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Picture of the Week (POTW) # 468 - Period covering 14 August 2017 - 28 Aug 2017
Posted By: rjbrett, 08-20-2017, 07:26 PM

Welcome to Picture of the Week (POTW) for the week ending 28 August 2017. [Thank you for asking Aslyfox – I’d be honoured to host this round]

POTW is a great spot to show off six or fewer shots you take or are editing within the thread's date range. In other words, you can post your shots from this week AND last week, that is from 14 - 28 August 2017.

To post your great photos, just hit reply and attach away

Please:

• consider including in your post any special circumstances or tips on technique or equipment which might be interesting to others.

• identify your camera and lens if that information is easily available to you.

And please invite other Pentaxians to join us.

Some rules:
1) No theme, just post your favorite pix
2) Six or fewer images per person per thread to prevent thread bloat
3) Any Pentax, Ricoh or Samsung camera, film or digital

The current host will invite a new host via Private Message (PM). If possible, the new thread will be linked to the previous one. If the thread doesn't start, please contact the host, via PM.
Here are the records of recent POTW thread hosts: 390 smf, 391 smf, 392 smf, 393 smf, 394 smf, 395 smf, 396 smf, 397 smf, 398 smf, 399 smf, 400 smf, 401 smf, 402 smf, 403 smf, 404 smf, 405 smf, 406 smf,407 ramseybuckeye, 408 ramseybuckeye, 409 stubyles, 410 stubyles, 411 stubyles, 412-423 SD_Bob, 424-427 dave kitson 428-451 smf 452, 453, 454 StephenHampshire 455 Aslyfox, 456 StepehenHampshire, 457 noelcmn, 458 noelcmn, 459 noelcmn, 460 noelcmn, 461 noelcmn, 462 noelcmn, 463 noelcmn, 464 noelcmn, 465 noelcmn, 466 noelcmn, 467 Aslyfox

Read more at: Picture of the Week (POTW) # 467 - Period covering 7 August 2017 - 20 Aug 2017

Picture of the Week (POTW) # 467 - Period covering 7 August 2017 - 20 Aug 2017 - PentaxForums.com

It’s winter here in Australia, and for much of the continent the weather has been dominated by clear, crisp, blue skies characteristic of the large high pressures systems that move in slow progression from west to east at this time of year. My humble starter offerings came from a drive to visit someone in hospital – I was testing some manual lenses I have been collecting on my K5, and was quite pleased with the results. The rooftop view with the palm shoot was taken with an Asanuma 135mm f2.8, the rest with a Koboron 28mm f2.8, both K mount. I like the detail and color of both lenses, the horizontal and vertical lines of the palm shot, and the leafy green appearance and contrasting straight edged architectural elements of the hospital and street shots.

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Last edited by rjbrett; 08-20-2017 at 07:56 PM.
Views: 1,398
08-21-2017, 12:17 AM - 2 Likes   #2
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These are all cross posted (I put them in their own thread already) but I figured it's still worth a share.

Camera was a K-1 with a 24-70 zoom. Location is Shanghai China. All shots are 100% hand held. No cropping or straightening has been applied at all. Very minimal post processing. All 100% natural light...well sort of None applied by me that is...

First shot at f2.8, ISO 1600, 1/40s, 24mm



Second shot f4, ISO 1600, 1/40s, 48mm



Third shot f4, ISO1600, 1/40s, 24mm

08-21-2017, 04:00 AM - 1 Like   #3
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Thanks very much to rjbrett for hosting and to alamo5000 for posting and including details about the images.

The basketball images below were captured in my role as a volunteer photographer at the annual three-on-three basketball tournament which raises money for the Arc of Midland and the Northwood University men’s basketball program. I used a Takumar-F 1:3.5-4.5 28-80 on my handheld K-S2.

I used the same lens and camera for the car show photo.

The county fair images were captured with my smc Pentax-F 1:4.5-5.6 100-300 on my handheld Pentax K-S2.
Attached Images
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Last edited by smf; 08-29-2017 at 03:22 AM. Reason: Fix typo
08-21-2017, 09:54 AM - 5 Likes   #4
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Celestial playground

Taken last Tuesday at 12.30am on Anglesey

South Stack lighthouse under a starlit sky.

Sitting here in the shadow of the headland you will see a hundred satellites, shooting stars, meteors and planes passing by, as the lighthouse and the distant lights of Dublin keep you company in the darkness.

I was using a Pentax K-1 with 15-30DFA lens

Post production:

The image is essentially 1 shot but taken multiple times at varying ISO's and shutter speeds, most of them were only used to control the noise as the ISO went as high as 12,800

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08-21-2017, 04:14 PM - 2 Likes   #5
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08-21-2017, 04:20 PM - 3 Likes   #6
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K 3 + HD Pentax-D FA 150-450mm F4.5-5.6 ED DC AW
hand held, natural lighting, through the glass window of the enclosure

August 19, 2017

______________________________________________

the newly arrived male Sumatran Tiger at the Topeka Zoo and Conservation Center - Saving Animals From Extinction

what is he thinking about

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food

1/1000 sec. f/8 450mm

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us

1/1000 sec. f/8 450mm

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his enclosure

1/1000 sec. f/8 450mm

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the mature female in the next enclosure

1/1000 sec. f/8 290mm

or all of the above??

Last edited by Aslyfox; 08-21-2017 at 06:05 PM.
08-22-2017, 01:13 PM - 2 Likes   #7
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Thanks for hosting rjbret. WOW we have some cracking images this week, especially robalabob, that is an exquisite image.
A beautiful sunset at Zoo Lake today, a very windy day.


And you know spring has arrived when the Crab Apple tree starts blooming


Mating Robber flies






08-22-2017, 03:47 PM   #8
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What wonderful photos you’ve all posted! That wide end of that zoom, Alamo500, and the colour it brings out in the lights really picks and fills the modernist lines of the cityscape, and your framing and exposure with it seem near perfect for these pictures. I’ve been preoccupied with older, more obscure lenses but this is making me rethink recent multicoated optics. I loved the framing of the skyscrapers in the curve of the overpass, and handheld… I’d never have guessed.

And I can’t even begin to follow what you’ve done for that piece of magic you’ve posted robalabob, even though you’ve described it. It’s not for beginners is it? – all I can do is marvel.

The edges and detail you’ve got with that takumar zoom, smf, look incredibly sharp on the car dashboard and bonnet! – and that one’s probably closer my budget too…

It really is my pleasure hosting this round, I enjoy admiring everyone’s shared success stories, and am learning so much…


Last edited by rjbrett; 08-22-2017 at 08:14 PM.
08-23-2017, 10:28 PM - 2 Likes   #9
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QuoteOriginally posted by rjbrett Quote
What wonderful photos you’ve all posted! That wide end of that zoom, Alamo500, and the colour it brings out in the lights really picks and fills the modernist lines of the cityscape, and your framing and exposure with it seem near perfect for these pictures. I’ve been preoccupied with older, more obscure lenses but this is making me rethink recent multicoated optics. I loved the framing of the skyscrapers in the curve of the overpass, and handheld… I’d never have guessed.
Thank you for your comments!

It's kind of weird but when I first started taking photos I was so into the biggest, longest lenses I could find. Now though I am just the opposite for the most part. I am more like a 'shoot with what you have' guy but I am always favoring the wide in a lot of cases. I have gone back and forth. Started with zooms, then 100% primes, then I bought a zoom again so now I am all mixed up. I have been on two around the world trips using only a single zoom lens.

Yes, all my pictures are hand held and all natural light. I have made a long term effort to get a shot right the first time. Even though I have free snaps which I often take advantage of I try to focus on quality instead of spray and pray. I have made quite a long term effort to hold my camera right so there are no crops for the most part. My next thing is to get the angle of the lens right. I need to put more effort into that. The up and down cant matters.

Also as for the exposure that is almost what the JPEGs looked like out of the camera. I only did minor 'fixing'. I should also mention that I am obsessed with light now. Big time. When I look at a scene now I go through 10 different visions of light (or shadow) and where everything is at. You can't control it, but you can control what you aim your camera at and what is in the frame.
08-24-2017, 02:58 PM   #10
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Thanks for the tips! - pay attention to grip on camera and handling while shooting (this rings a bell on something I heard a long time ago), and think through different lighting possibilities. I'm already checking my assumptions on a shot I'm trying in the back yard here...
08-25-2017, 02:14 AM   #11
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QuoteOriginally posted by rjbrett Quote
What wonderful photos you’ve all posted! That wide end of that zoom, Alamo500, and the colour it brings out in the lights really picks and fills the modernist lines of the cityscape, and your framing and exposure with it seem near perfect for these pictures. I’ve been preoccupied with older, more obscure lenses but this is making me rethink recent multicoated optics. I loved the framing of the skyscrapers in the curve of the overpass, and handheld… I’d never have guessed.

And I can’t even begin to follow what you’ve done for that piece of magic you’ve posted robalabob, even though you’ve described it. It’s not for beginners is it? – all I can do is marvel.

The edges and detail you’ve got with that takumar zoom, smf, look incredibly sharp on the car dashboard and bonnet! – and that one’s probably closer my budget too…

It really is my pleasure hosting this round, I enjoy admiring everyone’s shared success stories, and am learning so much…
Thank you for your comments. I'd say a beginner can absolutely do the processes I have here, this is only my second astrophotography attempt, (the first attempt the less said the better lol), I taught myself through watching plenty of youtube videos.

So when I'm talking about the same shot taken over and over at different ISO's I'm talking mostly about manual median stacking. Ill take an image like the one below - this is the base image for the picture I posted above - I think the setting were 25sec - ISO3200 - f2.8, and I'll retake exactly the same shot 5+ times. Having a steady tripod is very important here so that you don't have to reposition the photos in post processing.

You convert the layers into a smart object and then set the stack to Median. This makes each picture equally visible (say there is 5 shots, then each picture will be visible 20%) this massively decreases the noise. It can be very time consuming but I just love post processing. If I can spend 5 hours making one image look exactly how I want it to look, I'm a happy bunny :-)

- Here's a link to a tutorial
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PENTAX K-1  Photo 
08-26-2017, 12:55 AM   #12
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Thanks for the extended explanation and link Robalabob - I had a look. So when you talk about manually stacking the photos you are inserting them as successive layers in the same file, and then more or less following the processing sequence shown in the video?
08-26-2017, 07:20 AM   #13
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QuoteOriginally posted by rjbrett Quote
Thanks for the extended explanation and link Robalabob - I had a look. So when you talk about manually stacking the photos you are inserting them as successive layers in the same file, and then more or less following the processing sequence shown in the video?
I dont follow the video after the shots are aligned but it is where I started off and it is a good way of doing it but it is an automated process that leaves you with little control

the problem with this automated way is that if you have an ugly cloud or something that you don't want to show in one of the pictures, you will be able to see it in the final version. I do it a bit differently, I align the photos so I have, say 5 of the same type of shots on a layer each and change the opacity of each layer in a specific way so that each file shows through.

The way to do this is giving each successive layer a decreasing opacity. So the bottom layer will be 100% opacity the next will have 50%, the next 33%, then 25%, 20% and so on. this shows all layers equally and has the same affect as median stacking, the difference is, I can pu a mask on each layer and balck out the parts I don't want from each picture, If there is an ugly cloud on one of them, mask the cloud in black and it's gone.

Sorryu if my explanation is poor
08-27-2017, 12:38 AM   #14
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QuoteOriginally posted by robalabob Quote
I dont follow the video after the shots are aligned but it is where I started off and it is a good way of doing it but it is an automated process that leaves you with little control

the problem with this automated way is that if you have an ugly cloud or something that you don't want to show in one of the pictures, you will be able to see it in the final version. I do it a bit differently, I align the photos so I have, say 5 of the same type of shots on a layer each and change the opacity of each layer in a specific way so that each file shows through.

The way to do this is giving each successive layer a decreasing opacity. So the bottom layer will be 100% opacity the next will have 50%, the next 33%, then 25%, 20% and so on. this shows all layers equally and has the same affect as median stacking, the difference is, I can pu a mask on each layer and balck out the parts I don't want from each picture, If there is an ugly cloud on one of them, mask the cloud in black and it's gone.

Sorryu if my explanation is poor
Makes perfect sense to me - thank you!
08-28-2017, 05:16 PM - 1 Like   #15
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here is the link to the next POTW thread

Picture of the Week (POTW) # 469 - Period covering 21 August 2017 - 4 Sep 2017 - PentaxForums.com
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