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08-29-2012, 12:28 PM   #16
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darren

from the description it sounds right but you are a bit harsh, it is actually lighter than the DA300/4 by a few grams. your shots seem a little off, now sure why, but suffering from much more lateral CA than the lens should produce.

I assume this is a K mount lens you are using? It should say SMC PENTAX 1:4 300mm XXXXXXX ASAHI OPT. CO., JAPAN

08-29-2012, 01:16 PM   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by Lowell Goudge Quote
darren

from the description it sounds right but you are a bit harsh, it is actually lighter than the DA300/4 by a few grams.
Is that your tongue I see in your cheek?
(but if you mean my images are a bit harsh, you would be right...I didn't really make a good effort last night)
QuoteOriginally posted by Lowell Goudge Quote
your shots seem a little off, now sure why, but suffering from much more lateral CA than the lens should produce.
How can I produce a 'test image' to best see this CA you speak of? (and get on the road to correcting same)
QuoteOriginally posted by Lowell Goudge Quote

I assume this is a K mount lens you are using? It should say SMC PENTAX 1:4 300mm XXXXXXX ASAHI OPT. CO., JAPAN
Exactly correct.
08-29-2012, 02:06 PM   #18
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Darren lateral CA appears in two separate places, with any lens, one that is correctable the other only partially so.

If the lens is exhibiting lateral CA in the focus plane, then correction is possible in adobe or other programs which use rescaling of each color layer separately. The Pentax photo lab also uses this process as does PTlens, and adobe plug in that works with any program (like PSP X4 that accepts plug ins)

The second aspect of lateral CA is in out of focus detail, for nature usually in twigs, or for example in my heron shot in post #1 as the outline of the head falls out of focus (remember DOF on a long lens is not great) this can only be selectively removed using a fringe removal tool

To test for plane of focus lateral CA shoot anything with a high contrast grid pattern, and see if there is color separation as you move out from the center of the frame. Black and white meshes work best, but any subjects with hard lines at the edges will do

The best example might be a building with metal window frames and a different color glass
08-29-2012, 10:46 PM   #19
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(I will make time to photograph a grid soon)

12-04-2012, 08:29 PM   #20
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QuoteOriginally posted by Lowell Goudge Quote
Darren lateral CA appears in two separate places, with any lens, one that is correctable the other only partially so.

If the lens is exhibiting lateral CA in the focus plane, then correction is possible in adobe or other programs which use rescaling of each color layer separately. The Pentax photo lab also uses this process as does PTlens, and adobe plug in that works with any program (like PSP X4 that accepts plug ins)

The second aspect of lateral CA is in out of focus detail, for nature usually in twigs, or for example in my heron shot in post #1 as the outline of the head falls out of focus (remember DOF on a long lens is not great) this can only be selectively removed using a fringe removal tool

To test for plane of focus lateral CA shoot anything with a high contrast grid pattern, and see if there is color separation as you move out from the center of the frame. Black and white meshes work best, but any subjects with hard lines at the edges will do

The best example might be a building with metal window frames and a different color glass
...or a chain-link fence? I think I have this lens. I love it on many levels, but the CA on both edges of the fence, for example...I've got to dig up an example. I'm shooting on a K10D.
12-05-2012, 11:45 PM   #21
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QuoteOriginally posted by Darren8306 Quote
Is that your tongue I see in your cheek?
(but if you mean my images are a bit harsh, you would be right...I didn't really make a good effort last night)
How can I produce a 'test image' to best see this CA you speak of? (and get on the road to correcting same)

Exactly correct.
Missed your first comment abut the lens weight and tongue in cheek. It really is lighter than the DA300. I caught someone off gaurd with this when they were discussing that APS-C lenses were lighter because of the reduced image circle, and I pointed out that many Kand M lenses, made with thick glass elements and metal lens barrels etc were actually lighter than the newer "light weight" counterparts
04-30-2014, 03:17 PM - 1 Like   #22
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Funny Lowell, with all the samples you posted - none are film. So I wake up this old thread to add a few film photos to the samples.

ME Super and Fujifilm Pro 400 H




ME Super on Delta 3200



And one through my recently acquired K5 IIs



04-30-2014, 03:23 PM   #23
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I am looking forward to play with my copy which should arrive here next week ! As soon as I get it I will post some samples too !
--manntax

PS: !!!

QuoteOriginally posted by mattt Quote
ME Super on Delta 3200
Oh boy .. how I love film for that kind of results !!!
brilliant !
04-30-2014, 03:47 PM   #24
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QuoteOriginally posted by mattt Quote
Funny Lowell, with all the samples you posted - none are film. So I wake up this old thread to add a few film photos to the samples.
Never say I don't listen. 300/4 with 1.7x AF adaptor on PZ1
07-05-2014, 04:53 AM   #25
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Sharing this one because of the bokeh. I love Ektar 100 too. Shot through my K1000.

11-03-2014, 01:17 PM   #26
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Here are a few of the moon, and comparisons using the Rear Converter K T6-2x, as well as comparison with the SMCT 300_4.
JB Media | SMC Pentax 1:4 300mm
12-14-2014, 06:11 PM - 1 Like   #27
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I've been using my K300/4 for motorcycle racing shots on the ice for the past couple of years. Once the racers get going, a lot of snow and ice get thrown up into the air and I found that a MF lens did a much better job because my AF lenses would loose focus. That meant a lot of lost shots and usually only shots of the guy in the front of the pack. With the camera on a tripod, I generally set the focus to the same spot on turn 4 of the course and then leave it alone and fire away. With the aperture at f/11, there is enough DOF to overcome small focus errors. It worked well for me last season and as the lakes are freezing over again, I'm already getting ready for this season.







This shot probably won't happen with auto focus as the snow and ice just make the lens hunt.
12-14-2014, 06:44 PM   #28
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Since you woke this up, I'll post a fresh one. Native format on Fujifilm Pro 400H wide open @ 1/500
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12-14-2014, 07:13 PM   #29
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How much do the K-300's usually run for? I already have an old 300mm prime, but its a half a stop slower and I'm intrigued if it would be worth grabbing this one if I already have that FL covered in the 'grungy old prime lens' category.
12-14-2014, 07:20 PM   #30
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QuoteOriginally posted by Sagitta Quote
How much do the K-300's usually run for? I already have an old 300mm prime, but its a half a stop slower and I'm intrigued if it would be worth grabbing this one if I already have that FL covered in the 'grungy old prime lens' category.

I picked up this one for $225. I see them come up time and again between $200 and $250. Mine was in pretty good condition, came with the leather case, and had some great stories attached, as it was owned by an Ontario Provincial Police Ident officer who used it for under cover surveillance.
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