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09-21-2011, 06:56 AM   #1
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Pentax K200D vs K-r

Hi, I have the K200D and am quite pleased with it, the problem is that the top LCD is not backlit and lately have been doing alot of outdoors (fireworks, full moon, long exposures etc). With my eyesight I have difficulty reading the information in the viewfinder. I am looking to replace the K200D and have been looking at the K-r. Do you have any other suggestions or do you think that this is a good replacement for me. Thanks for your help.

09-21-2011, 07:16 AM   #2
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Did you consider the k-x?
09-21-2011, 07:31 AM   #3
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Thanks for your quick response, I actually did consider that, the draw back was that the AF points were not in the viewfinder. I've been reading on this forum (which I am so happy that I found as it is providing so much more information that I would not have access to!!!) that the K-r has front focus issues, not really sure what that means. As I said I'm happy with the K200D but without the live view to set my settings, and no backlit on the top, it is very frustrating for me, the flash light is not the answer , another issue that I'm concerned about is that the k-r is not weather resistant. Ohhhhhhhhhhh, there is just so much to consider!!!
09-21-2011, 07:33 AM   #4
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I have a K-r and I'm very happy with it, but do you need a camera that is WR? If so maybe it's a good time to consider a K-5. Price is low now, take a look: https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/pentax-price-watch/115274-pentax-k5-price-tracking-7.html

09-21-2011, 01:32 PM   #5
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I think the K20D & K7 both also have a lit LCD, if youīre looking to spend less than would be required for a K5. Theyīre also weather-sealed.
09-27-2011, 06:00 AM   #6
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Did they fixed the front focus of Kr?
09-27-2011, 06:08 AM   #7
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K20, K-7 or K-5 would be your best bet.
All 3 have the weather sealing you want and the K-7 and K-5 both have back-lit top LCD's
09-27-2011, 09:30 AM   #8
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Can you please telll me what the front focus issue is???? Also, if anyone knows, as I said I am currently using the K200D, last night was trying to do star trails, (actually wasn't too bad for first try , but I had to wait so long for the camera to "develop" the picture. I couldn't start one without it finishing and it probably took as long as the exposure of the picture was, up to 10 minutes, again pretty frustrting when you're looking to take another photo, thanks all for your advice

09-27-2011, 12:52 PM   #9
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QuoteOriginally posted by Lea_NS Quote
Can you please telll me what the front focus issue is???? Also, if anyone knows, as I said I am currently using the K200D, last night was trying to do star trails, (actually wasn't too bad for first try , but I had to wait so long for the camera to "develop" the picture. I couldn't start one without it finishing and it probably took as long as the exposure of the picture was, up to 10 minutes, again pretty frustrting when you're looking to take another photo, thanks all for your advice
That was the dark frame reduction, and you canīt turn it off. It activates the sensor with the shutter closed in order to "map" the noice pattern of the sensor at that moment (temperature etc) and substract that from the resultant image. Itīs a part of the noice reduction & will take as long as the exposure took.
09-27-2011, 02:41 PM   #10
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QuoteOriginally posted by Jonathan Mac Quote
That was the dark frame reduction, and you canīt turn it off. It activates the sensor with the shutter closed in order to "map" the noice pattern of the sensor at that moment (temperature etc) and substract that from the resultant image. Itīs a part of the noice reduction & will take as long as the exposure took.
Actually, K200D is one of the last cameras which allows the DFS (dark frame subtraction) to be turned COMPLETELY off (unlike k20d or k7). One of the reasons why i haven't upgraded yet.

But when doing a series of long exposures with DFS off i advise to do at least one dark frame on your own, to use later in post processing.
09-27-2011, 10:08 PM   #11
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QuoteOriginally posted by ytterbium Quote
Actually, K200D is one of the last cameras which allows the DFS (dark frame subtraction) to be turned COMPLETELY off (unlike k20d or k7). One of the reasons why i haven't upgraded yet.

But when doing a series of long exposures with DFS off i advise to do at least one dark frame on your own, to use later in post processing.
K-5 allows DFS too be turned completely off too, very handy feature IMO.
09-28-2011, 09:05 AM   #12
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Thanks, if I understand correctly, I can turn this function off and the photos will process quicker??? Can you please explain to me what you mean by your advice to do at least one dark frame on my own for later use??? Can you tell that I'm a real novice at this.love it though
09-28-2011, 12:09 PM   #13
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Yes.
Custom menu option 10 (Slow shutter speed NR) must be set to 2 (off).

About the dark frame. When you disable the SSSNR, you'll see that with long exposures you will get hot pixels. To remove them (by subtraction in post processing) you need a black reference frame. This can be done only once in one session and because the hot pixel pattern doesn't change that fast.

E.g. if you do 12 exposures, each 30 seconds long for a total 360 second star trail, after that you make one more frame. This 13. frame should have the same settings (exposure time, ISO), just with lens and viewfinder caps on and minimum aperture. This frame should be completely black but contain the same hot pixels as other 12 frames. Then you can remove those pixels from all of those frames using this dark frame.

This has been widely discussed on the Internet so should be easy to find various illustrations and detailed descriptions.
09-28-2011, 01:46 PM   #14
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thanks, this site is awesome!!! Sure wish I knew about it sooner, but am learning lots from it now. appreciate your help
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