SMC/S-M-C/Super-/Auto-/Takumar 55mm F1.8 samples

yeatzee · 07-25-2011, 12:39 PM - **1 Like**

Mines the Auto variation

**Pepe Guitarra** · 08-04-2011, 02:44 PM

great lens

KarenH · 10-26-2011, 03:39 AM - **2 Likes**

I've got the Super version.
Just got it 1 week ago, didn't take much pictures with it yet, but I already know I'm going to love it.
It's a little bit soft wide open, but sometimes that's just what you want.

Nesster · 10-26-2011, 10:12 AM

The 55 is a really good lens, and not just for the money.

Here's an illustration of what SMC coating can do:

two from the Auto

some from the SMC with film:

...and the SMC on a K100D

Last edited by Nesster; 10-26-2011 at 10:17 AM.

Bramela · 04-17-2012, 07:23 PM

A few samples from this lens ;

More to be seen here :

Insert Photos and Images

purwoadi · 07-26-2012, 11:17 AM

Difficult to focus, may be katzeye screen, but the color rendering and OOF transition is incredible. I'm lucky to have one of this lens.
Mine is SMC Pentax version, the photo was made with +0.7EV, 1/80th second and F1.8 aperture.

zantaphia · 10-15-2012, 06:34 AM - **1 Like**

SP 2 and 55/1.8

durell · 11-23-2012, 06:55 AM - **3 Likes**

BKSPicture · 02-06-2013, 05:01 AM

Technical info
Camera: Pentax Spotmatic SP II
Lens: S-M-C Takumar 55mm f/1.8 + macro tubes
Film: Rollei RPX 100
Scanner: Plustek OpticFilm 7600i
Place: Uddevalla / Sweden

HiRes ver of this picture can be found on my homepage: Picture: Macro & Flowers

george2013 · 02-08-2013, 12:13 PM

How are those Takumars coping with high contrast fully open? I had bad experience with some old lenses showing noticeable hallos and glow.

**Pepe Guitarra** · 02-08-2013, 02:17 PM

durell: Lovely bokeh and everything else!!

tim60 · 02-08-2013, 09:04 PM

Originally posted by zantaphia

SP 2 and 55/1.8

Nice image. But I am interested in the subject.

It looks very much like one of a class of 4-8-0 locomotive being manufactured in Australia for the Chinese railways at the end of the civil war. The remaining ones were converted for use on 5'3" and with local fuels - by then usually Leigh Creek coal with oil supplement to make it burn.

Do you know the original of the locomotive?

zantaphia · 02-08-2013, 09:48 PM

Originally posted by tim60

Nice image. But I am interested in the subject.

It looks very much like one of a class of 4-8-0 locomotive being manufactured in Australia for the Chinese railways at the end of the civil war. The remaining ones were converted for use on 5'3" and with local fuels - by then usually Leigh Creek coal with oil supplement to make it burn.

Do you know the original of the locomotive?

Hi!

I think it's built in Sweden? I'll check my other photos of if to see if I can find the manufacturing plate. However it can still be made from drawings coming from outside Sweden. I can't go there to check, because i'm living in China now.

BR Pär

tim60 · 02-09-2013, 02:08 PM

Originally posted by zantaphia

Hi!

I think it's built in Sweden? I'll check my other photos of if to see if I can find the manufacturing plate. However it can still be made from drawings coming from outside Sweden. I can't go there to check, because i'm living in China now.

BR Pär

Sorry, I was tricked by your location,a nd thought it might be in China. I did think the backgorund unusual for China, but they do have 'theme' developments. I do know the ones not delivered on the aid contract were converted for use on South Australian Railways.

tim60 · 02-09-2013, 02:27 PM - **1 Like**

Originally posted by george2013

How are those Takumars coping with high contrast fully open? I had bad experience with some old lenses showing noticeable hallos and glow.

The earlier series of Tak lenses, all before multi coated in the name, were single coated lenses. I have noticed that they do suffer challenges with high contrast edges where one side has a very bright light, such as light sources or sun. I live with it and usually enjoy it as part of the aesthetic of these lenses. I do not notice the challenge unless there is a very bright source on one side of the edge. A chessboard in normal light is high contrast but does not push the effect.

This was the effect which pushed th search for improved performance, which led to the multicoating treatment. I only have two multicoated ones (35/3.5 and 200) and have not usesd either much, so have not firm opinion.

Using a lens hood helps this effect.

There is another effect I noticed. The wide angle lenses all have small rear elements, which means there is a large rear surface. SuperTak and later lenses had this surface painted in the matte finsh for non-reflectiviyy. The only Auto Tak I have used (35/3.5) had a very smooth surface finished in a glossy finish (anodised?). This must have been acceptable in film, but in DSLR (K100DS at least) there can be reflection from the sensor (which is basically glass with reflective bits on it) rather than the less reflective emulsion of film. The frlection in the auto tak then reflects off the back of the lens and results in a generalised fogginess leading to poor contrast, not quite the effect you describe. The effect was less in dull light, but still noticable. I normally use these lenses with Av mode, and +1.3EV to get consistent good exposure. The AutoTak demanded to be set at +0.3 or ).6 to work reasonably, but that only disguised the effect, did not remove it.

I have the 55/1.8 and 55/2, both STak. The f1.8 is in better condition, and is nicer to use. The f2 was my first normal m42 lens, and got me hooked. I bought a cheap one just to find out how it would go, technically, could I get it to work OK. I had to open the f2 to remove some adhere muck on an inner surface. It is very easy to remove the glass for cleaning, and designed so it can only be assembled correctly.

07-25-2011, 12:39 PM - 1 Like	#1
yeatzee Veteran Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Temecula Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 3,675	SMC/S-M-C/Super-/Auto-/Takumar 55mm F1.8 samples Mines the Auto variation

04-17-2012, 07:23 PM	#5
Bramela Veteran Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Newcastle Australia Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 5,284	Super Takumar 55mm 1.8 A few samples from this lens ; More to be seen here : Insert Photos and Images

10-15-2012, 06:34 AM - 1 Like	#7
zantaphia Veteran Member Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Klippan, Scania Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 509	Too few photos here with this killer razor katana sharp lens! SP 2 and 55/1.8

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Pepe Guitarra Site Supporter Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: California Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 2,223	great lens

10-26-2011, 03:39 AM - 2 Likes	#3
KarenH Veteran Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Berkel en Rodenrijs Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 828	I've got the Super version. Just got it 1 week ago, didn't take much pictures with it yet, but I already know I'm going to love it. It's a little bit soft wide open, but sometimes that's just what you want.

10-26-2011, 10:12 AM	#4
Nesster Veteran Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: NJ USA Photos: Gallery Posts: 13,072	The 55 is a really good lens, and not just for the money. Here's an illustration of what SMC coating can do: two from the Auto some from the SMC with film: ...and the SMC on a K100D Last edited by Nesster; 10-26-2011 at 10:17 AM.

11-23-2012, 06:55 AM - 3 Likes	#8
durell New Member Join Date: Nov 2012 Posts: 4

02-06-2013, 05:01 AM	#9
BKSPicture Forum Member Join Date: Dec 2012 Posts: 94	Technical info Camera: Pentax Spotmatic SP II Lens: S-M-C Takumar 55mm f/1.8 + macro tubes Film: Rollei RPX 100 Scanner: Plustek OpticFilm 7600i Place: Uddevalla / Sweden HiRes ver of this picture can be found on my homepage: Picture: Macro & Flowers

02-08-2013, 12:13 PM	#10
george2013 Inactive Account Join Date: Feb 2013 Posts: 1	How are those Takumars coping with high contrast fully open? I had bad experience with some old lenses showing noticeable hallos and glow.

02-08-2013, 02:17 PM	#11
Pepe Guitarra Site Supporter Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: California Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 2,223	durell: Lovely bokeh and everything else!!

02-08-2013, 09:04 PM	#12
tim60 Pentaxian Join Date: Apr 2011 Photos: Albums Posts: 8,738	Originally posted by zantaphia SP 2 and 55/1.8 Nice image. But I am interested in the subject. It looks very much like one of a class of 4-8-0 locomotive being manufactured in Australia for the Chinese railways at the end of the civil war. The remaining ones were converted for use on 5'3" and with local fuels - by then usually Leigh Creek coal with oil supplement to make it burn. Do you know the original of the locomotive?

02-08-2013, 09:48 PM	#13
zantaphia Veteran Member Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Klippan, Scania Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 509	Originally posted by tim60 Nice image. But I am interested in the subject. It looks very much like one of a class of 4-8-0 locomotive being manufactured in Australia for the Chinese railways at the end of the civil war. The remaining ones were converted for use on 5'3" and with local fuels - by then usually Leigh Creek coal with oil supplement to make it burn. Do you know the original of the locomotive? Hi! I think it's built in Sweden? I'll check my other photos of if to see if I can find the manufacturing plate. However it can still be made from drawings coming from outside Sweden. I can't go there to check, because i'm living in China now. BR Pär

02-09-2013, 02:08 PM	#14
tim60 Pentaxian Join Date: Apr 2011 Photos: Albums Posts: 8,738	Originally posted by zantaphia Hi! I think it's built in Sweden? I'll check my other photos of if to see if I can find the manufacturing plate. However it can still be made from drawings coming from outside Sweden. I can't go there to check, because i'm living in China now. BR Pär Sorry, I was tricked by your location,a nd thought it might be in China. I did think the backgorund unusual for China, but they do have 'theme' developments. I do know the ones not delivered on the aid contract were converted for use on South Australian Railways.

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02-09-2013, 02:27 PM - 1 Like	#15
tim60 Pentaxian Join Date: Apr 2011 Photos: Albums Posts: 8,738	Originally posted by george2013 How are those Takumars coping with high contrast fully open? I had bad experience with some old lenses showing noticeable hallos and glow. The earlier series of Tak lenses, all before multi coated in the name, were single coated lenses. I have noticed that they do suffer challenges with high contrast edges where one side has a very bright light, such as light sources or sun. I live with it and usually enjoy it as part of the aesthetic of these lenses. I do not notice the challenge unless there is a very bright source on one side of the edge. A chessboard in normal light is high contrast but does not push the effect. This was the effect which pushed th search for improved performance, which led to the multicoating treatment. I only have two multicoated ones (35/3.5 and 200) and have not usesd either much, so have not firm opinion. Using a lens hood helps this effect. There is another effect I noticed. The wide angle lenses all have small rear elements, which means there is a large rear surface. SuperTak and later lenses had this surface painted in the matte finsh for non-reflectiviyy. The only Auto Tak I have used (35/3.5) had a very smooth surface finished in a glossy finish (anodised?). This must have been acceptable in film, but in DSLR (K100DS at least) there can be reflection from the sensor (which is basically glass with reflective bits on it) rather than the less reflective emulsion of film. The frlection in the auto tak then reflects off the back of the lens and results in a generalised fogginess leading to poor contrast, not quite the effect you describe. The effect was less in dull light, but still noticable. I normally use these lenses with Av mode, and +1.3EV to get consistent good exposure. The AutoTak demanded to be set at +0.3 or ).6 to work reasonably, but that only disguised the effect, did not remove it. I have the 55/1.8 and 55/2, both STak. The f1.8 is in better condition, and is nicer to use. The f2 was my first normal m42 lens, and got me hooked. I bought a cheap one just to find out how it would go, technically, could I get it to work OK. I had to open the f2 to remove some adhere muck on an inner surface. It is very easy to remove the glass for cleaning, and designed so it can only be assembled correctly.