to one static spot with an off-camera lighting setup for all party photos will be inconvenient at best, and in truth probably not manageable. A party invites in-the-moment photos. Bouncing a flash as suggested is simple, requires minimal planning, and very effective.

A little sidenote too: If you're wanting to light a small group in front of you and there's a clean wall behind you, try flipping your flash backwards instead. The light may be more even than bouncing forward. Try it and see.

[gatorguy]

Thanks. I also noticed there are some nice used AF 540s out there. The Godox looks really nice. Worried about learning it in a couple of weeks.

I swapped over from the AF360 and 540's to Godox some time ago. The Godox on-camera flashes like the V1's and 860's (the ver.III is interesting) are far faster to recycle, have more available light-modifying accessories, and really simple to use. Oh, and they also cost less

[Bad Boy]

I would use the 50mm f1.4 or 35mm f2 for wider shots. Use larger apertures to blur background, f 1.4 to 2.8. Try some wide open, then try some stopped down one or two stops to get more sharpness. Pay attention to the background. Try to get close to subject and have subject located as far as possible from an uncluttered background. Arrange multiple subjects equal distance from the camera so all are in focus.

If light is low try TAV mode, set wide aperture and shutter speed to about 1/45th, slowest speed to avoid motion blur, let the ISO vary. Hold camera carefully still. Take multiple shots as some may blur at slower shutter speeds.

Then use the picture window for light. Turn on light fixtures in the room. Also you could try outdoors. Not in direct sunlight, uncluttered background, subject separated from background.

I try to avoid flash. It makes things complicated in a non studio setting unless you have your technique down. If using flash bounce off ceiling and set up so the flash is weak, just adding a bit of fill light. This will look more natural. The flash you have can do this with good technique.

Practice before hand to figure out which techniques work for you.

[pentaxian_tmb]

Problem is that my inlaws house is an older, smaller house with poor lighting and just one huge picture window that faces a street lined by trees.....so it is a very challenging environment. I have been shooting family pictures in there--birthdays, christmas, mothers/fathers day for 15 years--both handheld candids and large group shots-- and have yet to achieve a nice nice exposure that doesn't need to be fixed in post--esp hard to get it uncluttered with group shots because I wind up with three rows of people (sitting on the floor, sitting in chairs, and standing), that are jammed between the sofa and the table by the picture window.


Here is an example of the general craptastic and challenging lighting conditions in the main room at my inlaws.




I have been able to get some decent up close shots if there is good daylight and using a flash




But large group shots are nigh well impossible in here---but its the only space I have to work with.

[West Penn]

Here is an example of the general craptastic and challenging lighting conditions in the main room at my inlaws.

[

But large group shots are nigh well impossible in here---but its the only space I have to work with.

How was the flash used in the group photo? With the settings you used and the flash pointed at the people seated, you should have gotten a reasonable exposure in PTTL mode. To me, looking at the exposure outside the house in comparison to those in the room, it doesn't look like the flash contributed anything to the exposure.

[C_Jones]

Thanks for the response. COuple of follow up questions. 1. WHat can the Godox V1 do that the AF360 fgz cannot do? 2. How difficult is the godox v1 to use/set up with the k5ii ? 3. If I use the godox, can I set up the AF360 off camera to fire in slave mode or based on the light from the on camera flash?

I noticed you have had a lot of responses. To answer your questions, The Godox V1 will give you more light, the longevity of the battery life of the V1 will give you far more dependable power, the V1 will operate with the K-5 IIs and you can set up the AF360FGZ to fire in optical slave mode (firing based on the light from the camera flash) with the V1 on camera if you would like to..

After seeing some of your responses to the questions, using the V1 on camera by itself with the dome diffuser may be an excellent solution for a lot of your needs of light. The important thing is that it would be efficient in a lot of situations. Another thing is that you have to make sure you know how to use it (V1). It is not difficult to use, but actually getting it, using it, and seeing the results you get from it will tell you what your preferences are and what settings you feel comfortable with. I had three AF360FGZs and they were what I learned a lot on, but the V1 will show you what it is like to shoot with excellent results and long lasting battery power. If I were you I would purchase the V1 and the dome diffuser and learn how to use by itself the way you feel comfortable with it. If you are not ready to use it for the first event you mentioned, you can approach the first event with your AF360FGZ.

If you do purchase the Godox V1 for Pentax, it will be a step that will advance your capability as a user. It is capable of firing other off camera Godox lights by itself as a transmitter as I mentioned in my first post, so if you decided to bring your off camera interests to a reliable level, you could purchase another V1 or other Godox light to accompany your original V1.

For now, to make it simple, I will tell you that I switched from the AF360FGZ and Yongnuo AA battery flashes to the Godox V1 and other Godox lights to have a dependable and excellent system and that is actually what it is. In your situation, I would recommend that you purchase the Godox V1 and go from there. You won't be disappointed. I think you will love it. When you get it you can test it on family and friends and you will see how nice of a tool it is. You can get the dome diffuser also and soften your light some with it if you want to.

To give you an idea of what using the V1 is like, I have placed a shortcut below to a video that shows the basic functions of the Godox V1. Using it on camera by itself is much more simple than using it as a transmitter for other Godox lights, but using it as a transmitter or off camera is something that can be learned too. An example would be that for simple operation for on camera single flash use, using it in Normal flash mode would be where you would start, and on that mode screen you would be able to switch between Manual and TTL and adjust your power. That screen is explained in the first minute or so of the tutorial video.

If you do purchase, make sure to get the Godox V1 for Pentax (specifically for Pentax).

Though others may recommend options other than the V1, I think it would be a valuable asset to satisfy what you have expressed as your needs.

You Tube

You Tube

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Last edited by C_Jones; 06-05-2022 at 04:41 PM.

[Sandy Hancock]

But large group shots are nigh well impossible in here---but its the only space I have to work with.

Thanks for providing some sample images.
I'd say your 360 is simply underpowered. As I said earlier, I have had decent results with my 540 in similar circumstances, but the Godox looks like it might be an even better option.

[Bad Boy]

The large group photo is under exposed. With the bright light fixtures in the shot, turn the exposure compensation up. Turn the exposure up in post and adjust color balance cooler. Try zooming in to crop tighter.

The second picture try standing closer to the widow and rotate subject toward you. Shoot without flash. So subjects are lit from window and you have a darker background.

[West Penn]

If you end up choosing the Godox V1, you may want to consider buying from Adorama. They market the same flash under their store brand -- Flashpoint --and they warrant the Flashpoint brand themselves. B&H may do the same with the Godox flashes they sell, but i'm not sure about that. With other sellers you may need to send the flash to China for warranty repair.

[West Penn]

I have some Pentax, Yonguno, and Godox/Flashpoint speedlights, but not the Godox V1. So, in light of this thread, I though I'd take a closer look. One thing that caught my attention was that Godox doesn't seem to provide a Guide Number for the flash, but instead gives a Watt Second rating that is typical when describing studio strobes. After some digging, I found that the V1 has a Guide Number of 28 meters at ISO 100 and 50mm zoom (see https://www.camera-gear.com/product/godox-v1-flash-for-panasonic-and-olympus). By comparison, the Pentax AF360FGZ has a slightly higher Guide Number of 33 at ISO 100 and 48mm zoom, according to its flash manual. The AF540FGZ is about a stop more powerful having a Guide Number of 50 at ISO 100 and 48mm zoom.

[C_Jones]

The Godox V1 for Pentax has a Limited 2-Year B&H Warranty, 76Ws output, PTTL (Pentax TTL), a removable 2600mAh lithium-ion battery that gives up to 480 full-power flashes on a charge (comes with charger), high speed sync, recycles to full power in 1.5 seconds, supports front and rear-curtain sync, can act as either a transmitter or receiver when in use with other Godox flash units, a modeling light, a swivel head that is round, and more. If you use less than full power while shooting, you will get more than 480 shots. It is an excellent, advanced level flash, and it is not difficult to use. It also comes with a nice little case, and stand that can either allow you to put the flash on a flat surface by itself or since the stand has a threaded hole on the bottom of it, you can secure it on a light stand with the flash on top for shooting off camera.

[wadge22]

WHat can the Godox V1 do that the AF360 fgz cannot do?

The Godox V1 will give you more light...

After some digging, I found that the V1 has a Guide Number of 28 meters at ISO 100 and 50mm zoom (see https://www.camera-gear.com/product/godox-v1-flash-for-panasonic-and-olympus). By comparison, the Pentax AF360FGZ has a slightly higher Guide Number of 33 at ISO 100 and 48mm zoom

I wonder if rushing out to get a new flash, or particularly that new flash, may wind up in disappointment for OP. It sounds like techniques are what need improved, not the equipment. I shouldn't think that situation calls for a super high powered flash, which in any case the V1 doesn't seem to be an example of. Note I'm not saying there's anything wrong with the V1, I have no experience with it.


Is there something wrong with the Pentax unit, that it's giving such underexposed results with the K5iiS, while seemingly working fine with the GR? Perhaps something wrong with the settings or with the communication with the camera? As West Penn pointed out, that group photo looks as though the flash did nothing at all. I have a less powerful flash than the 360FGZ (and the V1), a Metz 26 AF2, and in my experience it can provide more light than we see in that exposure.

[gatorguy]

Not that I needed another speedlight with two V1's and a first-gen V860 already, but the latest version III 860 looked compelling. So ordered and now in hand. It is a nice unit with improved controls and hot-shoe mount, the modeling light may have some use coupled with improved focus assist, and for simplicity all speedlights can share batteries*.

*noting the latest is now the higher-power V26A included with the 860 III, up from 2.6 Ah/18.72Wh on the VB26, to 3.0Ah/21.6Wh on the A version.

[C_Jones]

Not that I needed another speedlight with two V1's and a first-gen V860 already, but the latest version III 860 looked compelling. So ordered and now in hand. It is a nice unit with improved controls and hot-shoe mount, the modeling light may have some use coupled with improved focus assist, and for simplicity all speedlights can share batteries*.

*noting the latest is now the higher-power V26A included with the 860 III, up from 2.6 Ah/18.72Wh on the VB26, to 3.0Ah/21.6Wh on the A version.

Congratulations on your new flash.