[axl]

Hi everybody,

sorry but I have flash question again.
I saw these two (283 & 285) flashes from Vivitar. Not new but in good condition. I did try to do some research but I couldn't find much, mostly recommendations/complains by users - most of the users were really behind 285. But I still couldn't find decent info on the flashes themselves.

So, can somebody help me out here?
what is the main difference between 283 & 285? What are the auto settings on them? What are the manual settings on them? How do they compare to Pentax AF280T, AF400FTZ and AF360FGZ?
and are they safe for Kxx/xxxD series cameras?

Sorry to bother, but I'd really appreciate any help, links, info whatever....

TIA

BR
Peter

[Ben_Edict]

So, can somebody help me out here?
what is the main difference between 283 & 285? What are the auto settings on them? What are the manual settings on them? How do they compare to Pentax AF280T, AF400FTZ and AF360FGZ?

The main difference, to my knowledge, is the zoom head on the 285, whereas the 283 has a fixed head with an illumination angle for 35mm lenses (on 35mm cameras, so about 24mm lens on an APS-C).

It has 4 auto-settings (at ISO 100 that's apertures 2.8-4-8-11 - no idea, why they left out the 5.6) and a full M anual setting.

The head on the 283 is tilt (up and down), but not swivel.

and are they safe for Kxx/xxxD series cameras?

That depends on the age and serial number of the flash. My 283 is safe with a trigger voltage of 5-6V, but I have read posts, where people measured up to 300V - which may kill your camera's circuit. Especially with a used flash, you need to measure the unit yourself, before using it.

In my experience (bought the 283 new some ten years ago) it is:
- very reliable and robust
- A-settings are reliable and reproducable
- the light is nice and not overly blue

I also love the extension cord. It is fairly unique: You take the sensor out of its slot on the front of the lens and place it in the holder at the hot shoe end of the extension cord. The other end pugs into the flash. Now you can place your 283 wherever you want, but the A control is still fixed to the camera. That way it still works nicely. Very useful for close-up shots.

Another unique feature for such a cheap flash is the high voltage input, which allows you to either connect the dedicated Vivitar battery or a Quantum Turbo for faster recycling. I never used that, as I don't have the matching cord, but even with a simple Quantum 1 6V battery pack it is fast enough for my needs and has power without end.

I mainly use the 283 with my old Mamiya 645, where it always gave reliable service and I can really highly recommend it.

Ben

[SOldBear]

Additional data:

- The power outputs of 283 and 285 are the same. The 285 has a 3-position zoom head, which helps in many occasions.

- In addition to 4 "auto" settings, the 285 has variable output settings (1/2, 1/4, and 1/16 I think). With the 283, the "default" has 4 "auto" settings, and full output. You can buy an accessory to have variable output settings but then you'll lose the auto settings (I haven't seen this accessory for a while, not sure if it's still available).

- My 283 has 9.4V trigger voltage. I've been using it with a K10D without any problem. I've heard that the "made in Japan" 283 had very high trigger voltage.

- The 285HV has low trigger voltage (6V I think) and is still in production. The 285 and 283 are no longer in production.

[geauxpez]

Good advice from the previous posters. I will add that the manual adapter (VP-1 shot for varipower 1) for the 283 is now discontinued. I bought one last year when they were still available. Don't fret, however, because there are instructions on the web for making a homemade one with parts available from Radio Shack that have better ergonomics than the VP-1. The dial is nearly a 2-handed operation instead of thumb & forefinger.

I will also issue the voltage caution. I play it safe and never use my 283 on-camera -- I use it remotely triggered instead. On-camera, until recently I used a Nikon SB-24 (safe voltage), but now I have a Metz 48AF-1 (highly recommended).

[Steinback]

Both are good, powerful manual flashes. As mentioned above checking the flash trigger voltage with a digital multimeter is important before using one on your camera as the older models had very high sync voltages.

I like the manual zoom head on my 285 and the more comprehensive manual power control out of the box compared to the 283 (though if you are buying used who knows, the 283 may already have an accessory varipower module on it). The 285 has a filter holder built into the head which can be handy but makes the flash head somewhat bulkier.

I haven't had a chance to use an AF360 but with the manual flashes one of the major trade offs is that you don't have P-TTL. Depending on your shooting style that may not be a problem; as long as you keep your aperture constant and select the correct distance range the auto settings on the 285 are quite good even if you are using bounce flash.

[axl]

thanks guys...

BR

[Ratmagiclady]

For clarity, btw, the 283 and 285 used to be pretty interchangeable, but 283's are known to carry a high trigger voltage indeed. than the '285HV' (If I say '285' that's what I mean.) These can vary and need to be tested to be safe.

The difference is that the 'hv' model, of which far more were made than the plain old 285, has isolated the circuit from any gel or Quantum pack you might plug it into, thus protecting photographers. That it happens to usually be safe for cameras is actually a bit incidental. So test.

Wonderful things, though, ...back in the day many working photogs would buy those. They passed the 'drop test.' (If you drop it on the floor, are you losing money on the gig?') This was especially because some department stores would advertise them in newspapers at cut-rate prices, based on their power, and then they would try and sell fancier units to the hobbyists. Kind of a benign bait and switch, cause they'd sell out quickly and cheerfully raincheck you.

I've still got one, a last survivor of c 1987. Think I paid thirty bucks. Retail. (Need to check the trigger voltage, still, though, for digital use)

The detached sensor cords rock. And are hard to find for the 285, since they didn't re-issue them when they started producing 285's again. Somewhat more are available for the 283, (actually have one, myself) since more were made. As I recall, the general attitude toward 285s was 'Nice, but bulkier and has features you don't really need.' (Zoom heads hadn't really caught on, for one, and they're also more of a pain to stick a bounce-card on. )

Now I feel old.


I could be like a 'Photoethnographer,' as someone terms it.

285's can do darn near anything, you can do studio, you can do events, with a little figuring, you can do macro... you can blow the retinas out of over-aggressive locals... A photo-gal's best friend, really.

The detached sensor cord is something they really should re-issue though. Hard to find, but insanely useful.

[axl]

the 285 I saw came with the cord sensor too. I'm really tempted by this one but damn I don't have voltmeter and I know if I'll buy one I will never use it again after testing this flash...
so I don't know... is there any serial numbers or years of manufacture database that would be able to determin whis ones are safe which aren't

BR

[axl]

PS: what is safe trigger voltage for Kxx/xxxD bodies? I read in another thread 12V. But I have read that *istD series were safe up to 30V. Do ve actually really know?

[SOldBear]

what is safe trigger voltage for Kxx/xxxD bodies? I read in another thread 12V. But I have read that *istD series were safe up to 30V. Do ve actually really know?

About 2 years ago, I read a thread (not on this forum). The poster in Europe asked Pentax and actually received an email back from a Pentax technician stating 25V was OK.

I don't think Pentax, or any other camera manufacturer, publishes the "safe" trigger voltage limit.

I've been using two Vivitar 283s and a Vivitar 3500 with my K10D. Their trigger voltages measure 9.4V.

A usable digital multimeter can be bought for a few bucks. I have a "good" used in the lab but this is what I use in my garage and carry around: 7 Function Digital Multimeter - $4.99

[Jodokast96]

They're pricey when compared to the cost of the flash, but if the trigger voltage is too high, there is always the Wein SafeSync. It will make flashes with up to 240v a nice safe 6v. What I really like about the off camera cord is that it also lets you chain a second flash from it using a seperate sync cord for a total of two off camera flashes.

[khardur]

I've got a 285 and 2x 283's.

One + for the 283: you can get the VP-1 Vari-Power adapter.
This allows you to change the power output settings from 1/64 all the way up to full power, with all stops in between. It's like a dimmer switch for your flash.

This allows me to use my 285HV for the main light (and generally on a more powerful setting) and the 283's as slaves on lower variable settings.

I made some custom beauty dishes and ended up using a dremel tool to saw off the connecting sliders on the zoom head of the 285HV. It still can be reattached and used as intended, but the wider zoom head on the 285HV didn't fit into the slots I made for the beauty dishes, so it had to go.