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12-17-2010, 02:41 AM   #151
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QuoteQuote:
I'd be really interested in the details
It's not trivial to design a receiver which detects a very wide range of signal levels, and does so while rejecting interference on adjacent channels whose frequency is going to be only very slightly different.

Of course it's doable. It's just not the kind of thing you can knock up on the bench in 5 minutes.

Anyway I suspect that all these products use off the shelf chips, from the same company somewhere in China

BTW the RF602 build quality is superb. It's just a pity that it doesn't quite work at 1/180, when the much cheaper Ebay RD616 thing does.

12-17-2010, 11:43 AM   #152
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Hi Peter, the half button press trick also did not work with a K5?
12-17-2010, 11:57 AM   #153
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For those interested, I've posted my MK-RC7 impressions, which are very similar to the RF-602, except the half-button shutter press works on Pentax's bodies and it uses AAA batteries in the Tx unit.

https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/pentax-camera-field-accessories/115887-rf...ml#post1260589
12-18-2010, 10:03 PM   #154
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QuoteOriginally posted by D4rknezz Quote
Hi Peter, the half button press trick also did not work with a K5?
Looks like the half-press trick does work for him: https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/pentax-k-5-forum/125338-k5-metz-45-flash.html#post1305527


I finally found a small enough switch today that I could mount in the RF-602 TX and set about making an on-off switch for the half-press.
Disclaimer: anyone who tries this mod (or similar) does so at their own risk. No responsibility taken for anything that goes wrong, or right.


SPDT switch, from a AA battery holder that I took apart


I cut open a slot in the top of the TX casing for the switch to fit into


Test fitting the switch


The contacts of the pressure switch that I soldered to


The wires soldered to the pressure switch; the other ends of the wires go towards the SPDT switch


The switch hot-glued to the top of the casing and in the off position


Switch pushed to on, the half-press is active.

After this mod, I get full sync at 1/180th in X mode

01-06-2011, 05:07 AM   #155
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I understand one advantage of the RF-602 over the Cactus V4 was the range. The Cactus V5 will have a ~100m range as well and many cool features.

No mods required to make them sync at 1/180.

Last edited by Class A; 01-11-2011 at 07:08 PM.
01-06-2011, 06:15 AM   #156
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QuoteOriginally posted by Class A Quote
I understand one advantage of the RF-602 over the Cactus V4 was the range. The Cactus V5 will have a ~100m range as well and many cool features.

No mods required to make them sync at 1/180.
Considering I've got 3x RF-602 transmitters and 9x RF-602 receivers, I don't think I'll personally be making a jump to other triggers soon.

But yes, the upcoming Cactus V5 transceivers look interesting, as does the newly announced Yongnuo RF-603 transceivers.
01-06-2011, 06:18 PM   #157
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Hi all,

This thread is 11 pages long by now and has many detailed answers about range sync speed etc., but I couldn't find a simple description of how this system works.

I've found an item on Ebay (RF602 Flash Trigger Pentax K10D K200D with 2 Receivers on eBay.ca (item 230476852951 end time 14-Jan-11 03:43:59 EST))
that has two receivers and TWO CABLES.

I have two flashes 540FGZ and 400FTZ (and one K20D). Do I need a cable for each flash? - The 540 doesn't have a connection!

Could you describe in a few short sentences (or perhaps post a link to) how do I connect everything, do I need cables (to trigger remote flashes) and in what modes those flashes have to (or can) be?

Thanks!
01-07-2011, 06:02 AM   #158
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QuoteOriginally posted by slawek Quote
Hi all,

This thread is 11 pages long by now and has many detailed answers about range sync speed etc., but I couldn't find a simple description of how this system works.

I've found an item on Ebay (RF602 Flash Trigger Pentax K10D K200D with 2 Receivers on eBay.ca (item 230476852951 end time 14-Jan-11 03:43:59 EST))
that has two receivers and TWO CABLES.

I have two flashes 540FGZ and 400FTZ (and one K20D). Do I need a cable for each flash? - The 540 doesn't have a connection!

Could you describe in a few short sentences (or perhaps post a link to) how do I connect everything, do I need cables (to trigger remote flashes) and in what modes those flashes have to (or can) be?

Thanks!
There are two different types of cables that come with the RF-602 units.

The first type is the remote shutter cable. On one end is the proprietary jack that you fit into the back of the RX (receiver) unit (in your link it is the end with the red collar). The other end goes into the remote shutter socket of your camera. This end comes in many different varieties, with different ones for different cameras since different cameras have different types of remote shutter sockets. E.g. if someone had a Canon EOS 1Ds, or 5D, 5D2, 40D, 50D, etc, they they'd have to get the cable with the appropriate jack that fits into their remote shutter socket. Shooting Pentax, the remote shutter jack that fits our cameras is a 2.5mm stereo jack. This 2.5mm stereo jack is used by the K10D, K20D, K-5, K7, etc, and also Canon 350D, 400D, 450D, 500D, so the auction that you linked to will work with your camera. You use this cable when you want to use the RF-602 units as a remote shutter release. You plug the proprietary jack end of the cable into the RF-602 RX, and the other end into the remote shutter socket of your camera. You half press the RF-602 TX (transmitter) unit, and this should act in a similar manner as if you half-press the shutter button on the camera; full press, and this should act in a similar manner as if you fully press the shutter button on the camera, i.e. you take a photo.

The second type of cable is the flash sync cable. One end is the proprietary jack that you fit into the back of the RX unit. The other end terminates in a 3.5mm mono jack, and in the auction that you linked to, there is a supplied 3.5mm->6.5mm mono adapter. This cable is used if your flash unit has a 3.5mm or 6.5mm sync socket (such as in some studio strobes), and is used when you use the RF-602s as a wireless flash trigger. You plug the proprietary jack end of the cable into the RF-602 RX and the other end into your flash/strobe. You put the TX onto your camera, and when you take a photo, the TX should send a signal to the RX which then makes the flash/strobe fire.

Now, you want to use the RF-602s with your 540FGZ and 400FTZ. The good news is, you don't need to worry about the cables at all, because you can just slide your flash units into the hotshoes of the RX! Put the 540FGZ in the hotshoe of one RX, and put the 400FTZ into the hotshoe of the other RX. Put the TX into the camera hotshoe, make sure all units are on and using the same channel, and that's all you really need. The flashes can be in almost any mode, as long as the mode does not turn off the flashes' hotshoe connection.

I know you asked for a few short sentences, but I gave you a wall of text. Sorry


Last edited by pop4; 01-07-2011 at 06:09 AM.
01-07-2011, 05:37 PM   #159
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Great answer pop4. Straight and simple (and not too long )! I was hoping it worked that way . Thanks

I still have some doubts about the modes: As we know 400FTZ does not support P-TTL and K20D does not TTL. So I don't think using that mode would be wise.

Would you share some tips/ideas on shooting K20D/540FGZ/400FTZ setup indoors (during the dancing party).

The manual mode comes to mind, however during those social events I tend to shoot from different directions and angles so the amount of light varies both in the background and on the subjects. I would like to leave those remote flashes unattended (so I can have some fun too ).

Could you recommend some settings (on K20D and flashes) worth the try?
01-07-2011, 07:02 PM   #160
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QuoteOriginally posted by slawek Quote
Would you share some tips/ideas on shooting K20D/540FGZ/400FTZ setup indoors (during the dancing party).

Could you recommend some settings (on K20D and flashes) worth the try?
Can't help you there I'm afraid; when I shoot off-camera flash, my flashes are in manual mode; in fact, I tend to not even use my Pentax flashes off-camera, I use the Yongnuo YN560 flashes, which are manual only flashes anyway. On camera, they're on rear-curtain pTTL with the camera in M mode.
01-07-2011, 10:06 PM   #161
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Those flashes ARE affordable. I might trade the 400FTZ (which for me is a manual-only as well) for one of those.
Is there a way to keep them from turning themselves off after 30min?(or am I reading their description wrongly).
01-08-2011, 04:32 AM   #162
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QuoteOriginally posted by slawek Quote
Those flashes ARE affordable. I might trade the 400FTZ (which for me is a manual-only as well) for one of those.
Is there a way to keep them from turning themselves off after 30min?(or am I reading their description wrongly).
The Yongnuo YN560s? I don't think so.

According to the manual, if you have the power-saving mode on, the flash will go to sleep after 3 minutes of inactivity (you can wake it back up by taking a shot, or with a half-press of the RF-602, I think, not 100% sure) and it'll turn itself off after 15 minutes of inactivity. If you turn off the power-saving mode off (which is what I do), then the flash will turn off after 30 minutes of inactivity.

I've currently got 5 of the YN560 flashes and they've been great. I've had only one problem, which is that one of them has died after about 4 months of usage, but I've sent it back to the seller I got it from, and when they receive that, they'll be sending me a brand new replacement. Other than that, it's been a good experience with the YN560s.
01-11-2011, 07:11 PM   #163
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QuoteOriginally posted by pop4 Quote
Considering I've got 3x RF-602 transmitters and 9x RF-602 receivers, I don't think I'll personally be making a jump to other triggers soon.
Makes sense.
Unfortunately, the RF-603 are incompatible with the RF-602 as well.

QuoteOriginally posted by pop4 Quote
But yes, the upcoming Cactus V5 transceivers look interesting, as does the newly announced Yongnuo RF-603 transceivers.
I just posted a Cactus V5 review. Hopefully you'll find it useful.
01-30-2011, 01:59 PM - 1 Like   #164
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Hey All. Just wanted to shared a slightly different way I used to 'fix' the 1/180 problem on the RF-602's.

Using the Nikon triggers, with a matching pinout, they freak out a little 'from the factory' and the green light flashes (however, when fitted to a Nikon, its on Solid). This is because the ready pin is just a High/Low signal on a Nikon. However Pentax's send a digital signal to this pin, which is what causes the erratic light pulsing when light metering is happening on the Body.

So if that signal is smoothed out, and kept constant above the threshold, then the green light will stay on solid and the flashes will work at 1/180.

I cracked open my one, and have attached a 16V 10uF Electrolytic Capacitor (had it literally at arms reach at the time) between the "Wake-up" Pin (pin at top on right all by itself on the row) and the Negative of the battery - You have a nice little filter that will smooth the 'rippled' TTL signal on the pentax to a nice flat (comparatively ) constant source.

No switches to forget to turn off (Did this to the Cannon variety of Transmitter due to pin incompatibilities - and promptly forgot to turn off the transmitter one time ) and it all works 'as it should' - a half press from the camera causes all remotes and transmitters to go "Green" for as long as the Light Meter is running and shots taken are good at 1/180.

I'll post up some pics of the inside shortly - But basically the Cap is on top of the board (held in place with some Kapton Tape) with some short wire leads to the PCB contacts for the Battery Negative Terminal and the Wake-Up Pin on the underside.
02-06-2011, 02:55 AM   #165
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Hi adr1an,

I'm happy you have found the fix for Pentax users
Can you post inside pics to understand what to do exactly?
Thanks a lot!
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