[BethC]

But I'm curious if I am heading in the right direction. I really want to be able to do some off camera flash with a shoot through umbrella. But would also like to be able to attach the flash to my camera to use as well. Right now I have a Promaster 7200 and it is all automatic. From what I've read on here before, I can only use that off camera with a sync chord...so, I think I would like either the Vivitar 285HV or the Lumopro LP 120. (I'm actually leaning more towards the Lumopro)

Anyone have an opinion on either one of these units?

Thanks!

[Peter Zack]

So from your post, I'm assuming you want to avoid radio triggers? The Vivitar would need a cord off camera, optical slave or radio trigger. The Lumopro LP 120 I have no experience with but it has an optical slave, so no wires.

I don't like optical slaves because sunlight can effect the reliablity. Indoors if there is anyone else with a camera flash, it will fire. Finally it will not always fire from the camera flash. You might be at an incorrect angle and the slave doesn't trigger.

IMO radio triggers are the only way to go and much more reliable with much greater range. Very little will effect the operation.

I also notice from the company web site, that they don't list the power for the Lumopro LP 120. So I have no idea if it even has enough power to use an umbrella effectively. Although the write up seems nice, I suspect it's a fairly basic flash. Plus it's not P-TTL for on camera work and it's going to be all manual shooting on camera. So will the Vivitar of course.

What I chose for my first basic setup was an AF540FGZ Pentax flash. Lots of power and very adjustable. I still use it for some wireless setups. It can be fired remotely from the camera but I use Flash Waves Radio Triggers as a radio remote. Very flexible and totally reliable. The 540 allows full auto control when on the camera as well. So a very versatile setup.

[lesmore49]

I don't have the answer to your question, but I am intrigued to see what others say. I have an old (bought new) Vivitar 285 HV that I bought years ago.

Very powerful flash...love it. I don't dare put it on my K10D or KM, because of fears of frying the circuitry of these cameras.

But I have thought about remote firing it...using my Pentax 360 flash and 285 HV opposing each other triggered by some system.

[Peter Zack]

There is no way to be completely sure with a 285HV as to trigger output voltage. Some are from China and some from Japan. The older 285's were also from Japan and had outputs as high as 350 volts. I've only read that some of the Japanese ones which were earlier models have higher outputs.

The only way to check is using a multimeter to check output trigger voltage and have less than 20 volts.

Radio Flash triggers are no different than cameras. They use electronic circuits and also could be damaged by a high voltage flash. .

[MrApollinax]

If you aren't intimidated with manual flash settings have you considered a Pentax 280T?

[Ash]

The way to go on a budget is to settle for a basic manual flash with multiple manual power settings (at least full, 1/2, 1/4 and 1/8) with a reliable triggering mechanism of sorts - radio, optical or hotshoe extension.

The Vivitar has had so much positive reviews because it's such a workhorse and is so reliable. But you really couldn't go too wrong with any flash that has versatile manual settings.

Like Peter I prefer radio trigger to optical. I started doing off camera wikt some inexpensive radio triggers from Adorama. Bought one transmitter 2 receivers. I use my 285 for the shoot thru and my af400t as a bounce. But again I shoot flash entirely manual.

I will more than likely buy 2 more receivers to fire 2 background flashes.

[noahpurdy]

You can't go wrong with either of your choices, the Vivitar 285 HV and Lumopro LP120 are both fantastic flashes that you can use on your cameras hotshoes as well.

[omega leader]

The 285 and the 283 have a wide range of voltages. I have 3, two are unsafe (voltage about 106 volts on one about 312 on the other). But the third is completely safe at about 7.5 volts.

My safe one says made in Korea. The only way to be sure is a digital multimetre and test.

I've used the eBay radio triggers multiple times on all of these and the high voltage doesn't seem to have any negative effect on the triggers.

[BethC]

okay, I'm confused now. I thought I was sold on the Lumopro, but not sure now.

So from your post, I'm assuming you want to avoid radio triggers? The Vivitar would need a cord off camera, optical slave or radio trigger. The Lumopro LP 120 I have no experience with but it has an optical slave, so no wires.

So how would I trigger the flash off camera if I went with the Lumopro?

I can get a Metz 48 off Amazon for around $230 so maybe I should jsut go that way??

[lavascript]

You could trigger the LumoPro with a PC sync cord, or use the optical trigger, or a radio trigger.

By the way, I would go with the LumoPro all the way. You get swivel, built-in optical slave, and a 1/8 power setting. The Vivitar lacks all these.

As far as triggers go, I get the impression you're not sure of what we're talking about.

An optical slave, which the LumoPro has built-in, will fire the flash as soon as it sees another flash fire. This is by far the cheapest and easiest method of firing a flash without wires. But its range is limited, it doesn't work in strong sunlight, and if anyone else around you fires a flash, it will trigger your slave as well.

I HIGHLY recommend the Cactus V4 radio triggers. They are light years ahead of the V2s. With these, there is a transmitter mounted on your camera, and each flash gets a receiver. The standard TX/RX combo is $40. I spent $100 to get 1xTX/3xRX from www.gadgetinfinity.com. But that may be out of your budget, in which case optical is the way to go.

EDIT:

Actually, after re-reading your original post more carefully, I see that you already have a Promaster flash. You can indeed use that off-camera with a set of the Cactus radio triggers.

[BethC]

I get the impression you're not sure of what we're talking about.

HAHA It's that obvious!? Honestly, I had no clue, but I appreciate your explenation.

I was told on another thread a while back that to use my promaster I would have to use a sync chord and that anything wireless would not work. I wonder if I should get the standard TX/RX combo you posted about and give that a try before I Do anythign else. I eventually want to get a flash that has some manual controls on it, since the one I have is totally automatic (Is that called PTTL? ) But i'd love to try it with my Promaster first if you think that may work.

Thanks so much for the advice!

[Groundloop]

...I eventually want to get a flash that has some manual controls on it, since the one I have is totally automatic (Is that called PTTL? ) But i'd love to try it with my Promaster first if you think that may work.

Thanks so much for the advice!

More like super automatic. Here's a brief run down.

"Automatic" - You set the flash to the aperture and ISO you're using, and the flash tells you what your usable flash range is. Then, when you take a picture, a sensor on the front of the flash detects how much light is bouncing back from your subject, and adjusts it's output based on that measurement.

"TTL" - Literally, Through The Lens. You set your aperture and ISO on the camera, and the flash adjusts itself accordingly. You take a shot, *the flash does a pre-flash*, and the exposure meter inside your camera detects how much light is bouncing back from your subject, and sends a signal to the flash to adjust it's output based on that measurement.

"Manual" - By far the preferred method (by me anyway), to do off camera flash. Especially using multiple flashes. You set the output of the flash independent of any camera/lens settings. Adjust the flash output until you get the desired result.

Hope that helps.