[Cthulhugan]

He specifically used the term "native ISO". The KX can go lower to 100, but that could result in image deterioration as its native ISO low setting is 200. In practice I doubt you could tell the difference.

IIRC, to make ISO 100 available on the K-x, you need to turn on "expanded ISO" in the settings menu. That added one or two stops more ISO on the high end, and one on the low end. I got good results from my K-x at 100, but 200 was also good. I just left it enabled, and used 100 whenever that got me the exposure I wanted.

[robgski]

Handheld ; Daylight, in open areas, ISO 100. In daylight but under forest canopy or other areas with lots of light and dark mix, or cloudy skies ISO 400. Sunrise Sunset, Twilight, not shooting towards sunset, ISO 800 or 1600.
With tripod, stick to the lower ISO and extend exposure time.

Also, if using AV or TAv, the camera will always try to make everything balanced, which usually results in very bright lights and backlit silhouettes. I use AV to get a rough Idea of setting, then go to manual and adjust for the effect I want.

[normhead]

ON a K-x, I'd say between 100 and 400

At 400 the K-x can get a little wonky...


But it also takes some great pictures.




My dog Kenzie at 1600 ISO catching jumping dogs requires a high shutter speed. SO you can do it, but it's an emergency measure.


800 ISO gives you more of a chance.
'

Most of our images are taken at 100 or 200 ISO. But we've clearly gone as high as 1600 in a pinch. If it's a choice between getting nothing or shooting 1600 ISO do it, it might work out. The image of Kenzie is one our favourites.

[MrB1]

Also, if using AV or TAv, the camera will always try to make everything balanced, which usually results in very bright lights and backlit silhouettes. I use AV to get a rough Idea of setting, then go to manual and adjust for the effect I want.

Just curious - why change modes? Why not use exposure compensation?

For ease of use in Av (and Tv) modes, my DSLR is set up to change the Av (or Tv) with the rear dial and exposure compensation with the front dial.

Cheers.
Philip

[robgski]

Just curious - why change modes? Why not use exposure compensation?

Habits from my K1000 days , but I do like the idea of controlling the exposure compensation from the dial, I'll try that. Thanks!

[Sliver-Surfer]

Handheld ; Daylight, in open areas, ISO 100. In daylight but under forest canopy or other areas with lots of light and dark mix, or cloudy skies ISO 400. Sunrise Sunset, Twilight, not shooting towards sunset, ISO 800 or 1600.
With tripod, stick to the lower ISO and extend exposure time.

Also, if using AV or TAv, the camera will always try to make everything balanced, which usually results in very bright lights and backlit silhouettes. I use AV to get a rough Idea of setting, then go to manual and adjust for the effect I want.

I second this approach the kx is good up to iso 800-1600 The best thing you can do is use to get great rich images is to use the best glass you can afford, sharpening an image in post is a sure fire way to make your iso noise go squirrely.

[TER-OR]

TAv is a great tool.

Here's how I'd approach it. Find out what apertures are best at various focal lengths for that lens. Usually it's stopped-down a bit, around f8ish. Try to stay close to that aperture and then adjust your shutter speed to either achieve a result you want or keep the ISO in decent range. It's a little backwards of how film photography worked, but only because you can choose your ISO.

Err on underexposed, it's easier to lift shadows than mute overexposed areas. Also, the shot is what matters most so don't make any hard rules.

[Sliver-Surfer]

TAv is a great tool.

Here's how I'd approach it. Find out what apertures are best at various focal lengths for that lens. Usually it's stopped-down a bit, around f8ish. Try to stay close to that aperture and then adjust your shutter speed to either achieve a result you want or keep the ISO in decent range. It's a little backwards of how film photography worked, but only because you can choose your ISO.

Err on underexposed, it's easier to lift shadows than mute overexposed areas. Also, the shot is what matters most so don't make any hard rules.

KX does not have TAv Mode

[TER-OR]

I keep forgetting the mid-range back then had just one wheel. That makes it a bit less convenient.

[kwburkman]

Sorry but that is incorrect. My K-x will go as low as ISO100.

On mine I find any over ISO800 introduces too much noise.

Interesting! My K-x only goes to 200.

[normhead]

As already suggested... the lowest you get away with, while still achieving the result you want or need.

And true for everything not just landscape. Even with shutter speed, once you get a few images you like with your ISO up for a faster shutter speed, I put the ISO down to where I have no business getting a decent image, and try that, because if you luck out it's going to be a better image.

So, I'd strongly advise a method I'd call "ISO cheating"

Here's an image I took while "ISO cheating" I already had a few images taken at higher ISOs and shutter speeds, so I dropped my ISO to 100, that gave me a 1/20s exposure time. Have no right to expect that moose isn't going to move causing motion blur. I have no guarantee the SR is going to work and save me from camera shake. If it was a one off shot, I'd be shooting at 400 ISO to make sure I got the shot.

But, I'm going for the most possible useful light hitting my sensor, which leads to lower noise, (and therefore more sharpness) more dynamic range, etc. I have no right to expect this image to work, but, it did.



I end up with the absolute maximum IQ the camera is capable of producing. It's just what you do to make the most of your gear.

Before I did this I did a quite a few conventional 400ISO image at 1/160s like this one... I'm not willing to waste an opportunity to get a theoretically better image, and in this case, I wanted to freeze the water dripping from his mouth, so I had to have the higher ISO. But, given time and opportunity a couple of 100 ISO tries as sort of a hail Mary never hurts and sometimes you luck out.



It makes me happy, but whether or not it makes a difference to the image is debatable, but, theoretically it could. I'm not sure I could even tell the difference between the 100 and 400 ISO in this case.

The only point that matters in ISO is the point at which you can see the image starting to degrade. Usually with a K-3, for me that point is after 640 ISO, or 800 ISO with a K-5. With a K-1 it's after 3200 ISO. And that is determined completely by how many times I have exceeded the limit where I have to introduce noise reduction software at that ISO. Sometimes you get noise at 400 ISO sometimes you don't at 3200. it's an estimated rule that isn't absolute, but plays the odds based on how I shoot. I've also had noiseless 1600 ISO ISO images and noisey 400 ISO K-1 images, so these are guidelines. not hard fast rules, leaving the door open for experimentation. If I'm shooting hummingbirds and I'm not getting what i want at 800 ISO, I may bump it up to 1600 ISO, and use Noise Reduction. For each image there are multiple metrics which make it very difficult to predict which image you want. But on the whole there is simply no way around it. Noise reduction software reduces resolution. I prefer not to use it unless absolutely necessary. I definitely recommend reducing noise by controlling ISO as opposed to software solutions.

[Kerrowdown]

And true for everything not just landscape

As Captain Jack would say... "We have an accord!"

[KDD]

I think your lens is not fast enough.

[sanusense]

Changing the ISO setting on your camera changes the sensitivity to light of the image sensor inside of it. I usually pick something between 200-400 not more than that, however if it's cloudy then you can increase ISO a bit more according to image.

[Kombivan]

I'd use the lowest setting however if a lot of dark shadows are cast I would go up to 400 on the iso and let the camera select the shutter and aperture if it appears a bit bright or washed out, I would stop it down with the +/- control until the exposure is correct. but safe is low iso in bright. and remember the southern hemisphere is 0.5+ ev and northern hemisphere is 0.0 ev.

The aperture being daylight should close a bit giving a depth of field other wise select the aperture yourself and also use the ISO 400 and a small aperture and as above use the +/- to get correct exposure, so many tools on these cameras today.