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01-19-2013, 08:29 PM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by akptc Quote
I've confirmed that the Cowboy Studio plate is exactly the same as the Aluminium Quick Release Plate. On those two plates, the distance between the slotted hole and the threaded hole is about 15mm on center - no good. The generic plate on ebay has a better spacing between the two holes - 13mm, so still no good. It appears that the only plate discussed so far with the correct distance between the two holes (about 11.5mm, estimated) is the Camdapter Arca XT Adapter. It's also the most expensive plate mentioned here, at $43+. The distance between those holes affects the position of the right edge of the VF3 frame relative to the right edge of the LCD, i.e. you either have access to the green button and to the exposure comp. button (11.5mm hole to hole distance) or not (larger distance).
Just my 2 cents..
Sorry to hear these plates aren't working for you, but thank you for sharing your findings.

For some reason I feel I am missing something here somehow. After removing the second thumbscrew from the bottom of the viewfinder (left/right adjustment) it seems there should be plenty of adjustment to accommodate these other plates. Notice in that photo (3rd one from the top) that the remaining one thumbscrew is almost centered in the bracket. It would seem to me there would be plenty of adjustment to the left or right depending on how you are installing the first plate on the camera. Is it possible for you to post a couple pics on how you are setting yours up? Perhaps we might be able to figure this out together.

Here is that photo again:


Last edited by photolady95; 04-17-2016 at 02:30 AM.
01-19-2013, 09:36 PM   #17
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Stan, thank you looking into it. Here are some (quick and v. noisy) pics of my set up:



Additional images
01-19-2013, 09:51 PM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by akptc Quote
Stan, thank you looking into it. Here are some (quick and v. noisy) pics of my set up:
Additional images
OK - thanks for posting the images.

Now, in your first photo (top left) you have lots of room to move the finder to the left. Just loosen that thumbscrew - the one I have the arrow pointing to in my post above yours - and simply slide the entire unit to the left until you get it to where you want it - then re-tighten the thumbscrew.
01-19-2013, 10:10 PM   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by stormtech Quote
OK - thanks for posting the images.

Now, in your first photo (top left) you have lots of room to move the finder to the left. Just loosen that thumbscrew - the one I have the arrow pointing to in my post above yours - and simply slide the entire unit to the left until you get it to where you want it - then re-tighten the thumbscrew.
Oh how I wish that were true.. it is pushed as far to the left as it it will go.. not a millimeter left. I can send you the plate if you'd like to try it out, I ended up with 2 of them

01-19-2013, 10:41 PM   #20
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QuoteOriginally posted by akptc Quote
Oh how I wish that were true.. it is pushed as far to the left as it it will go.. not a millimeter left. I can send you the plate if you'd like to try it out, I ended up with 2 of them
I think we are having a little bit of miscommunication here......

Here is your photo that I added 2 arrows to:



You say that you have not a millimeter left to adjust. Look at where my arrows are pointing - you have inches and inches of adjustment to go either way. Just loosen that thumbscrew that is between the 2 arrows and slide it. We are not adjusting the plate - we are adjusting the viewfinder itself.

Last edited by photolady95; 04-17-2016 at 02:31 AM.
01-19-2013, 11:12 PM   #21
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Would you say it is worth the cash to get this one over something like the GGS Perfect Foldable LCD Viewfinder which is about half as much? It seems like a good investment but I am not sure if I should spend a little more on the one you posted.
01-19-2013, 11:29 PM   #22
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QuoteOriginally posted by stormtech Quote
I think we are having a little bit of miscommunication here......
Here is your photo that I added 2 arrows to:
You say that you have not a millimeter left to adjust. Look at where my arrows are pointing - you have inches and inches of adjustment to go either way. Just loosen that thumbscrew that is between the 2 arrows and slide it. We are not adjusting the plate - we are adjusting the viewfinder itself.
Well, now I am really confused.. Maybe we have similar but slightly different viewfinders? Let me try to show what I mean:

In the pic below, A = left, B = right. The blue line outlines the L-shaped piece of metal that connects the VF to the plate attached to the camera body. A = left is the side where the green button control is. Let's assume the camera body is bolted solid to the table. As you can see, my L-shaped piece abuts the A edge of the VF frame and thus I cannot move the VF frame A-B to the right (towards B). Not unless I use a hammer .



The next pic shows this in more detail..



I can of course push the VF frame A-B towards A (left) as shown on the next pic but that gets me in the opposite dir of what I need, now my green button is completely covered.



What am I missing? I would really love to this to work.
01-20-2013, 07:29 AM   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by MarinatedHerring Quote
Would you say it is worth the cash to get this one over something like the GGS Perfect Foldable LCD Viewfinder which is about half as much? It seems like a good investment but I am not sure if I should spend a little more on the one you posted.
I took a look at the GGS viewfinder - the only real difference I see between it and the Carryspeed/Swivi is that the GGS uses adhesive to attach the mounting frame to the camera screen, where the Carryspeed is attached via the tripod mount on the bottom of the camera. For myself, I like the idea of the tripod socket mount as it is easy to remove and use on different cameras if I want - it is not a permanent attachment like the GGS.

01-20-2013, 07:38 AM   #24
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QuoteOriginally posted by akptc Quote
Well, now I am really confused.. Maybe we have similar but slightly different viewfinders? Let me try to show what I mean:

In the pic below, A = left, B = right. The blue line outlines the L-shaped piece of metal that connects the VF to the plate attached to the camera body. A = left is the side where the green button control is. Let's assume the camera body is bolted solid to the table. As you can see, my L-shaped piece abuts the A edge of the VF frame and thus I cannot move the VF frame A-B to the right (toward B). Not unless I use a hammer .
OK - I see what you are talking about now. My apologies for being short sighted and stubborn for not seeing what you have been talking about. Your pic with the blue outline of the "L" bracket did the trick for me - once I took a close look at my viewfinder off the camera I clearly see that bracket now and that it is extended in one direction.

I guess that small different of the location of the 1/4" threaded socket on the first mounting plate does make the difference. I feel pretty lucky in that I happened to have that Camdapter plate in my bin of goodies that worked right from the first installation. With my setup, I looked at where the end of the "L" bracket is, and I actually have another 1/4" of adjustment farther to the left if I would need it.

I am going to think on this some more, but my first thought if it were me would be to take a hack saw, cut 1/4-1/2" off the end of that "L" bracket, then use a file to smooth out the end after cutting. I am going to ponder this some more this morning and see if I can come up with any other ideas.
01-20-2013, 09:03 AM   #25
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QuoteOriginally posted by stormtech Quote
... take a hack saw, cut 1/4-1/2" off the end of that "L" bracket, then use a file to smooth out the end after cutting...
This sounds like a great idea. It looks like I could cut off the 3.5mm I need and still be able to use the 2nd screw if need be (e.g. on another body). Now, a kingdom for a hacksaw!
01-20-2013, 02:52 PM   #26
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I don't have this setup, but is it possible to flip the L shaped bracket over so the leg of the "L" is pointed in the direction of point "B" ? This could possibly give you the clearance you need without having to cut anything.

Scott
01-20-2013, 03:10 PM   #27
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QuoteOriginally posted by snostorm Quote
I don't have this setup, but is it possible to flip the L shaped bracket over so the leg of the "L" is pointed in the direction of point "B" ? This could possibly give you the clearance you need without having to cut anything.

Scott
Unfortunately, no because both arms of the L piece are keyed to the parts they connect to.
01-23-2013, 05:40 PM   #28
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QuoteOriginally posted by akptc Quote
This sounds like a great idea. It looks like I could cut off the 3.5mm I need and still be able to use the 2nd screw if need be (e.g. on another body). Now, a kingdom for a hacksaw!
Curious to know if you found a solution you are happy with.
01-23-2013, 05:48 PM   #29
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QuoteOriginally posted by stormtech Quote
Curious to know if you found a solution you are happy with.
Decided to cut off a piece of the L.. have not had the time to do it
01-23-2013, 05:57 PM   #30
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QuoteOriginally posted by akptc Quote
Decided to cut off a piece of the L.. have not had the time to do it
I think I might do the same thing so I can free up the nice plate I am using that goes with the Camdapter Prostrap.

Edit to add: Just found another plate that would probably work the best of them all being the threaded socket is centered with the mount screw:

http://www.hejnarphotostore.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=24_31&products_id=102

Last edited by stormtech; 01-23-2013 at 06:03 PM.
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