Win a Pentax Limited Lens: Raffle Now Live!

**67comet** · 10-14-2021, 10:28 AM

Took this with my new (to me) Coastar Lens. It's my second "bargain" 28mm that's absolute junk (not as bad as my last one, but still, there's no clear image to be had with these lenses on a DSLR - this lens is circa 1970's.

Anyone got advice on getting these lenses to take a decent image w/out all the haze, and afterglow (Tried several different f stops, speeds, lighting, etc.. ).

My other 28mm that sucks even worse is a GLC Series Automatic 28mm f/2.8 No. 8781659 (circa 1990's).

My search for a good 'enough' 28mm for my K10D continues.

Attached Images

View Picture EXIF

**ProfessorBuzz** · 10-14-2021, 10:46 AM - **1 Like**

Try a circular polarizer.

**pres589** · 10-14-2021, 10:50 AM - **1 Like**

Stop down the lens to f8 and see what things look like. Also make sure the lens is actually stopping down properly. Ensure you've got proper focus as well; you may be slightly front-focused in the shot you've shared, but it's hard to know for sure.

**BigMackCam** · 10-14-2021, 11:04 AM - **1 Like**

What aperture are you shooting at for the above shot, may I ask?

I've owned and shot with some pretty cheap and nasty lenses (including a number of 28mm models), but so long as the optical elements were in good condition and there was no haze, fungus etc., I've never had one that performed quite so badly as this. Wide open they may not be that useful (depending on personal tastes and expectations), but stopped down to f/5.6 - f/8 they're usually at least OK.

Assuming the glass is in good condition, it could be that you're having a problem with accurate focusing. With no live view on the K10D, it can be tricky to ensure perfect focus. The leaves at the very front of the above shot look like they're reasonably sharp, and I'm wondering if the actual focus point is even a little further in front? Try shooting a brick wall at an angle of, say, 45 degrees to see if the part you focused on, or any region in front or behind, is sharp. Also, try shooting away from the sun to avoid veiling flare. Use a suitable hood or your hand to block out bright light sources...

**THoog** · 10-14-2021, 11:15 AM - **1 Like**

For old glass with no/poor coatings, I found using the deepest hood I could find that did not vignette would help with the haze.

As to sharpness, while cheap 28mms are common as sparrows, sharp ones can be hard to find (by today's standards of sharpness).

jslifoaw · 10-14-2021, 11:49 AM - **1 Like**

There may still be good choices out there that are inexpensive. The Pentax-M 28mm f3.5 is a good example. The K version is even better but borderline not inexpensive.

**Serkevan** · 10-14-2021, 12:42 PM - **1 Like**

Lenses from Tokina, Cosina, or similarly "good third parties" would be a good option in general. They should be quite inexpensive.

steephill · 10-15-2021, 10:11 AM - **1 Like**

Old photo magazine tests of various 28mm's here - Photographic equipment Photo Gallery by Steve Flynn at pbase.com

Pentax M28 f2.8 comes out best, Tokina next best.

**BigMackCam** · 10-15-2021, 10:17 AM - **1 Like**

Originally posted by steephill

Old photo magazine tests of various 28mm's here - Photographic equipment Photo Gallery by Steve Flynn at pbase.com

Pentax M28 f2.8 comes out best, Tokina next best.

I have a couple of the Tokina RMC 28mm f/2.8 lenses, each slightly different styling, and both are pretty decent. They crop up frequently for very little money...

**pres589** · 10-15-2021, 11:03 AM - **1 Like**

Originally posted by steephill

Old photo magazine tests of various 28mm's here - Photographic equipment Photo Gallery by Steve Flynn at pbase.com

Pentax M28 f2.8 comes out best, Tokina next best.

And that's the early M 28 f2.8, with the chrome nose, instead of the mk2 that lacks the chrome ring at the front. Mk2 is supposed to be the better performer of the pair.

**67comet** · 02-11-2022, 07:07 PM - **1 Like**

Originally posted by pres589

Stop down the lens to f8 and see what things look like. Also make sure the lens is actually stopping down properly. Ensure you've got proper focus as well; you may be slightly front-focused in the shot you've shared, but it's hard to know for sure.

I did step it down (took a while to get back out and smash that clicker button). Worked MUCH better, I'm still bummed I can't use it wide open (cuz a LOT of my photography is at night).

Thank you all for your advice. I recently bought a 24-40 lens (that's friggin' awesome), and coming next week is a K-3 ii (5300 clicks). C'mon Spring, it's time to get back in the mountains and steal light rays!

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
Pentax K 28mm f/3.5 vs Pentax-M 28mm f/2.8 (later version) vs Pentax-M 28mm f/3.5	tonynon	Pentax SLR Lens Discussion	29	01-08-2023 07:19 AM
Coastar 28mm F2.8	joebob	Pentax SLR Lens Discussion	14	02-18-2022 12:02 PM
Quantaray 28mm f/2.8 vs Rokinon 28mm f/2.8 vs Quantaray 28mm f/2.8 (with A mode)	Gorgarath	Pentax SLR Lens Discussion	12	12-28-2019 08:15 PM
May 1st, 2012 A Day Without the 99% No Work – No School – No Housework – No Shopping	jogiba	General Talk	4	05-02-2012 02:48 AM

10-14-2021, 10:46 AM - 1 Like	#2
ProfessorBuzz Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Feb 2018 Posts: 1,903	Try a circular polarizer.

10-14-2021, 10:50 AM - 1 Like	#3
pres589 Site Supporter Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Wichita, KS Photos: Albums Posts: 4,533	Stop down the lens to f8 and see what things look like. Also make sure the lens is actually stopping down properly. Ensure you've got proper focus as well; you may be slightly front-focused in the shot you've shared, but it's hard to know for sure.

10-14-2021, 11:04 AM - 1 Like	#4
BigMackCam Digitiser of Film Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: North East of England Posts: 20,704	What aperture are you shooting at for the above shot, may I ask? I've owned and shot with some pretty cheap and nasty lenses (including a number of 28mm models), but so long as the optical elements were in good condition and there was no haze, fungus etc., I've never had one that performed quite so badly as this. Wide open they may not be that useful (depending on personal tastes and expectations), but stopped down to f/5.6 - f/8 they're usually at least OK. Assuming the glass is in good condition, it could be that you're having a problem with accurate focusing. With no live view on the K10D, it can be tricky to ensure perfect focus. The leaves at the very front of the above shot look like they're reasonably sharp, and I'm wondering if the actual focus point is even a little further in front? Try shooting a brick wall at an angle of, say, 45 degrees to see if the part you focused on, or any region in front or behind, is sharp. Also, try shooting away from the sun to avoid veiling flare. Use a suitable hood or your hand to block out bright light sources...

10-14-2021, 11:15 AM - 1 Like	#5
THoog Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: North Carolina Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 3,685	For old glass with no/poor coatings, I found using the deepest hood I could find that did not vignette would help with the haze. As to sharpness, while cheap 28mms are common as sparrows, sharp ones can be hard to find (by today's standards of sharpness).

10-14-2021, 11:49 AM - 1 Like	#6
jslifoaw Pentaxian Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Toronto/Victoria Posts: 460	There may still be good choices out there that are inexpensive. The Pentax-M 28mm f3.5 is a good example. The K version is even better but borderline not inexpensive.

10-14-2021, 12:42 PM - 1 Like	#7
Serkevan Site Supporter Join Date: May 2019 Photos: Albums Posts: 5,976	Lenses from Tokina, Cosina, or similarly "good third parties" would be a good option in general. They should be quite inexpensive.

10-15-2021, 10:11 AM - 1 Like	#8
steephill Pentaxian Join Date: Nov 2018 Photos: Albums Posts: 591	Old photo magazine tests of various 28mm's here - Photographic equipment Photo Gallery by Steve Flynn at pbase.com Pentax M28 f2.8 comes out best, Tokina next best.

10-15-2021, 10:17 AM - 1 Like	#9
BigMackCam Digitiser of Film Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: North East of England Posts: 20,704	Originally posted by steephill Old photo magazine tests of various 28mm's here - Photographic equipment Photo Gallery by Steve Flynn at pbase.com Pentax M28 f2.8 comes out best, Tokina next best. I have a couple of the Tokina RMC 28mm f/2.8 lenses, each slightly different styling, and both are pretty decent. They crop up frequently for very little money...

10-15-2021, 11:03 AM - 1 Like	#10
pres589 Site Supporter Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Wichita, KS Photos: Albums Posts: 4,533	Originally posted by steephill Old photo magazine tests of various 28mm's here - Photographic equipment Photo Gallery by Steve Flynn at pbase.com Pentax M28 f2.8 comes out best, Tokina next best. And that's the early M 28 f2.8, with the chrome nose, instead of the mk2 that lacks the chrome ring at the front. Mk2 is supposed to be the better performer of the pair.

02-11-2022, 07:07 PM - 1 Like	#11
67comet Site Supporter Join Date: Jun 2021 Location: Ogden, UT Photos: Albums Posts: 54 Original Poster	Originally posted by pres589 Stop down the lens to f8 and see what things look like. Also make sure the lens is actually stopping down properly. Ensure you've got proper focus as well; you may be slightly front-focused in the shot you've shared, but it's hard to know for sure. I did step it down (took a while to get back out and smash that clicker button). Worked MUCH better, I'm still bummed I can't use it wide open (cuz a LOT of my photography is at night). Thank you all for your advice. I recently bought a 24-40 lens (that's friggin' awesome), and coming next week is a K-3 ii (5300 clicks). C'mon Spring, it's time to get back in the mountains and steal light rays!

Coastar 28mm f/2.8 No. 440222

Win a Pentax Limited Lens: Raffle Now Live!